So.. The old 2sw page went down, and gone was Also my 3 year old build thread.. :harley:
But here we Are now, and Iam Thankfull for everyone making the New 2 stroke world happen! :patriot:
My status quo on the build is :
Currently having problems with front and rear wheel, getting Hard to spin when the nuts Are tightened, so i Will try to address this tomorrow.
Engine :
My refurb crank is not going clean in the casing because the Guy Who refurb the crank, used longer pins in the middel bearings, which makes it Hard to assemble the 2 casings.
Solution: either I grind a bit of the pins or i make more room in the pin holes in the casings.? Not sure what Iam gonna do yet.
Stay tuned for more pictures and updates guys :metal:
Early update. :clap:
Turned out my problem with the wheels was the caliper hitting the disc, so a shim om every mounting bolt moving the caliper ever so slitely Got the job done. They Both turn smootly, No problems, with the calipers in place.
Happy days
:toot:
So, finally i Got to it and heres an update :)
Status quo :
Currently working on the engine and getting my crank to sit propberly ( problem is being addressed in Another thread) :)
Took apart the gear selector and cleaned everything up and refit with New bolt and lock tite.
I am addressing the gear box Next, maybe taking it apart and cleaning it or cleaning it as it sits with cleaning petrol.
Had the trac dynamics alu swingarm powder as the frame and fitted it with bronze bushings.
The frame is up on wheels and it feels good ( remember i have never tried and rd and never sit on a finished bike, i bought a frame and have been building it up gratually, so Its a big deal for me😁)
Cant wait to ride it
I am working on having my front brake line (HEL), without the adapter and have it made with only a banjo connection.
I Will Also be fitting a yamaha raptor 660 Fuel petcock to my Fuel tank in the near future ( quality instead of those crap chinese replica original ones :)
Also recieved some yz85 v force reeds Ported to match
So i Will be grinding to make them fit the cylinders.
A Boost bootle and a 90 degree Fuel tap to my raptor 660 conversion. (thanks chuck :patriot:)
The picture with the engine in is only for show and test look 😁
:clap:
:toot:
Hans,
No big deal just divit out the cases to fit the longer pins, not critical, just be sure they go all the way in away from the top case parting surface.
EASY! :wave:
Chuck
Chuck
Do you have pictures of the proces of making room for the work done to the engine cases?
I think he means for you to deepen/lengthen the existing retaining slots so that the bigger roll pins will fit. 5 minutes with a dremmel tool and carbide bit.
So..its 1.30 at night here and Iam going to bed.
I have been making room for the middle pids on the crank, in the cases, cleaned everything up and Got it to sit and just 15 min ago i Got the to engine cases together. Hopefully i remembered everything and did it right and Got it Nice and tight.
Tomorrow i Will be addressing the cylinders, They need work done to accomodate the v force reeds.
Is there Any trick to it? Or is it grind and check and grind until it fits?
:patriot:
what sealant are you using
I believe Its, Wurth, brand.crank case sealent :umm:
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on March 04, 2019, 01:27:47 PM
I believe Its, Wurth, brand.crank case sealent :umm:
good to know! I have always used THREEBOND
Okay :). Yes well its my first engine assembly but the Wurth should do the job. I certaibly Hope so 😁
Small update
I bought a set of steel braided hel brake lines for the rd a Long time ago, but the front line had the adapter for the original setup.
But I wanted the more clean simple connection with a banjo bolt, so i Got in contact with a fut who Does brake line work and he made it work, now Its ready to go on the bike :toot:
So..
Got the petcock fitted with a extra outlet, Hopefully Its sealed and working 😁
Also, ordered som. Parts for the clutch Iam missing)( believe Its for a xs but should work on the rd)
Stay tuned
I remembered chuck mentioned that i had to remove the middle piece on the piston - Could you maybe explain why?
I remember it was something to do that the piston was for a rd350lc?
Iam currently Looking for a milling head to remove the alu to make room for my v force reeds, Hopefully i Will get it done soon. Then i can get the cylinders bored and honed and mounted on the engine :toot:
Stay tuned
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on March 12, 2019, 05:04:35 PM
I remembered chuck mentioned that i had to remove the middle piece on the piston - Could you maybe explain why?
I remember it was something to do that the piston was for a rd350lc?
Iam currently Looking for a milling head to remove the alu to make room for my v force reeds, Hopefully i Will get it done soon. Then i can get the cylinders bored and honed and mounted on the engine :toot:
Stay tuned
i did the same on mine (removal of the tang on the piston) or you run the risk of this breaking off against the ports and causing mayor damage.
+ 2 mm of the side skirts (using rz350 yamaha pistons on rd400f). this is because if you fit this pistons normaly.... it would hit the counterweights on the crankshaft.
(https://i.imgur.com/k9ZmlDg.jpg)
^As I read on the forum, the tang In the middle was removed and almost 2mm from the bottom also.
Here you can compare both pistons side by side with the pin inserted. Everything below the red lines was removed.otherwise the piston skirts
the tang was removed but i dont think I heard chuck say anything about the 2mm of the bottom of the piston? at least not on the 66mm wossner pistons i have.
Chuck can you confirm?
:patriot:
The extra 2mm he was saying applies to stock Yamaha RZ/Banshee pistons and Vortex pistons.
Not needed on Pro-X pistons, Wiseco pistons and Wossner pistons.
All they need is just the tang removed.
Chuck
Roger that ☺️
So, my uncle helped me out again, accessing a mill at work, he made room for my yz85 vforce reeds.
As soon as Possible i Will take my cylinders and pistons, to be bored and honed! :metal:
Try to blend out the step where your uncle finished machining using either a die grinder/dremel or riffler files.
I fitted the YZ85 reeds into a TY250 after reading about which block to buy on the old forum - RDs & TYs have the same reed block going off part numbers.
I was able to use my dremel with ballnose endmill to remove metal quickly which takes a steady hand, I had marked how far into the cylinder the reed needed to sit before I started & knew how much needed to come out at the deepest point & kept trying the reed block in the hole until it fitted nicely. After that I just tapered the port wall out until it met the liner & knocked the lumps off the casting but didn't touch anything with sandpaper
Takes a bit of time but is better than wrecking a cylinder by breaking out the side of the port
This is how the sidewall looked when I'd finished(https://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy166/tony27_photo/Yamaha%20TY250C/20171019_210530_zpshngnydkg.jpg) (https://s788.photobucket.com/user/tony27_photo/media/Yamaha%20TY250C/20171019_210530_zpshngnydkg.jpg.html)
Tony27
I was thinking the same actually but is it nesessary to grind out the step?
Because i just delivered the cylinders of to be bored and honed so i would rather not do more work to Them :umm:
To get the best effect of the reed upgrade you really need to remove the step. Do it before you give the cylinders the wash to get rid of any grit left after honing, I had already had my cylinder bored & honed before modifying the port
I'm with Tony... no harm in working on grinding ports in the intake track to smooth it out to the inlet port.
Just stay away from @ the cylinder bore.
Chuck
Allright
I Will tape the hole up i to the cylinder bore and try to smooth it out, clean it in cleaning benzin and fingers crossed its All good 👌
So, finally some progress
After receiving the cylinders from bore and hone, i dremeled out the 'bridge' in the in the cylinder ( Reed goes in), cleaned it good, oiled up and Got the top end together. Sprayed it with heat resistent clear coat afterwards to protect the bare alu.
As It sits now
Next i Will try to make a seat pan( No expetience what so ever) in some 1,2mm sheet metal. Hopefully i can make it work 🤔😁
Sorry for the lack of updates, but life gets in the way.
But, I have stainless news for you, allthough i havent fit Them on the bike yet,
A set of laser Cut and welded, glas bead chain tensioners.
I think They turned out pretty, now They need to fit and Its perfect :haw:
So just a small update, letting the internet know that the build is very much alive
Cut the brackets this weekend under the frame, so the pipes cleared the frame.
Got the hvc cycle sidestand extender on, but Must admit i Hoped and thought it would be a plug and play, it definately not is.
If Iam Lucky i can find some sort of rubber to go on the spring so it wont hit the pipes (as hard) or i Will have to take drastic measures.
Also Got my one off stainless steel chain tensioners on, They turned out good :)
And oh.. Allthough i Cant afford it, (the restoring and custom work etc) i had to buy a New project for the future.
It was a frame with papers, a somewhat complete engine and some other bits and pieces. ( Its not a rebuild, making my own take on it)
Suzuki gt750, ska the kettle aka the water buffalo 😅👌
I just had to do it.
Stay tuned
Waterbuffalo
GT750 are fun bikes. They are just a little bit heavy and underpowered stock but that can be changed without spending a fortune.
Yet another small update
Chuck aka supertune sent me a Quick Throttle and cables for the Tm34 carbs
Works very Nice
Got the New gribs on as well and everything is tight and Looking good.
A little custom bling for the build
8)
Cool to see a little more progress!
I like that adjuster cover... :celebrate:
Chuck
Thanks chuck :patriot:
Allright, Another small but good update
1 issue solved, i took the clucht out and the kickstart mechanism, Saw the First shim that goes on the shaft was to big ( having issues with it not popping back up when i kick it)
I found the correct shim, put it All together and it works as intended. :toot:
Another one that had been irretating me, was the fact that my clip ons hit the gas tank on Both sides when turned, but a good idea from this forum, and now i Drilled a 4mm hole in each steering stop on the lower tree, put a 4mm bolt in with a narrow head? And it works perfect, without destroying the tuning radius. Looks fine to me.
So Thank you for the good simple idea 👌
Next i Will properly address the tdc
Any tips/ etc on how to do this would be appreciated. I do have a measuring clock? That goes in spark plug hole
Plus i am Also using Electronic ignition, but having never done Any of this before, Please do Come with advice :vroom:
Shop for a Central Tools Timing gauge #278 (old #) or Central Tools 6491A Motorcycle Timing Gauge (new #)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Central-Tools-6491A-Motorcycle-Timing-Gauge-1-1-2-2-3-16-Contacts-01mm/163783679608?epid=1628125008&hash=item2622449e78:g:fEQAAOSw301dMeOp
List what ignition you have.
Chuck
Hi chuck
I already have a timing gauge, measuring in mm
Hopefully it works..
The Electronic ignition i have is a power dynamo..
A small update.
Brembo brake fluid resovoir. Same in front as in back
Hi guys!
Long due, but iam pleased to say that the project is Very much alive!!
Not much have been done, until the last 3 weeks.
I FINALLY found a guy willing and skilled enough to take on my seat/rear cowling and Electronic box.
I had a specific idea to how i wanted it to flow with the cofffin tank, and by the pictures, it looks like he is doing a great job. I Will have the bike back next Friday the latest. Cant wait
Since last
- Had the engine cover on the ignition side, welded some cracks and powdercoated to match
- My bike is currently at the metal fab. Guy, Hes had it about 2 weeks.
-mounted the clutch actuator in the engine cover ( bought for a yamaha xs400) but I think it Will work.
When the bike returns, i need to address
- complete wiring of the bike ( advice /tips are welcome)
Iam connections with a moto gadget M unit, so Its a completely new harness
- The ignition timing needs to be set. This i never tried and Will rely om chucks guidance
Stay tuned people💪
Rezized image
Fabrication...
The rear light is a husqvarna svartpilen 401, LED. Flipped up side down 😁💪
The sheet metal work is made in 1,5 mm stainless steel
Hope you Guys like it, the project is closer then ever to completion😁💪
Profile rear
I like it, looks great. Your project is getting close!
Where are you, Greenhorn?
This is going to be sweet!
Thank you, and yes, closer then ever 😁
Iam in Denmark, as in the small country in Europe 😁
Allright guys!.. Finally some solid progress.
Picked the bike up last night and I love it. Hope you Guys do to :righteous:
So, tried the garret exhaust flanges on the bike, but unfortunately i Cant get Them to work.
I have Jim lomas race pipes and the springs are just No where near long enough, plus the mounting bracket ( vintage smoke) dont seem. To be enough with the flanges mounted.
So for now, i have the original Jim lomas crap flanges on
Anyone know where to get new o ring seals for Them? Skinny ones
I need a lot work done.
Set the iginiton ( iam having a Hard time figuring out how to use metering gauge in the spark plug hole cylinder)
Mount clutch cover with cable plus the push rod?
Install gear lever
Fabricate the wiring harness
Bleed the brakes
Test the tank for leaks
And a lot more i Cant remember
Stay tuned
That's some mad skills on the sheet metal fab work...I'm jealous! I wish that setup was for sale!
Chuck
Agree Chuck.
He is Very skilled and did a great job.
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on April 10, 2020, 10:08:29 AM
That's some mad skills on the sheet metal fab work...I'm jealous! I wish that setup was for sale!
Chuck
Maybe!! I can have a set made...
I can ask if Its possible..
That's looking awesome! :clap: :nana:
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on April 09, 2020, 08:09:13 AM
So, tried the garret exhaust flanges on the bike, but unfortunately i Cant get Them to work.
I have Jim lomas race pipes and the springs are just No where near long enough, plus the mounting bracket ( vintage smoke) dont seem. To be enough with the flanges mounted.
Did you cut a piece off the end of the pipe the same length as Garrets flange?
Not really sure what you are trying to say about the vintage smoke brackets though.
Stay tuned
No i have not cut My pipes?
Just Trying to say that it did not fit the vintage smoke bracket for the pipe when Trying to mount it on the flanges, but thats a given it wont fit :)
You would need to cut off the original JL mounting sleeves, and weld on Garret's to your pipes,
I assume the Vintage smoke Items mentioned, are the rearset/pipe hanger plates?
If the pipe hanger bolts don't line up after tacking on Garret's mounting sleeves, you may have to modify either the pipe brackets, the hanger plates or make up an additional adapter plate.
In any case, pretty easy stuff to fix.
Yes those i meant from. Vintage smoke.
Yes, oh well, for now the stock are on, i Will see what and when i get around to doing the flange work
Allright.
Update, status quo
I got the chain in place, so i think.
The one i had was to short so i bought a 125 link and made it work.
The clutch actuation is also working now
The gear lever, not so sure yet, i find it difficult to shift but hopefully Its all good
BUT.
Because this bike has been sitting for so long now, both My fork legs bleed oil out of the fork seal.
So, it sucks, but they Will need work done now as well.
Stay tuned
Are you turning countershaft while shifting?
Modify the linkage on the shift arm.
Most rearsets you can buy suck and need modifying.
I'll see if I have some pics somewhere...
Chuck
I guess I need to do a tip of the day on this...
Hope this helps.
Gill, looks like you extended the linkage on the Shit arm??
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on April 13, 2020, 11:27:56 AM
Modify the linkage on the shift arm.
Most rearsets you can buy suck and need modifying.
I'll see if I have some pics somewhere...
Chuck
I guess I need to do a tip of the day on this...
Might be that i have to do that yes. Not sure yet though
Would be awsome if you did Chuck 💪
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on April 13, 2020, 02:11:09 PM
Might be that i have to do that yes. Not sure yet though
The stock RD gear lever/pedal is quite long, maybe 50% longer that the average rearset pedal. So to retain the stock shifting "feel", the arm on the gear shaft needs to be 50% longer than the arm on the pedal.
Also, It is beneficial that both these arms are quite long, to reduce forces and friction in the whole system. Most rearsets are really bad in this respect, with very short linkage arms. Even the original linkage/pedal for the 350LC is poorly designed.
So here is a pic of Nicks RD400 build with a set of fast from the past rearsets...pretty much all the same as the others like vintage smoke, Moto Carrera's
I did already drill a hole in the rear foot lever arm and move the linkage closer to the foot peg to help but just wasn't quite enough.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/nicks76rd400/large/20190806_160159.jpg)
So I took off the front shift shaft arm off and welded a billet longer arm and added 2 more holes above the stock pre-drilled 2 holes to add even more leverage.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/nicks76rd400/large/20190813_221720.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/nicks76rd400/large/20190813_192529.jpg)
I did have it in the top hole when I ran it on the dyno here...
But think Nick liked it in the second hole better for his riding boots like above.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/nicks76rd400/large/20190823_172959_1.jpg)
Little blurry from cropping the pic.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/nicks76rd400/large/20190823_172959crop2.jpg)
Chuck
Wow.. Okay, as I suspected. Sucks it needs that amount of work at that price tag..
Chuck, the billet arm that shifts the gears, is that straight from the foot peeg to the shifter?
I Mean, if you look from birds view, is the arm straight or?
Mine as is now goes inwards towarsd the gear shaft, thinking this also effects the shifting?
I Hope My crappy english comes ascross😅
If I understand you...
I always want the tie rod arms parallel to each other and the tie rod as close to 90* degree to the arm as possible.
Pic's of Pauls Rd400 build with Spec 2 rearset I modified.
You can see the new hole I drilled here closer to the pivot.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_152139.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_160502.jpg)
I didn't like the angle on the arm, as the arms were not parallel to each other when the toe peg was where it needed to be.
so I cut it off by make the cut line at an angle then flipping it over and rewelding back on to get them parallel to each other.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_183335_1.jpg)
I didn't take any close up final pics....but if you watch the Dyno vid you can see it works perfect and no issues of finding neutral even from someone that never rode or shifted the RD before hand.
https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=299&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=299&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
Chuck
What chuck did works great. Much better than before.
Anyone selling these extended arms so My vintage smoke gear shifter Will work as should? 🤔😊
Iam getting My feet wet on the electrical side of things
The harness is coming along fine i think, a lot of work and redoing, even on a simple bike as this
Decided to cut the plastic wrap on the harness from the ignition, was not doing anything really, and I needed a neutral wire.
So for a clean result I made a neutral wire and threaded it with the other wires from the ignition, eveything wrapped in heat shrink ( one big piece)
For a clean tight look.
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on April 18, 2020, 10:23:40 AM
Anyone selling these extended arms so My vintage smoke gear shifter Will work as should? 🤔😊
Iam getting My feet wet on the electrical side of things
The harness is coming along fine i think, a lot of work and redoing, even on a simple bike as this
Decided to cut the plastic wrap on the harness from the ignition, was not doing anything really, and I needed a neutral wire.
So for a clean result I made a neutral wire and threaded it with the other wires from the ignition, eveything wrapped in heat shrink ( one big piece)
For a clean tight look.
Do you have the rubber grommet on where the wires go through the case?
No i dont have it but might need to get that
thanks
So yet some work done on the rd..
Got a new headlight, same but in LED. Its BRIGHT👌
Also got some more work done with the wiring, so for now I should be done with all the light and horn.
Need to try to figure out how the rectifier, ignition, moto scope pro speedo and the moto gadget m locn work together. This is the final part of wiring.
And oh the neutral wire as well 😁
Today i also got the brakes bled.
I need to be finished with the wiring, and fire it up for the first time and hopefully everything is good.
Then i Will sendt the rear/ seat back to the fab guy, have a number plate holder made and boltet to the rear. He Will also make a seat plate with mounting points and drill holes to fit in the seat pan.
Then i can get a upolstry guy to make a seat to fit.
Still a long way to go, but step by step iam getting closer.. :whoop:
Just recieved My custom cover, now Black anodized :clap:
Allright, the update thats been years in the making..
Its alive!! :toot:
Improvised an old tank on there, got some fuel and oil in, she started up on 3rd kick yesterday and it was my 33 birthday.
Perfect timing 😁👍🇩🇰
I have never heard an rd before but wow Its loud and it sounds AWSOME!
I have only had it started 2 times at idle for maybe 10 minuts Max, a few blips or Else just idle, it goes pretty good in idle havent set anything on the carbs.
So how do I run it in? Mind you everything is 'new'?
I havent had it run throgh the gears yet, thinking i Will try today?
Can i post videos in here?
Yay...fired up is great news.
Are you running the oil pump? I have one on the GT200 and will run a ratio oil mix in the gas until I'm confident the oil pump is delivering oil correctly...it'll smoke like a sailor on shore leave but....Running in procedure would be heat cycles(so run then cool, then run etc), through the gears and use them so as not to labour the engine, better it's revving (but not crazy) freely than labouring in the wrong gear.
Brakes will need bedding in to, so go easy and enjoy 8)
I guess there is as many opinions on break in procedure as about oil or tires....In my opinion/experience, short bursts of accelleration/ load is good, and helps seal the rings. Being too cautious is definitely not a good thing. Neither is constant speed/rpm at low load (cruising) Vary between cruising, accelleration and engine braking. Mark in Sc recently posted a comment about break in, cannot remember in which thread.
Just don't hold it wide open more than a few seconds at a time in the beginning, and give it some time to cool off between each burst. And keep it below 5 or 6 k to begin with.
Yeah so i run premix, so No oilpump.
Engine breaking is not good when running premix? Starving then engine for oil..
But ive run it a few times just idle, few blips on the throttle, had a little run down the street in gear but it shifts not to good ( the vintage smoke shifter needs modning)
It SMOKES like crazy but I put in a solid amount of oil.
So, properly wont be running it more for now
Having the last fabrication done in the next weeks??
Then powder and then assemble and some more wiring work.
Stay tuned👌
Plenty of castrol in the first start in over 4 decades 😁👍
Quote from: Dvsrd on May 09, 2020, 10:12:11 AM
I guess there is as many opinions on break in procedure as about oil or tires....In my opinion/experience, short bursts of accelleration/ load is good, and helps seal the rings. Being too cautious is definitely not a good thing. Neither is constant speed/rpm at low load (cruising) Vary between cruising, accelleration and engine braking. Mark in Sc recently posted a comment about break in, cannot remember in which thread.
Just don't hold it wide open more than a few seconds at a time in the beginning, and give it some time to cool off between each burst. And keep it below 5 or 6 k to begin with.
To add to the above comment...
Dr. Quenzler recently posted his tips on engine break-in. He does this for a living and has been at it for a long time so he's the one to listen to!
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=646.msg4624#msg4624
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1622.msg13402#msg13402
Just a small update
Having a number plate holder fabricated, also in stainless.
I think i will have it in 2 weeks and then Its of to powder.
Allright.. Last fabrication is done... I Will hopefully get some of to powder this week..
I Hope you enjoy 😁
Stay tuned
Minor job, before powder next week. Needed to drill a hole and use this rubber inlet, for the wiring from the license plate light and blink.
You've put some very nice parts together very well and it looks great! :vroom:
Thank you
Its getting there!
Off for powder
Allright guys
A little progress for the weekend..
Got the parts back from powder, same Black as the rims :devil:
Fitted nice blink in the rear on the custom plate holder and a rizoma license plate light. Works great!
Things i need to adress :
A bracket to hold the speed sensor for the magnet ( fits snugly in the bolt, see image)
Last wiring cleaned up and make the speedo show rpm from the correct wiring with the ignition.
Paint the bike ( not sure what iam going for)
Upolstry the seat pan
New fuel lines and filters
And some other Bits and pieces.
Should be about it :umm:
Enjoy
Allright.. Messed around with it All day, got more wiring done, cleaned up a bit,
Allthough i still need to fabricate a bracket for the speed sensor, connect a wire from the speedo to the coil somehow so i can see revs, and to connect the neutral wire.
Besides that, everything seems to work :clap:
Got the tank on with some heavy dute fuel line on i had, used an old petcock oem, as My rsptor conversion petcock, one of the connections fell off.. 🤔
But, allthough iam. Not sure that it gets enough fuel, I got it started and My god I had forgot how loud it actually is 😁 its nuts!. But smeels and sounds so damn good
Tomorrow i Will try it out up and down the road if the fuelling works.. I Want to test My gears..
I adjusted the rear sets today, might do the trick..
Enjoy
I like where this is headed. Well done! :olaf:
This is looking very nice 8)
License bracket is cool, but won't your plate cover it?
Yes it Will :)
But figured might as well remove materiale rather then just a plate of metal 😉
Nice! Just a suggestion. Mead Speed in the UK make a TZ style fiberglass rear inner fender, that will keep debris away from your air filter :twocents:
Interesting.
I Will try googling it 👌
Quote from: Dvsrd on July 20, 2020, 03:32:39 PM
Nice! Just a suggestion. Mead Speed in the UK make a TZ style fiberglass rear inner fender, that will keep debris away from your air filter :twocents:
I made one out of an old GS front fender that I cut in half. I was worried about water getting thrown from the tire onto the airfilters
Since this is a Sunny weather only bike, i think i Will leave it as is, but thanks for siggestions guys
Waiting for better weather
Its pooring down at the moment, mounted pipes i got with the frame, 5 years ago, should pass noice, when getting it legal for the roads ( Then back with the Jim lomas)
Anyone tell me what they Are?
Might be rd350? Says yamaha and a number on the can
:righteous: :cheerleader: :vroom:
Just had My first illegal testride for 10km about
It shakes, and Its rough to ride on the hands 😅 handlebar feels to skinny
The gear shifter mecanism is not good to put it nicely. It shift like crap
Definately needs attention. Its a rear set and shifter from vintage smoke
But it was fun none the less to ride it. Man, Cant imagine giving it full throttle in All gears right now, Its gonna fly😁
See if you can find a 79 or later rd400 shift shaft and pawl mechanism, it has more leverage than the older style! Cheers
Just small update
Got working on the shifter mecanism today, hopefully it stays like this.
Also bend the mecanism on the carb up on both, no fuel spill so far.
I apparently drains the battery somehow, need to adress whats doing it.
Hopefully i can try to get it licensed soon ( before paint and seat) just so i can testride a bit more and adjust etc
Stay tuned
These i ment on the carbs
Milestone!! :clap:
Got the bike licesend today. Had to change the pipes, led headlight, front master etc but iam putting those back on offcourse 😁👌
Will be doing All the little things still missing over the next months until season 2021, and it Will be finished with paint, seat, right fuel lines, headlight, etc etc
:cheerleader:
I think it would look good with the 1978 RD400E paint scheme.
Mike
What colour are you thinking :)
I definitely like that you avoided the stubby tail look that has become almost a universal standard nowadays
I liked the angular coffin tank, and wanted that to continue towards the rear :clap:
Loooong time since..
Even longer story
So... Today i dropped the bike off gonna have decals designed and fabricated and applied.
Then back to painter to get clear, sanding and final clear
Sits wet sanded atm
2020 toyota supra yellow
Next post i Hope to be the finished bike 😎😉
Your bike is looking really good to me and your JLs have the angled end caps that I wanted for mine! It's great that you're so close to being finished :smiley: :thumbs:
Wow...over a year....I don't feel so bad now.
Looking very slick Greenhorn :)
Hi guys!
longt time no see :)
I thought i would return to upload a few pictures of the finished bike. It still neeeds a little here and there, buthey :cheers:
I hope iam back at the forum more permenantly, lots of good stuff in here!
Not sure how i upload pictures anymore ??
Quote from: rd400greenhorn on November 26, 2023, 03:52:01 PMNot sure how i upload pictures anymore ??
Welcome back :wave:
See this: https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=5690.0
Thank you! :)
Better pictures will be taken in the new year with further details :)
That bike looks really great. Nice job. Is it missing the gas cap?
Wow, bike looks fantastic.
Quote from: kpke on November 27, 2023, 08:30:38 AMThat bike looks really great. Nice job. Is it missing the gas cap?
thank you. No no, its a welded in pop up gas cap :afro:
very nice and clean. well done. :olaf:
..nice its gotten a whole lot easier to upload pics :righteous:
I need more info on the tree and the motogadget gauge set into it. that is the cleanest gauge setup ive ever seen. :notworthy: :bacon:
Wow, everywhere you look there's trick stuff done on that bike! :bacon: Super cool! Very nice work! :thumbs:
It's too bad your license plates are so friggen huge! They practically make you hang a billboard on the back.
Quote from: SoCal250 on November 30, 2023, 03:57:40 PMWow, everywhere you look there's trick stuff done on that bike! :bacon: Super cool! Very nice work! :thumbs:
It's too bad your license plates are so friggen huge! They practically make you hang a billboard on the back.
Haha, yeah, your not the first, especially from US that comments that ;)
Its unfortunate, but this is life in europe. No respect for bikes, the plate is huge.
Quote from: m in sc on November 30, 2023, 03:15:53 PMI need more info on the tree and the motogadget gauge set into it. that is the cleanest gauge setup ive ever seen. :notworthy: :bacon:
Thanks man! Its actually a one of, own design, in colab with a norweigan guy a few years back. I sent him my original triple tree and told the wishes i had and he already had the moto gadget speedo dummy ( He has done a lot of bike stuff) and so we ended up with this design. CNC from 1 piece of aluminum.
Back home i had it glas blasted slitely and anodized black to fit the frame and the structure black powder coating.
And, when thinking about it... the original thread on this bike is approx 7 years old i think... i started with a frame, and eventually little by little, it evolved.
My very first bike and i will never sell it, i promised my self that.
Paint is toyota supra, lightning yellow. :afro:
Custom decals on tank and rear piece from my own design ( Yes i know the kenny roberts theme has been done a million times, but i love a good yellow bike and I just thought i would be perfect for my 77 rd )
please just ask and i will also get more and better pictures of the bike and further details :cheers: