One of the most valuable threads that needs to be built here is the regulator and rectifier thread. We all know that the stock components suck.
This is the common rectifier that is used to replace the stock components.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridge-Rectifier-50A-1000V-for-3-Three-Phase-Diode-PMA-Wind-Turbine-Generator/271997001394?hash=item3f5448deb2:g:MGgAAOSw0e9Uy9L2:sc:USPSFirstClass!15214!US!-1
This is a great low cost choice for the regulator.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/duralast-voltage-regulator/130153_6248_24818
The wiring diagram is simple. I'll draw it up sometime soon.
I think this combo works on a lot of bikes. There are better options out there too, but this one is really affordable.
Quote from: sav0r on May 08, 2019, 10:49:33 PM
One of the most valuable threads that needs to be built here is the regulator and rectifier thread. We all know that the stock components suck.
I think this combo works on a lot of bikes. There are better options out there too, but this one is really affordable.
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=92.0
wrote this in the tech section in how to wire any motorcycle. you are right the stock parts suck. sql40a is twice the amperage of stock. I've never blown one. no need to get so complicated ordering the regulator. just say '75 ltd regulator in the search. vr166 regulator also works in a search.
this combo works on any bike with an alternator. some bikes need the ground point of the field changed in order to work. 'A' vs 'B' alternator regulator wiring.
please draw some diagrams. I have no artistic talent.
Rick's motorsport makes one heck of a product for the rd350 and hes local to me.
Quote from: quocle603 on May 09, 2019, 10:45:01 PM
Rick's motorsport makes one heck of a product for the rd350 and hes local to me.
if you need stock connectors and need tech support this is the way to go. for all the rest of us it's a rebranded part easily ordered from the net. ricks part is definitly not 40 amps nor a heck of a part. it does not work any better than the ford vr166t and sql40a rectifier or the honda sohc750 modern r/r it just costs $140 more.
thats why I put the generic parts search info. nothing wrong with sav0r's post. $18.99 still is twice the cost if you change the search info to 'ford external voltage regulator'. there are lots of them, just look at the pics to get the right part. $9.75 shipping included was the cheap price on ebay. it costs so little because ford used it from 1963-1987.
Quote from: sav0r on May 08, 2019, 10:49:33 PM
One of the most valuable threads that needs to be built here is the regulator and rectifier thread. We all know that the stock components suck.
This is the common rectifier that is used to replace the stock components.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridge-Rectifier-50A-1000V-for-3-Three-Phase-Diode-PMA-Wind-Turbine-Generator/271997001394?hash=item3f5448deb2:g:MGgAAOSw0e9Uy9L2:sc:USPSFirstClass!15214!US!-1
This is a great low cost choice for the regulator.
Might you be willing to elaborate on "sucks" in this context? Dangerous to other components, or inadequate for your specific desires re: performance. Not disagreeing, just curious.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/duralast-voltage-regulator/130153_6248_24818
The wiring diagram is simple. I'll draw it up sometime soon.
I think this combo works on a lot of bikes. There are better options out there too, but this one is really affordable.
Quote from: Greaser Greg on May 10, 2019, 11:26:45 AM
Quote from: sav0r on May 08, 2019, 10:49:33 PM
Might you be willing to elaborate on "sucks" in this context? Dangerous to other components, or inadequate for your specific desires re: perf
ormance. Not disagreeing, just curious.
the stock rectifier was 20a 400v or so. the new part I've ridden on for 5 years cost $2 and the specs are double. 40a 1000v.
the ford regulator is overkill. it can run a car and at $9.75 it is a cheap fix. the most difficult part of its installation is you need to sand some paint off the frame so the case has good contact.
there is no advantage if your charging system is working. if you are rebuilding an old bike why screw around. would you order new points or use the old ones? would you keep the wheel bearings or change them? new seals or re-use the old ones. these parts are cheap and disposable.
the most difficult part of installing the dohc honda r/r is knowing the black wire on the regulator plug is positive and goes to brown wire that comes on with the ignition on an rd or r5.
sucks because the stock parts are expensive. this is a mechanics forum. most of us here look for old bikes to restore, and everyone wants how. these 2 cheap parts or the modern r/r will restore any bike with an alternator.
if you are the type with a handle bar mustche and want to use a battery tender enjoy. they also belong here.
if you want to run a light weight lithium battery and use a mechanical regualor it is dangerous.
the mechanical regulator works by overcharging. you will roast your nuts when it goes up like a swagway.
It's also lighter and more compact.
Here is the regulator I use. It's 2"x2.4"x.4"
(http://chrislivengood.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/IMG_6665-456x456.jpg)
I'm at Watkins Glen this weekend, but I'll try to cook up a diagram next week.
the ford regulator works. i did mine years ago and its easy to install. just run a ground wire. the benefit over stock is its more consistent and solid state, and doesnt even remotely get over worked. but theres so much out there now its users choice so its great.
Quote from: m in sc on May 11, 2019, 03:08:33 PM
the ford regulator works. i did mine years ago and its easy to install.
I remember when you posted about that
many years ago. It was back around the same time as the XR700 igniton you were using on a RD350. :science: Ah the good ole days
Ahh, so. Thanks for the info. My bike ain't runnin til I put the engine back in, so I'll hope for the best with charging system. If not, modern electrics, here I come!