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Thanks to the two stroke hooligans that attended the event today.
Great seeing some ole faces and the benchracing stories.
Looking forward to the next event and a BIG turnout.

Cheers, Jeff

 Last update Sept. 13.

Just want to be sure this event, ( gathering ), is still happening.

Is it just a few folks meeting up for chow / brews and some bench racing,
or a few dozen / hundred folks gathering for a 2-stroke event like in the past.
I have not seen anything outside of 2SW promoting this years show.

I am far enough away that I'll need to trailer my bike (s). At least most of the
way south. A bit of an effort and cost if only a couple folks show up.

Curious and would like to know whats up.
Thanks, Jeff

 My air screws are set at 1.5 turns out. Next time I start the bike I will try adjusting them in
and out in 1/2 turn increments.
One possible issue.... The other day when I was not getting spark and trying to start the bike.
I let it sit over night and the carbs started weeping around the float bowl gaskets and had a
little gas in the overflow hose's.
So I bent the float tabs to reduce the float height and may have gone too far. Maybe I am having
a lean condition at the pilot jets? Although it does idle fine and starts with 1/2 a kick through.
Wish all my bikes started this easy.

As a side note. I am running the rebuilt stock injector pump, Honda GN2 injector oil, and initially
mixing Motul 800 @ 40:1 till I am sure the pump is working correctly.

Still think I need the replace the points and re-time, just to eliminate that possible problem.

The clutch slipping is going to be a bigger issue that I need to discuss with my engine builder.
He installed a whole new basket, pressure plate, clutch plates / springs etc...

  Thanks for following my journey.

Seems to be running on both cyl's. Both pipes getting warm, (hot).

Taking off from an idle the bike boggs giving it throttle till the R's get to maybe
2K and then it takes off. Around 4K RPM the clutch slips and the motor rips to
6-7K before I can pull the clutch lever in. 

Guessing I have a jetting issue. Both mains and pilots are brand new and carbs
cleaned and rebuilt. Think the pilot is #35 and mains are #150. running larger
than stock sizes on the recommendation of my engine builder. So far maybe 5 min
of run time on the new motor in two thermal cycles. And 1 mile of 1, 2nd and one 3rd
gear run up the street.

So seems I have a new problem... Using fresh Motul TechnoSynt gear oil.

More to follow... Thanks.
Jeff

Update:
Not sure what I did, and not sure it is a permanent fix, but, I got spark. Might be intermittent.

See pickture:

I removed the two screws holding on the carbon brushes, green wire and the brown insulated
cover for the green and orange wires being held by the clamp on the right side of the
brush assembly. The clamp looked to be binding the insulated cover before this pic was taken.

I cleaned the copper rotor and the carbon brushes with a paper towel and reinstalled everything.
 
Turn on the key and I get spark in the left cylinder. First couple kicks seemed to be intermittent,
but, now it seems to be consistent.

I'll need to check again, but that clamp might have cut through the insulation on the orange wire
from the left side points.
Will have to re-install the tank etc... and see if it will start.
Wish me luck.
Jeff

Thank you for the suggestions. I used 800 grt paper and matchbook paper to clean the points.
They look fine to my eye. The plastic / fiberglass followers that ride on the cam lobe also looks
to be in good condition. I can take a pic and post it up here if anyone might see something that
(me), Captain Obvious, might have missed.
I will inspect the left side points even closer for any possible grounding.

And as a last resort replace the point sets with the new ones I have. Will have to invite my
friend So-Cal-250 back with his dial indicator kit to re-time the ignition.

Thanks for the tip in the carbon brushes. I was hoping they were not the problem.

  Hopefully I will have a positive update soon.
Cheers, Jeff

Yes, gas.
Pull plug, grounded to head... no spark.
Thanks, Jeff

I am at a complete loss to figure out why I am not getting spark to my left side cylinder.

SoCal250 came over and we set the point gap(s) and set the ignition timing as close
to 1.8 BTDC on each point set as possible. He used the dial gage to set the piston height.
and a little 12VDC light to turn on when the point gap opened.

New Yausa battery fully charged. Added gas and gave it a kick, or two and the RD started
on the Right side cylinder only.
Things I've tried so far.:
1. Changed spark plug to another new one.
2. Checked orange wire continuity from the point plate to the coil = Okay.
3. swapped the left and right coil set, including plug wire and plug cap.
4. just for the heck of it, I added grounding wires from the studs that mount the
      coils to the frame. My frame has been powder coated and the coils would not
      see ground if they needed it. Which I don't think they do.
[Edit:]
5. changed condenser with a new one from Economy.

Still only runs on the Right side cylinder.
Only thing I can think of is there is a problem with the left side point plate itself.

[Edit:] I have a new set of points, but, would have to re-gap and re-time with gage tool.

Visually left set appears to be in great shape and looks no different than the other point set.

  OR!! The carbon brush(s) are failing.

I do not fully understand how this system works and if the brushes could cause
my problem.

Does the Rectifier / Regulator system have any effect on the Ignition system?
Also, I do not think it does. I believe they are independent.

Before I drop the $$ on an electronic ignition system I would like to figure out my problem.

Thanks, Jeff

I'm thinking I need to spend the night in Huntington after the Hooligans show
and attend the Vintage show on Sunday.
Thanks Russ

The latest  . Put 1 1/2 qts of injector oil in the tank and the sight glass window leaks.
I can't catch a break.
New one on order.
Is it 5:00 O-clock somewhere? 

Looking like I may not have a running bike for the Hooligan 2-stroke show.

Problem solved: PM Sent to Arrow, this is a copy.



You may get a laugh out of this.....wait for it....

The roll pin in the adjuster pulley was pushed in too deep.
It was catching on the pump piston and binding it up.. 

I completely disassembled the pump. Inspected and cleaned up every
little bit of debris, not much, and put it back together. I made the same
mistake that the re-builder did. Installed the roll pin in too deep.
It worked fine till I installed the adjuster pulley and installed the pin.
Backed the pin out .005" - ? and it works fine.

Zoom in on the picture. Not sure anyone can tell from it, but, there it is.

One item of note and a bit of luck. The tiny detent pins that engage the drive
gear, and are spring loaded, popped out and landed on the large towel I was
using on the work bench. That could have gone sooo wrong. Were a PIA to get
back in and properly locate that gear.

Tested the fluid flow, both outputs seem to be even.

Time to get the bike together and finish up the last remaining little things.
  Thanks for your suggestions and guidance.
Jeff

3 1/2 months since the last post.
A lot of that was waiting for the rebuilt oil pump and the missing worm gear
thrust washer that Partzilla took weeks to deliver. Only to find my '73 RD250
does not use that washer...  Wasted days.
The most recent issue was that I pinched the rear tube installing the BT45.
Damn toughest tire I have ever tried to mount to a rim...
So a couple days ago, new tube, and again the worst damn tire to break the
bead and remove / replace the tube. Success!
Now I am having trouble with the rebuilt oil pump. ( see Chuck's oil pump thread )
I will follow up with the repair / fix here or in a new oil pump thread.

Still need to add acid to the battery, and fluids when the pump is working.

Fingers crossed first start up this weekend or next week.

So for the obligatory picture update... From my backyard yesterday.

Cheers, Jeff

Thanks.
I want to apologize to Chuck for hi-jacking his thread.
Was not my intent.
I will create a new post for any follow ups.
Arrow, you did not rebuild my pump, so no fault of yours.
I am curious what the issue is and anxious to learn the inner
workings of these things.
As a retired aerospace engineering designer I guess it is in my
nature to dissect problems and figure out solutions.
  on....

Yes. It seems to be sticking on every other stroke.
On the short stroke, I can push it in / down with my fingers.
This is with the throttle plate turned to max.
The stroke does not feel smooth.
I assume on the down ( pump ) stroke I should be able to
cycle the shaft in and out freely.?
I am guessing at idle, up to maybe 1/2 throttle the pumping
should be roughly equal. Am I of the right mind?
Guess it's got to come apart.
EBay has a NOS one for $300!!! Yikes.
I'll get back in a day or two.
Cheers, Jeff

I wonder if I could push the pump by hand
on the short stroke?
Need another guy, or, a third hand.
One to hold the drill, one to hold the throttle and
one to push the pump piston.
Or take it apart for inspection...
Thank you again.