Daytona

cygnus · June 23, 2019, 12:05:16 AM

The $30 repop fusebox quality far exceeds its cost. The crimps are awesome and it has good wire. Economy was out of stock when I ordered, I actually received a phone call from them to let me know and when I would get it which is awesome service! Used some Farmall cloth wire I had leftover from fixing a Super M generator harness and fabbed a ground wire to replace the mouse chewed one from the bike.

cygnus · June 23, 2019, 12:09:51 AM

Deep breath then flip the key......no whiff of ozone. Everything works ! Wont be able to verify the self cancelling signals til its a rider.

cygnus · June 23, 2019, 12:10:54 AM

x

cygnus · June 23, 2019, 05:03:26 PM

Dug through my tub of parts not used in eons looking for something else and saw this. Is this the correct Daiichi replacement condenser for the 400? Size difference in pics is an optical illusion....its a tad/slightly longer but the same in all dimensions

SUPERTUNE · June 23, 2019, 08:06:18 PM

With 5600 miles, leave the original one on for now.
It is like all of the replacement ones I have used in the past.
Chuck

cygnus · June 24, 2019, 10:41:39 PM

Thanks again, I'll leave the original Mitsubishi on for now and see how it works. I chased my tail with a randomly faulty condenser on my wife's KZ once and I tend to just put a new one on

Dug out the dial indicator and timing goodies and put the NOS points in. Left one ended up at 1.83 on the first shot so I just set the right to match. Pulled the brushes to look/clean and clean the rings. Plenty of life left.

cygnus · June 24, 2019, 10:45:48 PM

First I thought I would see what it was set at before I removed the old stuff. I hooked up to the left and couldnt get the light to come on. The right set would barely bring the light on dimly. Put the new ones on and all was fine. I know its been sitting 28 years but I dont know how it ran with these hahaha.

cygnus · June 24, 2019, 10:53:20 PM

Those that make their own tools might like this. My "timing plank". I built this to time my Honda Z50 when I was nine. Some scrap aluminum and old screws, a broken board from the corn crib dump and the cap/lens from my boy scout flashlight. I've added new wire, clips and duct tape over the years but the base design is the same. The tech at the Honda shop showed me the Honda tool and since I couldnt afford one I went in true farmboy run what you got style hahaha. Guys look at me funny when I use it but I haven't ever had the heart or desire to replace it. First bike tool I made and all !

cygnus · June 25, 2019, 11:09:16 PM

My least favorite thing to do

cygnus · June 26, 2019, 10:45:38 PM

Don't think the same dude welded both hahaha......and I learned packing baffles will be the end of me and my bloodline

cygnus · June 27, 2019, 11:20:53 PM

x

cygnus · June 28, 2019, 11:32:42 PM

Carbs are synched/sank/sunk (hard to get a pic the way the leds dance). Sounds good, its charging, all lights work, clutch feels good, no scary noises, no leaks as of yet. Just a "dash" of fuel in the left overflow tube once and the tach damping fluid is shot. Other than that I'll move on to the chassis/brakes and that nasty tank lurking in the corner

cygnus · July 01, 2019, 12:35:41 PM

Dismantled the brakes to see what was lurking inside there. I will put up a few pics when I get a moment. Using 40 year old lines isn't something I consider so I'll have HEL make up a pair as I see no faithful reproductions. While nasty, both calipers are fine for a rebuild with good looking pistons and bores.

Sadly, both masters have pits in the bores and are scrap. Another expensive reminder of walking by your bike in the garage for 28 years thinking all was ok. Especially since both are more one limited production model/one year items. Only ones on ebay are scrap as well. UK RD250 used the same 14mm Asco but all those on Ebay UK are also suspect. Prior years RD400 Asco would "look" proper but going to 5/8" from 14mm would give an unacceptable ratio I think.....and all of those available are highly suspect which seems the norm for these. Most likely will just put on the 13mm Magura and he will have to live with the different levers as a reminder of motorcycle malfeasance ;D

The rear looks the same as prior RD400 except for the change from pressure switch to leverage switch so is a swap possibility, just have to make a jumper harness for the switch or plug the orifice (if its a standard pipe thread) and use the oem leverage switch. But, all those found have been sketchy at best as well. HVC has a nice magura refit kit but I'm not keen on bending the frame leverage switch ears to make it fit. But, that may be the best option. Can't be buying scrap parts again and again until I find ones with a good bore.

When I get a chance I will do a "want ad" hoping against hope a member has good spare spares that could be parted with.

Czakky · July 01, 2019, 01:41:54 PM

Going to be a lucky owner. Well done and thanks for taking us along.

SUPERTUNE · July 02, 2019, 09:06:45 AM

Quote from: cygnus on July 01, 2019, 12:35:41 PM
Dismantled the brakes to see what was lurking inside there. I will put up a few pics when I get a moment. Using 40 year old lines isn't something I consider so I'll have HEL make up a pair as I see no faithful reproductions. While nasty, both calipers are fine for a rebuild with good looking pistons and bores.

Sadly, both masters have pits in the bores and are scrap. Another expensive reminder of walking by your bike in the garage for 28 years thinking all was ok. Especially since both are more one limited production model/one year items. Only ones on ebay are scrap as well. UK RD250 used the same 14mm Asco but all those on Ebay UK are also suspect. Prior years RD400 Asco would "look" proper but going to 5/8" from 14mm would give an unacceptable ratio I think.....and all of those available are highly suspect which seems the norm for these. Most likely will just put on the 13mm Magura and he will have to live with the different levers as a reminder of motorcycle malfeasance ;D

The rear looks the same as prior RD400 except for the change from pressure switch to leverage switch so is a swap possibility, just have to make a jumper harness for the switch or plug the orifice (if its a standard pipe thread) and use the oem leverage switch. But, all those found have been sketchy at best as well. HVC has a nice magura refit kit but I'm not keen on bending the frame leverage switch ears to make it fit. But, that may be the best option. Can't be buying scrap parts again and again until I find ones with a good bore.

When I get a chance I will do a "want ad" hoping against hope a member has good spare spares that could be parted with.

I don't know of a proper solution for the rear other than adapting something.
5/8 won't hurt the rear much, just makes it less sensitive and more travel to hard brake. (set adjuster for zero slack)
Use 2014-2017 SR400 Yamaha master for the front, 14mm and has very close same lever and the stock brake switch will fit.
You also can use all the parts if your lever is still good.
Daytona lever, chrome lever bolt (SR is black) and nut, banjo bolt and washers, spring and switch all can be reused on the SR master. Will need the SR master, the clamp and the clamp bolts.

Chuck

News:

Daytona