Messages

Oh, ya.  That would help.  It's my 2 stroke Kawasaki Bighorn.  I should add, I got a chance to work on it this afternoon.  I lowered the fuel level and that helped a lot even though I had it set to factory spec.  Idles and accelerates better than ever.  Had a little surge too and now that is gone.  Since doing that the grabbiness of the clutch has cut back too now.  Still there but not nearly as bad as it was.  I also adjusted my clutch cable again and that seemed to help as well.  However, I am thinking my clutch cable is pretty much stretched and that's why I can't get a complete release.  It doesn't creep when the motor is running but, pushing it around in the garage with it in gear, and clutch pulled in I can still feel the drag.

I am kind of struggling with proper clutch adjustment.  I have the prescribed free play in the clutch lever.  I have the clutch adjusted to what I think would be maximum grab when released however, two things I notice.

If I pull in the clutch while it's in gear the bike still moves when I kick.  Shouldn't I be able to kick start it while in key just holding the clutch?

While riding, when I let off the throttle, I can get a jerkiness of the clutch or the bike still trying to lurch going forward.  Shouldn't it just be a steady winding down using the compression of the motor?

Excellent write up Chuck!

Good for you M in SC and it's a great cause.  This will be my 3rd year of participating and my 1st on a 2T.  Looking forward to it! 

Thanks for the input everyone.     It is appreciated. Just for the record it's my 350 Bighorn that I am working on.  Had Klemm rework the cylinder and head to be lower octane friendly.   

Ok good.  I just finished the 2nd heat cycle.  Retested and they barely budged.

When checking the head bolts with a torque wrench should you loosen them first and then tighten to spec or just check them to make sure they are still at proper torque?   

You are fast!  :-)  Nice job.