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Pipes ready for repaint on the RD. Hopefully the weather will cooperate soon. Rear wheel off of RZ for tire change.
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A productive afternoon of pipe painting and scrubbing on the RD.
Your 75 is sweet.
Thank you!
what brand rear set are on the RD.
Vintage Smoke. They work great. He did a 1st class job on them.
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RD done except for final test ride/paint cure. RZ wheel headed to Guard Hill Cycle for a new Road Rider, tube and balance.
Why do you run a tube in the RZ wheel, Tim?
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on April 10, 2021, 05:33:27 PM
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A productive afternoon of pipe painting and scrubbing on the RD.
Interesting barn roof you have there.
Quote from: rodneya on April 15, 2021, 01:01:05 PM
Interesting barn roof you have there.
when i saw it in real life it really threw me for a loop. :dawg:
Daddy bought a couple of school buses to haul big round bales of hay. When they built the corn crib he used the top of one of them for the roof...
And that, friends and neighbors, is ingenuity.
Sorry didn't see the question earlier. I can't get either one of the wheels to quit leaking at the valve stem to save me. Neither could the local Yamaha dealer. They put new stems in twice once for free. So I have been running tubes in them.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on April 16, 2021, 01:56:27 AM
Sorry didn't see the question earlier. I can't get either one of the wheels to quit leaking at the valve stem to save me. Neither could the local Yamaha dealer. They put new stems in twice once for free. So I have been running tubes in them.
What if you lightly spot faced the surface around the valve, on the outside (tyre side) of the rim?
There is a stem that GoldWing riders have relied on for years, called a "Patchboy" stem. All metal with rubber seals both inside and out. Available in different lengths, sizes, angles, even tees. GL1800 riders switched to them because the Honda original rubber-mounted stems were a major cause of rapid air loss.
Thanks for the advice. I will try it next tire change.
no downside to running a tube unless its a race bike. :twocents:
What's the downside to running tubes in a racing motorcycle tire? I run tubes in my as the OEM rims are not designed to be tubeless (1976 RD400).
Rob
Quote from: Plasticman on April 16, 2021, 12:35:13 PM
What's the downside to running tubes in a racing motorcycle tire? I run tubes in my as the OEM rims are not designed to be tubeless (1976 RD400).
Rob
Weight. More specifically unsprung AND rotating weight. Front+rear tube easily adds up to 2 lbs/ 0.9kg or more. Lighter wheels are easier to accellerate, and makes the job easier for the suspension. How much 2 inner tubes will affect lap times, I have no idea. Rider skill will definitely be a much more important factor..... And the air pressure is supposed to drop quicker from a tube tyre than a tubeless one, in case of a puncture.
My own experience with reduced unsprung weight on my XS 650, is that it definitely makes a difference. But that was a more severe "diet" than just going tubeless. I replaced the oem dual discs and calipers with a single, modern 320 mm disc and a Brembo caliper. And I replaced the oem chromed steel front fender with an alloy fender. I also used Aluminum fender bolts, Titanium caliper and disc bolts, made aluminum bearing spacer, "speedo delete"and rh side spacer, like on the RD. Altogether this reduced unsprung weight by 11 lbs/ 5 kg. Which amounts to about 10 inner tubes.... But the front suspension on the XS worked a whole lot better after this unsprung weight reduction.
you really cant feel the difference, sorry. just cant. i defy anyone to actually tell or feel the difference on a street ridden rz with tubes or not. I've done both. so has Tim. He reported no loss of feel or responsiveness.
Quote from: pidjones on April 16, 2021, 06:37:41 AM
There is a stem that GoldWing riders have relied on for years, called a "Patchboy" stem. All metal with rubber seals both inside and out. Available in different lengths, sizes, angles, even tees. GL1800 riders switched to them because the Honda original rubber-mounted stems were a major cause of rapid air loss.
I will never use rubber stems in tubeless bike wheels again. I've had one fail while riding. Luckily, or perhaps miraculously, it was on the rear, I was at non-hooligan speeds and I had just come through a turn. I did feel like good Karma came back to me that day. Had it been mid-turn, at speed and on the front....well, it could have ended very badly. I broke down every tubeless wheel I had and swapped them all to steel stems. If I die doing something I love, I'll be good with it; as long as it's not due to failure of a rubber valve stem.
Quote from: Inov8 on April 16, 2021, 03:21:09 PM
I will never use rubber stems in tubeless bike wheels again. I've had one fail while riding. Luckily, or perhaps miraculously, it was on the rear, I was at non-hooligan speeds and I had just come through a turn. I did feel like good Karma came back to me that day. Had it been mid-turn, at speed and on the front....well, it could have ended very badly. I broke down every tubeless wheel I had and swapped them all to steel stems. If I die doing something I love, I'll be good with it; as long as it's not due to failure of a rubber valve stem.
I agree 100%. also have been putting 90 degree stems on all the tubeless bikes, big quality of life improvement there. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on April 16, 2021, 03:13:47 PM
you really cant feel the difference, sorry. just cant. i defy anyone to actually tell or feel the difference on a street ridden rz with tubes or not. I've done both. so has Tim. He reported no loss of feel or responsiveness.
I did not claim that a tube will be a significant or even detectable improvement for most riders. Just pointed out what the downside may be, albeit minor.
After all it was you that said "no downside to running a tube unless its a race bike" :cheesy:
A tube may also affect the temperature in a race tyre?
Exactly.
I can't feel any difference like Mark said.
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Both bikes done. Well I hope they are. It rained just enough to wet the road so no test rides today. I wiped the RD down again and ran it up a couple times to cure the high temp paint. Then I put the rear wheel with the new Road Rider back on the RZ and adjusted the chain , checked all the servicing and gave the grease fitting on the swingarm a couple pumps. Then I gave the bike a good detail and called it a day
14 days until Deals Gap 2021.
:metal: :metal: :metal: :metal: :haw:
they're looking good timmy :clap:
Thanks!! :patriot: :patriot:
RD test ride was no good. :bang: :bang: :bang: Battery failed. It was almost 4 years old. As soon as I turned on the turn signal the motor missed. Battery read 8 volts when I got back to the shop. 2 minutes later it showed fully charged according to my battery charger (which further confirmed it to me). I swapped in a regulator and same thing. I went and bought another AGM battery and now all appears to be well. I turned on the headlight, mashed the brake and put on the turn signals and it showed 14.5 volts at 5000. Another test ride will tell the tale. Fingers crossed. Thanks M in SC for the guidance and endless patience answering my questions. I hate electrical troubleshooting.
I'm down to the wire. Talked to painter, dropped off side cover decals that S&S failed to send the first time. Painter said he'd be done by this Friday. Cometic said my head gaskets should have shipped yesterday, and usually takes one to two days. Started painting side covers and they need a few more coats, but the weather is crap. It SNOWED again. Thankfully melting... Rat bastids.
Just attached the reed block spacers so the cylinders are ready for the motor. New little end bearings and with luck, I'll have the motor in the bike. Need to install electrics, attach wiring to frame, attach rear fender, cut chain to size, mount front sprocket and chain. Assemble front end, handlebars, grips..... basically build the bike.
It can be done... I think.