Got the tank on i bought thru the Sale section.
Got the Electrical sorted out.
carbs cleaned.
Put gas in.
Only right side fired right up.
Switched plugs, same thing, only right side.
I then switched spark plug leads, and nothing = is that normal as the timing per cylinder may be opposite?
So, anyone have a short list of order to what to check, and values.
I also have a 250 here I can compare to, and swap parts just to get running.
both sides are timed separately, so, just swapping the leads means the plug will fire at bottom dead center instead of top.
To check the coil functions, swap the COIL wires left and right. That doesn't affect timing. If the bike starts running on left side then you found your culprit in the coil. Also, you can simply lay the plug across the head and see if it sparks as you kick it over.
check connections at points. also make sure left side crankcase isnt full of fuel. take plug out, run on right cyl only. see if a shitload of fuel pumps out of left cyl. if so, thats prob the issue. let air out, fit new plug, try again.
if not that, then onto electrical.
I was thinking that timing thing as stated above, and that they were opposite.
When I took left plug out it was not soaked.
So do not think its flooded
I will try the coil swap tonite.
Thanks all.
M
when you kick it over with the plug out does it spark? if so.... look at carb.
I will try the spark thing first.
Hard to convince my 14 year old daughter to hold the spark plug while I kick it over.
She asks why?
I say to see if it sparks.
The she runs away.
:dawg:
So if the coil ends up being bad:
Find a Stock one, or is there a better aftermarket choice?
M
Quote from: Milan on June 09, 2022, 11:03:45 AM
So if the coil ends up being bad:
Find a Stock one, or is there a better aftermarket choice?
M
Dyna mini coil is a great choice and about $100 on ebay. Lots of cheaper options tho.
1st gen sv650 coil. pretty much a bolt in.
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=4576.msg38688#msg38688
Or stock ones from Economy Cycle.
Been there, done that.
Troubleshooting
Primary coil =
4.3 & 4.4
Secondary =
8.4 & 8.6 no cap
Secondary with cap =
50 & 0.
2 different leads.
1 has straight wire that pushen into hole in cap.
That one gave 0.
Other cap is twist on type & gave 50.
So pysh type not makinge contact
So I bent & burred the straight wire a little.
Put back in, and now I hava 8.6 at the cap.
The orher twist one still has over 50
replace the caps. they should all screw in. like said, caps and wires minimally.
One of the leads had a solid wire in it?
So cannot screw in a cap.
I ordered a set from HVC
Put the 250 coils & wires in the 350.
Started on 1 same cylinder again.
Took plug out. Was wet.
Started bike and getting spark.
Let air out.
Put plug back in.
Started on 1 cylinder again.
Such thing as a weak spark?
Nit being enough to ignite?
M
did you ever check for spark w the plug pulled out?
Yes.
Sparks like crazy when laid on case while bike running on other cylinder.
Is there a way to measure this?
What is your battery voltage?
Took the Battery out of the 250.
Put in.
Bike starts. One cylinder.
One kick.
Gracias
M
probably a carb issue then.
stock points ignition ? engine having good compression ?
I believe its stock ignition & points.
Had borh carbs out & cleaned them.
Don't have a compression tester.
But even if low it still should start on that cylinder?
Is there such a thing as low spark?
Took other plug out.
Kicked bike over.
Get a nice blue spark
Other cylinder plug just gets a little spark.
So points or condensor?
points are just a mechanical switch. if the condesor goes bad it will spark a LOT at the points when running. what is the voltage at the brown wires at the coil with the key on? I dont care if its a brand new battery.
compression shouldnt matter to get it to idle unless theres a hole in the piston.
make sure the wring at the points is isolated correctly as well. like this:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/general-tech/ignitions/points-wiring-layout-insulator.jpg)
also make sure the gap is set to .3-.4mm.
About 12 volts at brown wire, that is common to both coils.
Orange wire on left side has continuity from coil to points.
Points are closing.
So where does the power come from prior to the points that makes the pulse?
the points collapse the field, that 'sends' the power to the plugs. so its from the battery. either your crankcase is full of fuel, exhaust is clogged (doubful) or your carbs need to be looked at again.
Not getting spark on left side
Spark produced using orange wire from point when contacts open & close.
Right?
Found this
Too wide a point gap decreases the dwell angle. This does not give the coil sufficient time to charge, resulting in a weak spark.
So time to order the tool & check the gap
M
just use a feeler gauge and set gap.
you said:
'Yes.
Sparks like crazy when laid on case while bike running on other cylinder.
Is there a way to measure this?'
now there's not. this makes no sense.
Yes.
Confuses me too.
It was sparking when I first looked at it.
Now it is very weak, or non existent.
I will work on it again tonite.
M
CHARGE YOUR BATTERY AS WELL, and look at condition of all wires and connectors related. I chased a bad points-to-coil wire on my T500 for a few weeks, and it was intermittent. repaired it, then put on a cdi anyway. lol.
Looks like it was a bad condenser.
Swaped leads & got spark.
Put RD250 one on, & both spark.
Must have had a short to ground on that side.
( single condeser, dual leads )
Good news!
glad you found it. changing the 40+ year old ign components is one of the 1st things i do on a 'new' bike.
Quote from: m in sc on June 15, 2022, 10:11:22 AM
glad you found it. changing the 40+ year old ign components is one of the 1st things i do on a 'new' bike.
Do you swap them with OEM? Or something aftermarket?