Hey everyone!
New to the forum. I'm working on a new-to-me 77 RD400D. I decided to do the Mike's XS Emulators and a set of Race Tech fork springs and I've been all up and down this forum, the Mike's XS instructions, and all the Race Tech literature and I've learned a ton but I'm still looking for one piece of information that doesn't seem to be clear:
The Race Tech emulators apparently come with "adapters" that go between the damping rod and the emulator. It isn't clear to me what these adapters are accomplishing. My best guess is that they are used simply to give clearance between the nut on the back side of the valve and the roll pin that runs through the center of the damping rod. Is that correct?
I have already machined my damping rods to just below the upper holes and also machined a step into the top of the rod so that the emulator fits snugly. I also cut out the center of the roll pin so there are no clearance issues with the nut.
As far as I can tell, I should just have to add the additional holes to the lower end of the rods and use the PVC tubing to add in the appropriate amount of preload and everything should work fine, correct?
Anything else I missed?
Thanks!
that is correct.
I didn't even need to touch the roll pin on my 250 forks, at least at the setting I was happy with. It's an excellent budget mod, particularly in conjunction with stiffer, straight rate, springs. Cheers!
The adjustable-preload fork caps from Economy Cycle allow you to omit the stack of washers that comes with the Race Tech kit. I don't know if the Mike's XS kit has washers for preload fine-tuning, but I thought the washer shims were kinda sketchy. Besides that, most of the RD fork caps I've seen look like they were removed using a pipe wrench at some point in their life.
Use 10 wt fork oil. Anything thicker is too stiff.
IR8D8R
hes right adjustable caps are def the way to go. on mine w valves:
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/2023/commute-2-9-23_2.jpeg)
Quote from: IR8D8R on June 12, 2024, 03:41:21 PMUse 10 wt fork oil. Anything thicker is too stiff.
Thanks for emphasizing that. I was planning on using 10wt but in my travels I have seen a few people mention 15wt and wonder if that would be better... especially because I am generally one who prefers a stiffer ride. But yeah, I think I'll stick with the 10wt.
Quote from: m in sc on June 12, 2024, 04:04:56 PMhes right adjustable caps are def the way to go. on mine w valves:
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/2023/commute-2-9-23_2.jpeg)
It looks like the Economy Cycle caps are out of stock and, frankly, the price is a little higher than their value to me.
10 wt oil? I use 20 wt with my Mikes XS emulators. I don't think the XS650 orifices are the same as Race Tech ones made for a RD. I guess it's easy enough to change out for the desired effect. I'm 150 pounds and it is not stiff.
Race Tech says to use 10 wt. I used 20 wt. I'm 250lbs. It's too stiff. I had the oil before I decided to do the emulators, so I used it rather than order more. It's like a rock. I'll change it soon.
I thought that the Mike's XS versions were knockoffs of the Race Tech but there are many different versions. YMMV.
IR8D8R
they are knockoffs, but good ones. hell, i ran 5 wt in mine but the bike is super light.
Quote from: IR8D8R on June 12, 2024, 03:41:21 PMThe adjustable-preload fork caps from Economy Cycle allow you to omit the stack of washers that comes with the Race Tech kit. I don't know if the Mike's XS kit has washers for preload fine-tuning, but I thought the washer shims were kinda sketchy. Besides that, most of the RD fork caps I've seen look like they were removed using a pipe wrench at some point in their life.
Use 10 wt fork oil. Anything thicker is too stiff.
IR8D8R
I am pretty sure the Racetech kit for my RD350 came with pvc pipe that you cut to the preferred length
Being new to the rd game, I put 15 wt in. I'm 190, with clip-ons and riding the bike a few miles, holy heck my arms, hands, etc. feel like crap. And I'm in pretty damn good shape. I'm going to put 10 or maybe even 5 in cause its way to stiff with the springs I put in there.
My new springs (for my stock forks) came with pvc pipe but I didn't use any of it. I ended up using one thick washer and the bike is super stiff in the front. Figured it didn't need anything else.
yeah, on mine im running stock springs, and the stock spacer was cut in half.(the valve adds space so that has to be taken into account). like said, this is on the lightweight. also have the valve adjustment set to the softest setting, its 1 turn from seating the spring on the valve. remember, these were intended for an xs650 which is heavier.
Might I suggest that when changing suspension components, it might be worthwhile to set it up statically before riding.
My preference is to start with static sag and get that in the ballpark first, then compress the forks and watch how long they take to compress and to rebound. They should sink fairly quickly and rise at a slower rate. When that feels right, try pressing down at the rear of the tank/front of the seat and see that both ends rise or fall at basically the same rate. Properly set up for solo riding, both ends should move at more or less the same rate.
Fine tune after a controlled ride at a closed circuit (none of us would ride above the speed limits on the streets obviously :whistle: ) at different speeds and adjust to suit.
^^^ excellent advice ^^^
Would the adjustable caps help with front end stiffness or can a just cut the pvc pipe some?
the pvc does the same thing, just not externally adjustable and definitely nowhere near as pretty. :love eyes: :dawg:
but its preload adjustment, not stiffness per-say. has more to do with sag.
Update: I wish I had read Teazer's comment before I finished everything but I stumbled through the preload and valve setup and here's how it happened.
I had no idea what kind of preload to go with for my new springs so I decided to match what it had with the stock setup and go from there. As for the valve: I understand that it is designed for a heavier bike but as someone who generally prefers a slightly stiffer ride, I figured I'd go with the suggested 2 turns. I also used 10wt oil set to the Race-Tech suggestion of 140mm.
As you might have guessed, that amount of preload was WAAAY too much but I still didn't have any idea what amount to put in. At this point I guessed that the logical first step would be to start at zero preload and go from there.
So I did that and to be honest, I still think it's a bit stiffer than I'd prefer but it's rideable for now. Do you think I should set the valves to one turn?
try it. can always go back if its too light.