When I pulled my carbs apart months ago I found the mount for the float was broken. The broken piece was not in the carb so guessing the previous owner ran it like this.
I'd rather attempt some kind of repair.
Any ideas? I thought about jb steel stick but not sure how that would hold up to fuel.
hi,
drill and tap a small thread into the post, insert a small bolt with the head reshaped and a hinge pin hole drilled thru it maybe?
its what i would do, but im a proper bodger.
cheers
les.
my approach would be a small hole drilled thru (yellow circle) and safety wire (green line) the pivot pin down into the old part left. 0.02
Quote from: STLMike on August 16, 2024, 11:09:01 PMWhen I pulled my carbs apart months ago I found the mount for the float was broken. The broken piece was not in the carb so guessing the previous owner ran it like this.
I'd rather attempt some kind of repair.
Any ideas? I thought about jb steel stick but not sure how that would hold up to fuel.
No JB Weld won't solve it. I previously bought a Yamaha YZ with stock Mikuni that was running (rough) and went through it and inside the carb a repair with JB was made in exactly the same place. Don't know how long it was in there, but the epoxy had softened and started disintegrating leaving float arm tilted to 1 side and residue in the bowl and I imagine some probably had already ingested through intake tract into the motor.
Don't waste your time attempting fixing this, it shouldn't be hard to find another carb body.
Quote from: RDnuTZ on August 17, 2024, 10:25:01 AMDon't waste your time attempting fixing this, it shouldn't be hard to find another carb body.
I agree!
And please stay away from the chineese carbs. :twocents:
nothing wrong w repairing a carb in the way i mentioned, at all. theres other ways ive dine it as well but its gets pretty involved.
that being said.. i'm pretty sure most of us can afford a replacement carb, but sometimes its just more fun to repair something than throw parts on it.
I've fixed Weber carbs broken like this by making a small U-shaped "staple" out of thin brass rod, drilling holes either side of the float pin, and using hydraulic/pneumatic green loctite (#569?) to hold the staple in place. #290 is supposed to be gasoline proof too.
IR8D8R
Quote from: m in sc on August 17, 2024, 06:20:34 AMmy approach would be a small hole drilled thru (yellow circle) and safety wire (green line) the pivot pin down into the old part left. 0.02
I've used a similar repair method on a Mikuni carb and it works well. Use a drill press to ensure you get a straight hole drilled in the carb body.
I've decided to go with Marks suggestion. appears it will work perfect. I filed a V into the pin as well to keep the safety wire from moving.
On another note
Wtf is this plate for? I don't recall the VM28 having this. I'm not sure if the gasket goes on top or below this plate. Half tempted to do without as I dont see what purpose it serves.
Quote from: STLMike on August 24, 2024, 12:11:07 AMI've decided to go with Marks suggestion. appears it will work perfect. I filed a V into the pin as well to keep the safety wire from moving.
On another note
Wtf is this plate for? I don't recall the VM28 having this. I'm not sure if the gasket goes on top or below this plate. Half tempted to do without as I dont see what purpose it serves. Carb is a VM30
From the Mikuni manual
Thanks for that. I could not find anything on online with that particular baffle