Has anyone tried fitting a slightly larger battery into your RD ?
I was looking at dimensions: my stock size 12N5.5A-3B measures 4" long x 3.5" wide x 4.5" high.
I was considering trying to modify my battery box to install a Yuasa GRT sealed battery: a YTX5L-BS which measures 4.5" long (this is 1/2" longer than the stock battery) x 2 13/16" wide x 4 3/16" high.
My stock battery (12N5.5A-3B)battery has 58 CCA(cold cranking amps)and the YTX5L-BS Yuasa GRT sealed battery has 70 CCA,plus the GRT battery's + & - terminals are compatible.
I would somehow need to see if I could squeeze a 1/2" more length inside my stock battery box..
Could this help my bike from being a 'Plug Fouler' ?! Lol
What are your thoughts ?
The YTX5L-BS will fit in the stock rd battery box, we've sold them for years. It's a bit narrower but you can block it up with some foam. I don't think it's going to help with plug fouling, what heat range plugs are you running?
Quote from: Economy Cycle John on April 19, 2025, 11:54:31 PMThe YTX5L-BS will fit in the stock rd battery box, we've sold them for years. It's a bit narrower but you can block it up with some foam. I don't think it's going to help with plug fouling, what heat range plugs are you running?
Hi John, that's good news !
Do you like the upgrade from stock 12N5.5A-3B conventional up to YTX5L-BS sealed ?
I was joking about the 'plug fouler' because that's me as a forum newby.
A lot of guys run the 4ah scooter/alarm batteries that connect with spades. They seem to hold up well in a dormant state, which works well with RD's that spend most of their life sitting in the garage. And just let them sit in the bike, no charger. My experience with other typical motorcycle batteries is they all suck and you should plan on replacing them every year or two, maybe 3. Some guys swear by Yuasa but I don't find them to be any better than generic batteries and the Yuasa's have quite a premium price. Like tires and premix or the pump, there's no shortage of opinions about batteries.
Quote from: Economy Cycle John on April 20, 2025, 01:05:52 AMA lot of guys run the 4ah scooter/alarm batteries that connect with spades. They seem to hold up well in a dormant state, which works well with RD's that spend most of their life sitting in the garage. And just let them sit in the bike, no charger. My experience with other typical motorcycle batteries is they all suck and you should plan on replacing them every year or two, maybe 3. Some guys swear by Yuasa but I don't find them to be any better than generic batteries and the Yuasa's have quite a premium price. Like tires and premix or the pump, there's no shortage of opinions about batteries.
'4AH scooter/alarm batteries' I just noticed one while looking online a couple hours ago and thought, 'I wonder if that will work'?. Good idea John.
Do they also have the #YTX5L-BS battery number? if not,can you give me a reference/battery number ? I imagine it's the same size as the YTX5L-BS.
I found one;a Yuasa alarm battery NP5-12.
Looks a bit smaller than the YTX5L-BS so Ill brace it w/ dense foam and be careful to connect it up properly w/ custom spade-to-eyelet connector cords.
its 5ah and yup, foam does it. i run them on a bunch of bikes
Get a vape ignition and you wont be fouling plugs again
Quote from: rodneya on April 20, 2025, 02:06:35 PMGet a vape ignition and you wont be fouling plugs again
Exactly. And no more alternator brushes, breaker points, condensers to replace and adjust constantly. Consistent timing, stronger spark, easy starting and 150 watts for lights. So a 55/60 W H4 or even a 80/100 W H4 is no longer too much.
And a significant weight saving as well. I don't remember exactly, but I believe 1.5 kg/ 3 lbs lighter when stock stator/rotor/coils/ regulator/rectifier are replaced with the Vape setup. If you then replace the stock 5.5 Ah lead-acid battery with a lighter alarm battery, or a LiPoFe battery (The one I use weighs only 450 g/ 1 lb), you get rid of another 1.5 kg/ 3 lbs at least. This kind of weight saving actually makes a little difference on a small and light bike. Especially if you already have replaced other heavy-ish parts with lighter alternatives (Fenders, footpegs/ foot controls, handlebar, instruments, mirrors, exhaust system, headlight, etc)
while i love vape cdis, i run them in most of my bikes as i can, a well sorted stock ignition will keep plugs just fine as well. 0.02
Quote from: m in sc on April 20, 2025, 04:16:26 PMwhile i love vape cdis, i run them in most of my bikes as i can, a well sorted stock ignition will keep plugs just fine as well. 0.02
0.020" plug gap w/ stock coils ?
250/350 stock ignition:
Plug gap: 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028"), NGK B8HS
Note: Make sure you use short-reach (1/2") plugs when replacing, not the "ES" long-reach that is used in the 400.
Point gap: 0.3-0.4 mm (0.012-0.016"). Timing spec is 2.0mm BTDC, but it is recommended to reduce the advance slightly to around 1.8mm to compensate for today's fuel. I use 1.85 in all mine and always run premium.
Regarding batteries... I've been running SLA alarm units for many years (4Ah or 5Ah). The last ones I purchased were Mighty Max, which are available from Amazon or HD.
As mentioned above, just stick some foam pieces in around it to take up the extra space. If you have extra pipe insulation around, that dark gray stuff, it works well and it's waterproof.
Quote from: SoCal250 on April 20, 2025, 07:47:47 PM250/350 stock ignition:
Plug gap: 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028"), NGK B8HS
Note: Make sure you use short-reach (1/2") plugs when replacing, not the "ES" long-reach that is used in the 400.
Point gap: 0.3-0.4 mm (0.012-0.016"). Timing spec is 2.0mm BTDC, but it is recommended to reduce the advance slightly to around 1.8mm to compensate for today's fuel. I use 1.85 in all mine and always run premium.
1.85mm,w/ Ca. 91oct pump gas.. :thumbs: