There's not a lot of HPI install info I could find.
So this is what I went through for Mike's RD350.
He brought me his bike together but no wiring on the bike as the stock harness was taken off.
Mike did have everything mounted with the cdi and regulator.
I added lots of engine and frame grounds, then built a bare bones harness for just lights, brake lights, high and low headlight, charging system and tach power.
The hard part was where to set initial static timing as the HPI website showed setting it using a scale whether using clockwise or counter clockwise rotor rotation.
This was misleading for me...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/008230190_1-88a6b4af4b111ac75c8a9e14dd36b876.png)
Following those notes the timing was way off like *50-*60 degrees!
The proper static mark was to use the white hash mark on the left of the HPI logo for counter clockwise rotor direction.
I had to find this out by using a reversible 1/2 electric drill on the end of the crank to spin it to use my timing light.
(Engine smoked like crazy on the first startup due to me squirting oil in the intake to lube it good while doing this!)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191027_204425.jpg)
These pics is the pointer scribe mark with it set at 1.8mm BTDC.
I'll paint the rotor black next time as the chrome rotor was very hard to see when using the timing light! :eek:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191027_204433.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191027_204505.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191027_204511.jpg)
Like when I do a Vape/PD install I pull the clutch cover to use a adjustable wrench to hold the crank to torque the rotor bolt at 148" inch lbs with blue locktite.
Sorry that I didn't write down the rotor bolt length. I buy all my hardware from Belmetric.com. (http://belmetric.com.)
I used 7mm x 1 hardened bolt with 7mm hardened fender washer first then a 8mm hardened thick washer and a hardened 7mm lock washer.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191027_163039.jpg)
Mike mounted the regulator here and the CDI just under it.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192632.jpg)
Wiring loom and where Mike welded a ground lug for the grounds.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192636.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_191800.jpg)
Led lights
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192733.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192706.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192753.jpg)
Digital tach
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191026_192744.jpg)
First try at fire up...
(Engine smoked like crazy on the first startup due to me squirting oil in the intake to lube it good when I was using a drill to spin engine trying to establish a static time)
Also, I found the choke on the right new carb was stuck open just enough to still be on!! (I was wonder why it didn't sound perfect right off the bat as I'm accustomed to)
Video link:
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%20pre%20fire.mp4 (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%20pre%20fire.mp4)
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%201st%20fire%20hpi.mp4 (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%201st%20fire%20hpi.mp4)
Chuck,
what i did with mine was to set the market to the max advance it would see, then set the pickup to line up with that at 23 or so degrees (working of memory here). to match with the timing curve in the cdi unit, and one at 17? or so for initial reference . using the dial back timing light, i timed it at 5 k or so at the advance there and adjusted, it was close, just had to nudge it a bit.. luckily the timing plate is adjustable. I actually filmed the process doing it, but not sure where i put the movie file. It was sort of like doing an original H1 cdi ignition, which as you know timed it at >4k, running.
Yeah, still working with it.... not done yet.
When I was doing the timing and watching the curve go up and down...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/210_curve_210S100_210C130_full.png)
Following closely. I've got one on my bench ready for install.... :pop:
Quote from: m in sc on October 28, 2019, 11:35:48 AM
Chuck,
what i did with mine was to set the market to the max advance it would see, then set the pickup to line up with that at 23 or so degrees (working of memory here). to match with the timing curve in the cdi unit, and one at 17? or so for initial reference . using the dial back timing light, i timed it at 5 k or so at the advance there and adjusted, it was close, just had to nudge it a bit.. luckily the timing plate is adjustable. I actually filmed the process doing it, but not sure where i put the movie file. It was sort of like doing an original H1 cdi ignition, which as you know timed it at >4k, running.
This one that Mike has both plates are adjustable, unlike yours.
Will post up more tonight.
The next video is it running proper and sounds killer on my STG 1 Build!
yeah, i noticed that, the main mounting plate is adjustable. must've been a design change (in the right way), mines only adjustable on the sub plate, but i can get to it installed luckily with a ball nosed t handle.
this is good to point out if anybody has an 'older' one like i do.
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/hpi-cdi/project-ign2-pegs_03_zps5eelgf5e.jpg)
I was thinking of upgrading to this system. Waiting for the system to be back in stock. Emailed treatland about getting some more in stock for us.
As I was researching around on HPI website and other HPI info on the web, I had found HPI has other timing curve sets.
These are the other 2 I found...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_165051.jpg)
I don't think this curve is very different than the first one... I posted.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_165152.jpg)
This was a Degree Chart that m in sc found and was posted on the old forum.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/rddocumentstuff/huge/MMtoDEGREES%20RD350.jpg)
I had also made my own years ago and are very close.
I forgot to take a pic of my chart... :bang:
***NOTE*** Found my timing chart!!! :metal:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/rddocumentstuff/large/20191029_104544.jpg)
I wrote the markings down on the bike stand to scribe these timing lines on the flywheel to use the timing light on to
establish 24* degrees high point scribe.
A static scribe mark at 19* degrees and a 3rd one at 14* degrees.
AS you can see I taped up the chrome flywheel so this old guy can see these marks with the timing light...
(was way too hard to see lines the first time with all that chrome like I was in a house of mirrors!)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_174555.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_174542.jpg)
I did this with a dial indicator in the spark plug.
24* degrees = 2.84mm BTDC
19* degrees = 1.70mm BTDC
14* degrees = 1.00mm BTDC
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_191337.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_191312.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_191354.jpg)
If you look at this pic below...this is TDC, take note of the little hand on turn #4.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_191304.jpg)
In the very beginning when I was trying to find static timing of 1.7mm BTDC
I used a drill to spin the engine with the ignition on and a timing light with the spark plugs grounded out to generate spark... :metal:
I had to have a second person hold the timing light at the scribe marks...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_190040.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_185839.jpg)
Video of it spinning...
https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=37&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=37&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
Finally got to the point where we know we are with timing scribe marks and ready to time this HPI up...
Video link:
https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=38&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=38&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
As you can see the timing at idle is very close to the 19*, just over 19* maybe 20*.
Then just under the 24* scribe at about mid range (aprox 3000-3500 rpms) then I rev it out and it actually swings below the 14* scribe at high rpms, so that's like a soft rev limit when the timing dumps out like that.
We'll know more once we get it out on the road.
I want to thank Chuck for taking such good care of my bike. Looking forward to getting it back and actually riding it..
https://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BA035120.pdf
Here at the instructions for the gauge. your going to have to change the signal setting for the tach to read correctly. I was able to get a good reading with the dyna S. the hpi is probably putting out a different signal.
Quote from: turtle on October 29, 2019, 08:59:23 AM
I want to thank Chuck for taking such good care of my bike. Looking forward to getting it back and actually riding it..
https://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BA035120.pdf
Here at the instructions for the gauge. your going to have to change the signal setting for the tach to read correctly. I was able to get a good reading with the dyna S. the hpi is probably putting out a different signal.
I had texted Mike as the tach is reading at 3000 not 1500 like the dyna at 1 signal pulse per crank rev and now the HPI is a wasted spark at 2 signal pulse per crank rev.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_202134.jpg)
It sounds great! :clap: Starts very easy for a magneto! :toot:
Video link:
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191028_214026.mp4 (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191028_214026.mp4)
Because this is all new for me and most of you guys...my question is the charging system and the way I wired up the bike going to work well enough as it came?
Here's the wiring schematic that came with it.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_124613.jpg)
With this being a magneto it's like the vape/powerdynomo setup but much smaller and lighter.
The magneto runs the ignition and then the charge coils puts out the ac to the rectifier/voltage regulator to charge DC to the battery.
I have it wired as DC and using a battery.
I think it's going to be ok, just barely. It is rated for 60w? Maybe if it gets re wired to 2 wave charge?
I have it setup on single wave as they come at the stator. The purple and yellow are jumpered together just as the diagram shows.
It's a bit long...
With the lights on... it's maintaining 12.6v
With them off it goes up to 13.2v
I might recheck them with my fluke meter.
https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=19&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=19&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
that seems about right. its 60 w dc. drop an led tailight on it and you will have room to spare, but, it should be ok as it is.
not being familiar with the gauge, i used to have to set other digital gauges to a '4 cyl'. (automotive type bias).
tail light bulb is already an LED.
should be fine then. the amperage would be the issue, seems like its covered. you're going to love that ign, it revs so fast. :celebrate:
Where did you get that regulator? Is it a reg/rec?
Quote from: Czakky on October 29, 2019, 11:34:31 AM
Where did you get that regulator? Is it a reg/rec?
I had to order it separate from treatland... was around 70.00$$
Just spoke to Benji at treats today. He will be getting some more in a few weeks. Mentioned that its generating a lot of interest amongst this forum. He said that he is excited to hear that and will keep me posted on this.
i asked him to be a vendor, offered a section. he said not yet. :whistle:
Internet down...on my phone right now.
Mike,
If you can post part #'s of this cdi and the extra rectifier / regulator would be great!
Chuck
Treatland has some pretty good discounts too periodically with coupons they email you if you get on their mailing list. I joined a couple yrs ago when I purchased a couple of Honda MB5's but no longer have them (sold) but stayed on the mailing list. Can save you some good $ to use in other areas.
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on October 29, 2019, 07:22:05 PM
Internet down...on my phone right now.
Mike,
If you can post part #'s of this cdi and the extra rectifier / regulator would be great!
Chuck
surething!!!! let me dig up my invoice.
here are the links to the HPI products being used...
https://www.treatland.tv/HPI-CDI-mini-rotor-ignition-system-yamaha-RD350-p/hpi-yamaha-rd350-mini-rotor.htm ( CDI kit)
reg/rect setup...
https://www.treatland.tv/HPI-regulator-rectifier-p/hpi-regulator-rect-210v261.htm
:patriot:
Mike forgot to leave me a key to the gas tank and a licence plate to finish the tune...he mailing them and I get to finish next week.
Chuck
Well had to pick the tank lock and put my tag on it from my RD...(don't tell) to ride it Sunday! :celebrate:
Ready for the first ride...pipes were de-rusted with phosphoric acid, rinsed with water, immediately sprayed with WD40 then sanded with triple 000 steel wool, then washed with lacquer thinner and 3 coats of mop and glow to go and burn in.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_144238.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_173313.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_173254.jpg)
The jetting we had in it before now is too lean off the bottom for throttle response. I'm thinking with the rev's climbing much faster with this lightweight HPI rotor and the more aggressive advanced timing coming in as soon as you rev it up.
After a quick ride up the street the brakes were total crap!! :eek:
Pistons really crappy...used a new OEM Yamaha kit.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_181713.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_181832.jpg)
Needed to re-adjust the the clutch cable adjustment with a spacer in the cable holder to work with the motocross bearing clutch lever.
As with most of the shelf bought rearset assemblies the shifting linkage sucks on them!
So re-did it like I do on most of them.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191029_151402.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191029_164504.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191029_164507.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191029_172530.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191102_150610.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191102_150621_001.jpg)
Mike did have Nick's Dyna conversion CDI, but Mike left the key on one night and burn it up and is the reason for the HPI install.
Mike's stock carbs were too old and corroded to do anything with...so bought a pair of new VM28's and changed out to the primary needle jet conversion (VM28's come with bleed type like stock)
Started jetting: 210 main
35 pilot
169-P0 needle jet
5DP7-3 needle
2.0 air jet
2.5 std. slides
Was on 32:1 last year with the STG 1 engine build we did when the bike was built.
Then ran 40:1 after some tuning.
Banshee intake manifolds
YZ125 reeds (I think... have to look again)
TSR Barlow designed boost bottle
Uni pod filters (all foam)
Todays ride is on 50:1 premix on BelRay SI-7 2 stroke oil.
Changed out the pilots from 35's to 40's at 2 turns out on the air screw and bumped up the idle.
Used some competition brake pads and threw out those stupid anti-rattle shims! I want brakes... don't care if they are a little clicky, and don't want a spongy lever feel and the drag they have when using them!
Brake is 100% better and not even broke in all the way yet...
Still want to try dropping the needle one notch and going to a 42.5 pilot today.
The shifting work I did is TITS, may play with different hole settings, but really good as setup in the pics now.
Bike has 14-40 gearing and will have Mike go to a 39 rear as the motor pulls it no problem and needs a smaller sprocket to gain some pipe to chain clearance with these JL's.
Going to make a rearset spacer to move out the pipe mount just a little more for this issue.
DON'T buy china crap on ebay for the rear brake light switch...garbage!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191030_135226.jpg)
I missed dinner at home due to the late brake job at the last minute!
So out to Johnny's for Pizza dinner!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_203615.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_203714.jpg)
Still waiting on the kickstand relocation kit from HVC so have a taped towel on it.
It is all about your attention to detail that always blows me away Chuck. All the little things add up to one great running AND riding bike.
Love that 75 350 look/color.
sweet. so, how do you like the HPI overall then?
Dark out now after a brake job...
So time to check the LED's!
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191103_202604.mp4 (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191103_202604.mp4)
At Johnny's.
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191103_214357.mp4 (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191103_214357.mp4)
https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=71&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=71&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
Getting close on jetting...loved the 3rd gear power wheelies this RD350 did last night!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_220901.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_220912.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191103_220951.jpg)
More to come as I get to the finish on this one... :patriot: :righteous:
Chuck
Quote from: paul1478 on November 04, 2019, 10:20:10 AM
It is all about your attention to detail that always blows me away Chuck. All the little things add up to one great running AND riding bike.
Love that 75 350 look/color.
That's how I roll...
Quote from: m in sc on November 04, 2019, 10:24:23 AM
sweet. so, how do you like the HPI overall then?
So far really good. Need to do more riding using the headlight on high for like a 50-100 mile trip and see how the charging system keeps up, but running seems good there.
Have the plug gaps set at .022 using NGK 5K plug caps with std B8HS with no tip for those caps.
C
can we use 5K caps with BR8HS ?
Quote from: 2t Fan on November 04, 2019, 02:18:14 PM
can we use 5K caps with BR8HS ?
I haven't tried that yet.
C
Rained yesterday...didn't ride bike. Worked on it... I made a spacer for the left side rearset and pulled the carbs and changed
the pilot to a 42.5 and leaned the needle one position by raising the clip. (at the #2 clip from the top)
If and when I get done I can try a resistor BR8HS plug.
KOSO tach seems to be close now that it's programmed to #2 setting other than the shift light comes on too early
for this little Team Scream Racing STG 1 built engine!
C
Chuck, the shift light is adjustable on the Koso tach.. you can set it wherever you like. ;D :clap:
i had to run a br series plug & resistor cap with the mzb/zeel setup for a few years on the rd i have, to keep it from scrambling the box. I eventually fit a ferrite choke and was able to run with resistor caps/non resistor plugs. its definitely cleaner revving now, no reason to run both especially if its not scrambling the tach on that bike. Just my experience.
Well was out of town a couple of days and bad weather. I did get it out for a long ride and felt like I wasn't getting enough fuel to the carbs.
In these pics I mod the gas cap vent holes to double the air vent size.
Stock '75 RD350 cap
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_170705.jpg)
I slotted this piece.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_172203.jpg)
Drilled extra holes here on these two parts.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_172244.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_172224.jpg)
I also added handle bar kill switch and disconnected the stock made in china repop throttle/kill toggle switch as it was acting funny.
Need to take a pic...Forgot.
I took the stock petcock off and apart and peeled out all of the stock screens and just using so nice inline 1/4 Visu filters.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_190931.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_190940.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_191100_001.jpg)
The HVC kickstand kit came and modified it all up, heating and bending and heating more and finally got it to my liking then welded a toe stub on it. They're really no fun to do... as it takes about 2 hours to do and all of them are different due to pipes and frame height.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_190828.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_190913.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191113_190904.jpg)
Now a cold front came through today so I'll try again to ride in the next couple of days.
Nice work Chuck. I need to do that to my kickstand. it drags on hard left turns.
This is going to help me with my side stand.
Thanks
somebody needs to make a tubular replacement with a different bend for these. i did mine, wasn't that hard. :twocents:
I have seen yours. It is perfect. And yes I agree and would buy one today if I could find one.
Going to come back and add in the final take on how it all turned out...stay tuned.
(Look at what I went through with the JL pipe mod post.)
Chuck
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_135009_001.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_135024.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_135114.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_135136.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_135152.jpg)
I will let Chuck update his thread, but I wanted to say the experience was awesome. Went and picked up the bike today, Took at 30 min ride with Chuck and the bike is performing flawlessly. I've now had this bike for 5 yrs and for the first time I didn't have to worry about it breaking down while riding. To further add it's a complete beast and handles just a well. hats off to Chuck!!!! thanks again... :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Another satisfied customer. Enjoy! :whoop:
OK, I need to polish off this 'How To'.
After a hard U.S. 19 run all the way to bike night about 7 miles, I was just a bit concerned at plug color at highway speeds cruising at I'm guessing 70-75 mph with the tach pinned 6200-6300 (short gearing from before the build 14/40) Mike will go to a 520 conversion soon to a 14/39
I didn't like the 40 pilots either from earlier change, so changed the needle jet up to a 169-P2 from a P0 and put the 35 pilots back in.
So more riding still needed...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_194705.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191106_213719.jpg)
Took it out next time to the Local Yamaha shop I deal with and had most of the store out looking at it and listening to the healthy TSR engine build.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_132211.jpg)
Jetting seemed a little better so I went up again on the pilot to 37.5 @1 1/2 turns out on the air screws and needle jet up to a 169-P4.
Another ride across town :vroom: to my buddy's shop to see and hear his new blown BBC 522ci pro street car...
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_125230.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191115_125627.jpg)
Big power and little power in the same pic....about a 1000 HP difference!! :eek:
Man it liked all that fuel from the last change but a little muddy in the lower midrange... so lets go at the carbs again...
Pulled the needle jets and machined down the 169-P4 shroud from the stock 8.21mm height to 6.00mm so a minus of 2.21mm to help this area of richness and took out the 2.0 air jet also to help overall stronger fuel curve up top right before the main jet
His old carbs were all crappy high tops so went with new std VM28's.
OK, let me explain why so much jetting work is needed on this little rascal...
When Mike first started trying to get this RD running right 18 months ago he sent me the topend to do a stg 1 setup on it.
(stg 1 porting, mill the cylinders for the 400 headgasket conversion, remachine the heads completely with a better chamber design and compression ratio, and re-condition the reed cages and used Tony's TDR YZ125 reed petals)
I had to bore them all the way to 65.00mm as the old bore was really wasted, one reason it didn't run good.
After boring the cylinders I put them on my mockup engine and put a degree wheel to check porting as it was messed with before as it was already at 64.25mm bore, so a clue it wasn't stock.
Here's a mock up pic of the port mapping I was doing on my mockup engine with my degrees wheel.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180327_190352.jpg)
This is when we discovered it was a bit high for my liking but we decided we could make it still work as it was planned to be a Saturday night special anyways, so I went to town on a pretty aggressive port job to save the cylinders.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180520_191859.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180520_191943.jpg)
Heads were re-cut to match...after mock up his heads they had way too high of compression ratio after someone cut the crap out of them before and now with the 65mm bore it was like 13.5:1! :bang:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180523_200539.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180523_203150.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20180523_202538.jpg)
Now here we are 1 1/2 years later...fairly aggressive porting, new JL pipes that are a bit aggressive... the dyna dead and in the trash from leaving the key on, and a new HPI with a aggressive curve makes for a rowdy Pro mod street bike so you have to put in the tune it wants and needs to run on pump gas *93 at 50:1 ester based premix.
Now your up to speed...
So time for a last run to see if I'm good at what I do... :vroom:
Put in a 220 main jet just to help with the cold front as it's in the low 50's in Florida now this week
Did a St. Pete run of 45 miles and 3 miles from the shop the pipe joint burned out so the JL pipe mod post was started
to put an end to that crappy design!
See Here: http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1221.0 (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1221.0)
Oh man did it run good! :toot:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191117_101736.jpg)
So final jetting ended up @ on VM28's with Uni's, B9HS plugs gapped at .022 until it warms up and then back to the B8HS plugs, NGK 5k caps (on one of the runs I used BR8HS and was fine on them too @.022)
220 main jet
37.5 pilot jet 1 5/8 turns out
169-P4 needle jet with cut shroud to 6.00mm
no air jet
5DP7-3 needle (middle clip)
stock 2.5 slide cutaway
Timing is set like in the early posts. No changes needed.
(note: I like a high idle on this kind of setup so you can sit in traffic with no running or fouling issues. :righteous:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191117_114508.jpg)
HPI video rip...
https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=164&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=164&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
Chuck
The only thing I'll add is I recommend to Mike is to get a small .75 or 1 amp battery tender with a pigtail lead and keep the battery plugged in at home in the garage up as much as possible as the system is very close to keeping up if he runs the high beam a lot for night riding.
I'm going to guess to say it will run 2 tanks of fuel before the battery goes below 11 volts with lights on high beam.
Mind you this doesn't have any effect on the running of the bike and if you have a chance of turning off the lights it cranks up the charging back up over 13.2v.
C
can't they design a magnet/stator combo to throw 80 to 90W
I'm sure something more can be done...
Need to re-wire for 2 ac charge wires from the stator. As came from HPI, it's only running 1 ac charge wire from stator.
Hopefully I'll have a chance to do that soon. Bracket Maker (Ben) is really good at that stuff so maybe he can help me on the next one...
Chuck
disconnect the one winding ground, run that up to the main wiring coming out of it, run that wire and the original lightning to a 2 wire regulator. its super easy to do. then, you get full wave ac with more than enough power :twocents:
Quote from: rd400canuck on December 10, 2019, 10:05:02 PM
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on December 05, 2019, 08:42:22 AM
On the HPI, I would do the charge coil mod as Mark said, disconnect the charge coil ground and connect to a new wire lead to run out to REC/REG as a 2nd charge leg. I think they come too close to being enough charging as they come out of the box with only a single charge wire setup.
Chuck
Can you point me to where the mod was talked about?
All I think you have to do is un-ground the charge coil lead on the backside of the stator and connect a new wire lead to run up with the rest of the wires and use it a for a 2nd input lead at the rec/reg so you now have 2 ac wave leads instead of 1 like I did on Mikes setup.
If you see in this pic 2 leads off the rec/reg are tied together as a purple and a yellow then connected to the single yellow lead the HPI came with.
Now that you just ran a 2nd lead, now unsplit the tied in purple wire and connect to the new lead you just made and now you have 2 ac leads into the rec/reg. Simple I think...
DC diagram on the left is the one your looking at.
Chuck
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_124613.jpg)
THAT IS CORRECT
Guys see if I have this right. I am not so good at electrical.
Unground stator......So disconnect 4th winding from the ground and run and new wire up the harness. This new wire will connect to Purple wire from R/R (reference above pic from Chuck, the R/R from HPI)
Yellow wire from stator to yellow wire on HPI R/R.
Red wire from R/R to battery.
Black from R/R to frame ground.
CDI orange to Coil.
CDI and Coil grounds to Frame.
CDI black/white...?
Orange and gray wiring harness (previously connected to coils) no longer used.
Red and white wire from harness....no longer used?
Thanks, just want to make sure I get this right.
Quote from: CASADEHUSKER on December 18, 2019, 03:38:22 PM
Guys see if I have this right. I am not so good at electrical.
Unground stator......So disconnect 4th winding from the ground and run and new wire up the harness. This new wire will connect to Purple wire from R/R (reference above pic from Chuck, the R/R from HPI) YES
Yellow wire from stator to yellow wire on HPI R/R. YES
Red wire from R/R to battery. YES, connect on positive post with the stock red fused 12v wire.
Black from R/R to frame ground. YES, and make a jumper eyelet wire from frame ground point and to case bolt on engine for added engine ground. I also make a 2nd eyelet wire from frame ground connection to the negative post
CDI orange to Coil. YES, stator harness plugs into cdi unit
CDI and Coil grounds to Frame. YES
CDI black/white...? To be used as a kill wire for coil, connect to a toggle switch then to frame ground connection or kill button that then goes to frame ground connection for closed to ground for engine kill. Like a dirtbike button. You can also wire in a bosch 5 pin relay to run on the stock ignition switch.
Orange and gray wiring harness (previously connected to coils) no longer used. Not used
Red and white wire from harness....no longer used? That is the 12v hot with the stock key to power dc battery coils. Not used with toggle for kill or button for kill. Will be used if you install a bosch 5 pin relay like the Powerdynomo/Vape cdi does.
Thanks, just want to make sure I get this right.
Answers in
BLACKChuck
Powerdydnomo/Vape wiring PDF
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400//icons/72xr102.pdf.jpg (https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400//icons/72xr102.pdf.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400//icons/72xr102.pdf.jpg)
Look at the 5 pin relay and the Vape coil kill wire is bl (blue on the coil)
Its a black with white stripe on the HPI, but will wire up the same.
PD/Vape diagram is in Euro wire colors on the relay...
br (brown) is ground, You can do them in black to frame ground connection.
The sw (black) wound be the 12v red w/white stripe coil wire from the harness where the old coils were fed with 12v, now will go to the relay for 12v power switching.
Just connect to the proper terminal #'s on the relay as shown.
I'll try to explain more later, as it's way, way past my bedtime...
Chuck
I appreciate the guidance.
Thank you
So do we have to do a separate kill switch or can we just wire into the stock On/Off switch on the bars.
Not sure it will matter but I should have told you I am working on a 1978 RD400.
You wire in a relay to the normally closed contact to the ignition/kill switch. A magneto is grounded to kill it. You can wire it however you want either kill switch or ignition switch.
Quote from: CASADEHUSKER on December 19, 2019, 05:18:40 PM
So do we have to do a separate kill switch or can we just wire into the stock On/Off switch on the bars.
Not sure it will matter but I should have told you I am working on a 1978 RD400.
OH Poo, you missed my point! I need to get better.... :eek:
Re-Read what I said....I added relay.
Red and white wire from harness....no longer used? That is the 12v hot with the stock key to power dc battery coils. Not used with toggle for kill or button for kill.
RELAY Will be used if you install a bosch 5 pin relay like the Powerdynomo/Vape cdi does.
Also I should have said...if wanting to use the stock wiring and ignition key setup...to use a relay wired in as I showed.
Sorry...
Chuck
No, you did great Chuck.
Was probably past my bedtime also and I missed the RELAY.
Thanks
hey chuck should I update my wiring for better charging or leave it alone.
I've had my HPI up and running on my RD400 for 4 years now. It has performed perfect.
Anybody know the thread pitch of the crank bolt that holds the rotor?
My bolt is too long and not threaded enough to just cut it down.
7mm x 1 is the RD crank Mag side threads.
Some Ace hardware has them, no lowes or home depot.
I buy all my Metric hardware here...
https://www.belmetric.com/ (https://www.belmetric.com/)
C
Quote from: turtle on December 21, 2019, 02:29:25 PM
hey chuck should I update my wiring for better charging or leave it alone.
If your not having the battery run down too much, just leave it. If your going to add more lighting or more power drawing items like more lighting, a phone charger, then yes.
Your bike is pretty light on battery load, so that's a good thing.
You will have to pull ignition stator out, then retime as well to do this mod.
Chuck
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on December 22, 2019, 11:27:19 AM
I buy all my Metric hardware here...
https://www.belmetric.com/ (https://www.belmetric.com/)
C
Good recommendation. Belmetric is awesome!
Stupid question. How do you know which side of the coil you're timing?
My understanding is that both sides fire..........so doesn't matter. But probably best to wait for a response from an expert,
I just checked with a swift couple kicks and a timing gun. Yup either side
single coil dual lead = wasted spark, always.
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on October 28, 2019, 10:47:02 AM
Sorry that I didn't write down the rotor bolt length. I buy all my hardware from Belmetric.com. (http://belmetric.com.)
I used 7mm x 1 hardened bolt with 7mm hardened fender washer first then a 8mm hardened thick washer and a hardened 7mm lock washer.
How important is the hardened part of that bolt? I realized I have an 8.8/standard bolt.
BTW bolt length is 35mm, fwiw.
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on October 28, 2019, 08:29:17 AM
There's not a lot of HPI install info I could find.
So this is what I went through for Mike's RD350.
He brought me his bike together but no wiring on the bike as the stock harness was taken off.
Mike did have everything mounted with the cdi and regulator.
I added lots of engine and frame grounds, then built a bare bones harness for just lights, brake lights, high and low headlight, charging system and tach power.
The hard part was where to set initial static timing as the HPI website showed setting it using a scale whether using clockwise or counter clockwise rotor rotation.
any chance you could draw up the "bare bones" wiring diagram? i've been tryin to get nick's ignition to work with the oregon motorcycle parts r/r without any luck. just got the hpi from treats. so i figure on wiring from scratch. also is it possible to run the hpi without a battery?
d3rf
Shouldn't be a problem running batteryless.
m in sc runs his HPI with AC bulbs and no battery.
Maybe he has a diagram?
Chuck
On my R5 I'm running no battery. Plain old LED bulbs work.
running led bulbs on mine, just using a trailtech voltage regulator. I floated ground on the unit, so 2 ac leads out. both legs to each leg of the voltage regulator, no rectifier. one of those legs goe sup front powers the headlight and brake and speedometer. othe rleg goes back and powers the tail light. I run nothing else on the bike, been fine for well over a year.
will say, one of the led headlights burned out immediately (had the internal fan), but the last one has been fine (no fan). must just be manufacturing differences.
Quote from: m in sc on March 15, 2020, 11:12:42 AM
running led bulbs on mine, just using a trailtech voltage regulator. I floated ground on the unit, so 2 ac leads out. both legs to each leg of the voltage regulator, no rectifier. one of those legs goe sup front powers the headlight and brake and speedometer. othe rleg goes back and powers the tail light. I run nothing else on the bike, been fine for well over a year.
will say, one of the led headlights burned out immediately (had the internal fan), but the last one has been fine (no fan). must just be manufacturing differences.
Thanks for that. Looks like I got the wrong regulator maybe. Mine only has a brown and a yellow. Got it on the bench now. Seems pretty straight forward. Orange from cdi to coil pack. plug to plug from stator. Black/white to kill switch. Yellow is for lights. Correct? Also the soldered joints on the back of the stator are epoxied over. Whats a good somewhat stylish kill switch? Did a quick look and nothing caught my eye. What would be the best regulator?
that's the one i have.
however, one goes to the yellow, other goes to the other leg of the ac coming out after you float the ground on the back of the cdi unit.
the wire that is on the back of the unit that is held down with an eyelet? you need to unground that and run that wire up to the other leg of the regulator. this gives 2 ac leads out of the unit.
Quote from: m in sc on March 15, 2020, 08:22:21 PM
that's the one i have.
however, one goes to the yellow, other goes to the other leg of the ac coming out after you float the ground on the back of the cdi unit.
the wire that is on the back of the unit that is held down with an eyelet? you need to unground that and run that wire up to the other leg of the regulator. this gives 2 ac leads out of the unit.
so the unit i have has the black wire with an eyelet (that joins the blue and white in the plug) under one of the allens that mount the windings to the plate. then there's a bare wire from a winding soldered to that black wire.
thanks for all the help
Quote from: m in sc on November 18, 2019, 09:23:23 AM
disconnect the one winding ground, run that up to the main wiring coming out of it, run that wire and the original lightning to a 2 wire regulator. its super easy to do. then, you get full wave ac with more than enough power :twocents:
so in my case disconnect the bare wire and solder on a new yellow wire and do a 2 to 1 bullet connector to the yellow from the reg. and brown is power out?
just looked a the trail tech instr. wire one yellow to yellow the other yellow to the brown and put switches in-line?
yes, one ac lead to each leg of the regulator. do not connect the 2 leads coming out of the unit to each other.
i assume you aren't running a battery? if you are, thats a different story.
Yeah the plan is to run without a battery. Thanks for verifying the connections Mark. I feel much better moving forward with this now. Basically want to run head light, tail light and brake light connected to both the front master cylinder switch and the rear brake switch and kill switch.
I'll add another thing I've found with running no battery.
I was blowing brake lights pretty quick and unable to find a short (fresh wiring mostly) I found that the Trail Tech reg was putting out atleast 18.5v A/C on my digital meter. Could be more as digital meters don't react as fast as analog meters in this situation. Anyway the Trail Tech reg is adjustable and I turned it down to 14v max. It doesn't seem to effect low RPM voltage output (where it matters) and I don't ride this bike in the dark very often.
My theory as to why the brake light would blow and nothing else is that under a high RPM stop there is a sudden inrush of voltage, too much for the diodes to deal with being having not seen any juice for a while.... feel free to shoot holes in my theory as I'm ok with electricity but have no experience with LEDs.
Quote from: Czakky on June 20, 2020, 11:30:31 AM
I'll add another thing I've found with running no battery.
I was blowing brake lights pretty quick and unable to find a short (fresh wiring mostly) I found that the Trail Tech reg was putting out atleast 18.5v A/C on my digital meter. Could be more as digital meters don't react as fast as analog meters in this situation. Anyway the Trail Tech reg is adjustable and I turned it down to 14v max. It doesn't seem to effect low RPM voltage output (where it matters) and I don't ride this bike in the dark very often.
My theory as to why the brake light would blow and nothing else is that under a high RPM stop there is a sudden inrush of voltage, too much for the diodes to deal with being having not seen any juice for a while.... feel free to shoot holes in my theory as I'm ok with electricity but have no experience with LEDs.
def makes sense. they tend to take being under supplied better than being over supplied with voltage.
:clap:Just wanted to say thank you for everyone with their input on this matter. Super helpful with my installation of the ignition and the lighting situation. :clap:
QuoteAll I think you have to do is un-ground the charge coil lead on the backside of the stator and connect a new wire lead to run up with the rest of the wires and use it a for a 2nd input lead at the rec/reg so you now have 2 ac wave leads instead of 1 like I did on Mikes setup.
If you see in this pic 2 leads off the rec/reg are tied together as a purple and a yellow then connected to the single yellow lead the HPI came with.
Now that you just ran a 2nd lead, now unsplit the tied in purple wire and connect to the new lead you just made and now you have 2 ac leads into the rec/reg. Simple I think...
DC diagram on the left is the one your looking at.
Chuck
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/large/20191028_124613.jpg)
I was having some charging issues when I was riding yesterday. Figured out that i was only pumping out 2v DC at idle and 6v DC max. I am only running one AC wire (yellow) that is split into two wires to a rect/regulator. I am trying to find the other winding of the coil as stated in the quote and only can find out with is attached to a black wire with a piece of silver wire and some solder on it. I am not sure if it is the correct wire. It looks like it is already attached to the wiring harness via the black wire.
(https://i.ibb.co/BL6wJ1N/118037602-327578621694219-4359134069196154999-n.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/xgNXPvW/Inked117709372-640995513211827-5347167908001671529-n-LI.jpg).
(https://i.ibb.co/LZ0NzBr/117870497-1201283626900619-763323693664162205-n.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/P1XB25W/117545744-1646022818906011-6890017287753514742-n.jpg)
Figured out my charging issue. Decided to get the ATV 150cc full wave R/R to fix my issue (thanks for that tip). I thought I had a full wave one but apparently it was a half wave one...it was only pumping 6 volts. I even tried the route of going from AC to DC with put prong rectifier, then jumping to my trail tech regulator but it would not down my volts and would just blow up my fuses. Not sure what happened but the bike will charge my battery and allow me to run my relay, DC accessories, and not blow up my bulbs! :)