I know this was covered many times on the old board but since I can't search that, I thought I'd start a new thread.
RD350 with ported OEM cylinders, YZ85 reeds, Banshee cross linked inlets, 6mm spacers, RD400 head gaskets, stock 28mm carbs, JL stainless pipes, Y boot with tall K&N filter, DYNA ignition.
Carbs have been stripped and cleaned and drilled and tapped to take air jets. I am thinking as a starting point (should be on the safe side)
Main jets: 220
Needle: 5DP7-3
Needle Jet: 169 P-2
Pilot jet: 32.5
Air jet: 2.0
I read Dale Alexander said that he cut the spray bar down to 2mm but I didn't see that mentioned in a copy of the Dave F instructions. I am pretty sure that I saw Chuck Q recommend that in the past and he knows what works.
Any thoughts, comments or recommendations?
Thanks
When I did this it was between 1.5 and 2mm.
I believe it's 2mm for a 400.
Hopefully supertune can verify
We are at about the same elevation so you should be pretty close except for the P-2 NJ. So far every 250/350 I've done that mod to I've ended up with P-0 NJs. Even on my 350 with big bodied VM30s and other not so mild mods i use P-0s in those carbs too.
Thanks. TZ's use O-8 so P-0 makes sense. I decided to start rich because it's not my bike and a couple of jets are cheaper than rebuilding it again. I'll order a pair of P-0s.
Interesting that the R5 used O-0 but without reeds I would expect more reversion and more fuel as a result, so with a reed motor, slightly richer needle jet seems logical.
I have read somewhere P-0 for RD350's and P-2 for RD400's.
T, I use 169-P2's and cut the spray shroud 1.7mm.
210's on the mains will about right.
I always start with 35 pilots on Spec II PIPES.
I'm usually also using my TSR/Barlow boost bottle/Banshee manifolds and yz125 reed petals on the stock cages.
So your on the right track. Don't cut the PO's if you use them.
5DP7--2 or 3 is good on a 2.0 airjet.
Chuck at the races at Bloomingdale, Ga (Roebling Road Raceway) this weekend... 8)
Much appreciated input. Thanks everyone. I figure that the more I learn, the more I need to reach out, to add to that learning. Can never have too much information. I really want to err on the side of rich and safe because in my experience, RDs stick most often at part throttle - especially after they have just been run hard. That's why I am starting with P-2s. They have 7% more annular area at low to mid throttle which drops to 1% different at WOT.
Good luck at the races Chuck.
BTW, did I understand that as cut down P-2 spray bar but if I use P-0 leave it full Mikuni height. That's interesting. Tall spray bar gets relatively richer than a short one as revs rise if I understand what Mikuni has to say on the subject. P-2 is richer so give it a short spray bar to reduce how much richer it gets as revs rise. P-0 is slightly leaner so leave it full height to get relatively richer as revs rise. That makes sense but I had never thought to try such a subtle change to clean up mid range. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.