I've been working on and off on this 1970 R5 for about a year and have been meaning to start a thread. I've got a bunch of progress steps and some learnings along the way. Here it was the day I got it.
I follow this up with a bunch of progress but I did want to ask a wiring question, the second image is highlights the RD diagram and the one connection that I cannot track down, it the Female potion that says it is coming from the Hi Beam lamp? Am I missing something, it does not seem to exist thought the make portion is there from the headlamp. Is there something different from the RD and R5 for this? I figured I would ask before I take the headlight on my Rd apart because it is always a pain to get back in. Thanks!
thats just powers the high beam indicator. on the rd its in the gauge cluster, on an r5, its on the top of the headlight bucket.
Perfect, that also explains the hole in the headlight bucket now that I think about it :haw:
Thanks for the help, it was driving me nuts.
Some notes on fork rebuilding that I learned the hard way on the R5. I have done a good amount of all different types of forks but these were the worst condition and gave me a run for my money. I did learn a few things that may be common knowledge for others but I thought I'd share.
When super crusty the caps are a pain to get off, after trying many other things I got a good tip on the rubber strap wrench. I have a ton of tools and never used one but it worked perfect.
Next, as you can see in the pics these seals were rotted in there. Even with a seal remover it would have damaged the fork. The side lip of your generic motorcycle lift (harbor Freight) is the perfect height to wedge your seal tool against to remove stuck seals.
one more, a baby bottle cleaner on a stick works great for cleaning out the inside of grimey forks...
I bought the bike in a few pieces and originally planned to just put back together and get it running with some new tires.
It failed the leak down so I replaced all the seals, with the R5 engine I tried to avoid splitting the cases and replaced the crank seals in place. Needed a good cleaning but the top end looked pretty good, bad news came once I finished and tried the leak down again... Still not holding air, I ended up finding a pin hole in the left side case. Looks like bottom end issues....
Somewhere around this point I realized I wasn't going to get away with a cheap runner. If I was going to spend some money I might as well take it down to the frame and re do it.
it leaked out of the case? wow thats a new one. good catch.
Yea, I figured I just didn't get a good seal when I Yamabonded in the LH crank seal. I could hear the air but nothing was coming from the seal. I got more aggressive with soapy water and sure enough it was coming from that small nic in the case.
So at this point I was up against figuring out what went bad in the bottom end and caused the hole in the case.
Another option I had was to buy a ~150 mile RD motor rebuilt by a friend on here with new crank but needed at least a piston from a leaky manifold. We'll see if I can get away with just a fresh hone. That's where I'm at now, I bought that engine I had my shop hone the cylinder and I have a fresh piston on the way. I'll use the R5 side covers as I repainted them already.
I've also got the frame done, (bead blasted and painted) wheels, tires and rear shocks.
Wire harness cleaned up and back on, cheepo wire covers worked well
New Coils and a Ricks reg/rec
Quick update. Got my care package from John. New piston, manifolds and kickstand relo.
Also picked up my cylinder and check gaps and fit. Looks pretty good for just a fresh hone.
Flushed out the crank and starting to fit the engine. Hope to have the top end back together tonight
Finally finished my front fender brackets and got the cheapo ebay fender mounted. I'm embarrassed to admit how long the brackets took to get right but it came out pretty good for $23
Also mounted up the seat and fender that I had laying around, the bike didn't come with a seat and the fender is in bad shape and I'm not paying to re-chrome it. I'll probably put a real fender on at some point but the MX style one didn't come out terrible, its actually starting to grow on me. The seat I acquired with another bike, not sure what it is but the pan is made of 1/4 in steel and took a while to get the cut out right to fit over the rear of the frame.
Also got my JSpooner rearsets in the mail today, thank again Joe, they look great!
Getting Closer, Rearsets mounted. Top end back together and R5 side covers mounted.
Next to test the electrical and do another leakdown.
Side note, when you lend your power drills out, a 20V dewalt is not a sufficient replacement for tapping holes (notice the smoke) an M9 does work to hold the square end of the tap to use an impact. Probably not the best method but it worked.
i know people that do that all the time, still makes me nervous. I always hand tap with an actual tap handle, even have a ratcheting one i've had for years, but will chase an existing thread with a drill on rare occasion.
Bikes looking great BTW :clap:
Thanks! You are correct and I probably should have, unfortunately I didn't have the right drill bit for the tap and didn't want to run to the store so it was going to need a bit more force. If the tap pulled through I knew I have the option of just bolting them on from the back so there wasn't too much risk. Also I normally would have ordered the right tool and waited but I find I'm becoming more impatient on this one.
Some progress updates, Leak Down: I have been using the kit from HVC, it works well however the last time I used it I left the freeze plugs fully tightened and ruined the rubber. Fortunately I actually work for the auto parts manufacturer that makes the freeze plugs that are used in the kit and just ordered in some new ones. (if anyone else is in this situation or just needs to know what the correct ones are for sealing up the exhaust let me know and I can help out)
Once I got the exhaust sealed up Ive been chasing leaks, one of the heads I was planning on using seems to have an issue so I have to use the heads from my original R5 engine. With that sealed up I still was having a small air leak and struggled to find it as wasn't from the top end. Finally I hear it, there was a small hole in the boost bottle... That could have been part of the issue with this engine in the first place. Ill switch over the cross over tube from my RD tonight to see if that fixes it.
Also picked up some pretty rough FPPs and working on bringing them back to life.. They have had a rough go and some pretty bad patch jobs but they are cleaning up ok. Dropping them off to a friend to see if he can fix the patch job and a small hole. I was planning to use a new set of DG that I picked up cheap on this bike as it was going to have a stock R5 engine but now with the ported RD I think these will be much better. The set I have on my RD work great with good mid range and top end pull
Can anyone share what pressure they run on a leak down test? I have read that 2 strokes should hold 6-7PSI for 6 minutes but with the set up I have that seems excessive. 6PSI would be over 300mmHg and would be the max my gauge reads, I am finally getting the engine to hold vacuum with the new cross over and I don't want to blow a seal out by over pressuring trying to identify any final small leaks?
Thanks!
the typical test is 6psi for 6 minutes
Are the FPP stingers short like this from new? Mine are also short but I wondered if they had been cut down. These appear to be early examples.
Are the silencers a functional extension? Most other pipes have longer stingers.
Is there any value to extending them and using shorter silencers?
IR8D8R
Both sets I have are the same with the small stingers. Its an interesting question on how this impacts overall performance and I would guess part of why FPPs are not considered to be in the same realm as the Spec 2 and JL pipes along with the fact that there is not as much overall volume.
I'm sure more experienced folks on here would be able to say how longer stingers would impact the functionality. I personally have licked the drive-ability of them with decent mid range and still a good top end punch.
they are all like that. they work really well. theres a correlation between stinger length , silencer diameter, and length.
Got it together with DGs for now and got it fired up!!. Thanks to some keen advise as I originally had the coils wired backwards. I can confirm that it is incorrect in the wiring diagram, Orange should be Left, Grey=Right :bang:
Carbs needed adjusting to sync them but overall it ran...
Nice!!! ;D :clap: :cheerleader:
Am I nosy? I always see the cool stuff in the background of photos. Fine looking stable you have there, and congratulations on the startup!
Congrats! Success :clap:
Quote from: 85RZwade on June 12, 2020, 03:43:30 PM
Am I nosy? I always see the cool stuff in the background of photos. Fine looking stable you have there, and congratulations on the startup!
Ha, I do the same thing... I like getting ideas from everyone else's set ups. Mines a work in progress, moved in almost 2 years ago, it was easier to move the house than the garage 8)
Some progress on the FPPs. My buddy worked magic on a terrible previous weld and got them all fixed up. Add some high temp primer and PJ paint.
I am going to try to shorten some Chepo Ebay silencers, still waiting on a replacement one as one of the first they sent was not assembled correctly.
In the mean time I decided to polish the original FPP silencers and they are coming out pretty nice, ill run them for now to see how it looks.
After messing around with different set ups I ended up going with a set of JLs. I've wanted to try them as they look and sound the part. The one question I'm stuck on is how much should I worry about oil blow by around the flanges? No matter how many times i try I have never been able to stop it on either RD on 5 different pipe set ups. I always try rtv but I can never seem to get it clean enough or sealed. I do let it cure over 24 hours. Can it hurt anything from an air leak perspective or is it just a mess?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Go to the vendor section, Garrett has some nice flanges that will alleviate that. I'd take those FPP's off your hands if you don't want them anymore!...........................D
Thanks, I have seen those and Garret does great work, that could be a long term solution but for now I'm curious if it causes any other issues other than a mess.
Also thanks for the offer but I'm going to hang on to the FPPs, it's funny though the issue I had with them in the first place was the flanges and I have been planning to reach out Garret for those as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk