Guess I should start a build thread. '76 RD semi-basket case. A roller with engine in frame and a BIG tub of parts. Already ordered 98% of the rest that I'll need (hopefully). It is Chappy Red but I plan to repaint Geneva Green and call her Geneva. She has been setting in a storage shed (in the dry by all evidence, but housing a critter family) for abut 20 years in Ohio. I bought her in Columbus fro a guy that buys old bikes. I had a brand new '76 that I sold in '79 just before getting out of the Navy. I've been rescuing Honda GL1000s and a CB750F the past few years, but always wanted another RD.
Today I took in the paperwork to get a new title (old one lost many years ago) and transfer the tags from a GL1000 that i sold yesterday. I had pulled the master cylinders apart yesterday so today I cleaned and reassembled them. New calipers came in and I trial mounted them. They are repops, and the front needs a little shaving to run straight on the disk.
Disconnected all the tubes from the oil tank, drained a couple ounces of oil out (20 year old and still flowing?), and put some isopropyl alcohol in it that drained out through the supply line fairly easy. I'll still put a camera down in there to inspect the screen.
Plan is to 98% restore and make her a warm weather daily rider for next summer.
Failed leak-down. Leak is between the right crank seal and the lower case. Did a compression test with just a dribble of oil in the plug holes and intake. 110 psi both sides. Looks like she will have to come all the way apart.
Engine out of frame, one head (left) and jug off. Piston looks new, head spotless, but the cylinder is shiny top and bottom with surface rust in the port area. New piston (.25 over) installed without honing? Will do the measurements over the next few days. A lot on to-do list preparing for a motorcycle/bicycle/craft show at our church in one month. Also a week's beach vacation this month.
Sounds like life getting in the way of motorcycling! Put a clean rag over the top; it'll be there when you get back (I tell myself that often).
Ok, all the way apart now. Transmission all looks good. Some sludge in the bottom of the case, but I guess that is expected. Everything feels smooth and shifts smooth. Shift forks look barely worn on contact points, and show no bend.
The case was glued together with some king of grey RTV. There wasn't any in the transmission, but the crankcase had bits of it everywhere. The crank - I have no confidence in it. I have no experience with bearings that spin that fast. Electric motors with grease lubricated bearings, yes. And, these would be rejected then. Seems these should feel tighter, and be silent when I spin the crank with the rods. Instead, there is a constant whir. The outside left main sounds fine the right is noisy, I can't really tell on the centers.
So.... Who are reliable crank rebuilders in the USA? And although this is almost a moot point - about how much does it cost?
Pictures after lunch!
It won't let me post photos.
Chuck Q does cranks. I'm guessing during race season he's probably pretty busy.
Lyn Garland was doing them in Georgia, but his Facebook hasn't been updated since 2015.
Lyn is on here, maybe he'll chime in. GRA two strokes does 'em, but he is out here in Washington. Tony Doukas, Ed Ehrlenbach, Scott Clough, Ed Toomey all come to mind as possibilities. I think Chris was making fixtures to do his own crank, IIRC.
Ed Toomey has messaged me on Facebook. Presently waiting for a contact from a club member here.
I have an email out to Lyn Garland. He was highly recommended by a local club member who races RDs.
I can recommend Lynn..
The crank was posted to Lyn at noon today. Now, we wait and start on the frame. But, I am in no hurry.
Lyn has the crank finished and will be sending it back this week. New development: seat that I ordered from Vietnam came in today! Quickly transfered bumpers and such over to it, then took a ~150 mile ride because the weather is too good to be working on motorcycles. Must be riding them. Took the '06 GL1800 as it hasn't seen much use this summer, and temperature was much better today.
can you send a photo of the seat? I am always looking for a new seat.
Quote from: paul1478 on September 22, 2020, 08:31:08 AM
can you send a photo of the seat? I am always looking for a new seat.
Maybe in a few days. I've already mounted everything from the old seat to it, wrapped it back up and stashed it away. Doesn't look fantastic - looks like a $180 seat, not a $360 seat. But, will do for my purposes.
Well, this happened today. Also showing a method I use for removing the center stand spring easily. Spring hooks are great for light springs, but I've been taking them off of CB750s and GL1000s. I am afraid that the center stand isn't coming off, though - the center stand pivot seems rusted into one piece. Presently soaking in penetrant. Discovered one fork spring missing yeah! Ordered a pair of used ones on ebay. Not looking for fantastic performance so they should be fine. Next comes the degreasing and preparation for paint.
After about four days soaking with a gallon of Evaporust, I drained the gas tank, rinsed, and dried it followed by spraying the inside with fogging oil. Now the Evaporust is in a plastic tub with the rear sprocket, washers, etc. soaking in it.
No photos today, but the RD400 case mating surfaces are cleaned up (about six hour's work) and the transmission installed and tested that it shifts (one hour's work). Tomorrow the crank goes in!
Moving along nicely! It's a good feeling when all those gears are in there and the thing actually shifts!
Case mated. Did some cleaning on the frame and parts while waiting for wrist pins and clips. Took the frame to a car wash, sprayed it with Gunk, then oven cleaner, then hit it with the soap wand and rinse wand. It shows evidence of having paint over rust (not real bad, but that's never good) as well as paint over the headstock label and rear Brake Fluid label (probably others, but that's all I can find). Thumbnail brought them both semi-legible. Did a little abrasive wheel work and more scrubbing. Primed a few spots on the frame, and primed and painted (first coat) the footpeg mount, pillion peg mounts, and swing arm. I'm sure the swingarm welds are good, but what did they use, a Harbor Freight AC flux core MIG? That's much more weld spatter than I've ever seen on factory welds, even Hondas.
More removing rust that was painted over. Nothing deep or extensive, but to an old Navy nuc, you never pretty-paint over rust. With the frame flipped upside-down, I got to ~80% of it, wiped it down with acetone and isopropyl, then sprayed with etching primer. Ran out of that, but have two cans coming from Amazon tomorrow. I won't do anymore cleaning until the primer is here to prevent flas rust. Have found that the most effective for this is an 80 grit nylon abrasive wheel on 1/4" shank chucked in my old 1/4" Black and Decker drill.
No pictures today (well, I took them, but forgot to bring the camera up from the garage). All buttoned up, rotor and stator mounted, and timing set (figured it would be easier with the engine on the bench). Plugged intake and put it in the big plastic storage box. I need to do some lathe bit grinding and cut a flange on the lathe, so best to have it protected from that. After finishing with the lathe, I might get to de-rust the remainder of the frame and prime it. Then, ,all get stored away as we are having work done on our house that will require me to consolidate two GoldWings and the RD400 parts into the front half of the garage so that sheetrock can be ripped out over the garage door.
(https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/121821442_3795412233825270_6104833233867816587_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ozYTDC28UPQAX_SO1w2&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=ac00fc1d5e4934de2dd8d2f318095090&oe=5FAE30A0)
progress! :patriot:
i usually just zip tie bags over the intakes and stuff rags in the exhaust. plugs are fancy. :toot:
Quote from: m in sc on October 19, 2020, 05:15:47 PM
progress! :patriot:
i usually just zip tie bags over the intakes and stuff rags in the exhaust. plugs are fancy. :toot:
The plugs are what I used for the pressure testing, just poped in without clamps.
Not much more yesterday. Had to blow/shred/haul leaves. Only the third time this year so far. I expect four or five more sessions at least. A little cleaning on the frame upside-down, then primer. Then, the wife started cleaning shelves next to me kicking up dust on my wet primer. Moved the frame away from her and calked an end to the day's frame work.
I had started cleaning off the spots where I could see that the frame had rust painted over (a no-no for Navy guys). Got about half of it done and the wife started doing dusty things so I put it up. She worked today, so I finished putting etching primer on the spots I had found before and cleaned up the rest of it and applied etching primer to the whole frame. About an hour later I was able to get a coat of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Black to the part of it that I could hit with it upside-down. Tomorrow, if the weather is still good, I will flip it over and finish the black on it, then hang it from the garage ceiling until ready for assembly.
A little memory here of my first '76 RD400c that I bought new in Charleston, SC. It was ~'77 or '78 and I decided to ride the bike home for a long weekend. This is more than 500 miles, even with today's interstates. They were not complete back then. At least I only had a ~25-26 year old back at the time. Really, after Columbia SC headed North I became either numb or found the right position and the miles went by easy. Headed back to Charleston (Must have been a Tuesday, because I voted before I left) it all went real well until Columbia, SC at around midnight. Torrential rain started and I had to be back at the base Wednesday morning so I pressed on. I had purchased a rain suit at Kmart and it was just as good as you might suspect for a Kmart product. I was wearing a Bell Star full face helmet (one of the early ones) and that kept my glasses fairly clear, plus the visor didn't fog. Good thing because the rain was falling so hard that I could barely see the road. I made it home around 4 am and actually poured water out of my boots before going inside. My clothing was 100% soaked. I took a quick shower and shave, donned a clean uniform, and headed for the base, just getting there in time for muster. The RD never missed a beat. I don't remember how many miles I put on it, but purchased in late Summer of '76, sold in January '79 and although I had cages it was my main transportation the 50% of the time I was home (2 crew submarine). It never had an issue. Started right off every time. I never did any service beyond topping off the oil, tire pressure, and changing the transmission oil (once). Never took it back to the dealer for anything. Lots of trips to the beach, daily commute ~12 miles each way, at least once a week ride to friend's house in Ravenel Evening rides through the "marshland" (I was warned never to call them 'swamps') and up toward Summerville on Ashley River Road under the Live Oak canopy were memories I like to recall, too. That was a great age and time to be on a bike. I was mature enough though, to know that I was not mature enough to have that bike when I moved back to the mountains.
This my mother with the RD behind my Cougar:(https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/96609570_3321678711198627_7656791790904672256_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=DtI8rj0gVuEAX_Mjbg7&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=22da2473ef85f4092cf558fe9522300b&oe=5FC18577)
thats a fantastic pic and great story.
:toot:
:agree: thanks for sharing that :good:
I try to do at least a little something on it every day, even though most is now put up in preparation (soon, we hope!) for house remodel. Yesterday I cleaned, tested, and painted the clocks and their frame. Today I assembled the dash and tested all lamps and the circuit that switched on-and-off from the speedometer to give input to the signal cancel unit. Full speed fast (in reverse) on my VSR battery powered drill is ~ 30 MPH and 6 K RPM.
Finished removing the paint from the tank. Bondo on the small dents and the one big rough spot left on the front after using the stud welder on it. The a lot of sanding, and more Bondo, more sanding, Bondo Glazing and spot putty, more sanding. Primed the bottom (tunnel) with etching primer, then the top. Noticed some rough spots on the top, so built up about four layers of filler primer (the red). I'll let that cure overnight and hit it tomorrow with sanding again. If good then, a good etching primer layer to seal everything so the lacquer will not react with any small bit I may have left. Considering leaving the tunnel with just the etching primer and then clear over the whole thing when it comes time.
Well, good and not so. The "filler" primer never hardened. Had to sand it off. Then I tried Bondo Glazing and Spotting Putty - it never hardened and continues to outgas through my lacquer-based etching primer, messing it up. Dug that out and replaced it with regular Bondo 2-part. Pretty close to what I want, now.
Rainy today - and a bonus that the mountains provide - power outages. On our backup generator for the past hour and a half. And it is dark now. I always pray for the linemen that have to work in bad weather.
Anyway, the forks are rebuilt with new seals and fresh synthetic ATF. Straightened, cleaned the rust and paint off of the old headlight bucket, and primed it by heating with the heat gun, open the garage door and paint, close the door and hit with heat gun again, repeat. Weather is forecast to clear up in a few days. Then it will get black finish. Went through parts to determine what I still need - brake lines, tires, chain, plus about $150 in bits from Yambits.
Today, headlight bucket painted, mufflers cleaned and polished. Baffles pulled, cleaned, and new wrap installed. Downpipes polished. Kickstand installed. I guess the wiring harness needs to be brought in for refurb next.
Admirable dedication! Keep doin' a little bit
Started on the wiring this afternoon. Right control sorted. Had to completely disassemble and re-solder all three of the connections to the turn signal switch - they broke off! I've not experienced such bad cold solder joints in a Japanese product. Anyway, that item is ready except for the bullets presently soaking in vinegar. Bad weather forecast for tomorrow, so might get more done after church.
The headlight bucket and ring were pretty beat up. Looked like the bike had gone down on the right side and smashed them a bit. But, the lamp, lens, and reflector were intact! So, I tapped the ring and bucket back "rounderized" again and repainted the bucket. Looks ready to mount!
And, the wiring harness is pretty much cleaned up, checked out, repaired as needed. All that is left is the electrical board with fuse panel, regulator, and rectifier.
This happened this evening. USPS and FedEx delivered a bunch of parts (at around 6 pm). Have to say it is pretty amazing to order from Yambits on Friday and have the order delivered on Monday! Anyway, I also had All Balls head bearings ordered from an Amazon dealer along with headlight ear mounts from Yambits. I assembled the lower tree with the tapered bearing and the original ball bearing on top. Then mounted the forks and the headlight ears on them, and finally the top tree. Went together very smooth. Just setting on the dolly and a 4x4 for now. Tomorrow I'll figure out a way to balance it on the dolly and strap it down. Because - the builders are supposed to start coming in tomorrow! I really don't mind being delayed on the bike build if we can get these home repairs finished before bad winter weather!
The cleanup of the wiring is done (but not installed). I did get the seat, handlebar, and wheels on it so that it can be moved around easier. I guess the next would be the engine (or is it best to mount the wiring first?)
Airbox and wiring mounted (found that airbox first, but left loose to get loom in place works). Headlamp bowl and connections done. Next will be rear fender, grab rail, an wiring back to the stop and turns. Then the lump!
Soon you'll be :vroom:
It always amazes me how fast I get my Yambits orders. Faster than stateside suppliers!...................................D
Yes, I know there a lot of detractors to Yambits (same for Saber Cycle in the US), but for me their selection and speed rock.
Anyway, today the lump went in. Chain went on so I could torque the drive sprocket. Also, the rear mudguard is mounted along with tail light, signals, wiring. Need to mount up the rear brakes and fill and bleed both systems.
But, contractor called that he hopes to bring his trailer over tomorrow. At least with most of the RD together, I can roll it out to the shed and store it pretty easy.
Painting the tanks and side cover need to be done. I'm thinking to mix a little gold in with dark emerald green metallic. That should give the hint of yellow the Geneva Green has. I'll experiment with samples and if I get what I like, soot it and let that cure for a month or so (it's a lacquer) before decals and SprayMax Glamor Clear 2K rattle-can (that I have had real good success with).
Not a chrome fan, but the exhaust does add to it.
Right side exhaust and rear brake installed. They started on our house today. 12x12 foot deck and 4x6 landing, stairs to both all demo'ed. They will be back after the holidays and replace with new. I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow and hook up the battery (supposed to be delivered tomorrow) to see how the electrics look. Later in the week will roll it to the shed to store for the demolition of the garage ceiling.
Battery came in yesterday evening, and everything non-engine related seems to work except the signals. Think we might need a new flasher.
Snipped from my first post:
Quote from: pidjones on August 26, 2020, 05:57:33 PMDisconnected all the tubes from the oil tank, drained a couple ounces of oil out (20 year old and still flowing?), and put some isopropyl alcohol in it that drained out through the supply line fairly easy. I'll still put a camera down in there to inspect the screen.
Well, camera inspection revealed that the screen is ripped up real bad. I plan to pull it all lout and replace it with an inline 2T jetski oil filter https://www.amazon.com/SEADOO-275000051-275000262-275-000-051-275-000-262 (https://www.amazon.com/SEADOO-275000051-275000262-275-000-051-275-000-262/dp/B06XHGGGWJ/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=inline+oil+filter&qid=1606410680&sr=8-6)
Ok, I got the 3 pole electronic flasher to work. Yamaha for some reason swapped the load pole position on the relay. All that I had to do was swap the yellow/green connector with the brown/white connector, and at least flasher-wise, it is working great! Remind me in four or five montbs to report on if the cancelling function works.
Probably the last photo for a while. Carbs are on, everything hooked up except fuel and oil supply lines. Now to wait for weather to paint, decal, and clear the tanks and side cover. Then make smoke!
looks good. :clap:
that flasher is
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/MISC-BS/fuckin-mint-26798766.png)
RD has been rolled out to the shed. Sheet rock (gypsum board) taken down to permit replacement of the cantilevered joists that support a little 4 foot by six foot deck from the kitchen. Those are in now, but the ceiling can't be repaired until the inspector has checked it. The 12 foot by 12 foot deck has already been removed and replaced with a new one using composite decking that costs a freakin' fortune, but is supposed to outlast us.
With the decks and siding completed on the West side of the house, I have been able to roll the RD back into the garage. Today I pulled the wheels off to have new Shinkos mounted. Ratchet strap to keep the center stand locked forward, pulled the front off then tipped it forward until the fork legs rested on a box to allow the rear to come out.(https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/142778042_4070960186270472_5443635592653510626_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=eu0G0OGhNZ8AX9yjP6M&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=4d3e266288b1bd0e6f769bb74d2c4111&oe=6033645F)(https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/141719162_4071032896263201_1895470040345164192_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=8qPyvBr7rr0AX_gr0iY&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=45fb882899c7e6098a04e002b31fbb1d&oe=60365220)
Cool bike and great looking abode there!
My thoughts, exactly! ;)
Thanks, folks. New tires are on and wheels remounted. Had to raise the front fender to the lower mounting holes for the mount to clear the edge of the fat metric tire Also had to remove the caliper to get it past (that is a job, why did Yamaha design it like that?) Would have been so much easier if the mounting bolts both came in from the outside. Maybe it is because of these alloy pattern calipers? Rear with a 3.50 was fine, but still required the caliper to be loose to get it by.
The screen in the bottom of the oil tank is trashed. I made up a little aluminum filter body on my lathe to put a 60 mesh brass screen in to replace the filtering capacity. (https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/147758097_4108118785887945_7217811226878703845_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=6mJwlO3VuW4AX_TAzr4&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=749b81423138081ab5d410cfc54a7f72&oe=6046B36D) (https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/147758099_4108118829221274_3088318045847645250_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=YWcQqGufaRgAX_tpA5I&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=abcd27de2f5b24cdada55a90e15ad9d4&oe=6046F6A1)
Fiddle pharting around until weather breaks and I can paint. Disassembled my paint guns and ran them through the ultrasonic cleaner. Installed a new gasket on the fuel tank cap. Gasket was from Sumo rubber parts. Ground and drilled the rivets out, cleaned it all up with the wire wheel, than reassembled with pop rivets. It got up over freezing today (barely), and the guys are supposed to be here tomorrow to finish the front deck. Next week MIGHT see painting weather (doubtful, though). I do have the paint from RS Bike Paints. It is waterborne, so will be a whole new trick for me to learn. Everything that I've read and watched about it indicates that it should be easier than the lacquer that I have been using. I will still clear coat with 2K rattle can from SprayMax. I have 2 cans of it - one for after the color is fully dry, and one for after the decals are on and several days drying.
Well, temperatures got over 60F today, so I shot the color and first clear on the tins. Not my best work, but it is my first time with the waterborne. I could have done a LOT better on the bodywork too, but this bike has plenty of blemishes so it wasn't worth a lot of effort and time. I plan on this one being ridden a lot in good weather, and I have some great roads nearby to ride it on. Now to order the decals.
Replacement decals came today. Correct color, now. They are on and clear coated, but the clear coat fish eyed on one side of the tank so it will have to be sanded flat on that side. They showed up on the first pass, so I gave them a dust coat for future paint to stick to and then built up well so they should sand out Ok. I don't think I'll need to sand the side covers at all.
Yesterday I wet sanded with 1000 grit and used a touch-up dauber to fill the craters with left-over clear. Then let it all cure another day.
First day of wet sanding went well. Good amount of time spent with 800 grit getting things level and the eyes closed. Then, less with 1200 and quickly through 2000, 3000, and 5000. 7000 finished it off to compounding. I'm out of my good 3M rubbing compound, so used Turtle Wax rubbing compound and it was just Ok. 3M Finesse-It finishing compound still rocks, but I'll need to go over the tank one more time with it to get some mild haze out. My Harbor Freight variable speed buffer varies speed on its own and I don't trust it. Changed to an old Craftsman random orbit polisher that came in a 5 gallon bucket kit the wife bought for me years ago. Slow going, but at least it is pretty safe on the paint.
Getting there. This is just with the tank and side cover mounted, not plumbed in. Need to move some bikes around and get room around it to work.
The tins look great. :patriot: :patriot:
I wish I had the talent and patience.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 25, 2021, 03:19:44 PM
The tins look great. :patriot: :patriot:
I wish I had the talent and patience.
Three meter paint job I'm afraid. Looks Ok until you get closer than three meters.
Oil tank mounted now (that was a wrestling match). All hooked up save the oil feed to the pump and the fuel feeds to the carbs. Both need clamps that I will try to source locally tomorrow.
Question: do most people run fuel filters? I know that on GoldWings we must as they have so many tiny fuel passages in the four carbs. Thinking about adding one in each fuel line.
I run fuel filters on both my RD's. Doesn't seem to restrict fuel flow.
paint looks pretty good.
I have had issues with fuel filters in the past, so I just make sure there is a screen on the petcock now
I run Visu-filters (https://www.economycycle.com/shop/fuel-oil-line-clamps-misc/fuel-filters/visu-filter-fuel-filter-14/) and change them out every year or two because the crappy CA pump gas tends to degrade them. They're cheap and because they're transparent it's easy to assess condition.
The new paint job is looking sweet! :clap:
:clap: :clap: I run the visu filters on both carbs also. Looks great.
You may note the front wheel has paint in places and not in others. I am slowly but surely removing the paint that some PO put on them (poorly). Acetone, Scotchbrite, wire brushes, LOTS of elbow grease and time! Once I get it off the front, the rear will wait until it is removed for some other reason.
I run clear fuel filters on my RD. Cheap, easy and effective. ;)
Great looking bike; regardless of paint finish. This has always been my favorite color scheme of all of the 400s. Besides, I appreciate the irony of a 2T being presented as Green. :devil:
She lives! (Thanks in part to the folks here on the forum.) Only took her for about 1.5 mile spin around the neighborhood, but she ran and shifted great. Front bakes are great Rear brakes need work (worn MC). Very happy to hear and smell the old 2-stroker again! BTW, I ended up putting a filter on each line.
https://youtu.be/VWDm1ksGC7A (https://youtu.be/VWDm1ksGC7A)
Congratulations :celebrate:
Definitely congratulations!
Having started my cafe for the 1st time in over 40 yrs, I know how great you feel.
It IS a great feeling! Big congrats!! :wave:
SHAZBOT! Went into the garage this morning after coming home from getting our COVID 2nd vaccines. Smelled gas. Localized it to the bottom of the right side of the tank, inboard of the seam. The tank is now off and drained and a POR-15 repair kit is on order.
No good deed goes unpunished! Hope the leak didn't ruin your paint work, and good luck with the repair. Nanu-Nanu.
Quote from: 85RZwade on April 02, 2021, 01:28:18 AM
No good deed goes unpunished! Hope the leak didn't ruin your paint work, and good luck with the repair. Nanu-Nanu.
I'll protect the paint with plastic and painter's tape. The leak is inboard the seam where it is just primed, so after sealing I can reprime that area while it is still masked off. Just have to be very careful while cleaning, etching, and lining with the kit.
Doing the deed today. Already spent five hour with cleaner and etch. Another haf hou of etch and then probably an hour of drying (I like using a vacuum cleaner to lower the vapor pressure of remaining water, thenheat gun)THEN the POR15 goes in and rolls for about an hour, then blow out the cross-over tubes and clean things up.
You never said what you did to get it started?
M
Quote from: Milan on April 08, 2021, 02:18:42 PM
You never said what you did to get it started?
M
Really, just made sure electrics were right to the coils (had a poor bullet connection) and it started on the left. Then I noticed fuel coming out the bowl drain on right and closed it, then it ran on both. Maybe 10 kicks finding all that. Took off the aux tank with premix and hooked up the regular tank with premium and it started right off. The tank is lined and back on, but I won't put fuel in it until next week.
I fueled the tank with about a gallon today and there was no leakage. Engine started on 2nd kick and idled without choke after just a couple minutes. Adjusted the rear brake stroke, and I think it will be Ok without rebuilding the MC. Tomorrow I hope to take a few spins on it.
Fixed a leaky float bowl drain and installed a metal fuel filter to replace the plastic one for the left cylinder. Checked that all leaks stopped by putting a clean paper towel under the bowls and waiting, then checking it with a UV light.
Then, I took her for a 7 mile loop through the valley and she ran GREAT! My only concern was that the pipe seem to be running cool. Just a minute after shutting her off I could grab the down pipes and they were barely warm! Sure not like a 4 stroke!
Rear brake is still a bit soft, but I mainly use front anyway, using rear for final stop.
Feeling pretty stupid. Along with the leaky float bowl drain on Left, the Right overflow was dripping. I put the tube in a small bottle overnight to keep it from stinking up the house (petcock leaks, too) and must have pinched it off. Because, this afternoon when I could get around to pulling the Right carb off, fuel dumped out of the carb throat. Ooops. So, I'm sure it also went into the crankcase. Then when the float bowl came off I found the problem - leaky float? NO! I hadn't tightened the float seat into the carb body! Tightened that up and put it all back together. Of course, I can't get it to fire a lick now. Pulled the plugs (new) and they are a bit wet but show no evidence of firing. Old plugs aside the head fire nice and hot. Guess I've filled the crankcase. So, what is the procedure? Pull the plugs and kick it a few times every time I pass it? I have a new petcock on order, BTW.
New petcock came today. It had been taking a scenic tour of East Tennessee conducted by the US Postal Service when drove fifteen miles to intercept it before it spent another week touring (and it was correctly addressed!) Turned the tank on its side and swapped the petcocks, remounted and reconnected. I have been kicking it over four or five times both throttle open and closed all week. Plugs are just hand-tight in. I'll probably install new ones and try firing it up again next week. Right now it has to reside in the shed with the tractors because we don't have any room in the garage. Anyone want to buy an '06 GL1800? Please! I need the space!
Finally pulled her out of the shed. Had been kicking her over four times throttle closed and four throttle open daily for over a week. Today I turned on the (new) petcock and on first kick she sputtered, third she fired and ran. Pulled her up behind the house and removed the rear master. Ran my battery powered drill with a 1/2" dowel rod rapped in 2000 grit silicon carbide flushed with isopropyl through the bore for about five minutes. Rinsed all of that out with more isopropyl and blew it out with compressed air. Reassembled with brake fluid for lubrication of the seals. All back together and bleed, bleed, bleed until partial petal achieved. Led brick bungeed to the pedal now and about an hour ago I checked on it. Much better, so put the squeeze back on it.
There is an indoor car and bike show Saturday. I was planning to take my custom GL1000, but now I think I'll take the RD.
were those two goldwings on knoxville craigslist by chance yours??? i really liked the older one. did you sell it or decide to keep it ??
Quote from: 747drvr on April 29, 2021, 10:05:54 PM
were those two goldwings on knoxville craigslist by chance yours??? i really liked the older one. did you sell it or decide to keep it ??
Yes. I sold the '79 last week. Still need to sell the '06 because we also have a new Spyder in the garage.
looks like someone got a nice deal and bike with the 79. i kept trying to convince myself to pull the trigger on it. lol bought an rz instead
Rode her to the Time Warp Tea Room bike night yesterday. One - kick starting, quick warm up to choke off, penty of power. I'm pumped! (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210512/120ca1103270e0e9b2eb534f18839916.jpg)
Just noticed today that Geneva was named BOM for April over on the Do The Ton site! Pretty pleased by that.
wish i had remembered the time warp date !! been wanting to get some riding time on the rz since i did a top on it!! :umm: btw that green beauty would look really nice between my rz and rd in the garage !! :love eyes: :love eyes:
Bike Night every Tuesday at the Time Warp! Turn out pretty much governed by the weather.
Went to the Time Warp after the rains this evening. Tomorrows going to suck cleaning it off. Ran out of gas but coasted into a station that had 93 octane.
Took Geneva to the Mossy Creek Cruisers show in Jefferson City, TN today. Won Antique class. Was a nice, although a bit warm day. Rains held off until loaded and gone.
congrats to Geneva !!! I need to add a 400 to my herd. But getting an original 73 z1 900 from the original owner first.
Congrats on the trophy :clap:
Congratulations!!
Planning to take her to a show in Knoxville tomorrow for a church car & bike show. Year before last (before COVID) they had a vendor with deep fried pork chops. Yum! You could feel your arteries clogging up just looking at them! It will be hot and to permit taking chairs, canopy, cooler, etc. we will take Geneva on the trailer.
Won a trophy for Best Paint Motorcycle. The paint is RSBIKEPAINTS water borne Geneva Green over Rustoleum and Duplicolor etching primer, a can of Spraymax 2k Glamor clear, decals, and another can of Spraymax Glamor clear (and of course sanded and polished out). I love the color. The finish? Meh.
All that work deserves a fine trophy :boom: :like:
Congrats! :clap: You're gathering quite a collection of awards for your work!
I've been collecting a small spot of oil under Geneva every time she is parked. Coming from GoldWings, this will never do! Obviously from under the left cover in the drive sprocket area. I know these are often the neutral switch insulator is cracked, but mine seems Ok. What was not Ok was the forward blanking plug. It was blown halfway out. Tapped it back in and levered the other one home. But, that didn't fix it. After another couple weeks and oil spots, I pulled the left cover again today. The forward blanking plug was blown half-way out of the case. This time, I cleaned the plug and case well then Hondabond 4 on its periphery and tapped it back in. The rear blanking plug didn't look like it had moved. I have UV leak detector dye on order, and if spots reoccur I will add about 8-10 ml of it to the gearbox. I did check that the gearbox vent was clear, also.
Rode her just a bit over 7 miles to a show yesterday. She made me proud by starting 1st kick each time. Leaving the show at over 90F I didn't even choke her to start. This impressed the guys there with Honda motards that said they would need a dozen or so kicks to start. When I got home she was parked on the center stand (on a paper towel) again to check for leaks. If still spotting I will pull the left cover and do a black light search.
Pulled the left side cover today anyway, just to search with the UV flashlight. Not a hint of leakage, so hopefully the Hondabond 4 worked.
Added a GL1800 horn in place of the stock beep beep - what a difference!
Today is a holiday in the US, so I decided to take a little holiday ride. Not long, only about 50 miles but it was ove one of my favorite routes through Norris Dam State Park. The RD ran fantastic. I stopped about 10 miles from home and filled the tank. Best I can figure, I am getting about 40 mpg.
I did a helmet video but it is very wind noisy (and it is aimed down at the clocks too much). Taking a long time to upload to YouTube, but I'll add a link once it is done. Nothing exciting, though. Which is kinda good!
Question for any that might know: is there a calibration to the oil tank dipstick grooves? Maybe an ounce per groove?
Love this thread.. glad to follow along.
Can't wait to be in the same moments.
Quote from: soonerbillz on September 06, 2021, 08:32:18 PM
Love this thread.. glad to follow along.
Can't wait to be in the same moments.
Do something, even a little thing, each day and you are there before you know it!
^ yup.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/MISC-BS/go-on.gif)
Getting ready to winterize next week. Plan is to fire it up, let it idle until the float bowls run dry, then drain any fuel left. Then I'll change the gear lube. Might go ahead and drain the fuel tank then. It will be stored in our heated basement garage. The front fender needs to come off and get a few dents sorted this winter.
If you can get ethanol free fuel then its better to fill the tank completely for storage.
Ive added a fuel tap to my mower, pressure washer, snow blower and switched out the vacuum petcock on my Katana so that I can run the carbs dry.
Lucas ethanol treatment worked for me, I had a 82 kz1100 I had put this treatment in and it sat without running for the better part of a year . I put a battery in it and was able to crank it and ride it about 20 mile to my current address. I am sold on their products.
The bike only sees ethanol-free high test. Due to its need for a tank liner this past Spring, and it being stored in the (heated) basement of our house, I'll feel more comfortable with it drained.
add 1 oz premix per gallon to fuel. will sit just fine.
:twocents:
Bike is now mounted on a furniture dolly with both wheels off to get the paint removed.
Took the wheels in today to have the paint blasted off. A fender washer on each side of the central bearings held in with all-thread and rubber hose shoved over the disk studs.
Remounted the wheels today. New bearings in the rear. Discovered the rear MC leaking again. Ordered a kit for it.
Is the 400's rear master particularly problematic? It seems to be a common complaint area.
Quote from: 85RZwade on December 31, 2021, 07:02:53 PM
Is the 400's rear master particularly problematic? It seems to be a common complaint area.
Good question. I suspect that it is more a 40+ year-old component problem. I've had trouble with CB750F and GL1000 rear masters, too. Brake fluid over time pulls in water, and the MCs have dissimilar metals in them. I think the biggest problem on this one is very old piston cups that have conformed to the bore over time and no longer press against them. Also, you must
always clean out the "splooge hole" to prevent the brakes from locking up.
My New Years resolution is now to change my brake fluid :cheers:
Rebuild kit installed. Took over half bottle of fluid to get it bled, but I think it is finally there. At least no evidence of leakage. Now I put her to bed for a couple more months while work goes forward on the Triumph T150V I picked up.
Filled the gas tank, turned the gas on ($4.40/gallon pure hi test), choke on, second kick she started. Not bad after a winter's nap. I'll ride her a bit tomorrow.
I've found that reverse bleeding is the only way I can get a rear master to build pressure.
Pid- will your Geneva Green RD be making an appearance at the large Deals Gap 2 Stroke Meet in May?
Quote from: Evans Ward on March 03, 2022, 07:30:31 PM
I've found that reverse bleeding is the only way I can get a rear master to build pressure.
Pid- will your Geneva Green RD be making an appearance at the large Deals Gap 2 Stroke Meet in May?
Hopefully. It will definitely be at the Possum Gathering on 13-14 May.
Took Geneva to the Rockwood Thunder Road Festival Car & Bike Show today She brought home Best Vintage (pre-'85)!