I'm trying to install the HPI ignition on my 75 RD350. The instructions are very vague and my key areas of concern are the placement of the stator and setting the basic timing. I know M IN SC had a really good thread with pics on the old board. any chance we can get that again. thanks in advance.
actually... yes. I'm out on the bike right now, I'll be home later and post em :toot:
thank you!!!!
its pretty straightforward. look for the marks on the rotor, and time it with a light. i used a ball end allen to tighten the bolts on the gold plate so i could move it to time. don't forget to pull the steel pin out of the case at 7 o clockish. the pic should show enough to figure out how to orientate the plates. the line in the rotor is the trigger mark (not in pic but its scribed on the chrome outer rotor)
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/hpi-cdi/project-ign2-pegs_03_zps5eelgf5e.jpg)
i hope this helps. its not much but its all i really have of it actually installed.
thanks for the pic. so to be clear I'm using a timing light and not a dial indicator to set the timing. also did you apply green loctite to the crankshaft to prevent the rotor for possible movement?
yes i did. I used a light but you need to find TDC to install the rotor.
makes more sense now. so the I found the 2 lines on the stator plate. one is 11 and the other is 1 o clock. I'm assuming 11 o clock is cylinder 1. set piston 1 at tdc with a dial indicator then line up the rotor mark with the mark on the stator... sound about right??
thats (11) probably the firing mark. the single line i think was TDC
How much lighter is the HPI compared to the stock magneto?
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/hpi-cdi/20180716_2104161_zpsvg5dmxsc.jpg)
if i remember corectly was almost a 4 lbs difference (this included cdi box and all wiring). it was insane.
Wow. That must be a load off of the crank. Can't wait until they are back in stock again by treats. I am assuming you don't need a battery to run this kit...similar to the MZB/POWERDYNAMO.
Will this ignition power the lights?
Quote from: ~JM~ on April 06, 2019, 10:42:21 AM
Will this ignition power the lights?
I believe it's rated at 60W output.
Quote from: ~JM~ on April 06, 2019, 10:42:21 AM
Will this ignition power the lights?
yep! https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=HPI-YAMAHA-RD350-MINI-ROTOR
Wow that's a nice system!
Mark, did you run yours with a Zeel or just use the HPI system as is?
Thinking hard about the HPI for the Kart Track Racer project bike.
just the hpi. it has a curve in it.
I can email Benji to see when the next order of them will be coming in, not sure if they have yet. But if there is enough interest on the forum, then I bet you Benji will get some in stock for us!
Sounds like he is expecting a few this week.
Quote from: m in sc on April 06, 2019, 10:56:54 PMjust the hpi. it has a curve in it.
Unfortunately I did not read the previous posts on the pros & cons of the Powerdynamo vs. the HPI ignitions.
Would anyone mind discussing that? The HPI looks like it may reduce the weight at the end of the crank substantially.
Thank you.
Quote"Hi Quoc,
We can have those back in about 2- 3 weeks.
Yea, we've seen the thread. We'll have to keep a few of these in stock since we've been getting requests for them due to that thread. Pretty cool!! -Dana"
Got an email from treatland
I wrote them, offered a vendor section at no charge like everybody else in there, didnt get a reply. :umm:
Quote from: m in sc on April 08, 2019, 09:31:08 PM
I wrote them, offered a vendor section at no charge like everybody else in there, didnt get a reply. :umm:
They are probably swamped with tons of emails and orders due to the recent sale they are doing.
You can order direct from HPI for around $250 + shipping from Belgium.
Are these plug and play? Can you use the stock 400 coils, regulator and rectifier with these?
Quote from: pdxjim on April 09, 2019, 12:24:41 PM
You can order direct from HPI for around $250 + shipping from Belgium.
when all is said and done, treatland is cheaper. I quoted both ways last year, they beat em by 40 or 50 bucks.
No, not plug and play/ its a complete system like any cdi setup. there will be changes in wiring , quite a bit.
Quote from: m in sc on April 09, 2019, 01:21:14 PM
Quote from: pdxjim on April 09, 2019, 12:24:41 PM
You can order direct from HPI for around $250 + shipping from Belgium.
when all is said and done, treatland is cheaper. I quoted both ways last year, they beat em by 40 or 50 bucks.
No, not plug and play/ its a complete system like any cdi setup. there will be changes in wiring , quite a bit.
Does HPI or Treatland offer support or instructions?
they coem with instructions. its easy. the charging is the odder part. get the regulator with it.
The HPI obviously has a lighter and smaller diameter rotor than MZB/Powerdynamo/Vape. But how much does it build axially? With my Powerdynamo, the round alternator/ ignition cover could almost have been replaced by a flat plate. I may actually turn a shallow cover from 12 mm alloy plate one day...
my rd has a flatter plate on it (with the powerdynamo). could do same with the hpi.
Quote from: pdxjim on April 09, 2019, 12:24:41 PM
You can order direct from HPI for around $250 + shipping from Belgium.
Yeah, but you get to support such a great small company. They will literally bend over backwards to help people out.
https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=HPI-YAMAHA-RD350-MINI-ROTOR
back in stock
I still not have installed it yet. I a bit lost on timing as there is marks all over the place and the directions are terrible. also looking for a place to mount the coil and the little rectifier.
Make sure you confirm the timing via a timing light on the HPI once installed. Mine doesn't fire when the rotor & stator marks are lined up, it triggers a little before. In other words, if you line up the marks and set the timing at 2.0mm BTDC, it will actually fire at 2.3mm (on mine).
true, i had to adjust it with the plate, was easy, but definitely verify :twocents:
IF I'm shooting for 1.8mm BTDC timing how is a timing light going to verify this? I thought the timing was set with a dial indicator. I really wish they had a step by step install manual.
Quote from: turtle on May 07, 2019, 11:31:14 AM
IF I'm shooting for 1.8mm BTDC timing how is a timing light going to verify this? I thought the timing was set with a dial indicator. I really wish they had a step by step install manual.
Ignition timing is set with a dial indicator, but you can verify that it is correct with a timing light.
Look at the top picture in the PDF below:
http://www.kreidler.be/general%20downloads/HPI%20210_1C2T_eng.pdf (http://www.kreidler.be/general%20downloads/HPI%20210_1C2T_eng.pdf)
For counter-clockwise rotation, the ignition should fire when the rotor mark is aligned with the left mark on the stator. Use a dial indicator to place the piston/crank at 1.8mm BTDC (or whatever timing you choose), then rotate the stator to align the left mark with the rotor mark.
To verify the timing, clip your timing light onto a spark plug lead and start the engine. At 3.5-4k rpm the rotor mark and the left stator mark should be lined up. If none of this makes any sense, find a forum member that lives nearby to help you.
Don´t forget that HPI both advance and retard timing.
From zero rpm to 3500 it advances timing 10° (from 15 to 25°) and holds to 4500, after that retards another 12,5° at 10000 rpm, don´t have these values in mm.
I have saved some info from old site but don´t know who to credit for this :umm:
Setting at 3,2m gives:
2000>2,9 mm btdc
3000>3,1
4000>3,4
5000>3,1
6000>2,4
7000>2,0
8000>1,7
9000>1,3
10000>0,9
Can someone (who knows what they're talking about) recommended proper timing setting for HPI on "stage 1" tuned RD350 on premium pump gas?
i set the base marks at 1.9 on mine, try 1.8 to 1.9
i see you used a nut to hold the rotor to the crankshaft but on my 75 it's a bolt. going to need to find a small bolt as well.
that's because I used an LC crank, long story. yes, you'll use an m7 bolt
So whats involved in integrating the HPI lighting coil into the OEM 12v system? Is it merely connecting the new RR output to the existing red wire?
NEW ISSUE.... I purchased an m7x20 bolt for the crank to mount the rotor and it still slips( the rotor) with the bolt tight. there is basically no interference fit between the crank and the rotor. i'm going to send them an email to see what they say.
interesting, 1st i heard of that. are you sure you ordered it for an early small taper rd? the later ones (european) were larger tapers i think. the lc and rz certainly was. they may have sent the wrong rotor on their own mistake.
regarding the 12v thing, yea, should be it.
Quote from: pdxjim on May 07, 2019, 06:17:37 PM
Can someone (who knows what they're talking about) recommended proper timing setting for HPI on "stage 1" tuned RD350 on premium pump gas?
Stay on the safe side, no more than 1.7mm static! Gear it down for as low as you can go for the track too. (Over gearing hurts)
IMO, air-cooled engines don't like pump gas on roadrace! I run 50/50 with C12 in my historic stock racebike on 32:1 mix of you favorite oil...
Did you do a full mockup of squish clearances, squish ratio, calculate MSV and full stroke compression ratio?
Always remember bore size can push it right over the edge easy...
I know Garett did your machine work, but not sure if he has it low enough for straight pump gas.
Chuck
Quote from: m in sc on May 16, 2019, 10:43:57 PM
interesting, 1st i heard of that. are you sure you ordered it for an early small taper rd? the later ones (european) were larger tapers i think. the lc and rz certainly was. they may have sent the wrong rotor on their own mistake.
regarding the 12v thing, yea, should be it.
I got an email from willy and I was told there is 4 different kit options. I ordered the only rd350 option from treatland. I must have the wrong rotor, because it is very loose. I provided him a pic of the install and the invoice from treatland
yeah, i bet you got the large taper one. I -may- be to blame as when i ordered it from him, i had to go with a large one. Im sure benji will get it straightened out for you.
after providing 10 pictures to willy@hpi I am getting no help. I'm being told the rotor is correct and now I'm getting pissed. I'm going to try and send him a video of the issue and hopefully he will see.
ah, youre dealing with them direct? interesting. this is why i went thru treatland when i bought mine. incase there was an issue there would be a stateside distributor to take care of things. bummer.
how far off is the taper diameter? im assuming the one you got is too big?
I sent treatland an email this morning. hopefully they can help
so i finally got a new rotor from treatland and it actually fits. there was a pretty big difference from the old to the new. for the guys running this setup, did you go with the hpi rectifier/regulator or is there a better option out there.
Quote from: turtle on May 26, 2019, 04:12:10 PM
so i finally got a new rotor from treatland and it actually fits. there was a pretty big difference from the old to the new. for the guys running this setup, did you go with the hpi rectifier/regulator or is there a better option out there.
treatland customer service strikes again! They are great!!
IF i were to go with a 12vdc system, id use theirs. since i went full on ac lighting, i used a trail tech setup. :twocents:
Hahaha. On the Kart track Racer bike we just used the HPI as shipped.
No wiring harness, no reg/rec, no battery, no lights, no nuthin.
We did ad an MX style kill switch, but that's all.
Quote from: m in sc on May 28, 2019, 10:38:15 AM
IF i were to go with a 12vdc system, id use theirs. since i went full on ac lighting, i used a trail tech setup. :twocents:
Mark, what wire on the stock harness did you connect the 60w lighting wire too? I have the trail tech as well.
mine isnt stock wiring at all. however, its like any system like that, and can wired into the battery lead. if you are going to run a battery, you need to run a rectifier of some sort as well as the output is AC.
as an follow up, timing was mentioned as i want 100% clear, Krister was though and it may have been lost.
when timing, you need to make sure the timing marks, at 3500-4000 rpm, running, line up. this is listed at 25 degrees. my unclear instructions, were eluding to i did the initial setup at 1.7 as a starting point. admittedly, i run mine 1 degree less. so at 3500 rpm the marks line up on my 350 at 2.9mm btdc, which equates to 24 degrees max advance . @ 1.8-1.9 @ 1100 rpm or so, its close to do initial setup, but what really matters is the dynamic 'flat' plateau at the 3500-4k so the rest of the curve performs correctly. :twocents:
I love this whole thread!
I have a HPI on my Puch Magnum.
And, once I saw from their direct website that there are RD350 ones, I have wanted to get one.
Because, the one on my moped is killer!!!
Oh, and I love treats from Treatland!
Thanks everybody for all of the input on this ignition.
Wait for the treats sale. It's going to happen soon
is there any chance the ricks rectifier/reg will work with this unit. I have a new one lying around. I really need to get this bike back on the road.
r/r for a stock rd? no.
Do they have a different kit for 73 RD350AB ? I mean since the rotor is held in place by a bolt not a nut like in later RD.s?
Just got mine yesterday. Does anybody have a rect. that they recommend to go with the trail tech regulator?
you'll need a 2 input rectifier. you also will probably need to unground the winding to get the voltage you need unless you are ok running ac lighting (which is what i did)
something along these lines will do:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-amp-Full-Wave-Bridge-Rectifier-KBPC8010-For-converting-AC-to-DC-hho-use-80a/282314579822?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60037%26meid%3Df0678ba4f0d346e9b23d767e490a7af7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D283584947234%26itm%3D282314579822%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I will have to do a bit of research. Thanks
I'm leaning towards an HPI for my LC build.
I assume I to buy the "Ignition & Lighting" kit: https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=210K112
Do I also need the CDI: https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD4308
... and the R/R?: https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD4308
Please forgive my rhetorical/dumb question ... I'm in the dark about mc electrical stuff.
the seperate cdi you listed is for a stock bike. just buy the main unit (1st link) and you can use their rr.
FYI, I just got the email on the Treatland Flash Sale
18% off use code "pumpkinspice" sale ends 10/25/2019
Just about to let people know this too! ^^^
Started a HPI install here...
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1139.0 (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1139.0)
Chuck
How's this look for a coil mount?
that is where I mounted mine.. seemed like a good spot and should receive nice air flow.
Thanks Turtle
hung mine right off the upper frame tube. however, ive done similar. don't leave it single shear mount, the bolt will eventually break. support it on both sides if you can.
Yup a bolt on either side. Flange bolt, coil, spacer, frame, lock washer, nut.
Thanks
got it. wasnt clear in pic. :toot:
Hi guys,
Are these HPI's keyed to the crank?
Not keyed, taper fit.
ok TY...
One more question.... Doesnt my 1976 RD400c have a voltage regulator in it I can use or do I need to buy one for this HPI system as well?
Have to use a aftermarket one, stock one won't work.
I'll have to come back and finish my HPI install post.
Chuck
Just ordered an HPI from treatland. Can't wait to add this to my bike this winter.
Quote from: m in sc on October 04, 2019, 10:44:36 AM
you'll need a 2 input rectifier. you also will probably need to unground the winding to get the voltage you need unless you are ok running ac lighting (which is what i did)
something along these lines will do:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-amp-Full-Wave-Bridge-Rectifier-KBPC8010-For-converting-AC-to-DC-hho-use-80a/282314579822?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60037%26meid%3Df0678ba4f0d346e9b23d767e490a7af7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D283584947234%26itm%3D282314579822%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I got a 50a bridge rectifier laying around, will that suitable?
Looks to me as a rectifier only.
Now you'll need to find a standalone regulator.
I wouldn't spend my time on it. I need things to go easy, not harder and eat time experimenting.
Vintage RD building do that enough already!
Chuck
it will work. however as chuck said, it will need a regulator as well.
as a rule of thumb, rectifiers eat about 30% of voltage from ac to dc. it doesn't really eat it, but clips the wave.., but if you check before and after adding a rectifier, you lose a minimum of 30 % voltage ac to dc measured.
that being said, floating a ground off the hpi and having 2 wire out, will give 2 legs of ac. this can go to a 2 wire rect/reg . or just use the one supplied with the unit. this means ungrounding the grounded leg of the winding and adding a wire and running it out of the motor.
Me? i have time to do this so can experiment, i get why chuck doesn't want to delve into unknowns, completely understandable.
Happy thanksgiving all
(http://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/MISC-BS/turkey.gif)
I completely spaced that I was ordering from a specialized moped company, where batteries and DC voltage is not a thing and ordered the AC voltage regulator only.
I will try running it with the rectifier into the regulator. If that doesn't work then I will try one of those R/R that I have laying around.
I am only getting 5 Volts AC from the yellow "LIGHT OUT" from the stator. Any advise on whats wrong?
at what rpm?
I will check today and revert the voltage at different rpms.
In the meanwhile, I read on treatlands that i need a resistor type sparkplug or a resistor boot. Should i buy this ->
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-Spark-Plug-Resistor-Cover-Cap-Boot-NEW-LB05F-Motorcycle-Elbow-5k-Ohm/202777608821?fits=Model%3ARD350&epid=26017010018&hash=item2f367cc275:g:z4AAAOSw7I5TsZP4:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!14305!US!-1
Also, on another page, i saw that the member bought a rectifier+regulator, will this help me to hook up the hpi unit to the battery to power everything ->
HPI is out of stock on their R/R, and thats almost a 150 bucks as well. This one on ebay is 10 bucks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Wire-Full-Wave-Silver-Motorcycle-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-DC-Bike-Quad-Scooter/292689887133?pageci=9699c8a5-f3b7-4164-8330-44b7047f5d53&epid=828261382
... or you could use a resistor type plug. Same end result.
Thanks, how about the R/R?
you running a battery?
IF i were to run a battery on mine with the hpi, id consider this. (but would require un-grounding the other end of the lighting coil)
https://www.trailtech.net/en-us/shop/accessories/motorcycle-parts/electrical/electrical-components/dc-regulator-rectifier-150-watt-full-wave-w-relay/
looks like an interesting unit. im running the AC regulator and love it.
other people have run this unit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Wire-Full-Wave-Silver-Motorcycle-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-DC-Bike-Quad-Scooter/292689887133
however, quite a bit has been discussed in the 'team scream' section on this forum under 'HPI install'.
Thanks for everyone posting in this thread! Helped me a lot, if you struggle with this installation then just re-read this and the Supertune thread.
Im trying to get the motorcycle running with battery. I bought the ATV 4 wire R/R from ebay.
I now have only 1 lead to the R/R, which is the HPI yellow "light out". How can i unground the coil, so I have 2 leads to the R/R. Also, how does this ungrounding affect the ignition voltage?
ungrounding the lighting coil has zero affect on ignition. :twocents:
you need to find the lighting coil ground, its a ring terminal held on with i think an m4 or m5 to the stator plate (so you have to remove it). then solder on a wire to the newly ungrounded wire, snake up up the harness to the rectifier and viola. there you go. look up 'floating the ground' on google, pretty common on ac bikes.
Quote from: m in sc on August 27, 2020, 12:36:16 AM
ungrounding the lighting coil has zero affect on ignition. :twocents:
you need to find the lighting coil ground, its a ring terminal held on with i think an m4 or m5 to the stator plate (so you have to remove it). then solder on a wire to the newly ungrounded wire, snake up up the harness to the rectifier and viola. there you go. look up 'floating the ground' on google, pretty common on ac bikes.
Yep, look at my post on the other thread. Its the allen (m4) that you take off. Make sure you tape off the silver wire cause it can be grounded. Remove the black pin from the CDI unit (3 wire connector) and you can wire that to your pink or yellow! BANG you have 12v DC from your RED on that ATV R/R.
(https://i.ibb.co/BL6wJ1N/118037602-327578621694219-4359134069196154999-n.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/xgNXPvW/Inked117709372-640995513211827-5347167908001671529-n-LI.jpg).
(https://i.ibb.co/LZ0NzBr/117870497-1201283626900619-763323693664162205-n.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/P1XB25W/117545744-1646022818906011-6890017287753514742-n.jpg)
Installed the Rectifier+Regulator today.
I took a line from the black wire, close to the plastic connector near the CDI unit, to feed the R/R. I didn't run a seperate snake line from the stator.
Removed the m4 allen as advised and taped it up; to un-ground.
Got a steady output of 13.6V / 5A at idle. Finally found the engine kill switch wire and connected it to the cdi (picture attached, the red+black wire). Thank you M in SC, quocle603 and my brother for the valuable tips.
:clap:
:metal: :metal: :metal: nice job. :cheerleader:
Glad to help!! Now start blasting away!
Can i use a non-resistor type spark plug with a HPI CDI unit?
Some says it will burn the CDI.
Some say it will only cause electrical interference with the CDI box and can be fixed by moving the CDI box away from the plugs.
I feel atleast 20% reduction in power with the NGK BR8HS resistor type spark plug.
20% reduction on power? no way I don't buy that for a second. If you are down 20% you have other tuning issues.
Its indetectible if anything, at best. try non resistor, if you -think- they work better and don't break up the signal, have at it. no permanent damage either way.
Does the coil end need to be grounded? (the thick metal square that looks like a battery terminal)
i dont think so. its just a mechanical mount.
Got mine in 2020. I guess it must be a newer model as the stator has a scale like timing mark in it. Each 5th mark equals 1 mm, was easy to play around to check power difference at different ignition settings. Tried between 1.8mm and 3.5mm BTDC, got the best power at 3mm BTDC. Finally used a dial gauge to recheck since I was following the scale on the stator and it was almost exact.
:taz:Running into issues again. I am only getting DC 5V-2 Amp at 2000 rpm. Voltage goes up to 13.5V only after 5000 rpm. My battery cant keep up with it. Currently running a lead from the ungrounded end of the coil along as 1 input to the RR and the HPI supplied light-out as the other IN for the RR. These 2 go into the input of the R/R.
I even bought a trailtech R/R (model 7004-RR150) which is a full wave 150 watt RR with a relay, suspecting that my existing ebay RR might not be working. Voltage is dropping as RPM increasing! :shocked:
Any help is greatly appreciated
I been reading the posts on the "HPI CDI mini rotor ignition system for yamaha RD250, DS7, RD350, YR5, RD400" from treatland on this form as I am trying to figure out what CDI system to buy. I have also been looking at the CDI systems available from Economy Cycle. I see alot of good reviews for the HPI system and it seems to be what i need.
I am trying to piece together the 1975 RD350 I bought. I am in the process of reassembling the motor as i replaced the crank seals and bored the cylinders. The bike i bought was basically a RD350 roller with a complete motor minus carbs, ignition, and wiring . It was "half a roller" as it was also missing the front end. Front end installed thanks again to the forum!
I am curious as to what i will all need to run this system. I building a race bike so i don't need any lights or battery, as i just need it to start and race!
I also read "Need schooling on Ignition options" so this is what I gathered.
I know that I need to run resistor boots or resistor plugs. Do resistor boots come with the system? From pic on the website it does not appear so.
Do i need to buy the trail tech voltage regulator? Not planning on running any lights.
I was planning on using a dirt bike style kill switch.
Is there anything else i would need to buy to bring this RD to life?
Again thanks for all the help that the members of this forum have provided to me.
Voltage regulation is a must as unregulated charging systems cook things.
HPI makes an ignition for race bikes, no charging system, just spark. https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=068K089
If you want a charging system for lights then this one https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=210K176
Installation was fairly easy although the included installation manual was very helpful. Take out the existing generator (use the following video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYW1hOxFfOQ
Once you remove the rotor and stator, you will find a small dovel pin which needs to removed with a plier, only then will the HPI stator install correctly aligned. I have attached the image (ITEM NO 14 in the image). Also remove the woodruff key in the crank as the HPI is a taper fit onto the crank.
The markings made by HPI on the rotor were correct, so i just needed to use a dial gauge to set the timing. Mine is set at 3mm BTDC. There are 2 separate set of markings on the HPI stator, so use the 2nd set of markings, when you consider that the crank/rotor motion is counter clockwise.
The stator connection goes to the CDI, then to the coils and then to the spark plugs. I use the original kill switch, but the polarities are reversed, meaning ON IS OFF and OFF IS ON. Iv seen some posts saying that using a relay will fix this but im ok, i can live with that, I call it theft deterrence (especially since im bad with electronics) :celebrate:
Generally, i found that the bike was much easier to start with the HPI. Not sure about power difference since my bike is not a 100%. Leaks here and there that needs to be fixed first.
Quote from: rd350mississauga on May 20, 2022, 11:30:36 AM
Installation was fairly easy although the included installation manual was very helpful. Take out the existing generator (use the following video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYW1hOxFfOQ
Once you remove the rotor and stator, you will find a small dovel pin which needs to removed with a plier, only then will the HPI stator install correctly aligned. I have attached the image (ITEM NO 14 in the image). Also remove the woodruff key in the crank as the HPI is a taper fit onto the crank.
The markings made by HPI on the rotor were correct, so i just needed to use a dial gauge to set the timing. Mine is set at 3mm BTDC. There are 2 separate set of markings on the HPI stator, so use the 2nd set of markings, when you consider that the crank/rotor motion is counter clockwise.
The stator connection goes to the CDI, then to the coils and then to the spark plugs. I use the original kill switch, but the polarities are reversed, meaning ON IS OFF and OFF IS ON. Iv seen some posts saying that using a relay will fix this but im ok, i can live with that, I call it theft deterrence (especially since im bad with electronics) :celebrate:
Generally, i found that the bike was much easier to start with the HPI. Not sure about power difference since my bike is not a 100%. Leaks here and there that needs to be fixed first.
Thanks for the responses rd350mississauga, Striker1423 and 1976RD400C.
I like the HPI system that can also power lights, cause i would like to have the option for lights if i decide to do something different with the bike.
rd350mississauga are you running a battery on your bike?
Thanks again
I used to be getting 13.8V DC on my RR @2000rpm after ungrounding the coil lead, but not anymore. It's only giving out 5V @ 2000rpm now. I'm trying a bunch of stuff to find what's going wrong.
Others have successfully done it. Ill troubleshoot this summer and if there's still no luck, I'll be running the whole system AC.
if you arent going to run any lights just ground the ac lead. it wont hurt anything. :twocents:
What spark plugs boots are recommend with the HPI ignition? I was planning on running either NGK BR8HIX or BR8HS plugs, which i believe are both resistor plugs. Do i still need to use resistor boots?
those are both resistor plugs, run non resistor caps. If you cant find any, economy cycle carries them.
It's also possible to convert resistor caps to non-resistor by removing the resistor and replacing it with a piece of brass cut down to the same length. Hardware store brass screws (#10-24 or #10-32) can be used for this. This also permits easy switch back to resistor type if needed, as long as you save the parts.
(At least some NGK caps can be disassembled, not sure if that applies to all.) :twocents:
What is the advantage of using non resistor type boot? Does it give better power?
I read on treatlands website that the HPI unit has to be used with resistor type spark plugs or boot, either one, else, it will burn the CDI unit. Im not really good with electronics. Please advise.
https://www.treatland.tv/HPI-CDI-mini-rotor-ignition-system-yamaha-RD350-p/hpi-yamaha-rd350-mini-rotor.htm
The resistor only stops electrical interference that could mess with the CDI. On old cars not using a resistor plug or cap could make the radio reception go crazy.
No power difference, even if you have a resistor plug and boot.
Quote from: rd350mississauga on May 20, 2022, 11:30:36 AM
Installation was fairly easy although the included installation manual was very helpful. Take out the existing generator (use the following video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYW1hOxFfOQ
Once you remove the rotor and stator, you will find a small dovel pin which needs to removed with a plier, only then will the HPI stator install correctly aligned. I have attached the image (ITEM NO 14 in the image). Also remove the woodruff key in the crank as the HPI is a taper fit onto the crank.
The markings made by HPI on the rotor were correct, so i just needed to use a dial gauge to set the timing. Mine is set at 3mm BTDC. There are 2 separate set of markings on the HPI stator, so use the 2nd set of markings, when you consider that the crank/rotor motion is counter clockwise.
The stator connection goes to the CDI, then to the coils and then to the spark plugs. I use the original kill switch, but the polarities are reversed, meaning ON IS OFF and OFF IS ON. Iv seen some posts saying that using a relay will fix this but im ok, i can live with that, I call it theft deterrence (especially since im bad with electronics) :celebrate:
Generally, i found that the bike was much easier to start with the HPI. Not sure about power difference since my bike is not a 100%. Leaks here and there that needs to be fixed first.
rd350mississauga from your reply the correct crank/rotor motion is counter clockwise. Correct?
Yes, crank rotates counter-clockwise.
This one.
im pretty sure i used the marks to the right, not the left to line it up. :umm:
(https://i.ibb.co/hcRsmGH/hpi.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzMBJ0c)
then again i could be wrong. :dawg: :whistle: - my bad
(its been a while)
any videos of a RD with HPI igy to see the headlight power :umm:
Quote from: 2t Fan on September 17, 2022, 05:13:24 AM
any videos of a RD with HPI igy to see the headlight power :umm:
https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/20191103_202604.mp4
found this after a search/ thx
But which LED bulb is used here :umm: :whatever:
Hello all,
Got the HPI flywheel and stator installed. I also timed the bike. I timed the left (clutch) side cylinder. Do I need to do anything for the other cylinder?
Timing mark for left cylinder
nope. you time one side its ready to go. :olaf:
Thanks
I'm installing one of these on a bare minimum type bike. Led Head, tail and brake light and acewell gage. All seem to be dc voltage. Can I just use a regulator of some type on yellow wire before a fuse block and no battery? I'm not great with electrics, thanks
that exaclty how i did the lightweight. just used a trailtech 2 wire regulator and floated ground on the hpi. one lead went to headlight, other went to tail/brake.
Also careful how you mount the trail tech regulator. I floated the ground but I was still measuring low ohms(continuity) between the ungrounded AC volts line and frame ground. The trail tech regulator housing is internally tied to the low side of the regulator. If you mount on an area on the bike that has low resistance to frame ground, it will short out. I used nylon block as an isolator to mount the regulator.
I have used several LED bulbs in the tail light and the best and the brightest I have installed are the super brite 1157s I found at autozone.
mines bolted right to the frame, no issues :umm: . one leg of the regulator goes to 1 ac leg, the other to the other ac leg.
This is where I get confused. Floating grounds, 2 legs?
yes.
theres a write-up in chucks section i think how he did it. Ive been running mine like that for 4 or 5? years now. no issues. the headlight flickers a bit at idle but thats it.
I've seen DC voltage regulators
Seems like what I would like for my application
HPI sells one actually, specifically for their unit. IF i were to go dc, thats the way i would go. 02