Does the board allow a new project to be started and documented before the last one is finished? Asking for a friend...
Tank from Striker1423 (not his real name) in place, Motolana swingarm due any day (Thai post website is all white characters on a white background, so who knows? It'll be here when it gets here) and massaged cylinders and heads coming back from Mr. Ritter this week. Talking with Mr. Garland about rebuilding the crankshaft, and beating the bushes for an RD400 transmission. Getting excited about this, but I will finish the Elsie also; scout's honor (yes, I was a [cub] scout).
Yer a busy boy..
But I feel ya!
ive had like 3 going at one time. lol.
Quote from: 85RZwade on May 17, 2021, 01:35:23 AM
Does the board allow a new project to be started and documented before the last one is finished? Asking for a friend...
Tank from Striker1423 (not his real name) in place, Motolana swingarm due any day (Thai post website is all white characters on a white background, so who knows? It'll be here when it gets here) and massaged cylinders and heads coming back from Mr. Ritter this week. Talking with Mr. Garland about rebuilding the crankshaft, and beating the bushes for an RD400 transmission. Getting excited about this, but I will finish the Elsie also; scout's honor (yes, I was a [cub] scout).
The real question is, does your wife allow it 😜. Or if she's like mine she never really knows how many projects are being worked on. Then all of a sudden one day a bike appears in the garage and she asks "where'd that come from" 😜 That's when I say " I've had that for years, I just finally put it together and got it running" End of story. 😜
Now Joe, there's many things I need to learn as a newly engaged man... So I'm debating on noting this one for the memory banks or not...
I vote better not. She works in HR. I'll be reported to upper level management if I do. :haw:
When I built my TZ replica it was mocked up in my garage for about 4 years in several different iterations while I collected, bought, and built parts for it. Towards the end of the fourth year the mock up was pretty much a complete motorcycle. In the fall of that year my wife and kids that were still home at the time went on vacation for a week. When they got home it was (almost) a ridable motorcycle. 😁 One day my wife asked where that came from. I simply answered "I've had that for 4 years, its been sitting right there the last four years ". 😁
Number of projects isn't the issue in my house, but since she does the books, she sees how much I spend.
Good thing about having Garrett so close is I can avoid the paper trail by paying him in cash. :whoop: :whoop:
It's always easier to ask forgiveness than permission.
As long as I'm spending my money it's all good. I fix up and sell riding mowers to finance my motorcycling, and it's a high-demand year because new mowers are in short supply. Sell a mower, buy a swingarm. Sell a mower, have cylinders ported...rinse and repeat.
I like Joe's approach; are you taking notes, Striker?
The swingarm took a long time, and I had started to worry...then a box showed up with labels I couldn't read!
(https://i.postimg.cc/28mg0fqh/8-E6-D966-B-DA55-4-DE6-BF83-5-DA891847-EB7.jpg)
I agonized over the finish choices, but went with the black. It might influence the colors and finishes going forward with this build.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XKCkfg6/7-BEA60-DA-29-A7-4104-A557-C99273298-BBD.jpg)
Somewhere in Thailand, there is a welder with mad skills.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2t5cXgH/46-A6-D78-C-137-A-4-C24-B3-AE-CD91778-FD019.jpg)
Loving the details! Shock bolts with countersunk heads included, as is a hollow axle. Can't wait to get it home and test fit it in the frame. Supposed to be 72 and sunny today, so the RZ is poised and ready, but if I drove the truck...
One fine work of welding art.
That's going to elevate your entire build.
That looks fantastic Wade!
Kinda does put some pressure on me to meet that level of excellence from here on, doesn't it? Thanks, it keeps making me smile!
Is that for an RD350? Ooooo Me likey.
I wonder about mine now. Since I need a new swingarm anyway.
ive seen a few in silver, never black. thats sweet.
Striker, it's made for an SR500, but the common concensus is that it's easy to modify for the RD. We're going to find out! Can't be worse than fitting an FZ swingarm to an RZ350, right?
Thanks Mark, I agree!
I am quite envious... :righteous: :righteous:
I think that could work on my bike. Damnit!
Quote from: 85RZwade on June 04, 2021, 03:54:01 PM
Striker, it's made for an SR500, but the common concensus is that it's easy to modify for the RD. We're going to find out! Can't be worse than fitting an FZ swingarm to an RZ350, right?
Thanks Mark, I agree!
Did you get the tube that goes in the pivot as well?
No tube, Rodney. It came with the axle and chain adjuster hardware and there are needle bearings installed in the pivot. I figure I'll try the RD and if that doesn't work, ah...punt? Maybe try an SR piece.
This was some info I got from Retard a while back when I was thinking of getting a Motolanna arm.
I can tell you for sure you will need a pivot spacer from an SR500/XT/TT, or IT400 (the part number crosses over to it)
The spacer will be too long though, so I trimmed it to about .010"-.015 longer than the width of the arm so it wouldn't bind. I then used the RD dust caps and maybe even the swingarm shims to dial it in.
Ideally it would be great to find a pivot spacer with the correct width, and correct OD for the Torrington bearings in the swingarm. The pivot spacer is hardened and can be difficult to cut/face to the correct length.
You will also need to make two spacers, ~.250" wide, 16mm ID (same as the pivot bolt, this is from memory but I will confirm) to center the swingarm and take up the extra space between it and the frame. Here you can see the spacer and dust cap on one side:
That's great information, thanks! Sounds like the RD spacer won't work, the SR spacer will be wider than the frame and the swingarm will be narrower. I'd check these things, but I left it at work because I was on the RZ yesterday; I may have to run in to town this morning as the suspense is killing me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/65VSrMtH/22-A2-AF9-D-36-C7-4-A3-B-9-C80-84013-BB32918.jpg)
More goodies arrived today. I may have to put this thing together!
Clutch plates arrived Monday, Partzilla is waiting for a few back orders to fill before shipping, Economy stuff should be here tomorrow, and this arrived from the Independent Kingdom of Treatland yesterday:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZy5kV1Q/56593649-93-EF-4-E10-8507-88-C124-B0897-E.jpg)
I'm going to assemble this project engine first, then chassis. I think it's going to be a nice one :cool:
I LOVE new parts. I love building said parts into a bike. However, I have to take multiple frustration breaks or I get cranky. Looking forward to this one!
Just checked the status of my Partzilla order; the clutch springs should be available today. The same springs I ordered from Economy. I should not shop late at night.
Economy order arrived today: wiring harness, some seals, clutch holding tool, the aforementioned springs...
Couldn't help assembling the clutch on the bench. RD basket, RZ inner hub (same as RD400), friction, steel, friction, steel, etc. RD400 pressure plate that I bought with the transmission, springs, screws...wait. There's another friction plate on the bench just like the 400 one on the stack. I pulled out the RD350 plate: definitely different. Fetched an RZ350 plate: different. What the actual!?! How do I have two RD400 pressure plates? Why did I buy one from the other side of the continent if I had one? It's important to note here that I've never owned an RD400, so there's no reason for having one. I guess I'll never know...
Ok, I know. About this time, I see on the bench with the clutch stack my 350LC crank, transmission...clutch. A slow trip to CMSNL (hillbilly Internet) confirmed that the LC uses the same pressure plate as the RD400, 1A0-16351-00. Same inner hub as the 400 and RZ350, too. Love that parts-bin engineering!
Looks like I have found a front end for this bike...picking up the donor Saturday, and dgorms put me on the trail of an XS650 wheel with aluminum rim on Craigslist. :burnout:
Excellent!!
This is the clutch pressure plate situation I was prattling on about earlier:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvPhjcjn/image.jpg)
The RZ plate has the rectangular hole in the center, the LC and RD400 are the same and what's left is RD350.
These arrived:
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0yYTynG/image.jpg)
Along with some seals (most of which I discovered that I already have) and North America's allotment of clutch springs. More on (moron?) those later.
I plan to search for a jetting baseline and steal Jim's data if I come up with nothing. His Elsie should be close enough to use as a starting point...but that process is a long way off still! I have a bunch of Keihin jets and needles for the Air Striker on my KTM; the needles are NOZ as I recall. I haven't opened these new carburetors yet to see what jetting or needles they have.
Stop teasing me! Lol
what size? 28's? 30's?
28s. I'm trying to be mature and take the advice of those wiser and more experienced than I...so most people.
i would have gone with 30's. however...
jjh needles
42 pilots
155 mains to start. :whistle:
:twocents:
Just like my wife; always there to tell me what I should have done! To be fair, I didn't ask, so I get what I get.
I kindly refer to that as auto correct :whistle:
Brought home to the barn a candidate front end. I say candidate because I'm not sure it's gonna work out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JzH5Pr5m/image.jpg)
1985 VF700F Interceptor donor, 39mm tubes in good condition. Adjustable air pressure, rebound and sorta compression, as its part and parcel of the TRAC anti-dive mechanism. I like the diameter, the general look, the brake calipers and the clip-ons. On the fence about the TRAC and the air adjustment, and put off by the length. They're overall more than 2" longer than RD350 forks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0ktyCWP/image.jpg)
Air pressure balance tube.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KcBV5g2G/image.jpg)
Rebound on the right
(https://i.postimg.cc/fTsPqTzx/image.jpg)
Air on the left, under a cap that looks like an adjuster knob
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXB6wbr3/image.jpg)
Air balance fitting is screwed to the bottom of the upper clamp, so the clip-ons aren't going anywhere unless something is altered with the air system.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yWHNYpf/image.jpg)
Brakes should be more than adequate. Torque Reactive Anti-dive Control in all it's glory.
Then there's that 16" wheel. I might use it at first to determine the viability of the fork itself, but wire spokes are my preference. I need to read up on offset, as I imagine the offset for a 16" wheel is not optimum for an 18", which is where I'd like to end up. Did I mention how freakin' long they are?
dont runt he 16. seen that before, its terrible and sketchy as fuck.
you're going to need to graft an 18 on there soemhow. btw, when serviced correctly, the anti dive trac system actually works well.
I do want to end up with 18" wire spokes! What do you think about the triple clamp offset?
(Siri, what motorcycle has an 18" front wheel, 39mm fork tubes and a super short steering stem?)
my opinion.. youre going to have some work ahead of you. after you swap the stem out, the forks are going to be way long. not even getting into a wheel swap yet.
id skip all this and go with a stockish frontend unless you really want to get deep into fab work.
See, that's what I expected you to say in the first place!
when i put the fzr front end on my bikes it was a huge pia. but worth it and i enjoyed it. I also have access to a mill and a lathe so.. and that was very useful.
Next up: Suzuki SRAD-era conventional forks and my crankshaft should be arriving any minute!
I recently bought a 95% complete SRAD 750 that was sawzoled in half for a movie prop for $200. Sold the motor for $100 and used the wheels, swingarm and suspension on the 83 Katana I am working on. Check fork conversion table on all balls website, but you will probably just need two bottom RD tapered steering bearings and some spacers to make it fit.
What are you thinking fore a front wheel.
Awesome, Rodney! I have that site bookmarked already. I'm still looking at options; pretty sure I want spokes, and I was thinking on the drive home tonight about the CB550K wheels I have. Single disc front and drum out back, and I would have them laced to some nice 18" hoops.
I perhaps foolishly sold my OEM RD hubs (as you know) thinking...I don't remember what I was thinking except that I wasn't going to use them. I don't want to build a 'tracker, but I was also thinking about this tonight:
(https://i.postimg.cc/6pjJfZV6/KZ.jpg)
Already has a disc but it's 19" and I'd have to come up with a rear to match, which could be tricky. Maybe I'll go look at the 550 wheels before bed...
And then, I had an epiphany! Maybe it was a minor stroke; I don't know. Anyway, that KZ650 front wheel is a 19x2.15, single disc with threaded holes for another disc (sprocket?). I realized that there's a KZ1000 in the barn with a similar front wheel: 19x1.85 with two discs. I quickly slipped the Motolana swingarm in place, went through an act of Congress to get the wheel off the 650, and voila!:
(https://i.postimg.cc/cLgPcDQK/539987-C1-83-A8-4-AD5-A22-C-E5-AF00-B9-A818.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxTbTq6W/356-A58-C5-BC6-A-42-B1-B1-FE-E0-F745-C71359.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vvf3BmR1/FE194-E9-C-2-FCA-4857-A12-F-7-F56-F608-A676.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfPWmhrq/6881-E41-D-6-C1-A-4861-9998-3-CE9-A98-D8-B15.jpg)
That last one is all artsy, right? So a 19" 110-series wheel and tire fits just fine all the way forward in the swingarm. With the narrower KZ1000 front wheel up front, I'd have matching 7-spoke cast wheels of slightly wider-than-stock widths running tubeless tires...sweet! :angel:
But wait! Remember, I said I wanted wire spokes, right? In front of the KZ1000 is a '78 CB550K with nothing better to do than donate it's wheels...:
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLXMjCF1/CB-f.jpg)
19x1.85 with 40 spokes
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTkd3Z7m/CB-r.jpg)
18x1.85, also 40 spokes. So I could also have wire spoked wheels with a single disc in front and a drum in the rear, but there'd be that weird-Alice 19-inch front, with 40 freakin' spokes!
I'm not done! Back to the boneyard...remember this stray that followed me home?
(https://i.postimg.cc/MGXV3J6r/image.jpg)
'72 Suzuki TC125, 18xwho cares rear wheel, drum brake, cush drive sprocket and 36 spokes:
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4hfs705/A73424-AE-9-B98-452-F-AABC-685-D5452-E8-B8.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9X13Xwmf/730-A1-E2-D-825-C-4161-9-C8-D-ACC2-AE2-B836-E.jpg)
What's significant about 36 spokes, you ask? Something else has 36, but you knew that:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3NXQXb1z/RD.jpg)
The RD rear wheel is 18x1.85, and although I sold the hub, I still have the rim. Bear with me, now: CB550 front hub laced to CB550 18x1.85 rear rim and TC125 rear hub laced to RD350 18x1.85 rear rim. I'd have two 18" wire-spoked wheels, a disc in front and a drum out back, just as Yamaha intended. Is a rear hub from a 125 adequate for a breathed-on 350 twin? No, really, I'm asking...
Do you need some 350 hubs?
One must be careful when cross-breeding species that you don't start something that can't be stopped. The little 125 hub looks a bit small for this, although it IS just a rear. Would have to work beyond design and be watched for overheating. Maybe pair it with dual front disks? How was the 125 regarded back in the day for its rear braking ability?
Joe: maybe. I'm still blatantly violating your signature line! Some would call it "weighing my options". Since I'm not using RD forks or an RD swingarm, I don't feel that RD hubs are necessary.
pidjones: I have reservations about the size of that Suzuki hub as well, and I don't know the history of the TC. I've spent most of my mad money on carburetors, ignition, swingarm, engine work for the RD and engine parts and work for the LC. Back to looking at what I have on hand. More on this later.
Quote from: 85RZwade on July 05, 2021, 09:17:34 AM
Joe: maybe. I'm still blatantly violating your signature line! Some would call it "weighing my options". Since I'm not using RD forks or an RD swingarm, I don't feel that RD hubs are necessary.
Not to tell you what to do because the choice is entirely yours but I'd use RD stuff just to simplify it. Use RD400 forks with Racetech emulators and springs and you'll have a pretty nice front end.
^ He's right you know.
Modern running gear, maybe, but no way would I be bolting 70's Kwak and Honda junk on my RD.
I guess the KZ 19's would be appropriate for a "street tracker" style build, but if you're going to go to the trouble of lacing wheels, seems like sourcing proper RD350B hubs would be worth the effort
XS360 used basically the same rear wheel as the RD350
And then, I realized that the GSX-R axle is 25mm, almost as big as the O.D. of RD wheel bearings. Forget all that earlier wheel rambling; I'd have to have a new axle made or use needle bearings...and I might yet talk to the local machine shop about an axle. In the meantime, I allowed myself to look at the Cognito Moto site and I might be in big trouble. Of course, they have already solved my problem with a custom spoked hub, bearings, spacers, spokes and rim of choice for just $900. The budget-minded among us can opt for the bare hub at only $400, and pick up the spacers, bearings, etc. ala carte. Gulp.
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/gsx-r-conversion/products/bolt-on-laced-wheel-for-gsx-r-fork-1996-2017-complete?variant=2959129182248 (https://cognitomoto.com/collections/gsx-r-conversion/products/bolt-on-laced-wheel-for-gsx-r-fork-1996-2017-complete?variant=2959129182248)
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/gsx-r-conversion/products/1996-2000-gsx-r600-gsx-r750-srad-hub-bolt-on-conversion-laced-wheel?variant=11056925377 (https://cognitomoto.com/collections/gsx-r-conversion/products/1996-2000-gsx-r600-gsx-r750-srad-hub-bolt-on-conversion-laced-wheel?variant=11056925377)
Might be easier to make a sleeve for the gsxr wheel so you can use the smaller axle.
I got lucky and found a cognito moto setup with a matching rear wheel for sale on craigslist, conveniently at the exact same time somebody else listed a GSXR front end.
I REALLY like what you're doing with this project. I'm really eager to see how that swingarm performs and holds up, and if it's worth getting. :cheers:
Me, too! No buyer's remorse yet; it really is a nice piece in person. Would it be too much black to have the fork sliders anodized to match the swingarm :like: or :dislike:
I guess that depends what color you're going to paint the tank, and if you're going for an overall "dark" aesthetic. If you arent, I might leave them aluminum to brighten the bike up a bit.
The wheel saga appears to be at an end; I've made a choice. A quick trip to Portland to see the man, the mystery, the legend himself...known here as pdxjim, has yielded a set of hoops from his Yamaha TDR250. I can now reveal to all who have wondered thus far his true identity: his real name is Jim.
Spoked aluminum wheels, each accommodating one brake disc, in widths appropriate for a project such as this: 2.15x18 and 2.50x17. Yeah, the rear is a 17", so "appropriate" may have been a stretch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzZGdVgy/image.jpg)
I'm pretty chuffed. I have been investigating brake discs (that one on the front is suspected of warpage), and EBC has suitable offerings.
Need to find: a cush drive from a TDR, TZR or FZR400, a sprocket and an 18" 2.5 aluminum rim with 36 holes. In gold, preferably a D.I.D. to match the front.
(https://i.postimg.cc/63YWw0d4/image.jpg)
That is sexy, ancient tire and all! The new phone book is here and I'm somebody!
Thanks to Jim and quicklimegirl, whom I visited on the way home. She's got a fine stable of bikes in her garage!
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wjrf7NB/image.jpg)
:clap:
solid choice
Yassss
That front disc looks suspiciously like an FZR400/600 or first year YZF600 brake disc, for crossover purposes.
It's the same as the FZR1000, and a whole bunch of Ducatis and Moto Guzzis. It looks freakin' huge (I have'nt measured it) and I love it.
I have sought the advice of he who knows wire spoked wheels (Nathan), and have a query in with Buchanan regarding availability of a suitable rim.
In the meantime, a late-night internet crawl has yielded a purchase from Speedmotoco in Oregon (you're welcome, Jim) of a headlight w/GPS speedometer, a tach, headlight mounting brackets and some UNI pods for the Elsie's VM30s. Someone really should take my VISA card away.
320mm
Quote from: pdxjim on August 25, 2021, 03:36:46 AM
320mm
Ah/ Not FZR600 as those are 300mm diameter. Here's a list of rotors that conceivably fit, especially as the TDR is listed:
http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1853
:good: thanks for the link, that's a great list
Wade, the build is looking great. How well did the swing arm fit, mods that had to be made?
Russ
Thanks, Russ, it's going pretty well but feels slow...y'know, life and all. The swingarm is not a big deal, as it's narrower at the pivot than the RD frame. I'm using the RD pivot bolt/axle and bushing, and I've almost finished two collars in my silly little lathe to fit on each side of the swingarm pivot; I think they're 7mm each. A little shimming to get the fit just right and I'll be there.
Meanwhile, at the front...
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKKnZjC1/image.jpg)
The '97 GSX-R 600 uses the same fork legs as the TL1000S (remember those?), so the TL caliper had to fit, and it does. I'll know for sure when I finish the wheel spacers, but I may not have to shim the rotor at all! I calculated that the six 27mm pistons will give best results with a 14mm master cylinder, but I have a 5/8" Nissin master just sitting around getting old, so I'm going to try it first. Somewhere in the barn I have RZ and LC master cylinders, so I'll see what size(s) they are before I spend any (more) $$ on master cylinders. :nana: :metal: :righteous:
:umm: really expected to take some crap over the six-piston caliper!
Aluminum arrived today for making wheel spacers; very kind of Suzuki to make the bore in the fork legs 1.25"! I have a good idea of the wheel spacer design in my noggin, but I'm a little hung up on retaining the spacers within the fork legs. Once assembled, only the clamping force of the pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork legs will keep the spacer/axle/wheel from moving axially.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHWG9tg3/image.jpg)
I like the idea of internal circlips in the fork leg bores, trapping the spacers, but I don't know how I'd make the grooves. I could use external snap rings on the O.D. of the spacers, just against the inside surface of the fork leg, but that looks ugly in my head. Anyone have brilliant ideas to share?
Sorry I can't help with the engineering conundrum, but the barn hay really is adding to the authentic vibe of your build, Wade.
It wasn't easy arranging all that hay for the photos, but I think the results are worth the effort. I'd like to get my barn cat involved, but he's not what you'd call cooperative. Look for old implements in future pics!
ive done all this before, ive never had to use c slips to hold stuff in.. they wont go anywhere when pinched down.
I have 4 of those 6 piston calipers. havent gotten around to using one... yet. they are ludicrous but i like them. :bacon:
I get it. I tried, truly tried to buy a 4-piston...but $30 for over-the-top stupid braking was irresistible
Stoppies are in your future. Make sure the tank doesn't flop off and add to it's character anymore! :haw:
But seriously, this thing is gonna be epic.
the only reason i haven't used one was 1 it didn't fit on one bike, the other was weight. I'll use em eventually. :devil:
Wade.....Don't be so, uh.... "frugal"!...........................D :whistle:
Stoppies? Yes, maybe. I do enjoy them on the KTM! And I prefer the word thrifty, Dennis. Actually, I've been referring to this as a TL1000S caliper, but it's come to my attention that the R model used the 6-pot front binders. I learned this when the EBC pads I bought clearly weren't right, and subsequent research showed my late-night eBay error. Does anybody need a set of organic FA158s?
6 pistons is a lot for a little/light bike but nothing exceeds like excess or so I hear.
Going back to the axle conundrum for a moment, have you looked at a stock OEM axle? They have a flange on one side and threaded sleeve at the other end. That's how they are located laterally. I'd see if it's possible to get suitable bearings to fit the OEM axle or machine that rod to take threaded end cap spacers on both ends.
I wish I had the spacers started to photograph, but I'll try the 1000 words approach for now! I bought an OEM GSX-R axle, which provided education but isn't directly useful to me, as it is 25mm O.D., which is very nearly the O.D. of the bearings in the hub. Not a suitable application for needle bearings. TDR hub uses a 15mm axle, and I found a suitable axle in my hoard with a flanged head and a castle nut. The current plan is to make spacers out of the aluminum bar stock pictured above, each of which will be clamped in a fork leg and extend from the outside edge of the fork leg to the inner bearing race. The axle and castle nut will live completely inside the spacers and only be visible from the left and right ends, clamping the spacers to the wheel. I believe I'll need to measure from the fork leg to the rim to center the wheel, unless I A) come up with something like the aforementioned snap ring scheme, or B) buy bigger bar stock and create a flange on at least one spacer like Suzuki did. Trusting the fork pinch bolts concerns me some, but maybe I'd feel better if I safety wired 'em. Any suggestions welcome and appreciated!
Cut the adapters you make (on one side long ways) so they pinch down on the axle when you tighten the lower fork clamps and you'll be fine. :gentleman:
I see the vision
The perfect compliment to the TDR 18-inch front rim was on eBay: a gold D.I.D. 2.50x18 36-hole beauty, allegedly an HRC part! Regrettably, it was $245, plus about $40 shipping from the Netherlands and possibly import duties. I couldn't pull the trigger and was looking for other options...and the auction abruptly ended. It came back, nearly identical, but now the rim is silver :bang:
Seriously considering a move to Excel, color match be damned. Chaparral has an Excel of the appropriate size on eBay, but there's no mention of spoke count. Chaparral doesn't accept questions regarding their auction items! Maybe I'll call them Tuesday; that should be successful :shocked:
Easy Off oven cleaner will take the old gold ano off easily
Ain't no way I'm spraying over cleaner on that rim! Gotta be a solution to this problem. Remember this?:
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgBpC7Rb/F96-BD498-5977-41-CB-BFDB-227-B1-CB1-DB88.jpg)
GT750 at a local shop, my man Bill can't get it to fire on #1 cylinder. No matter to me, I stopped in today and noticed it's got a D.I.D 3.00x18 36-hole gold rim on the back! Damn, Gina! There's a 130-something Pirelli on there, and it looks good. No, I can't buy the rim, but maybe a 3.00x18 might be easier to find? Dramatic renewal of purpose!
I like your style, kid.
I want a GT750 :(
I spy a Z1-R in the background, maybe a TC , or clone. Either way its there.
Good eye Rusty!
Good eye Rusty!
Yes, I was told it was a real TC. Nice, clean bike
Mike's XS sells a 2.5" rim, so I bought one because I couldn't find a 3.00 for an upcoming TZ250 project. That said I slipped a pair of gold DID rims onto the Phat Trakka when I built it, and the rear is 3.0 x 18 x 36 and came off a TZ350 rear wheel I had lying around. That's a DID drop center rim and Buchanans were able to supply stainless spokes to match the rim and hub. Front is a matching 2.15 x 18 IIRC and both are 36 holes.
I'd sell you the Phat Trakka but that's an expensive way to buy rims..... :whistle:
What's the story with that GT750 in your earlier post? It looks interesting. And it has a set of Bassani exhausts on it..
I just made an offer on a YZ490 wheel with a gold 2.50 18 with 36 spokes. It's going to need to be anodized again, but I think I have that solved.
That GT has been at a local shop for a couple of YEARS. The owner of the shop is sick of it and told the owner of the bike to come and get it. He has, he thinks, over 37 hours into it and doesn't know why it "won't fire on the #1 cylinder". He's asked me to try my hand at it twice, but I don't have any interest if it's not mine. It's got some nice bits on it, like the rims. The rear is the above mentioned DID 3.00, but the front had no markings. It's probably a 2.15, also gold and a different design than the rear.
Quote from: 85RZwade on September 10, 2021, 12:33:57 AM
I just made an offer on a YZ490 wheel with a gold 2.50 18 with 36 spokes. It's going to need to be anodized again, but I think I have that solved.
That GT has been at a local shop for a couple of YEARS. The owner of the shop is sick of it and told the owner of the bike to come and get it. He has, he thinks, over 37 hours into it and doesn't know why it "won't fire on the #1 cylinder". He's asked me to try my hand at it twice, but I don't have any interest if it's not mine. It's got some nice bits on it, like the rims. The rear is the above mentioned DID 3.00, but the front had no markings. It's probably a 2.15, also gold and a different design than the rear.
I'd buy it if it wasn't a huge expense. You could have the rim too lol
Quote from: 85RZwade on September 10, 2021, 12:33:57 AM
I just made an offer on a YZ490 wheel with a gold 2.50 18 with 36 spokes. It's going to need to be anodized again, but I think I have that solved.
That GT has been at a local shop for a couple of YEARS. The owner of the shop is sick of it and told the owner of the bike to come and get it. He has, he thinks, over 37 hours into it and doesn't know why it "won't fire on the #1 cylinder". He's asked me to try my hand at it twice, but I don't have any interest if it's not mine. It's got some nice bits on it, like the rims. The rear is the above mentioned DID 3.00, but the front had no markings. It's probably a 2.15, also gold and a different design than the rear.
Pity it's so far from here. They are big and heavy but really simple design. Can't be too hard to work out what's wrong with it. Difference is that some of us have piles of parts and experience with old bikes and many mechanics don't have the time or the parts to work on old stuff.
Good that you found a source for the rim you want.
Thanks guys! The YZ wheel is mine; anybody need or want a YZ490 hub?
I put a dial indicator on the TDR250 front rotor this morning:
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yCpp9Vb/21302319-DF13-46-FC-9-A5-B-3-AF25542-F6-B5.jpg)
Will I be able to feel.005"?
I'm pretty thrifty, I can't see why I would've replaced it unless it was annoying
There is a small amount of free play between the aluminum carrier and the iron disk. It might straighten up in use and if not, it isn't likely to be a problem.
I decided to play it safe and ordered new EBC discs, front and rear, as well as pads for the 6-pot.
So, I've jumped back here from a discussion I started about Tarozzis elsewhere seeking wisdom. That query (I used it in a sentence) yielded some great and appealing ideas that got me thinking outside of the box. Jim provided links to a couple of fantastic upper triple clamps, which led me back to Cognito moto, and another great bolt-on solution for installing fat bars on this ride. It's fun buying cool parts, but a night's sleep has brought me back to the ideal of using what I have (read: already paid for). Thought about Rodney's suggestion of welding blocks to the underside of the triple clamp and removed said clamp to see what's there:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hxgy0T7G/image.jpg)
That's the aluminum bar stock I'm using to make wheel spacers. I have two threaded holes that I imagine located the Suzuki clip-ons, and two threaded towers for the ignition switch. This morning's brainstorm is to cut those towers down to the same plane as the clip-on holes and use the four holes to bolt a plate to the bottom of the clamp. A slice of the bar stock would be sandwiched between the plate and upper triple clamp at each handlebar clamp location, and I'll drill holes through the clamp-bar stock-plate assembly to mount fat bar clamps. I think that'll be a solid installation without hiring a TIG welder (no, I still don't own one :sad:), and the plate can be an attachment point for the cute little tachometer I bought (see: "It's fun buying cool parts" above) cable guides, etc. Fat bar clamps are plentiful on the 'bay, from stupid cheap up to not terribly expensive, so I'm forging ahead with fat bars!
that will definitely work. nice clean solution as well. :gentleman:
:celebrate: awesome, I'll put a check mark next to that plan. Ordered mounts, 'bars and grips today :Clown:
Headlight brackets and THIS arrived today:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjYBWWbd/F6062-CF8-40-A1-438-E-88-FC-3053-E9-D3929-F.jpg)
Gold, 36 spokes, 2.50x18 D.I.D...wearing a paddle tire!
From Speedmotoco in Oregon:
(https://i.postimg.cc/nc5Zk7J7/5-BAA5964-BB40-4-CC7-A12-A-44-BF8-B254-D1-B.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NjbLgZb/3-F6-B473-A-FCC9-4-B86-9149-27-EBDE062308.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdMvNHyL/E9-BF6-CB1-2-D9-B-47-FC-BC0-E-1-CD8055-C2769.jpg)
LED headlight with built-in GPS speedometer. I'm pretty happy with it, but the top triple clamp had a ring to surround the ignition switch and posts to mount said switch that were in the way, so out came Mr. Hacksaw...
(https://i.postimg.cc/QdTDnt8z/99-EF79-E8-544-A-4-D26-B8-A0-EE2-D7381-B51-F.jpg)
Also the first step in the handlebar riser scheme. More material to be removed with a die grinder burr, but I need more paraffin wax.
That's all good, but after all these recent acquisitions, I checked into my account at the credit union:
(https://images.stockfreeimages.com/1534/sfixl/15342234.jpg)
It appears that I need to devote more energy to making wheel spacers, assembling engines and getting the work done with what I have. No more late-night eBay. Shim the swingarm instead. Forget about the cool bar-end mirrors, make a rear caliper carrier bracket. Good stuff like that.
Your account looks real similar to mine... Sans GME paying off... eventually lol.
You kids and your abbreviations! Yes, I had to Google GME; I remember now.
Brother.. your yoke chopping is a reminder of my race bike building..
When some freind told me I couldn't put a cbr600 front end on a ex250..
My response was.. "hold my beer"
:stupid-1: more on that later, Scott!
Today I hid from the rain and dismounted the paddle tire from the YZ490 wheel I bought, and brought it together with the TDR250 wheel. Both D.I.D 2.50, 36-hole rims, so they're the same...or so I thought.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvnfKzQj/C2-A15-D3-C-EAA8-4-FD3-A233-D4-CEC1-F75-AD6.jpg)
The TDR rim is a delicate flower compared to the open-class dirt bike piece. What a brute.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRW7Dn3Q/EAF90929-7-A04-45-A7-9845-1-FA1-B802-C222.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0sCnNxd/EA4-F9-ABF-C623-4524-ABC4-3-B791-D6713-DE.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZTDWj4g/F51-C882-A-9-AA0-46-E7-8-B41-A2820-D20-E7-FE.jpg)
So I'll clean up the YZ rim and address the worst of the scratches before having it anodized again, and hopefully get it pretty close to the same color as the front. Both rear wheels gotta come apart first...
...and to that end, I'd like to not destroy the spokes or nipples in the process. Don't you hate it when the can of panther piss loses it's propellant and you can still feel all those expensive chemicals in there?
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgCmW2gp/34-DA3054-0960-4324-B371-0680-AAEA8660.jpg)
I can't bring myself to throw them out. Finally, I have a use for these traitorous containers:
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmq2zf19/C0-FABC8-E-A241-4-A8-D-BAF2-391-FCFE37-A8-C.jpg)
Motorcycle wheel hot tub party! I figure I'll turn it every day, 3 spokes submerged at a time, 36 spokes...it'll be awhile. But I'm still making wheel spacers and steering head bearing spacers, etc, so what's the rush? Better than cursing at seized nipples (make your own joke).
Just got a text that my handlebars are in! Looks like I'm going to town today, after all :celebrate:
The top triple clamp metamorphosis:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SsYzJ2wk/0-CAFC586-F90-F-4-B04-B1-E5-722-F63-EFC316.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TY6W3PQv/39-D8-F359-3-EB9-4-CB4-8522-032-CB34-E4803.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FztkcF4c/7-DE735-D0-AB40-40-B8-88-FB-66-F836-D46103.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zkJLnqy/9-E7-EA380-E2-FA-48-BA-BFB7-92-E174-E3-B641.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NBwkdXV/48385419-9-D7-F-4-EA3-ABE8-A5-EEA0200523.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gtk8j0Lf/578-AE5-FE-63-AB-424-D-A942-BFDD574-DF598.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZRQwB7Y/CE4-A958-A-0-C92-4878-9402-96-EC9-F6366-C1.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cH3rsqnJ/9-CE44501-6-C30-4-D98-B429-86-EE9-F7-C8-D3-C.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTdDTPrt/862-E1458-F47-D-4087-BEC5-89-E91-C1-D44-F4.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwhdjNTq/EE1-ED0-D8-5-E94-4-F5-E-B750-84884-CD0-BDAA.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBZ18x3P/3-BF2-CE6-B-4-ACE-45-B9-A775-A64660101-C44.jpg)
The metamorphosis isn't visible.
PM
is there a spacer on the clamp mounting bolts between the new plate and the tree? I hope so. looks great btw. :cheerleader:
:haw: thanks, man! There WILL be spacers, but I haven't made 'em yet. I have a piece chucked in the lathe for a triple clamp spacer presently. Getting closer all the time...
The soaking routine worked very well and every nipple unscrewed without incident. Last moment as a TDR wheel assembly:
(https://i.postimg.cc/VsgQyjj3/297-C45-B5-492-E-4-DDB-81-BB-7-DADAF2-EAD5-F.jpg)
Got an Excel rim from my new best friend Mark (not that Mark) that I like better than the YZ item; it's much lighter and the color match is pretty good:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNK0mJdj/9-A6-A144-C-595-D-4930-9-FC4-9-D573-AF714-B6.jpg)
Excel on the right, with the sticker and TDR D.I.D on the left. And what it'll look like once the spokes get here and we lace:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NKhybKg/9-E4-B0-DB7-0-F5-B-41-FD-BF15-CD4857-AB15-E5.jpg)
Yeah, not the most dramatic transformation ever! Moving forward...
2.50x17, 36 hole D.I.D gold rim for sale!
Good news: my rear brake disc arrived from China today
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QMNhz7B/12-FB62-C2-5932-47-E4-B606-E5-D2-A12-C8-E8-D.jpg)
And it fits! Sweet. This is the caliper I'm considering:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqXjZ056/B821-F0-DF-C906-4716-8-F49-BAA9-E67-DAA7-E.jpg)
It's from a quad, I think a Honda. I like the look of the line coming in the side, and a twin-piston setup at the rear will help make up for the feeble parts out front :rolleyes:.
Bad news: I can't get into postimages with my iPad and it's incredibly frustrating and difficult to post pictures on my iPhone! You wouldn't believe how long it took to post those two pics above, and the cussing involved :bang:
I've been looking at seats a lot, and I keep thinking about this bike:
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0318/1687/6091/files/venicesr500-img_1647billyj_sr1_large.jpeg?v=1599541342)
SR500 built for Billy Joel by Mick Woolaway. I really like the seat and upturned rear frame look. I have my eye on that front fender as well...
(https://postimg.cc/jWHLfXzB)
I like the seat on that SR.
... and, an SR500 just won the Bol d'Oregon 6hr Endurance.
Coincidence or kismet?
Quote from: 85RZwade on October 06, 2021, 10:59:37 PM
Good news: my rear brake disc arrived from China today
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QMNhz7B/12-FB62-C2-5932-47-E4-B606-E5-D2-A12-C8-E8-D.jpg)
Did that come direct in the mail?
I have had a few things from china recently that were mailed via England.
Nothing direct about it! Orange connex got it as far as California, then FedEx brought it to the Chehalis post office, and our smiling U.S. mail carrier brought it to me at work.
found this in a shed while looking for fencing material, and I think I kinda like it for the RD:
(https://i.postimg.cc/GmbnxDm3/DDD2127-D-D571-4-EC1-9-D45-1-F45-A0-EC9926.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLGV87Y6/41-B8-A413-CA4-B-4-EDB-B5-ED-7-B92577-CAA40.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4DQSgs3/0-AB75896-ABF2-451-C-A11-C-3064199-DC43-D.jpg)
My reservation is that, other than being a 46-year-old motorcycle to begin with, nothing is really retro about it in my eyes and I wonder if the taillight will look out of place. And to be clear, it's not an expensive modern reproduction of an old automotive light; it's a real, old, rusty automotive taillight. I think if I clean it up, blast & repaint the housing and maybe replace the sockets it'll be pretty neat.
I like it, and think that fits in with the cafe theme better IMO than most little beady led stop lights you see on many builds.
Thanks, my man! The taillight is kinda in limbo; I asked she-who-actually-inherited-the-taillight-from-her-grandfather :clint: if it was OK to stick it on a project bike and she said: maybe. :bang: All together now, please turn to page 9 of the husband handbook, halfway down the page: It is Sometimes Better to Apologize Than to Ask Permission.
In other news, I gave $$ to Buchanan today, and my rear wheel spokes should ship :ups: in a day or two. Getting closer to having wheels under this bad motor scooter. :burnout:
I think you should re-read that line. It reads "Sometimes it is EASIER to ask Forgiveness than Permission." Plus preparation of appropriate Sorry Gifts and Potential Defensive Retreat locations is wise. Consider such staements as "Gramps would be so proud". BTW, dont blast and repaint - clean and clear coat to maintain the well-earned patina.
I think you're right! Good advice :like:
Hmmm Lets look at this, did she know where it was? when she sees how good it looks all will be well. :help:
She knew nothing of its existence before I opened my pie hole. Now I don't want to invest any time cleaning it up if it turns out I just have to put it back in the drawer :whatever:
I'm taking my youngest son hunting this weekend, so there will be no project progress for a few days. Again, :whatever:
Every day we still continue to learn, well maybe she will forget about again :whistle:
I like the direction your build is heading.
I would find a way to clean and mount that lamp on a small wooden stand to act as a night light at home, so your wife can remember her ancestors.
An RD is totally the wrong style bike to mount that rather nice prior period piece IMHO.
For something more period, maybe a Lucas tail lamp from a similar year might be whimsical enough and an nice reminder that Lucas was known as the prince of darkness and many people see motorcycles in general and two strokes in particular that way.
Had the house to myself last night, so I went to the barn. Waiting on steering head bearings, front axle spacers and the lacing of the rear wheel to get wheels under this thing, so I was going to assemble the engine. Took some time to FIND the cases, and not all is well with them:
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4NcCKwx/RDupper-case.jpg)
OK, well, the upper half looks fine. It't the lower that makes me :omg:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Cxq9Q6b0/RDlower-case.jpg)
I think I threw up a little bit in my mouth. Once again, my long-term storage procedures have proven to be lacking. How does the hivemind suggest I address this transgression?
Quote from: 85RZwade on October 23, 2021, 10:37:16 AM
I think I threw up a little bit in my mouth. Once again, my long-term storage procedures have proven to be lacking. How does the hivemind suggest I address this transgression?
Scotchbrite pad and oil, followed by a scrub with dawn dish soap and a good rinse. Wipe the bearing surface down with 2t and rip it.
Thanks, Striker!
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3ydjGwd/659-B1251-7933-4749-8761-76-FBCA9371-A9.jpg)
:thumbs:
Just arrived from Greece:
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYTVQhGw/914559-CA-C46-E-4142-8-CE5-52-A730-A526-BC.jpg)
One TDR sprocket carrier. So close to having a complete rear wheel!
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTVtxVHP/802-FC068-0-F53-4-BC3-8-EB0-02-A365-DA4-B30.jpg)
We're all in our places with bright, shiny faces. RD400 transmission in place with new bearings and seals, cohabitating with rebuilt crank. Cannot find any suitable sealant on the premises, so the top case has to wait...and I SO wanted to put the pistons and cylinders on today :sad:
Handed the TDR hub, Tagasako rim and Buchanan spokes off to my man Denny last night for truing. We've been trying to get together for weeks to do the wheel together, but he keeps taking on weekend shifts...something about not wanting to eat cat food when he retires? Anyway it'll get done and I can get wheels under this thing; new tubes and rim strips arrived today, along with brass for the PWKs and extra sparking bolts (Treatland 15% sale). Steering head bearings from All Balls are here, so I'm rapidly running out of excuses!
Oh, and I am selling my DGs; they just don't move me. I am in love with the bare steel, welded-cone design, like:
(http://suprememotos.com/slir/w739-q100/path/to/http://suprememotos/uploads/postfotos/yamaha-rd350-r5-rd400-expansion-chambers-race-style-exhausts-stainlesssteel-1.JPG)
These appear to exist in pictures only, as the place in Hungary that offered them is seemingly no more. I also like:
(https://img.scoop.it/8sAKllEC26WgilzA0WQhk4XXXL4j3HpexhjNOf_P3YmryPKwJ94QGRtDb3Sbc6KY)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KPAAAOSw5ohekedD/s-l300.jpg)
(https://www.samurider.com/wp-content/uploads/fr001__5.jpg)
See a pattern? The Fukais are cheating, as I don't think they offer a set for the air-cooled RD. Also digging the Jemco product, but not what I want for this bike. Kenny might make a set, but he's having some setbacks right now, and Jolly Motos are a grand. What am I missing guys, is there anything else?
Wade, first of all , your a good sport. :bacon: I submit for your consideration the Spec2 F1 pipes.
Give Roger Allen at Wicked motorsports a call. His website sucks, but he makes RD pipes
Better to call him? I sent an email earlier this week; no answer yet.
Pity this guy does not live in North America, although the banshee guys still buy from him.
Pieter Verhoef, lives in cape Town South Africa
Pretty sure he could make a killer pipe for an RD if he could get a bike for measurements. His welding is just amazing.
Absolutely beautiful!
You want stingers, I'll show you stingers! The skills required just to lay those out is amazing.
:sad: It could have gone better :sad:
Toiled all day yesterday with chores and wrapping Christmas presents, so I felt I'd earned some time to work on the RD today. Gotta get wheels under this thing, so I returned to the front wheel spacers that had me stymied. I had borrowed a drill bit just under 15mm from work, having decided to just drill the thing out and then bore it to a nice, snug fit on the axle. Many chips later:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MyJ1kjL/C30-D999-A-F624-4-AA8-AA46-EBDC8-F2-ED0-B1.jpg)
And there was much swearing. The end nearest the headstock is way off center and not close enough for axle work :'(
Close enough for a spacer inside the triple clamp, though, so I lopped that fcuker off and trimmed it to length to fit between my top triple clamp and the plate I made for the underside of the clamp:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3N79qZ8Y/BD67046-F-0-C3-F-4396-9-E70-CDFF6744561-B.jpg)
It had warmed up to 36 degrees and I hadn't made a fire in the barn woodstove, so my nose and toes were cold. I'll make the other triple clamp spacer another day, and I still have plenty of aluminum bar stock for front wheel spacers...but I think it's time to suck it up and hire a real machinist to bore them. My little lathe is just not accurate enough for this.
In other news, the rear wheel is laced and trued; I just need to trim the ends of some spokes yet. The swingarm is ready to go in, then I can work on rear wheel spacers, a caliper hanger and chain alignment.
As much as I love Mark's Speed of Cheese rearsets, I am looking at making my own out of FZ600 parts that I have, like I did for the Elsie project. New seals, bushings, O-rings and a manual are on the way for the GSX-R forks. Still agonizing over seat options; I really like the Texavina, but wonder if I could have one made locally on the stock seat base with a bit smaller hump for the same or less $$.
What size is the axle?
I bought some spacers from Lowbrow customs. Quite a few choices for diameter and widths.
I just cut the closest size pieces to correct length on a lathe.
I'm using a 15mm axle, same as the TDR, but the GSX-R used a 25mm axle. My spacers are more than 3" long, clamped by the fork legs, and extend from the wheel bearing out to the outside edge of the fork leg. If I had something assembled, I'd give you a picture. It's coming soon.
Is 5/8" id too big for the axle?
Yeah, 5/8=15.88mm. But I will check out that site!
It's like Christmas already! Picked up some goodies this morning:
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5fntvRc/C96568-E2-2-F1-F-4178-BFD3-6-BCB4-B222-B22.jpg)
Bushings for the GSX-R forks and Yamaha neutral switch O-rings
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwsW-t83y/A8-E5-CD56-853-F-4-E40-965-C-2773-EEF6-ACB5.jpg)
OEM Suzuki manual for $17, so I put the forks together correctly
(https://i.postimg.cc/7PCBww7W/599-DBA3-F-8670-4-D83-B3-B4-7-CA2931-F19-D8.jpg)
The timing set from DesmoDrew. Just lovely. I love wooden boxes!
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVGKrp5h/41-DA2-FCC-9568-4301-9-FC5-E14-F807-EEA00.jpg)
So tiny...
And the Lomas pipes should arrive Tuesday, same day I hope to sell the DGs (got a buyer from my Craigslist ad already!)
Very nice! :clap:
Eventually, the parts reach critical mass, the one that you have waited for to trigger assembly. Then, magic happens!
Man, I am so ready for that! My goal is to be riding this bike this spring
:clap: delivered the DGs to their new owner today; we met before, at the 2020 Angry Bees ride. JLs are 44% paid for!
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpp8SZW0/BC913988-439-D-4400-821-C-5-BE0-B6-F993-B8.jpg)
pipes in a box???
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG3KM8bC/7-C1-DEBC5-19-A9-49-EB-B329-B28-F30-F8360-E.jpg)
Not anymore! :love eyes:
They are really fat and I love them.
:nana: :nana: :nana: :nana: :metal: :metal: :metal: :metal: :olaf: :olaf: :olaf: :olaf: :celebrate: :celebrate: :celebrate: :celebrate:
SUHHHWEEEEEETTTTTTTT
Thank you, I'm really pleased with them. Downside: barrels aren't painted yet, bottom end isn't in the frame, so I can't run out to the barn and mock them in place! It's 37 degrees and dropping, but I'd do it anyway! :toot:
Gotta buy some Mop'N'Glow tomorrow!
4 coats on and hanging in a nice, warm bedroom.
Here's the Motolana 'arm in place:
(https://i.postimg.cc/C51TsmJ1/79-C8-D149-CDCA-4137-B24-B-9-A7163-DF66-EA.jpg)
Yes, the spacers are brass and yes, I know brass is heavy...and it's the material I had on hand and the ID was just right. All I had to do was cut it to length and turn the OD.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fW2hRQT0/42-A99-AA0-D1-EA-4296-B9-D7-F30-FFD2-CDA05.jpg)
'Arm and wheel mocked in place.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZKWz9sCs/2-CD2-EDAE-D3-F8-4-DB4-A677-0-C18567-A8-BD9.jpg)
A set of Spec II rearsets I have; they're kind of clunky and I have mixed feelings about them. I was going to slip them in place, but the installation instructions SEEM to indicate drilling out the threaded captive nut on the backside of the frame. I don't love the idea.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0scnYyx/DC1-F2686-25-D7-47-D5-AB11-2-C34280020-A8.jpg)
Assuming you can read the instructions above, am I interpreting it correctly regarding the drilling?
I'll stand on my head and read through those instructions quick lol. (Use the FlipThis Extension on Google Chrome and it literally will only flip what you ask it to. Worked like a charm here.)
Drill top bolt hole to 25/64's... Well, sounds like you'd be drilling the hole and hence the nut bigger. Yes.
Also, good looking tank. Looks oddly familiar :D
Well, aren't I clever, uploading a picture to my hosting site and then here without noticing it was upside-down? Thanks Striker, I now have that nice extension loaded and can rotate pictures for my viewing pleasure...but I haven't figured out how to fix my post. You've answered my question, so I'm not motivated to worry about it!
I don't want to take the threads out of the frame bracket, so... I think I'll screw a big long 'ol bolt into that hole and see if my knees like that location for pegs.
It IS a nice-lookin' tank, isn't it? Almost too nice to repaint. Almost. :devil:
rdshaw is transforming an RD with biblical speed...meanwhile, back a my ranch I'm screwing the pooch left and right. So impressed with myself for sussing the bearing spacer for the TDR/FZR/FZ rear wheel, then ordered FZR wheel bearings with 17mm ID...and the OD is too big for the TDR hub. Of course. Yamaha spec'd bigger bearings for the FZR wheel with its 17mm axle than it did for the TDR with its 15mm axle. As Mr. Know-it-All would have said: I truly should have known.
Then, I confidently found an aluminum 520 conversion rear sprocket for the CBR wheel destined for my RZ, and it arrived with one stud hole too few. :sad: Don't know yet what went sideways there, but it was probably me.
Update: we is met the enemy, and they is us. I returned to the sprocket catalog and discovered my error; I turned a 0 into a 1 and ordered a very nice sprocket to fit various Honda sport quads and the ATC250R. The sprocket I was after is only offered with 43 teeth, which might still work with a smaller countershaft sprocket. Anybody have an ATC250R...?
Quote from: 85RZwade on January 26, 2022, 12:33:55 AM
rdshaw is transforming an RD with biblical speed...meanwhile, back a my ranch I'm screwing the pooch left and right. So impressed with myself for sussing the bearing spacer for the TDR/FZR/FZ rear wheel, then ordered FZR wheel bearings with 17mm ID...and the OD is too big for the TDR hub. Of course. Yamaha spec'd bigger bearings for the FZR wheel with its 17mm axle than it did for the TDR with its 15mm axle. As Mr. Know-it-All would have said: I truly should have known.
Then, I confidently found an aluminum 520 conversion rear sprocket for the CBR wheel destined for my RZ, and it arrived with one stud hole too few. :sad: Don't know yet what went sideways there, but it was probably me.
Damn....I struggled to find bearings to suit the rear NSR wheel but thicker axle.....ended up using a thinner axle with stock bearing i/d and spacing the jaws of the swingarm/adjusters to take the thinner axle.
I've decided to seek professional help (insert joke here). I'm taking my bearing dimensions to a local industrial supply house this weekend and see if there's an easy way to get this done.
Soooooooooooooo, you're gonna come diggin through my stuff again?
If you've got bearings, I've got calipers! Still haven't seen your latest acquisition yet, anyway.
:bang: this is how I feel today. After my little hobby lathe and I proved unable to make concentric front wheel spacers for this project, I handed the job off to a friend of a friend with a real lathe. No hurry, I said...here's the axle, just need 'em bored to 15mm so they fit snug on here. Apparently, those directions were, um...difficult? Friend 1 called me and compared the just-completed fit to a hotdog in a hallway.
Hopefully, I can use the now too-big-for-15mm spacers on the rear 17mm axle...or the 20mm axle of the CBR wheel going onto the RZ. Either way, I need to buy more aluminum bar stock.
Quote from: 85RZwade on January 30, 2022, 09:23:27 PM
:bang: this is how I feel today. After my little hobby lathe and I proved unable to make concentric front wheel spacers for this project, I handed the job off to a friend of a friend with a real lathe. No hurry, I said...here's the axle, just need 'em bored to 15mm so they fit snug on here. Apparently, those directions were, um...difficult? Friend 1 called me and compared the just-completed fit to a hotdog in a hallway.
Hopefully, I can use the now too-big-for-15mm spacers on the rear 17mm axle...or the 20mm axle of the CBR wheel going onto the RZ. Either way, I need to buy more aluminum bar stock.
Hmmm...finding a tame turner is tricky, luckily I have one on stand-by. He's recently knocked up a few spacers for the engine mounts out of stainless and bumper mounts out of Delrin :)
just an option. at least the id is bored, so all you would have to do is the length and OD https://www.mcmaster.com/spacers/id~15mm/metric-press-fit-drill-bushings-9/
Holy buckets, that might be the path of least resistance
Early this week, I got to see the aforementioned spacers. They're bored too large for a 15mm axle, but too small for a 17mm, so in my infinite wisdom I sent them back along with my 17mm and 20mm axles. This time, I'm hoping one spacer will be bored to 17mm for the RD rear wheel and the other to 20mm for the RZ/CBR rear wheel conversion, and a new set will be made for the front of the RD. 15mm, 15mm, 15mm...I'm putting it out there into the universe.
I also re-ordered a rear sprocket for the RZ/CBR conversion, and a set of UPP intake manifolds for the RD. Maybe this weekend I'll get the cylinders and head ready for paint? We'll see, the honey-do list is long and deep. I also want to repaint the GSX-R lower fork legs and the triple clamps, but agonizing over the color; I'm afraid of too much black. Thinking about having the lowers anodized, but I don't know if that process adds, for lack of a better word, thickness. I'm concerned the anodizing will make the inner diameter smaller, causing the inner tube/outer tube to be too tight. I'll try to do some research this weekend.
Something else: can conventional, chrome-plated fork tubes be treated with diamond-like coating? It was all the rage at one time, and I wonder it it's an appropriate (read: less expensive than replating) fix for less-than-perfect fork tubes?
Hang this up to deal with the Honey do list. She will understand, no problem.
:ohdear: ouch; that one hit uncomfortably close to home
Quote from: 85RZwade on February 04, 2022, 10:00:49 PM
Early this week, I got to see the aforementioned spacers. They're bored too large for a 15mm axle, but too small for a 17mm, so in my infinite wisdom I sent them back along with my 17mm and 20mm axles. This time, I'm hoping one spacer will be bored to 17mm for the RD rear wheel and the other to 20mm for the RZ/CBR rear wheel conversion, and a new set will be made for the front of the RD. 15mm, 15mm, 15mm...I'm putting it out there into the universe.
I also re-ordered a rear sprocket for the RZ/CBR conversion, and a set of UPP intake manifolds for the RD. Maybe this weekend I'll get the cylinders and head ready for paint? We'll see, the honey-do list is long and deep. I also want to repaint the GSX-R lower fork legs and the triple clamps, but agonizing over the color; I'm afraid of too much black. Thinking about having the lowers anodized, but I don't know if that process adds, for lack of a better word, thickness. I'm concerned the anodizing will make the inner diameter smaller, causing the inner tube/outer tube to be too tight. I'll try to do some research this weekend.
Something else: can conventional, chrome-plated fork tubes be treated with diamond-like coating? It was all the rage at one time, and I wonder it it's an appropriate (read: less expensive than replating) fix for less-than-perfect fork tubes?
Re: Fork tubes. I had a rusty spot on my CBX tubes, so changed them for repro, from a trusted source, as the cost outweighed having them rechromed....it's hard chrome to different to show quality.
Check out 'Super finishing', I think it's a new method of polishing/treating metal surfaces, bothed in beads and vibrated to a superhigh shine finish.
Example website: https://www.pbm-ltd.com/services/superfinishing-inspection/
As for your fork legs, I've used rattlecan 'stainless' wheel paint (from your regular auto store), much subtler in final colour, more gunmetal/dark silver than bright silver....looks factory but not.
(https://i.imgur.com/q26GkWT.jpg)
My Suzonda lower legs in 'stainless or steel' rattlecan. Turned out nice....my neighbour is using it now too :)
Carry on....
Here's what I hope will complete the front brake system:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrsQLJyK/31-D9-FC5-C-AC68-4369-A7-AC-EAEBFED0-BC16.jpg)
16mm radial master from a CBR1000RR, of 2018 vinatage. I think I even have a brake line!
This project is not dead; merely dormant. What is the consensus about these shocks for my application? Seller says they're 13.5" eye-to-eye.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1032396134559655/?mibextid=6ojiHh (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1032396134559655/?mibextid=6ojiHh)
too tall IMHO but a good price indeed.