I figured I would make a project thread for this bike. I've gone through the trouble of filming the first episode of a YouTube series about fixing up this machine. So I figured I would post that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXx2B0xN538 here and I will also post photos in here. No idea if I will make subsequent videos since it was a bit annoying and there seems to be no interest in it, :laugh: I'm no Ken Burns.
I bought this bike about five years ago, it has been sitting forever and was missing parts, but I was able to get it up and running, and I did some work to it at that time to get it road safe and use it for I think one season? But sadly the engine failed one day and so the bike has been sitting for three years collecting bondo dust and leaking oil in the corner.
(http://i.imgur.com/zrOalzBh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/zrOalzB)
Plans are to make the bike as nice as I can make it before I get bored.
Since filming that video I have taken the front fork off the bike and stripped the frame, and it's associated parts and those things are now being powder coated (like I said, this bike is just for me, and it's going to be nice) and the cylinders are at the machine shop awaiting pistons.
I will be repainting the whole bike, including the tank and covered in the original stripes and colours.
This will most likely exceed the value of the bike :laugh:
I plan to fit some "sporty" accessories as I mentioned in the video, although it will be more for looks than actual performance. I have been looking at the "JL Street Retros" because they allow me to keep the stand, but I'm torn on whether to bother with them if they have no real performance benefit, as the stock exhaust is one of the few parts of this bike that is actually in excellent condition.
I have filmed the disassembly of the engine and will edit that video and post it this evening. If anyone has any comments about all the things I'm doing wrong, or sees any major concerns, feel free to mention it, and I'll attempt to correct it : :Clown:
As you don't mention any plans for racing, I'll suggest staying with the stock pipes and such until it is all running 100% then consider if it really needs (or will get) a performance improvment by changing exhaust, intake, etc. There are so many threads of folks making changes and then spending more time and money chasing the jetting, etc. to get performance back to baseline.
itll help. My 72 is very similar in approach. it def runs stronger than my 70.
Id consider a cdi at least as well, or at least an electronic ignition.
Pretty cool.!
Thanks for sharing. I swear I'm seeing more and more R5 stories.. or maybe I'm just paying more attention
Either way it's pretty cool.
They're all just copying you, Scott! I don't know if you know this, but you're a pretty big deal. :jacked: sorry!
I say get it back together stock and see if it makes you smile inside your helmet. You can always make changes later if you find it lacking. :thumbs:
My opinion on the JL street retro's. Keep your stock pipes and have your cylinders ported. Plus I think r5s look right with stock pipes.
Quote from: 85RZwade on July 02, 2021, 04:00:09 PM
They're all just copying you, Scott! I don't know if you know this, but you're a pretty big deal. :jacked: sorry!
I say get it back together stock and see if it makes you smile inside your helmet. You can always make changes later if you find it lacking. :thumbs:
Ha!..
Sure my freind. Thanks.. :wink:
Quote from: Czakky on July 03, 2021, 08:09:39 AM
My opinion on the JL street retro's. Keep your stock pipes and have your cylinders ported. Plus I think r5s look right with stock pipes.
I think I probably will keep the stock pipes for now since I won't have to do any tuning and the bike ran great before it blew up. The cylinders I bought to replace the cracked ones actually have been ported by someone, but I have no idea if it's been done correctly or competently.
The one time I did any kind of porting, it was a matter of measuring the dimensions of the ports and distance from top of cylinder. Both sides should be the same with identical angles on the edges for each set of holes. Post the numbers and someone else here will know what they mean regarding what pipes they'd be good for and where to start with jetting. :twocents:
if they are ported you'll have to retune from stock anyway so... might as well fit the chambers. :devil:
years ago i restored a 71 like yours, had beautiful stock pipes. I procured a set of really nice j&r pipes and put them on (chrome). Eventually i sold the bike to Tom who swore he was going to put the mint stock pipes back on that came w the bike.
He bought it back in... 07? he still has the bike and it still has the same chambers on it. :dawg:
Quote from: Greaser Greg on July 06, 2021, 09:58:58 PM
The one time I did any kind of porting, it was a matter of measuring the dimensions of the ports and distance from top of cylinder. Both sides should be the same with identical angles on the edges for each set of holes. Post the numbers and someone else here will know what they mean regarding what pipes they'd be good for and where to start with jetting. :twocents:
When I get the cylinders back from the machine shop, I'll have to photograph the porting and get more detail about how it's been done.
Quote from: m in sc on July 07, 2021, 11:02:22 AM
if they are ported you'll have to retune from stock anyway so... might as well fit the chambers. :devil:
years ago i restored a 71 like yours, had beautiful stock pipes. I procured a set of really nice j&r pipes and put them on (chrome). Eventually i sold the bike to Tom who swore he was going to put the mint stock pipes back on that came w the bike.
He bought it back in... 07? he still has the bike and it still has the same chambers on it. :dawg:
Oh I think I've spent enough money on this bike at this point haha, I spent $300 on candy orange paint, vinyl fine line tape and clear coat yesterday. :toot:
Hopefully the jetting will be similar, I had a uni with ypipe on the bike when it was previously on the road and was running premix and I actually never changed the jetting from stock and it ran fine.
I fixed up the side covers yesterday, not perfect but, they were petty beat up. I've ordered some replacement stickers for them, hopefully they're of a better quality than the ones I used on my RD350 from Economy cycle, they kinda wrinkled up around the edges.
Quote from: mewherman on July 02, 2021, 12:17:49 AM
But sadly the engine failed one day and so the bike has been sitting for three years collecting bondo dust and leaking oil in the corner.
Quote from: mewherman on July 07, 2021, 11:22:35 PM
I had a uni with ypipe on the bike when it was previously on the road and was running premix and I actually never changed the jetting from stock and it ran fine.
I don't think you mentioned the cause for your engine blow up, but this probably contributed. Jetting should be larger with that intake setup and premix. It was very likely lean. :twocents:
Quote from: SoCal250 on July 08, 2021, 12:10:26 PM
Quote from: mewherman on July 02, 2021, 12:17:49 AM
But sadly the engine failed one day and so the bike has been sitting for three years collecting bondo dust and leaking oil in the corner.
Quote from: mewherman on July 07, 2021, 11:22:35 PM
I had a uni with ypipe on the bike when it was previously on the road and was running premix and I actually never changed the jetting from stock and it ran fine.
I don't think you mentioned the cause for your engine blow up, but this probably contributed. Jetting should be larger with that intake setup and premix. It was very likely lean. :twocents:
I discussed it and showed in the video there. The cylinder wall cracked on the left side and moved out of position, the piston smashed into that edge and it locked the engine up, it actually seized sitting at a stop sign, so I don't think leanness caused it. That's not to say it was jetted correctly, just to say I think the failure was unrelated.
I got the frame back from being powder coated, and it's looking great. Started reassembling the basics. I've got the bottom end of the engine assembled and have simply been doing the work of polishing/painting every little thing that has to be put back on the bike, a slow process.
(http://i.imgur.com/060TOmsl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/060TOms)
(http://i.imgur.com/M6cljeEl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/M6cljeE)
(http://i.imgur.com/26bI9L0l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/26bI9L0)
That's pretty
The best part about powder coat is that you can assemble the thing without worrying about chipping paint. I love it.
Also, that Vo in the background. Loving that!
So I really need to update this, I've made quite a bit of progress. I installed the swing are with new bronze bushings from Economy cycle and the headset with new bearings as the old ones are all rusted. Lots and lots of time at the bench grinder polishing individual nuts and bolts. I have the wheels shod in new tires, and I've installed the rear, I polished and cleaned up all the parts as best I could but not all of it is in great shape, the plating is all peeling off the brake lever for the rear brake and I should probably find a better one. The aluminum parts polished up nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/2Hz3g8ah.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/e8t4J95h.jpg) (https://imgur.com/e8t4J95)
I have the engine fully assembled, and I have the cylinders back from machining, I have them painted, but I need to do the sanding/filing of the fin edges before I can install them.
(http://i.imgur.com/iUg8OAch.jpg) (https://imgur.com/iUg8OAc)
I've started in ernest on the bodywork because I need to finish the headlight mounting brackets to install the front fork.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ec74qUdh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Ec74qUd)
yikes
(http://i.imgur.com/vpHaODjh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/vpHaODj)
The fuel tank is bashed in every corner sadly and the paint is original but burnt off the upper parts.
(http://i.imgur.com/WABQsSWh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WABQsSW)
(http://i.imgur.com/65cyoH3h.jpg) (https://imgur.com/65cyoH3)
(http://i.imgur.com/09T70vYh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/09T70vY)
I was actually able to get my skinny arms inside the fuel filler on this tank with a dolly and remove the small dents from the forward part of the tank, at the rear I wended studs and slide hammered the big creases out and then tried to iron them out a bit. They were far too deep before to fill with filler without having the filler shrink over the winter and look terrible.
(http://i.imgur.com/uxumi82h.jpg) (https://imgur.com/uxumi82)
(http://i.imgur.com/yQGLiJHh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/yQGLiJH)
how the fuck did you get an arm in the filler neck? :eek:
and. looks good. :cheerleader:
It's got to be a figure of speech!
Quote from: m in sc on July 22, 2021, 03:39:56 PM
how the fuck did you get an arm in the filler neck? :eek:
and. looks good. :cheerleader:
lol, I'm a skinny person.
Ya done good! I managed to pop a hole in my 400 tank when tapping (lightly) the stud. And, my headlight ear although chrome was bent the same. BTW, by the dent on the right front I'd say the fork stop on that side is tweaked, also.
Apologies for the lack of updates, it's not because I haven't worked on it. In fact the bike is fully assembled.
Here are some photos I took of the paint work.
(https://i.imgur.com/fq2QGWDh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HYKT2xWh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wsH4GeYh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zbuspzSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o3tU4pmh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lZhfwhFh.jpg)
The paint turned out, ok, as usual with bodywork the mistakes you make during the process compound upon the final product but it looks fine to everyone who isn't me.
Here is the bike this afternoon after the first start of the engine.
(https://i.imgur.com/rqWSYq1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AOz2HzHh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I359iy5h.jpg)
The engine seems to run great at least at idle and in first and second gear, the oil pump is working and the electrical is mostly working.
Sadly my previous misgivings about the 6 speed rd transmission swap have proved to be justified, and the bike only has first and second and won't shift beyond those gears. I have made a previous thread the tech help section with photos of the inside of the transmission but no ne seemed to have any suggestions and I couldn't find anything wrong after messing around with it on the bench for hours; which is why I decided to just chalk it up to me being paranoid and continue on.
I will make a new post and ask for further suggestions since there is obviously some major issue, this 6 speed is from an RD250 and worked fine when that RD250 engine ran and was on the road. If I can't figure it out I will just put the thing back to stock 5 speed and that will be that.
Wish I could help with the transmission...
Your paint looks amazing!
What seat is that?
czakky, I think it's a Texavina?
Quote from: sav0r on July 14, 2021, 09:30:44 AM
The best part about powder coat is that you can assemble the thing without worrying about chipping paint. I love it.
Also, that Vo in the background. Loving that!
Haha, yeah, it's a 1976 wagon. It's pretty rough, but has been really reliable for a 45-year-old unrestored survivor.
Quote from: Czakky on October 07, 2021, 07:38:23 AM
Wish I could help with the transmission...
Your paint looks amazing!
What seat is that?
Thank you!, I actually have sorted the transmission out, I believe. I would be riding it if I hadn't broken an oil injector fitting and now am unable to find a replacement. Yes it's a texavina seat https://texavina.com/1970-1972-yamaha-rd350-r5-ds7-solo-cafe-racer-sport-motorcycle-seat-sku-t2080/ Seems to be well made and fits well with the correct hardware. I would say I'm happy with it but it had better be good at the price I paid.
Started the bike up and road it for the first time, transmission and clutch issues seem to be cured. Runs a bit rich, I probably should have just left the stock mains in there.
https://youtu.be/3tIhKyp8lDU
yup. sounds and looks great.
is it a k&n y boot? if so mine (otherwise stock 70) is same setup. seems to like 140 mains. :twocents:
:righteous:
Quote from: m in sc on October 17, 2021, 10:51:18 AM
yup. sounds and looks great.
is it a k&n y boot? if so mine (otherwise stock 70) is same setup. seems to like 140 mains. :twocents:
I have a uni y boot, this also has port work of unknown quality or origin done to the cylinders. I put 130s in there, the original ones were like 110? Or something. I have only ridden it around the neighbourhood.
i -suspect- mine has had something done as well, but not sure. try dropping the needle 1 if its fat, i doubt you were on the main for any length of time in the neighborhood (assuming its the same when fully warmed up).
Quote from: m in sc on October 17, 2021, 05:38:21 PM
i -suspect- mine has had something done as well, but not sure. try dropping the needle 1 if its fat, i doubt you were on the main for any length of time in the neighborhood (assuming its the same when fully warmed up).
I rode the bike for the first time this afternoon after putting plates on it and finishing a few odds and ends. I wasn't able to exactly determine if it's rich or lean really since the clutch was slipping, and I was having ignition issues and fouled plugs. The clutch used to slip unless it was adjusted all the way loose at the engine side when the engine was stock before as well, of course now it has a totally different clutch that I know is good, so I guess it wasn't that. I guess it just doesn't like any preload on that slot screw.
Despite these issues the bike feels pretty good and I can tell the engine has a lot more to give, and It was very fun to ride! I was having issues with the points, I had ordered replacements in the form of a tune up kit when I ordered all the parts from economy cycle but when the order was filled they said they were out of stock so I only got condensers. They said they would send the points when they got some, but it's been three months with no contact from them. So basically i'm running all 40 year old ignition parts lol.
When I put the bike together, I installed these snazzy looking new "classic" shocks I bought from economy cycle to replace the rusty originals, I'm finding they have no give at all and provide a very firm ride. I'm not sure what other people have experienced with these, maybe they are better suited to a much heavier rider than me.
Well that last test ride just now I felt the front end get light in third with the clutch still slipping. Not sure what the clutch's deal is, it worked fine in the rd250 it came out of but that 250 was totally clapped out, so maybe I just need new plates. I've adjusted the linkage so it's applying no pressure, so I'll try again. Performance of the engine is great, but It has fouled three sets of spark plugs. I think I just need to replace everything ignition related and try again, I have double-checked timing is dead on and the gap is perfect. It totally killed two brand new NGKS, even the blow torch wouldn't bring them back to life!
Did you adjust the linkage at the pushrod? I forget what it is, tighten then back off an 1/8th...?
Are you running the oil pump? I've never had any fouling issues... weird it being so close to stock.
Quote from: Czakky on October 19, 2021, 05:01:19 AM
Did you adjust the linkage at the pushrod? I forget what it is, tighten then back off an 1/8th...?
Are you running the oil pump? I've never had any fouling issues... weird it being so close to stock.
Yes, at the push rod, I backed it off a bit, and now it seems to grab fine. I'm not sure what the spec is supposed to be I can't find anything about that.
I am running the pump which seems to operate fine, I replaced all the seals and lines on it.
I have no idea why it's doing this, I think I need to replace all the old original ignition stuff just to rule that out. The bike is basically stock other than a uni filter and the cylinders are ported. I really hope it isn't somehow an issue with the port work that's been done because that would mean I basically need to buy another set of replacement cylinders.
i tend to run my adjustment at 1/2 to 3/4 turn out. ( i think the spec is 1/4) the clutch plates swell when they get warm and takes the play out. you can always adjust any discrepancies at the lever end.
What seat is that, looks great !