Motors out.
Let's see what we got.
:popcorn2: Can't wait!.........................D
The pistons on both sides were starting to rub right in the center of the exhaust side. No other signs of seizure. Lots of vertical scratches.
Crank is so bad it's notched. If you rotate it the crank skips around 90 degrees at a time.
Correction, crank rotates freely by hand, but is louder than it was before, even with oil in it. :/ So, would it be cheaper to rebuild it? Or just buy another Vito's crank for $479 off Ebay? The top end doesn't look terrible, but I think I'm at minimum sending it back to John or someone to have a look.
Dang... Sorry!
So decision time on the crank. Anyone have a suggestion? I highly doubt I can have the Vito's crank rebuilt cheaper than a new crank costs. Thoughts?
I see as well Garrett is selling an already rebuilt stock crank for $550....
I would go with the Garret crank. Im not putting anything Vitos in my motor ever. Before rattle can Ray bought Vitos, maybe, but definitely not now.
Still here. Still working on the bike lol. The crank still haunts me. I tried scrounging for parts on the cheap. I can't get a crank done for less than 500 bucks. Best prices I found for parts were $125 for 2 Pro-X rod kits. But the bearings... They are expensive. Looking at $180 from the local dealer with free pickup.
Even if I sent the crank out it would be $150 most places if I supplied parts +shipping.
Would anyone actually rebuild a Vito's crank? I suppose I don't see why they couldn't or wouldn't.
Garrets page has $425 for a rebuild
Having only seen pictures of the Vito's cranks, they may have one advantage over the older 250/350 cranks. No lead weights that can come loose. And a bit lighter weight, I suspect. Maybe as much as a pound or two?
Correct, no lead weights and lighter.
I just sent mine off to Ed Toomey.
Pistons are in. Banshee pistons Wiseco.
I know that the center tang needs to be taken off the piston. John did the last set for me. This set I've got it here to do. Anyone have any advice? The only file I have is a large metal one Should I be looking at getting a set of jewelers files or something to do this?
I used a belt sander on the tang and some hand sanding with a small block to make a bit of a chamfer.
Ok, I used the grinder to do most of the work. Will do a file on the rest and sandpaper to finish it off. All these little tasks make me nervous for some dumb reason. Lol. Maybe my confidence has been slowly whittled away every blow-up I go through.
EDIT:
Pistons all done but the polishing.
Every "blow up" is a learning experience/opportunity!.............................D
I just hope the blow up isn't from the grinding wheel. Loaded with aluminum, they've been known to explode when next used on steel.
Quote from: pidjones on September 01, 2021, 06:15:28 AM
I just hope the blow up isn't from the grinding wheel. Loaded with aluminum, they've been known to explode when next used on steel.
:bang:
Good thing they're cheap. I'll just replace it. Thanks for the caution.
So as the crank rests with Mr. Toomey I got the cylinders honed. Just need to give them a bath. I use dawn dish soap for everything so I might as well put on Splish Splash by Bobby Darin and just boogy til those cylinders sparkle and my shirts dirty.
What is the next step? Well, I had quite the low neutral position hum. As if the transmission was resonating through the whole motor in a deep, soft, quiet, baritone. Is this something that's considered normal? Transmission bearings seemed just fine to me. No catching, or goofy noises. Output shaft bearing was replaced last refresh with a new one Chuck Q had sent me. I've heard the trans bearings are usually sold and steady on these.
Next step is to oil the cylinders as soon as they are clean to prevent flash rust.
Quote from: Striker1423 on August 31, 2021, 12:04:14 PM
Ok, I used the grinder to do most of the work. Will do a file on the rest and sandpaper to finish it off. All these little tasks make me nervous for some dumb reason. Lol. Maybe my confidence has been slowly whittled away every blow-up I go through.
EDIT:
Pistons all done but the polishing.
I use those pistons in my 400. Wicked strong and they hold up good.
When you say "polishing" what do you mean? Just smooth off the rough ground part on that lower edge and you are good to go.
Quote from: teazer on September 09, 2021, 11:55:17 PM
When you say "polishing" what do you mean? Just smooth off the rough ground part on that lower edge and you are good to go.
Just smoothing out where the file was used with 1000 grit sandpaper or something. That's it.
Thanks for clearing that up. You had me worried for a moment.
Stay calm and Carry on
New gaskets and seals are here. Just need the crank.
Also, the little crank seal with the nub that fits in the crank keyway. It was new and they are OOS most places. Although its already starting to get hard, its not deformed. Might I still be able to use it?
Newer motors don't even us the oring on the crank key-way. You will be fine just putting a bit of yamabond on the key-way when reassembling.
Do a leakdown test after it is all together to check everything is good.
What bike do you need the crank o-ring for? I notice Yambits has them for the RD400c.
Quote from: pidjones on September 11, 2021, 10:57:32 PM
What bike do you need the crank o-ring for? I notice Yambits has them for the RD400c.
Parts fisches show them for all 350's and 400's. There should be a groove for the oring on the back of the crank gear to be able to use the oring.
They stopped using them on the LC and everything after.
Cylinders washed and oiled, roll-pin replaced in oil pump, just need to clean the heads and re-clean the transmission etc. as its been sitting open for months. Yay life! I now await crank and eventually the oil pump will be sent to Arrow for his magic voodoo to be performed. :)
I know I can run the bike until then hence why I'm still moving forward. Never had an oiling problem, but the pump will definitely work better after he's done with it.
He just needs to use a dressing tool to clean the wheel, to be safe.
This should of been a quote to the grinding wheel remark.
Quote from: 1979DaytonaSpecial on September 14, 2021, 12:54:21 PM
He just needs to use a dressing tool to clean the wheel, to be safe.
This should of been a quote to the grinding wheel remark.
Yea I might just do that. Heads cleaned up nicely. Need to clean the gaskets next.
I have acquired all the parts to start rebuilding the engine.
Crank, Pistons, Gaskets, seals, Rebuilt oil pump, new Yamaha oil lines and clips, etc.
Now to just clean the rest of the fiances stuff from out of the garage. I don't care at this point, basement the rest goes!
i get that. i built a shed over a year ago to put all the stuff that was in the way in the garage to its proper place.
I'm thinking a plastic shed for the back yard, one that I can take with me whenever we build the house, or move to another one. Found property near Lake St. Clair that sounds awesome for $50k, but its a weirdly diagonal lot, so we're talking to a realtor about what might need to happen. The city might have weird stipulations. However, if we could build a house just right we could face the front to look right down a side street to Anchor Bay.
I'm a basement builder. Look out back! Get buff.
So, now what do I do of the pips for the inner bearings on the crank don't line up to the holes?
oh i see better now.. its over to the inside as well. missed that earlier.
id notch the case a bit. :twocents:
I just picked up a new cordless dremel tool for $100 bucks as I couldn't find my knockoff version. I'll notch the case and see how it goes. Maybe a shop vac running as i grind will help keep things cleaner.
M knows the story, but this project is one headache after another! Something is in the inner bearing on the crank. Crank was well out of the way when cases got worked on, and this was here before. The bearing pin seems to be shorter on the side that binds as the other side spins free. So either a chunk of the pin is in there floating around, or the pin itself is pressed in too far, but the damn crank binds up for a 1/4 turn. Took me two assemblies and one dry-fit to figure out that indeed it wasn't the crank sitting uneven or anything.
I'm trying to clean it out with air, but if it is indeed the pin, anyone know how I can remove it? It has three notches cut into it almost like it was a zip-screw pin of sorts.
The pin and bearing on the left in the pic is the problem child. OH, and that lab-seal is very odd. Never seen one like that before. As long as it works, cool, but crazy-looking ha?
EDIT:
Got the pin out easy, not the issue. Outer race was not drilled through. Should I just send it back and have it looked at? Was thinking I could let it soak in diesel for a while to eat at the grease that I put in it, maybe that might coax whatever is in the bearing out after it dries with some compressed air...
I think you should call your crank builder. I am confident he would have good advice
Bought a small storage tub from Lowes and another gallon of mineral spirits. I picked up a 2 stroke oil measuring syringe a while back and since i hadn't used it, I flushed it quick and used that to spray mineral spirits into the bearing at various locations. Eventually the bearing started spinning again, and whatever was in it disappeared. Gonna try oiling it next. I have a small diabetic syringe I got years ago when I needed something to bond a crack in a gun stock. Will work great to inject some oil into the bearing and see how she spins.
Cranks on its way back to the builder. He agreed it needs looked at.