I recently joined the forum as I'm diving into the deep end with 2 strokes. The build begins over on Do The Ton, where Teazer has been loads of help and a wealth of information so far. It's pretty cool the willingness for 2T guys to share information. I figure I'll run parallel threads and absorb as much as I can
This summer, I took a trip to a buddy's house in Ohio to trade a trailer load of bikes. In the haul I brought back to Georgia was an IT200, several bins full of RD parts and a titled 75 frame. There's a vintage fiberglass race fairing, tank and seat to build around. I had considered building a legit race bike, but have opted instead to build a street bike that plays on track days.
This is as it sits today.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/f4b48c70-851c-4fbe-bc4b-2f4544f4d2b3-jpeg.233410/)
The mock-up includes a GSXR front end, Radian Swingarm and wheels from an 87 ZX600. The pile includes an LC top end, a Banshee manifold and I think YZ85 reeds. Stock carbs are also in the bin. I'm also trying to identify the crank, which I've been told is a TZ/RD hybrid. Not sure how I confirm that information.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/93391b20-4ee9-43b2-be4d-d8b559ebce74-jpeg.233246/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/775784d8-6fae-46da-ae7b-8da18aa6b964-jpeg.233265/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/11d2deec-858a-4aff-a99c-97e3255d131e-jpeg.233260/)
Cool stuff! I looked high and low for an IT200 a few years ago for my boys to no avail. They ended up on false-strokes :busey:
Love the Frankenbike combination of parts, and that's the nicest radiator I've seen since last Friday (when mine arrived).
Quote from: 85RZwade on August 07, 2021, 12:45:32 AM
Cool stuff! I looked high and low for an IT200 a few years ago for my boys to no avail. They ended up on false-strokes :busey:
Love the Frankenbike combination of parts, and that's the nicest radiator I've seen since last Friday (when mine arrived).
My IT isn't in the best of shape, though it runs really well, so I should be able to sort it out just fine. It came with an 80s Honda XR250 tank, the wrong front wheel, the shift lever (broken) welded to the shift shaft, the swing arm cut through by the kickstand (now missing), no side covers or fairing, and no seat. I was able to get the seat and a tank at Mid Ohio, and I ordered the shift lever and shaft off of Ebay. Already ordered side covers from DC Plastics.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/ec60e383-b64f-49dc-a738-d1d4eb40c60d-jpeg.233233/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/8cbf8b01-2b0f-492c-86cd-20c025ab3e4b-jpeg.233438/)
These are some pipes. With the porting and the pipes, I'm expecting a wild ride. I'm probably small on carburetor at the moment, but that's for another day. I'm being told I have a little more wiggle with the liquid cool, but that remains to be seen.
:righteous: this is going to fun. Thanks for sharing.
I lost track of this thread and had to do some digging to bring it back up. Sorry to let it drop for so long. I'll update as best I can. Definitely some mistakes and changes along the way, so I can admit to those too.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/da24f262-d407-4a14-91b9-82fae06ffaf6-jpeg.233805/)
First big change goes to swapping the EX wheels for GL1000 wheels. I like to build 17" wheels from GL1000 aluminum DID rear rims, GL1000 front hubs and CB550 rear (drum) hubs. 96/97 YZF600r Thundercat rotors fit the bolt pattern and provide a 300mm dual disc option.
Then, I decided to try out the same year Thundercat front end, which didn't fit right at all.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/a090b801-04ba-49d3-b540-032201a8e41a-jpeg.234642/)
This pic also shows my location of the radiator. The cross bar on the front of the frame forces two very different options for location. I chose lot lower option, which means it has to be tilted out to clear the pipes. Been questioning this mount the whole time, but still sticking with it. I prefer the rad to be inline with the engine and I'm not sure if I'll get interference with the triple going high.
I had the head decked by Mototech US to raise. Running a compression check after build gets me 135 on both cylinders.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/436470d2-1fbc-4740-afa9-23ee37a1326d-jpeg.233880/)
Made some spigots for the pipes. I need to learn how these can effect tune, but I matched the exhaust port on ID.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/9c80f77b-4ebb-432f-8b1a-f16ca74572fa-jpeg.233947/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/95019e3e-fc82-42a9-96d6-54694bfdb626-jpeg.233951/)
Then I changed side covers.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/0bce912f-7d39-4086-8f9b-3bae4e9992ae-jpeg.233972/)
Water pump mounting. I'm running pre-mix, at least in this iteration, and running the water pump in the cover. I altered a spare cover to make it all work.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/d15c274f-2098-48c8-a6b6-961d1ab090ac-jpeg.234484/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/3a1b2257-ffd5-4fb0-bdc4-63f32078dd0c-jpeg.234502/)
Also running TM32 carbs. I'll get into air side contraptions later.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/c5397bcf-214c-4937-afa4-f6ad00f185db-jpeg.234529/)
oh shit! i love that pump. talk to me about it. the tz pump i have on my hybrid is great, but i really like that. :toot:
:love: love it :love: love it :love: love it :love:
Quote from: m in sc on January 02, 2022, 04:42:28 PM
oh shit! i love that pump. talk to me about it. the tz pump i have on my hybrid is great, but i really like that. :toot:
I've seen 100 iterations of the same pump all over the internet, but this one is listed as an inverter cooler water pump for a Toyota Prius on Amazon. It's under $30. I'll report any failures, or other issues if they arise. I think it will work great. The motor and electrics are potted into the back of the casing, so I was able to cut away all the mounting tabs to fit it into the RD case. It's pretty snug and held tight by the top cover, but a nice fit.
Here's where questionable decisions may be beginning:
I got a pair of YZ reed cages, but instead of opening the boxes on the head I shaved the edges of the reed cages on a surface plate. It took a ton of time, and I hope they aren't thin to the point of being an issue. They slid in nice and clean and the follow the head pretty close.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/60dfa729-d435-49c0-8b60-1e7d84cf369f-jpeg.234671/)
This is the airbox. All nice and smooth with clean transitions inside. Not expecting gains, just hoping no losses. I added the boost tube, as well. I know there are mixed philosophies on the effectiveness of a boost tube, but I figure Yamaha was onto something when they put crossovers on RZs, so when a friend suggested one I got it.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/45598556-dc39-4457-82ac-17c40a7e5486-jpeg.234693/)
i was wondering how you were doing that, saw the pic int he other thread, thats an interesting solution. I like it, should work well. the crossover reminds me of a car exhaust.
I finally just gave up and run big long unis crossed over each other. :cheers:
Never seen that before; sick! You might be able to sell a couple of those. Interested to hear about your results. Could ya hurry? :wave:
I squeezed a Ramair into mine. The squished up crossed over unis just didnt look right for me.
This one has a metal backing plate, but I am waiting on delivery of an all foam version that I hope will just fit over the rear of the carbs
Quote from: rodneya on January 03, 2022, 06:25:34 PM
I squeezed a Ramair into mine. The squished up crossed over unis just didnt look right for me.
This one has a metal backing plate, but I am waiting on delivery of an all foam version that I hope will just fit over the rear of the carbs
Thanks for the tip. I'm giving one a try.
Does the Ramair performance sock just slip over the bellmouths without clamps? And where do we buy them?
Quote from: 85RZwade on January 03, 2022, 10:59:42 PM
Does the Ramair performance sock just slip over the bellmouths without clamps? And where do we buy them?
They are made to fit over velocity stacks. that is the way I fitted them to the RS36 flat slides on my 82 katana.
I am going to try them directly over the bellmouths to start. The frame is right behind to keep them from moving too much.
Gotta buy them from England unfortunately, direct from ramair or from their ebay store. there are some different hole spacing options so check out their site for the correct model number.
Motogpwerks had a post on facebook that he was making something similar, but its not on his website
I tested compression (132-135) and kicked it for a first start. Please keep in mind this is just a first kick. No tuning. No coolant system is hooked up yet, so I only ran it about 30 seconds. The idle is high, for sure. Otherwise, it sounds pretty strong.
Ring-dinging in the New Year!
Yes! Sounds great :vroom:
I've been spending lots of time behind the counter at my local auto parts stores digging through hoses to find the best combinations. I mostly have it figured out, except the plastic angle.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/43a08e48-c1a4-43ef-855f-7a72342f6942-jpeg.235096/)
Appreciate the recommendation for the RamAir socks. It's a stretch fit, but a fit nonetheless. Pretty simple design. I think I'm going to try my hand at making my own from UNI filter sheets.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/3d8199ed-9cba-4795-9998-11fe93aa1d69-jpeg.235097/)
for coolant lines, try some mandrel bent stainless from megs. then flare the ends and tight bend coolant lines.
I think we're figuring this out...
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/0d85ba1b-8854-41bd-a08a-18278149ae11-jpeg.235114/)
your lower radiator hose will collapse when it gets warm, just fyi. been there done that. keep an eye on it. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on January 12, 2022, 03:22:13 PM
your lower radiator hose will collapse when it gets warm, just fyi. been there done that. keep an eye on it. :twocents:
It's a molded hose. It won't collapse.
Going with a Trail Tech Vapor. Nice thing about the Trail Tech is the thermostat sensor threads into the LC head.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/a40564b0-71d1-428c-97fa-8b48b8bab432-jpeg.235122/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/da2403f2-8c7b-4021-81a7-b0c189117fee-jpeg.235121/)
oooo :)
Duly Noted, said the guy building (rather slowly) an LC project. Good to know!
yup. the smaller tto ones do as well. 1/8" npt.
Irk, Thought I was seeing double when I spotted this build on 2strokeworld.net....haha
Quote from: NoRiders on January 16, 2022, 02:33:30 PM
Irk, Thought I was seeing double when I spotted this build on 2strokeworld.net....haha
Haha. I figured the 2t knowledge base would be a little deeper over here, though Teazer has been all-knowing no matter where I post.
Quote from: 85RZwade on January 03, 2022, 10:59:42 PM
Does the Ramair performance sock just slip over the bellmouths without clamps? And where do we buy them?
Just got them delivered, took a really long time from the UK.
Fits great, bit of a stretch but it goes right over the back of the carbs
be very curious to see how that performs, may have to steal that idea.
Mine came in a few weeks back and so far so good. I've just bench run the bike so far, though, so we're still a bit out before I know what the street says.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/49e1246d-27ab-490a-9dca-6e84b6cfd69e-jpeg.235446/)
The build is mostly done (minus paint and body), so I took it for test rides. This is the part where I get really inexperienced. It rides nothing like I expected, so I need to find the tune. It shows little power in the lower gears. The power band comes on way up in the rpm's. Very little low end torque. It shows the ability to get up in speed, though I never took it above 4th gear. Any advice on stuff to go through is much appreciated. I can't remember the jetting in these carbs, in fact the jetting may be as they come. I need to go back and check.
Good news on getting it riding....can't really help with tuning though.
Irk, this should provide a good start for sorting out the jetting. (see attached)
If the jetting is still in the out-of-the-box config you'll defintely need to do some tweaking. I believe there are some members here running TM32s like you on a very similar setup who can provide some insight.
I like the nearly-finished product. :clap: Looks great! Can't wait to see it with paint.
Quote from: SoCal250 on February 23, 2022, 07:03:14 PM
Irk, this should provide a good start for sorting out the jetting. (see attached)
If the jetting is still in the out-of-the-box config you'll defintely need to do some tweaking. I believe there are some members here running TM32s like you on a very similar setup who can provide some insight.
I like the nearly-finished product. :clap: Looks great! Can't wait to see it with paint.
Thank you for that document. That will help a ton.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/d5a3b47e-75c4-4371-bf44-73d4bccfe6ed-jpeg.235447/)
Been talking to a buddy pretty knowledgeable who is telling me some of my expectations are a bit off. I have an XS and I'm expecting a ton of low end torque similar to the XS. He is suggesting the combo of porting and pipes gets me more of a road racer and I need to get it up above 6k to really get into the power band. This is opposite of my experience with motorcycles, so it's something I need to learn. I am definitely not revving, nor am I really getting on the throttle per se.
Congratulations on the first ride!
And thanks for posting the jetting document, Russ :thumbs:
Quote from: 85RZwade on February 24, 2022, 12:15:02 AM
And thanks for posting the jetting document, Russ :thumbs:
It's in the Tech Library :wink:
Whoa! Awesome build!
I've got oozing out of the front my base gasket. Seems like really loose oil when hot, but then thickens almost like graphite bearing grease. I am guessing something related to the transfer ports, but I'm not yet sure how or why. My guess is that the blackness and bearing grease nature is from exhaust. Doesn't taste sweet, so can't figure if coolant is contributing. Not in crazy amounts, but enough to know it needs fixed.
im running tm32s on my lc topend. it pulls great from down low...2500-3k ish but goes bonkers at 6500. scott clough ported.
Im sure the timing curve helps as well. and its pretty heavily ported, head cut, with lomas pipes.
heres the thread. would be really close. I never did the 2-into-1. maybe someday. either way.. its still running great. Hope this helps:
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=2122.0
Quote from: m in sc on March 31, 2022, 02:34:37 PM
im running tm32s on my lc topend. it pulls great from down low...2500-3k ish but goes bonkers at 6500. scott clough ported.
Im sure the timing curve helps as well. and its pretty heavily ported, head cut, with lomas pipes.
heres the thread. would be really close. I never did the 2-into-1. maybe someday. either way.. its still running great. Hope this helps:
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=2122.0
This helps a ton. I thought I was best at 250 on the main jet, but I just went all the way down to 240 on the main jetting to do some runs the other day. Seeing your results helps me confirm where I was. I am also lean on the jet needle by all accounts at 0-2, so I ordered P-6. I think it's time to dig back into the ignition timing. I've probably been way too focused on the carburetors in the tuning. Asking questions about the most common of things clearly highlights my lack of experience with 2T street bikes. LOL
The oozing oil thing... Make sure it isn't just leaking from the exhaust manifold. But, there shouldn't be ANY oil or anything leaking from a base gasket. If that's the case I'd pressure test the motor.
I took the top end off, because I was just not getting the compression I should be. Figuring plenty of blow-by too. I assume blow-by would contribute to base gasket losses, if they were in fact leaking. They appeared clean coming apart. Sent the jugs to Mototech in Ohio for boring to 64.5. Swapping from an LC to RZ piston with a modified skirt. I am trying to distinguish why the call for a skirt mod for air-cooled RDs, but best I can figure it's con rod length differences. Even though I'm running the LC top end, I opted for the modded skirt. I hope I have it right.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/53f5e96e-679d-4dd3-bf1a-373cbdaf18a0-jpeg.236050/)
the tab is removed due to lack of a bridged intake. so, you are good. I had to do it on 2x of mine.
see about getting the head cut, i did mine years ago, typically im in the 150-155 psi range.
I filled up the tank for the first time to find a leak. I knew the tank had seen impact, but I wasn't sure the extent of the damage. Not surprised by the leak, but hoped it would be less damage. As a result, I dug away enough of a layer of gel coat and original glass to lay a piece of .30mm fiberglass. I will follow up with a coat of epoxy inside the tank just where the crack is.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/24d99c07-e88f-48a2-9095-5188f2fa0a29-jpeg.236161/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/4329699d-2a95-42ae-9829-e020503df8e3-jpeg.236162/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/b34520d6-ef94-4b3a-839c-16c54a8b22a0-jpeg.236163/)
I coated the tank in a GM color called Olympic White. I'm going off a hunch that the white is a common Chevy white and the blue a common Chevy blue. I am predicting the blue is an engine block color. The white seems to match perfectly. Even my wife agrees. #science
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/38b783bc-125e-408f-9932-2ff66ff0b7ab-jpeg.236164/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/275e1b49-d734-4729-a3cc-d7d4dc0d0b23-jpeg.236165/)
Under years of paint, I was able to piece together enough original label from the expansion pipes to create replica labels.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/0d47eee1-7ea0-4a2c-9c10-7667b9cd51bb-jpeg.236296/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/a2365e86-ee2e-4165-92be-ce9171230096-jpeg.236297/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/25ba5da8-2260-4a94-ae13-719ca2ad772f-jpeg.236299/)
The bike is running again, and running much better. It's at least at a point to mark it complete and start to rip it around town. Things like the clutch are still not quite adjusted well, so really we're just sorting the little things.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/2a30ee50-8915-4da1-9e7b-ac8c8428d854-jpeg.236300/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/64cf75aa-9521-4b60-970e-af1835fe74ac-jpeg.236301/)
thats awesome.
want to make another set of those decals? id love a set.
A most excellent outcome :clap: That looks the business, nice one operative Miller.
Seeing yours I see mine to some extent, differing style but similar ethos I believe.
That's some sexy sauce, there!
Stellar, Irk! I love it
Holy Moly! That looks sweet.
Thanks so much, y'all.
Seems to run decently enough, but I am taking the clutch apart today. Looks like I put the single ball bearing in the wrong place, and I wonder if I have another mistake or two in there. I have to screw the actuator adjuster in all the way passed the lock nut and I am thinking the clutch plates don't totally engage when the clutch lever is release.
id almost bet it isnt in there. they like to fall out when assembling and on side stand.
Quote from: m in sc on June 24, 2022, 10:35:27 AM
id almost bet it isnt in there. they like to fall out when assembling and on side stand.
With so much Honda experience, I put the ball in the actuator instead of at the other end of the rod. That's my own fault for making assumptions and not sticking to the fiche.
I did figure out my issue, though. Brand new friction discs and pretty much immediately polished my plates. Looks like I need some heavier springs and a little more clutch.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/aa1d291e-4324-42b7-8df7-3fe6fbf0c64b-jpeg.236309/)
I'd mark that up to misadjustment causing it to slip. da sand the steels (or use a scotchbrite on a 90 degree air tool). you running a7 disc clutch and fzr/yz frictions?
I set mine at just toughing, the 3/4 turn out.
there should be a ball in the actuator, captured, and one between the rod and pusher. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on June 24, 2022, 01:59:06 PM
I'd mark that up to misadjustment causing it to slip. da sand the steels (or use a scotchbrite on a 90 degree air tool). you running a7 disc clutch and fzr/yz frictions?
I set mine at just toughing, the 3/4 turn out.
there should be a ball in the actuator, captured, and one between the rod and pusher. :twocents:
HAHA. Well that makes a lot more sense. I am one ball short.
I am running the 7 disc clutch, but not the FZR discs afaik. I have a Barnett clutch in transit from Economy. Trying to decide if I put this back together after a scrubbing these polished plates on a surface plate, or wait out the Barnett clutch.
look in the actuator. there's 3 peen marks from the motor side, behind that should be a ball. (not removeable) then the adjuster screw. .02
Despite all the confusion, a working clutch is a thing. Honed the steel plates on the surface plate and put it all back together with 2mm shims under the springs. Won't change spring rate, but hopefully takes away the early softness in the preload. The clutch is working really well for now.
I think I have the timing part of the equation figured out. Not a fan of having to time it by removing and shifting the rotor. I might see about making a plate to move the sensor 10 mm, so maybe 5 mm off TDC in either direction. I think it took 5 tries and my rotor slipping twice to get it right.
I started at 4mm advanced and finished at 3mm. Figuring a mm is somewhere close to 2 degrees.
I still want more power at the bottom end. I'm not saying there isn't any, but I think it has more to give. The clutch is working for now. It manages the power band much better, but I can't wait until the needle jets and needles I ordered show up P2 6FJ6-3. It's breaking up halfway through the powerband. I think it's not too far off. As a point of reference: my street is perfectly level and straight and roughly 150 yards from sign to sign. I got from 0 - 86mph in 100 yards.
on a 350, 2,0mm is 19.9 degrees, and it changes as the crank moves, more drastic as the piston move away from tdc. that being said, yes, you can slot and move the pickup a bit. 3mm is way too advanced for the whole curve. stick to 2.0 or 1.9mm.
this will help:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/general-tech/ignitions/MMTODEGREES_zps8b09298d.jpg)
I finally got out to a Coffee and Cars and it was on the RD. What a blast this bike has become. I'm super close on the tune. I've been timing it wrong all along, but I finally have it legitimately timed to 1.85mm, checked, double checked and confirmed. That alone made the bike beyond wild. All the power I was searching for at the bottom end is there now. I'm thinking the carbs are good through 3/4 throttle. Something might be missing at the top end.
40 pilot
230 main
P2 needle jet.
TM32 stock needle
Teazer has some notes using a 6FJ6-3 needle with the P-2 needle jet. I have a set, but I'm holding on swapping them out. The tip is super fat, so I am not sure how that will play on the street. How each parameter on a needle affects output is something I still have a long way to go to be educated at guessing on needles.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/2ae6be84-f841-4fe1-a801-8cd466fd28d1-jpeg.236368/)
I lost a shifter on the road during one of my shakedown runs. That's a first for me. Fortunately, I lost it in 2nd gear, so super easy to u-turn and get it. A longer screw and a locknut fixed it. Anyone else have any issues with the length of these stock shifters? I keep wanting to miss 4th gear. Not sure if it's something to do with positive contact on the shift because of the length of the shifter or something else. I'll get used to it, but just something I am sorting.
So pleased it's working out, that bike looks uber cool.
Meanwhile my bike stopped/petered out on an elongated test ride and will not start....double/triple checked everything....nothing! :/
Back in the '70s I had to drop my shifter one spline to keep me from missing shifts.
The fun continues. :whistle:
Anyone ever seen this? I spun something in the transmission. Sounds pretty awful, but it runs and rides like nothing happened. I'm about to pull the covers and I have a spare transmission, but hoping I am not going at it too blind.
May have isolated the issue to the main axle that holds the clutch basket, without pulling the motor. Still diagnosing, but I can spin that shaft with my hand and get the sound pretty quick and easy. Possible bearing, bent shift fork or spun gear?
I've not the best experience of this type of issue, but that sounds like a gear contacting a case maybe?
The sound comes across as amplified, like the case is acting as a sound box......perhaps hold a screwdriver against the case with your thumb of the hand you're holding it in your ear.
where's the bearing retainer behind the clutch basket? you're missing a part if you didnt remove it. that will cause the trans input shaft bearing to possibly move. the clip should hold it but still
It does sound like a bad bearing. I had this happen 2x on mine, turned out to actually be a bearing on 1, and a 4th gear on the other.
regardless, take motor out and pull bottom end apart. sucks.
You can flip the motor upside down and split the cases without removing the top end
As always, thanks for the help on this. The retainer was already removed when I took that video. I wanted to get clear access to the bearing before I took it all apart.
It would appear that two of my gears dried out. I can only assume this is from a low oil level. Either my stupidity or something is amiss. I would lean towards stupidity on this one. I measured oil on the fill, so maybe I measured wrong. Slathered some oil on them after I pulled it apart and it all got quiet. No other reason those gears could dry out is there? Sure does explain why it rode the rest of the way home as though nothing happened, just loud af.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/ea2cf628-f56c-43dd-82e4-e69fe695551e-jpeg.236372/)
i ran a transmission completley dry once. total brain fart. realized it 20 miles from home. :huh:
pulled over, got 2 qts of oil from a gas station, dumped in 1 1/4, and it never made a noise again and worked fine. got lucky.
When my twins were babies I had to go deal with a spectacular poop explosion while doing an oil change on my YZ250.
Well I took it out the next day with zero oil in the trans. clutch started acting weird after about 2 hours and it took another 2 to get back to my truck. All tight technical trails so no high speed stuff. Trans bearings had about 10 hours on them when I did this. Stripped down and only 1 bearing felt notchy and needed replacing. I thought my trans was toast, but only the clutch plates were fubar.
A couple things are happening, most notably the elimination of 7lbs of unsprung weight hanging off the front end. It was no secret that there was way more brake than necessary on this bike. It didn't occur to me until riding it that there was way too much brake. Down a caliper and rotor, it should be so much better.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/3dd06f38-1109-485d-8aba-1dbffc37e040-jpeg.236374/)
Also of note, the crown of the piston was a solid dark color with slight brownish stain on the underside. As I understand it, this means I am rich or it's oil related. I am running 36:1 atm. I read 32:1 is a number, as well. Mainly looking for a base on oil and mix, to situate myself with the least amount of variables to focus on carb tune. At 40/230/P2, I am surprised to be jetted rich.
I THINK THE PILOT MAY BE A BIT LARGE. TRY A 37.5. where is the air screw? MY method is to throw as much fuel at it as i can till it I lose performance a hair, then back up 1.
and yeah, i had a dual disc setup too. and did the same thing. but it looked tits and was ridiculous braking :gentleman:
then:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/LC-HYBRID/spoked-wheels/ft-fender-spoke_1_zpsqhv3bv7m.jpg)
now:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/LC-HYBRID/tm32s-2020/20200620_195217.jpg)
Back with updated beauty shots and to report. The Economy clutch makes a world of difference. I thought there was a chance I was losing a decent amount of power in the clutch. It's scary good now. The transmission is oiled and quiet. I think I averted disaster there.
Put it all back together with 1.85 on timing, and holds 6psi in the leakdown.
Temps can reach 165° during a succession of traffic lights, but cruises below 150°. I'm really happy about this.
The CB650 forks are decent, but I want to see what I can do to make them better.
It's incredible what deleting 7lbs of unsprung mass does. I'm hoping the weight in somewhere near 300lbs, though I have no idea. Regardless, 7lbs is a chunk. It feels much better, though I still have quite a bit of chicken strips to deal with to really know.
The bike feels all around better now. Power delivery is pretty crisp. If I lay it on, it want's to shudder the back wheel. Not sure if this is something I can tune out with the rear suspension, or if it's just the nature of power to weight. Regardless, grip is good and it's getting off like a rocket.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/5a1d5e12-91e8-46e1-b840-b4b33f00c275-jpeg.236381/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/c6f94bb4-39d9-4ee5-85d0-41a5fbc98825-jpeg.236382/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/d9d84f32-5736-4852-a9e9-634773316ea2-jpeg.236383/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/b3569728-5785-4987-87f4-f978ab2aef4a-jpeg.236384/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/e81a32ef-f95f-492b-a3fa-7de860f28ba7-jpeg.236385/)
great news! thats awesome.
I would guess your weight in the 320-330 range, not that it really matters. I know, feels lighter but Ive weighed a few bikes in my time, including my hybrid as well. the motor is over or just at 100 lbs alone. But, regardless, glad you go it sorted out. :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader:
That is looking very tasty indeed.
What are you looking to 'improve' on the forks? A fork brace* might help steering and stiffer/thicker fork oil could improve damping. As the forks are CB650 there should be no need to up the spring poundage for such a lightweight? I'm no expert btw.
* Micron braces were/are the kiddie in the UK...other brands are available. :) Prices are rising as I paid sub £50 ($65) but see them reaching £100+ these days.
Quote from: NoRiders on July 15, 2022, 07:16:40 AM
That is looking very tasty indeed.
What are you looking to 'improve' on the forks? A fork brace* might help steering and stiffer/thicker fork oil could improve damping. As the forks are CB650 there should be no need to up the spring poundage for such a lightweight? I'm no expert btw.
* Micron braces were/are the kiddie in the UK...other brands are available. :) Prices are rising as I paid sub £50 ($65) but see them reaching £100+ these days.
I'm working with fluids and looking into emulators. Maybe going down on spring rate or swapping for progressive springs.
I really love the A/C LC hybrid here. Also some great tips on tuning the TMs, might try and find a set.
The feel is different with progressive front springs. Some like it, some don't. Only one way to find out :)
Irk, what happened to your water pump?
Quote from: 85RZwade on July 29, 2022, 04:07:43 PM
Irk, what happened to your water pump?
I moved it to under the carbs. I chatted with a guy on one of the RD FB pages who did the swap and he runs a small cylindrical shaped pump who's inlet and outlet are 90 degrees from each other. The coolant exits the between carbs from the head and 90s through the pump and straight out the end through the opening under the reed cage. I think I will eventually switch to that pump and setup. With the Prius pump, I have to run the line around the right carb, but I think I have a cleaner setup not using the oil pump location, plus I now can option back to an oil pump (I won't). I figure the pump stays cooler under the carbs, instead of inside an engine cover, but I have nothing to prove that.
Looks like a little forbidden love between my stator and the magneto. This is why we use the red Loctite, my friends. $250 oversight in the books. Offerings to the Gods.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/11d0277e-4aef-4c74-b193-d748243b6ebf-jpeg.236467/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/e29e2112-b297-4dc3-80c8-49de01e4316f-jpeg.236468/)
Quote from: irk_miller on July 30, 2022, 09:50:34 PM
Looks like a little forbidden love between my stator and the magneto. This is why we use the red Loctite, my friends. $250 oversight in the books. Offerings to the Gods.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/11d0277e-4aef-4c74-b193-d748243b6ebf-jpeg.236467/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/e29e2112-b297-4dc3-80c8-49de01e4316f-jpeg.236468/)
Looks like a night of booze and the morning coffee brings back reason. All I really lost was the plastic coating over the magnets. I cleaned the rotor up on the lathe, insured balance, got all the plastic off the stator, and coated everything in shellac. Everything seems good to go.
200 miles
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/ec0f9edf-34fe-44a7-8b0b-55563676675a-jpeg.236495/)
Is the Radian swingarm a direct fit onto the RD350 frame?
Assuming that this is lighter than the standard swingarm?
Quote from: 350GUY on August 02, 2022, 09:47:47 PM
Is the Radian swingarm a direct fit onto the RD350 frame?
Assuming that this is lighter than the standard swingarm?
Direct fit. Lighter and stiffer. Also longer. 19.5" pivot to axle in the center adjustment.
bit dark but ok. try leaning the needle one clip. might need to then go in 1/4 on air screw but you're damn close.
Yeah, I'd take that all day if it was running cleanly. Would probably do the airscrew first for a while and then try the needle if I really needed more, both/either are pretty easy to do.
Quote from: Clem710 on August 03, 2022, 04:52:13 PM
Yeah, I'd take that all day if it was running cleanly. Would probably do the airscrew first for a while and then try the needle if I really needed more, both/either are pretty easy to do.
That's kinda how I'm looking at it. It's running great and hitting it's spots. I think I'll hold steady until I dyno.
I replaced the CB front end, which was absolutely awful, with a TL1000r. I'm sure there are a plethora of opinions against this swap, but it rides and handles incredibly well. I can't believe I thought the last front end had potential.
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/dbe70742-4bd8-4af4-93cb-af4f05223234-jpeg.236627/)
(https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?attachments/fb95f189-fc9a-4c67-9e8a-f86ce4ff9388-jpeg.236628/)
I lost track, irk...did GSXR front end not work with the wheels? At any rate, I see no problemo with the TL's. Looks great and if it works, why not? Love that machine. Where are u in Ga? We need to meet up and ride so I can ogle this beast in person!! Great build!
Quote from: DaytonaCafe on September 14, 2022, 11:18:13 AM
I lost track, irk...did GSXR front end not work with the wheels? At any rate, I see no problemo with the TL's. Looks great and if it works, why not? Love that machine. Where are u in Ga? We need to meet up and ride so I can ogle this beast in person!! Great build!
Thanks for saying. I'm in Augusta. I would love to ride. I have a buddy whose wife's family is in Chickamauga, so I'm up there riding a bunch too.
I like the TL front end better to run the street bars. I am saving the other front end for the next build which I'll run the clip ons with a vintage TZ fairing. This being an LC conversion, I didn't want to cut up the fairing, and the changes cascaded from there
:drool: