I have one of these silly things:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tfWnJq1/image.jpg)
And I need to bore a 15mm hole in aluminum, but I don't have a chuck for the tailstock, like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/YS8KPPbF/image.jpg)
High school machine shop was quite a while ago, so I need a little help here. The tailstock is a Morse 0 taper, which I find to be tiny. Am I going to be able to find a chuck capable of holding a 15mm drill with a 0 taper, and if such a thing exists, where should I look?
KBC list a 0MT with 3JT... but I seriously doubt they have stock.
0MT is pretty small.
yeah those are tiny. when i worked on clocks for a living, one of the guys int he guild had one of those with a neat home-brewed colleting system.
Very very cool though. :olaf:
15mm is pretty large for a 0 morse taper. How about a much smaller drill bit (morse taper type) and open that up to finished size with a boring tool in the cross slide?
https://littlemachineshop.com/ (https://littlemachineshop.com/)
These guys have a lot of stuff for little lathes.
what is the work-piece? I see a cross slide. cant you use a boring arm on it? just predill as said before.
Wow! Thank you all for so much input so quickly, I'm grateful. I just got some tooling and I'll see if the boring arm is small enough to make a 15mm hole. Also thought to look for a drill with a reduced shank. I will check the resources you guys kindly provided, and how does one get started working on clocks for a living, Mark? There's gotta be a story there.
i made my own boring arm along time ago out of tool steel and a torch and a grinder. so.. get creative. lol. most of the 1/4" tooling can handle though.
its sort of along story on the clock thing, but did it for (3 yr apprenticeship) 10 yrs, and through college. I miss it but dying art. Hard to keep a motorcycle addiction going.. and pay rent doing that. But i was very very good at it.
Now that you have a lathe you can turn the taper in the tailstock out to MT3
See how this works? You now get to waste HUGE amounts of time making stupid stuff... oh yeah AND spending HUGE amounts of beer monies on tooling.
... and learn how to grind HSS tools. That little thing doesn't have the puff for carbide tooling.
I totally get the appeal of making stupid stuff! Trying not to spend too much beer (motorcycle parts) money, or I'd hire a competent machinist to make parts for me. The last time I did, two little bushings for a shock mount set me back $60.
I don't think I can bore this little guy out much at all:
(https://i.postimg.cc/65BL05yY/image.jpg)
And no, I don't have giant hands; that's a pinkie finger. Maybe I'm worrying too much about getting the axle bore concentric, but I just don't want that axle in a bind when this is all done.
Glad I didn't spend much on the carbide tooling you can see in the picture! I have ground HSS cutting tools, and still have at least a couple, but they're too big for this dinky tool post. More shopping.
what is that a lathe for ants?!?
Grasshoppers. Ants plan ahead.
you could do it for sure. I've used stuff that size up to 9 foot bed lathes. the challenge is in figuring out how to do it. :cheerleader: side note, I made my live center for nine as well. spins in 2 bearings that came out of a few banshee water pump service kits I couldn't use . been doing great for 15? yrs
Decent carbide boring bars can be had for nothing online these days. Get one and go to town.
If that doesn't work, send it to me and I'll bore it. I'm off on vacation for a week though.
I made a boring bar out of an Allen wrench. Then reground it into a tool to cut an o-ring groove.
Quote from: pidjones on September 02, 2021, 07:40:06 PM
I made a boring bar out of an Allen wrench. Then reground it into a tool to cut an o-ring groove.
That's a great idea. It just has to be harder than the aluminum, right? I measured my little boring bar (12.5mm) and stuck it inside the 15mm wheel bearing, and it'll work. Might have to relieve a little material below the carbide, but it'll work.
Spent most of the day working on our motor home (interesting to me that my iPad suggests Motörhead when I start to type motor home...Lemmy fans at Apple, I suppose) so not much happened on the bike front. Did get a partial shipment from Speedmotoco; cool headlight and some angled UNI filters for the LC's VM30s. The mounting brackets for the headlight haven't shipped yet, so I could only hold it out in front of the RD's triple clamps and imagine. Might look better on the LC.
oh yeah, i have a bunch of tooling thats radiused on the bottom just for this. you'll get it. allen wrench is a great idea, too. :cheerleader:
littlemachineshop has a 0 MT to 33 JT arbor for $10 and a 1/16-5/8 Jacobs Chuck for $38; the combination would allow me to bore a 15mm hole. You guys have shown that this particular job can be done with a boring bar, and I won't have to own a 15mm drill, but I'd like to be able to bore the pilot hole with some accuracy now and in the future. Thank you for the website Rodney, and all the other ideas gentlemen! I look forward to making swarf.
throwin' chips and taking names. :haw:
Quote from: 85RZwade on September 02, 2021, 11:34:43 AM
Wow! Thank you all for so much input so quickly, I'm grateful. I just got some tooling and I'll see if the boring arm is small enough to make a 15mm hole. Also thought to look for a drill with a reduced shank. I will check the resources you guys kindly provided, and how does one get started working on clocks for a living, Mark? There's gotta be a story there.
FWIW, I avoid reduced shank drills like the plague. At least with keyless chucks, they tend to overload the chuck when drilling steel. So you end up with 2 channellock pliers to open the chuck again. In my opinion, reduced shank drills are useful for drilling in wood and plastic only. Not in steel.
Point taken
the only keylless chuck i have is on my dewalt drill and its clutched. on any machine tool, keyed always. also you can get reduced shank drills with 3 flats, they do not spin. or, get a morse tapered end drill bit to fit on the tail stock. $$
Add that to the list of things I didn't think of
I have a 9000rpm keyless chuck. It works perfectly fine. I just can't stop the spindle too fast. I also don't have issues with reduced shanked drills. When I have big drilling jobs I'll use an ER collet (mill) and not the chuck, I get less runout and better bit life this way. I make a stainless part that I use a carbide drill bit ($17 each, 1/8") and carbide is a lot less forgiving than HSS bits, but they last forever in the right conditions. On the lathe I have never had a single issue with a keyless, outside of either using an ER or tapered bit. The advantages with the ER are mostly for CNC, I don't foresee any reason why I would ever need ER on manual machine.
That said, I mostly just drill to form a pilot. I bore from there. That's true on the mill and the lathe. I have less issues boring than I do drilling. Drilling is a much faster means of material removal, and it still has many uses. Boring provides much rounder holes. Since I don't do much (none) long production work, boring has provided me with better results. That's true for proper boring and interpolated boring.
Quote from: pidjones on September 02, 2021, 07:40:06 PM
I made a boring bar out of an Allen wrench. Then reground it into a tool to cut an o-ring groove.
It's been a LONG time since I ground a lathe tool, but I think it needs to look kinda like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvmHqhMz/5-B1-CA205-7052-472-F-999-F-88434-C4093-C6.jpg)
And it's still too big to fit in the freakin hole. :confusing2: More grinding.
Start with a smaller allen?
Fought it for almost two hours last night; I think I'm going to just drill the damn thing.
Send me a sketch of what you need. I owe you a PM anyways, as I recall.