Hi fellow smokers.
I'd always wanted a street two-stroke bike. I grew up with a Suzuki TS90 back home (Australia), and always loved the two stroke vibe. Anyway, I'm an adult and live in Oregon now. I've been playing with old Hondas and Harleys mostly but came across an old R5 in the mud of a junkyard in Olympia. Definitely not close to running, mostly just a frame and motor.
So with the little bit of know how I have, I've got some carbs and rebuilt them and ordered seals and gaskets for the motor. Everything in there spins freely, so fingers crossed there's not a tonne to do. I dropped the oil out of it and it's surprisingly clean. Inside the cylinders looks to be in decent condition too. I don't have a way to get a number on compression but it's definitely able to suck and blow.
Anyway ... so I know I've done this arse about, but I was given a set of Triumph Thruxton wheels for very cheap. I don't think they're anything special, and I'd have to rotate the rear wheel (Sprockets on the riders right) but they've got my favourite feature .. "cheap".
MY QUESTION IS, can anyone recommend a swing arm and forks that will take the slightly wider Thruxton set up? I am a machinist / welder my trade so all manner of modifications are possible. I'd just like to not hack the frame at this point, would rather hack at an eBay swingarm and forks off another more modern 'dime a dozen' bike. I figured if I can get the swingarm and forks sorted for <$300 I'll be happy. I can easily fab up a bracket for a calliper too.
So yeah .. starting point - making my new wheels fit. Suggestions welcome.
Welcome aboard, and congratulations on the junkyard find (in my backyard! How did I not find that?). I can tell you that RD350, RD350LC, RZ350 and '81-'83 TZ250 swingarms are all the same width at the front and pivot axle diameter. FZ600 is a bit wider at the pivot but easy to narrow and will accept more tire; do you know what size tire you will run back there?
I am fitting a GSX-R600 fork to my RD and it's looking like a good fit with a couple of appropriate bearings from All Balls. '97 conventional fork, cartridge, 45mm and accepts the 6-piston caliper(s) from the TL1000R. I'm just up the road in Chehalis if I can help.
Right on man.
The rear tire is 130/80 17". So not a big wheel at all. I think it comes to 8 1/4" inches from outter hub to outter face of rotor. Worst case I can fabricate something myself but I'll look into that options you listed. Thanks!
fzr600 or 400 is a good option. i have an fzr400 on the back of mine. also, its a bit longer so beware. I added twin shock mounts and narrowed the swingarm but its been on there 15? years. Im running a 130 rear as well on laced sun rims. off set sprocket ft will be needed as well and it gets TIGHT but can be done.
How wide does it need to be across the front end? I have a GS500 swinger here that you can have for mates's rates. I bought it for a GT750 project and ended up using a TL1000 instead. PM me.
BTW, our local store just started selling Tim Tams (made in OZ). If you find a good source for crumpets, I'd love to hear it.
Quote from: teazer on December 17, 2021, 12:10:32 PM
If you find a good source for crumpets, I'd love to hear it.
Honestly it was easier to find a 50 year old motorcycle than good crumpets. I've found some here and there, but nothing that really comes close to the ones back home in texture.
I happen to have a few boxes of R-5 spares, let me know what you need!.............................Wade, how did I not find that :umm:
You were playing guitar that day.
One problem (of many) that I have, is I'm looking for good modern(ish) forks that aren't too beefy, possibly not USD, yet aren't designed for clip ons.
I would much rather prefer conventional bar mounts. I guess in my head I'm thinking something along the lines of the Bonneville, W800 etc style. Maybe even something a little different like the style the Ducati Scrambler had.
Can anyone think of a bike model that could donate forks that suit?
Edit: I guess I can always modify the top clamp easily enough, I'd just rather not start cutting holes in something that wasn't designed to have it.
Unfortunately, it appears Strumpet's Crumpets in Milwaukie OR has shut it's doors.
Twas owned by an acquaintance of mine. No idea the authenticity of the product, but knowing Tony, I'm sure they were damn good.
BTW I'm here in Portland too.
Quote from: pdxjim on December 18, 2021, 02:14:30 AM
BTW I'm here in Portland too.
Well howdy neighbour.
I was going to try and get this bike up and running by the next Alley Sweeper, but I think that time line is too ambitious haha.
I looked up the crumpet place you mentioned and I'm kicking myself as I must have gone past it 90000000000 times while it was still there. Such is life.
I have fzr forks with radian? fj? uppers on mine. not super modern but leap years ahead of stock rd forks. just an option.
Quote from: m in sc on December 18, 2021, 08:32:28 AM
I have fzr forks with radian? fj? uppers on mine. not super modern but leap years ahead of stock rd forks. just an option.
I like it. The eBay prices are definitely up my alley, leave a bit of room in the budget to buy/make a better upper clamp.
you can kind of get an idea here. i did have to make an upper tree and mess with the stem, and wheel bushings etc.
but its really good.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/LC-HYBRID/2018-updates/forks-cleanup/20181129_1835072_zpsoq94vbjf.jpg)
this was it with stock fzr uppers. too long, hence why i went with the fj? upper ones.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/LC-HYBRID/2018-updates/forks-cleanup/IMG-20160713-00249_zpstb9rjfby.jpg)
now nick p grafted a sportster set of forks onto his at one point.. i dont have any pics but they were 41mm and actually worked really well for him. so, theres options.
Quote from: RD4140 on December 18, 2021, 08:10:19 AM
Well howdy neighbour.
I was going to try and get this bike up and running by the next Alley Sweeper, but I think that time line is too ambitious haha.
I looked up the crumpet place you mentioned and I'm kicking myself as I must have gone past it 90000000000 times while it was still there. Such is life.
We haven't set a date for the Alley Sweeper yet, so you may (or may not) be in luck, depending on your timeline.
My club sang-froidridingclub.com (http://sang-froidridingclub.com) started that ride way back in 2009. We've promoted it, dis-owned it, and re-adopted it a few times thru the years as our's, and the general public's, enthusiasm has waxed and waned.
(https://i.ibb.co/9HY0gkX/sweeper-robe-guy.jpg)
Anyway, we've got quite a stable of RD parts and parts bikes laying around, so if you're needing some small (or large) esoteric bit(s), give me a shout and I'll put the word out.
For those out da loop:
I did the Sweeper last year on a 78' Honda CB125s. A pretty darn fun day.
All the bumping around made my headlight break in half through, so lesson learned - take a roll of duct tape next time.
EDIT: Well, it was this year I guess.
Haha, yup.
I've done it on my TDR and on my plated 300XCW.
TDR is super sketchy on supersport tires, and the 300 is way too easy.
Looks like a Hoot! Keep us in the loop for the next one.
Guy in the bathrobe has that "I just called the cops" look to him.
IR8D8R
Quote from: IR8D8R on December 23, 2021, 12:57:06 PM
Guy in the bathrobe has that "I just called the cops" look to him.
IR8D8R
We've been doing this long enough the cops are totally chill. These alleys are all (well, mostly) public-rights-of-way, and as long as we keep to the 15mph limit, all is cool.
Had a gun pulled on some riders last year by an irate neighbor. Things didn't end well for him.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Portland/comments/moh3dh/alley_sweeper_went_about_as_expected_today/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
Quote from: pdxjim on December 23, 2021, 02:56:50 PM
Quote from: IR8D8R on December 23, 2021, 12:57:06 PM
Guy in the bathrobe has that "I just called the cops" look to him.
IR8D8R
Had a gun pulled on some riders last year by an irate neighbor. Things didn't end well for him.
Duuude, I rode past this nutter and at the next stop my friend was like 'um, was that a guy with a gun ...' ... we could not believe what we saw. A little chilling, but crazies be crazy.
So howdy again. Hope Xmas treated you all well, and if you're in the Northwest enjoying a little snow.
Looking for some feedback about what to do at the rear end of my R5.
The drive sprocket seems to be at about 75mm from the centreline of the bike. If I want to use this wheel off a Thruxton, it would make the new sprocket line be almost 95mm from the centreline, which is excessive. I believe the chain would be touching the frame at this point. I doubt there's even a sprocket that would give me a 20mm offset.
I'm considering taking the cush hub out of the Thruxton wheel I have and putting it in the lathe and machining down the face that the rear sprocket sits on. Essentially bringing it closer to the tyre. I have about 30mm clearance. Was thinking of taking off 10mm. Looking at it structurally, I don't think I'd be doing anything too sketchy. I would make up the rest of the difference with an offset sprocket at the front.
Has anyone done this, is it outlandish/barbaric or commons practice?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mz8iikmIaAOVE73tZQ_A3b0RkTnBS3-7d40veg80pyw4xKj6CNW4MOAJ5QTLXgWbJs1u4smYj8wPBW25e_uIOzN6-r1RtAhP14eC6A0Z7q5CtbUKMwLrSS_VwAthX6RhNE8SKgE0rd6Cw7XBt_shYodryK3M0WHBfqNKSwaQBZZ9jZ9-YVya8Mo2vqemhkSFGRi1vLPXu0I0y739YBN-aMfgk3aMjDTJtWyuMA4Dgu3RgWx01qDDmRqxaJZ6IcjMotYI9g9wX7yYCSMYeQqjDOy-XDtyhoDQvTGk7ehlZCW7ZeJZbNz1VTy_1UzzCthKu_sqJ9fWzdJSPcXQ7QkjPlVFsnGVnydiHWarKLpp73dGhIr65JK_eWZ0xc3zodCYU2Lr-ThnDelCFqYkq5HBl36qLfBYPFtYRc_SpsbfxbXwnNNGSs1xef-tNnrg0NQVhIgfZJW_U0enlp58lDtOOdEqsHg_CSLEPvjpcRhbqUcoTrqCDZ-K-rKvD0GopTmI9NV_QNugAszV6Uj3w787lW20-PJ6poLbfqoUieYPFVC0th5Eg-d6v9bSbtImccnMK4DMxEWsQ6XwbliP9Na7Z8_bV7NHeT0fW6-qJF33Fo3E-kyR8UkmZ8qr_4gI1hibCBLch_VcYtFypMr1dlRj9Hx-0_tkVLfuBmpFo94IDHbCt22N30zSvojoFR38FKNkq2kmTJhvfBnD6wZ3I67YpA=w1908-h1430-no?authuser=0)
If you feel confident there's enough material in the cush drive to maintain structural integrity, it sounds reasonable to me...but I haven't done it. I thought about it, if that counts for anything.
Someone had to do that to a GSXR and TL1000 rear wheel to fit in GT750 and then had to do that to a 6" wide R1 wheel for the drag GT750 and then have to add a different offset sprocket to work with the longer GS11000E transmission.
Split the difference. Take as much as is practical off the sprocket carrier but make sure there's enough meat for the mounting studs/bolts.
A man's got to do what a man's got to do. :whistle:
Yeah, I figured it would be okay but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something fundamentally wrong.
The mounting points of the casting get wider as they go, so can't see it being less capable of taking those radial forces. And with the studs being threaded down into them, it looks like they're solid all the way through. No cavities on the rear face of anything..
Thanks for your input.
I got some forks today, I think they're from a 2000 GSX-R 600.
They're a tad on the beefy side and will probably look odd on the skinny R5, but I'm gonna go with them until I find a better option. $110 and they're nice and straight, so a good building block regardless.
Can't beat that price!
And they appear to be the same as the '97 forks I'm using; inner tube part number is the same, according to Partzilla.
I feel like they're comically beefy, but what the heck I'll go with it :umm:
I guess next I'll turn up the appropriate spacers for the stem, then bushings for the wheel spindle. Slowly but surely.
Different strokes, but when I mocked mine in place they looked just right to me. I believe they'll grow on you once there's a wheel, fender, headlight etc. in place. Go, man go!
fyi the pic links arent working on my end.
:help: Weird, yeh when they upload they appear then disappear. AH well.
I'll see if the attachment thing works.
that works. linking a view link from a google account or other doesn't always work as you typically need to be on THAT platform to view it (i did look at the code you posted). attachments work best for the most part, but they need to be under 6mb. that should be plenty. also it limits the image size to 5000x5000 pixels.
in general (for all) so, if you are running max resolution on your i-phone and the pic wont post, resize it. If you don't know how, that's on you as i don't use an i phone.
:twocents:
https://www.businessinsider.com/how-to-resize-an-image-on-iphone
Do you need a GSX-R axle? I have one I'm not going to use.
it looks like the bike didn't skip arm day. Beefy :bacon:
The forks look great on it.
Quote from: 85RZwade on January 02, 2022, 04:50:36 PM
Do you need a GSX-R axle? I have one I'm not going to use.
Thanks for the offer, unfortunately I'd already ordered one on Fleabay.
The roller bearing recommended by all balls for the fork swap (actually, there's no recommendation available for a 1970 R5, so went with the oldest RD - 30x48x12) is fine for the bottom of the stem, but the top of the neck is much more shallow so part of the bearing protrudes, rendering the dust seal useless.
I'm trying to source a bearing that is the same ID/OD but just 8mm width. The all balls site sucks for finding single bearings.
Worse case I figure I can run balls up top again.
The longer stem from the GSXR is kinda unsightly but will be functional enough. Had to run a fat washer to give me enough thread to work with or else the slotted nuts would bottom out.
On my RD400, I just replaced the lower with rollers. The upper sees a lot less abuse.
Find or make a thin wall cup shaped dust cover. Stock RD/R5 style should work.
yeah i made spacers to move my bearing races around on the stem on the lower tree. been that way for a decade, still kicking it.
On my EX250 racer I put 95 Honda F3 forks on them
Total improved handling. The EX neck axle fit into the f3 tree good but welded it up anyways. Works very well.
I have a F4 fork and hope to do the same on my other R5.
Quote from: m in sc on January 03, 2022, 10:53:40 AM
yeah i made spacers to move my bearing races around on the stem on the lower tree. been that way for a decade, still kicking it.
Do you have a spacer below the lower race on the triple clamp?
That's pretty clever.
lower clamp has a spacer under the inner race that took it right to the edge of the curve. on the top, i actually turned the stem down a bit to get the narrower upper race down on the stem a bit. like maybe 1/4" ? wasnt much.
on another bike (an old bsa my buddy has), i actually made a spacer that sat int he neck bearing race and took up the space. long story but it was to fit a kawasaki h1 front end on it. worked great. probably the only bsa gold star with an h1-e front end on it anywhere.
Howdy,
Hey does anyone have a photo or any details of how they've retrofitted a rear brake master cylinder to a R5/350?
Not yet...but maybe this helps:
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1438.195 (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=1438.195)
Thanks :clap:
Also, in my usual ass-about style it seems Vermont have sent me fresh tags and paperwork yet no license plate.
I feel like 99.99% of people get the plate first then ask where the tags are, haha.
Mailed in paperwork and cheque December 17th
Vermont DMV cashed the cheque December 29th
Tags received Jan 10th.
Not a bad turn around all things considered.
Had a bit of time on the lathe today and finished (I think) my bushings and spacers to put the Thruxton wheel into the GSXR forks.
I couldn't use the Thruxton front axle (17mm) because the GSXR forks are wider, so used the rear axle. I ended up adding 20mm of thread, and shortening the whole axle my 20mm.
Had to make two 32mm OD Bushing to pass through the forks. I made one with a bit of thread to match the axle thread (M16x1.5) so it's threaded through there, as well as has a locking nut.
One of the bearing/seal sleeves is monstrously big to make up for not having the Speedometer hub in there. It doesn't look too bad, but I'm not a huge fan.
I'm kinda making this up as I go, so if there's anything glaringly wrong - feel free to drop some constructive criticism.
They look perfect, but they'll have to do.
looks great. this should be a nice result. :olaf:
So lads, I have more punishing questions. Throwing the front end together is kids plays compared to the rear end.
I'm attempting to fit a Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 swing arm on. It's a great fit at the pivot point, however if I want to centralise the rear wheel I need to come left / clutch side about 1/2"-3/4". This is bringing the left hub right up to the swing arm, so I was wondering has anyone ever machined off a bit of the pivot width and just made a bushing/space to take up the left over space on the other side? See attachment for more context.
So, it's also put the wheel about 2.0" further back. What implications does this extended wheel base have? I'm trying to imagine it having a huge negative effect on cornering and wheelies, but being that my daily ride is a Harley I can't imagine it's terrible in comparison.
Also, this puts the rear suspension out of whack. I'm handy with the mill and TIG welder so relocating the swing arm suspension mount isn't a problem at at. Is that the common solution for this? I can actually make the swing arm shorter too if thats not too crazy. Not that hard to elongate the slots on the milling machine.
Thanks for any advice y'all got.
I think typically, its longer shocks for the rear to compensate. The RD400 swingarm is about that long if I remember reading here.
Also, the rear wheel offset is hard to picture without seeing it. The swingarm doesn't look very far offset, but in your description, it would make sense to need to trim some of it off.
It's not a huge offset. I can't see the harm in giving it a try. It's a mass produced part from India, no one's going to shed a tear if it ends up in the scrap bin.
The Thruxton rear wheel assembly is pretty damn wide, so i was going to have to turn about 10mm off the mounting face for the sprocket to even get it to line up anywhere near the motor drive sprocket anyway.
Cut N Shut.
should work fine, mill it down and shift it w a spacer on the other side if theres room.
I finally got around to machining the pivot on the swing arm down. Machined 10mm off width, then bored out to suit bearing.
All in all, a pretty easy operation.
However, I rage quit my job yesterday after an absolute slap in the face of a measly pay raise so hopefully I don't need too much more machining done until I start a new gig.
oof.
Well what do y'knowww, i think it worked.
Should have machined up the spacer before I rage quit my job, but ya live and ya learn I guess. Some washers seem to be doing the job fairly well.
That's sweet!
Hello lads (and ladettes?)
Back on my project. I gotta clean these cylinders up (i assume), there's a light bit of surface rust in them. I read the manual and it addresses shit on the piston itself but not in the cylinder. Whats the neatest way to get this back to practical use?
I always hone out hydraulic cylinders with some oil, but those seals are normally far more forgiving.
Can you do a light bit of honing in these cylinders and not have to worry about the piston rings? It's really just some light rust on the surface. Aside from finger bashing it with some light sand paper I can't think of anything else.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.
ues, hone them lightly and see if there is any pitting afterwards. if not, you are good to go. :toot:
Dear Diary -
Well, everything's back together. The transmission was easier than I expected, everything looked pretty good and spun smoothly but I put in new seals just because. It seems to click through all the gears up and down as expected. The only boo boo I made was forgetting to put the little nipples on the crankshaft bearings down into their grooves on reassembly. I pulled it back apart and made sure I got that right. It kinda dimpled the bearing surface but I cleaned that up so I think no harm done.
However, the top ends been a bit of a PITA/head scratcher. I didn't change anything in there, but put in new gaskets when installing. I know i got everything back in, there's no parts left over. Everything got torqued down per the manual.
But I'm only getting 65 psi compression in the cylinders. Thats cold, both dry and oiled. I suspect my test gauge might be crap, so I've ordered another one. I wasn't able to test it before disassembly because it was stored outdoors with no carbs or plugs, so the cylinders got some crap in them and I wasn't game to make it spin before cleaning it all out.
I had a spare complete R5 motor that I haven't fiddled with and it also had exactly 65 psi compression. I'm guessing my gauge poops its pants around 65 psi. I'm a gambling man but don't like the odds of two unrelated motors being so similar.
Anyway, I'm not going to fuss with it right now, I'd rather get the ignition, timing and electronics done and circle back to the cylinders. I don't have a garage so I rent a workspace in a friends garage. I realise that potentially I'll have to pull it all part again if I need new rings or top end work, but I can do that during summer when it's sunny out and can work on it in my yard again without freezing me nuts off.
Anyway, thats it for now.
A common compression test mistake is not holding the throttle wide open.
Yah I tried "everything" (that I could think of). Throttle wide open, carbs on, carbs off etc. the tester adaptor and seals not being tight enough, a leak in a fitting etc. I've think I've ticked off most of the rookie mistakes.
Hi - I have questions: :stupid-1:
Can anyone recommend an easy to find 2-stroke oil (will be running pre-mix), and also a gear oil? Located west coast USA so no fancy english stuff. I see most people say 10W40 for the g/b but is there anything particularly recommendable?
Also anyone want to guess what size jets / carb settings I'll need for an 1970 R5 with DG pipes and Y-boot with K&N Filter, running pre-mix??
With the vape ignition system installed and sparking nicely, I'm getting pretty close to baby's first kick over.
Still chasing down a few extra PSI compression but I'm still suspecting it's my dumb tester, so I'm going to forge ahead while saving for a better one.
Thanks :cool:
Uh oh, an oil question! :ninja:
I can guarantee that you're going to get as many different oil suggestions as there are replies. Here are MY preferences:
2T oil: Motul 710. All my bikes are injected, but this oil is for both injected and pre-mix applications.
Transmission: BelRay Gearsaver 80w
Both are available at most bike shops, including Cycle Gear.
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 01, 2023, 09:22:34 PM
Uh oh, an oil question! :ninja:
I can guarantee that you're going to get as many different oil suggestions as there are replies. Here are MY preferences:
2T oil: Motul 710. All my bikes are injected, but this oil is for both injected and pre-mix applications.
Transmission: BelRay Gearsaver 80w
Both are available at most bike shops, including Cycle Gear.
Yeah, I read that whole ass oil thread and came out even less sure of what to use.
I like your suggestions, I've been running Motul in all my bikes and never had a problem so I'll stick with that.
Thanks.
I've used Motul 710 with no trouble. I use the 800 for the premix only bikes, and 510 for injector oil if I can find it.
Motul 710.............. :twocents:
and when you're pouring it in, the bottle still reads "OIL" :haw:
Has anyone else with an R5 had any issues with gasket profile on the clutch cover?
Mine has a section where it goes outward, leaving only a very small section to sandwich ..
I had a slight weep from this area, and suspect it might have extruded out when torqued down.
Are some gasket brands better than others? This is from NE Brand.
Also, has anyone got away with using Loctite 515 or 587 on this cover (or any liquid gasket maker)? I used them alot in industrial applications and never have a problem but not sure if it will work for this application.
Hmm that's interesting as I can see in the pic it's not quite lining up. They say you really shouldn't have to use something like loctite as you asked about but when I did mine I used some Yamabond that I had from splitting the cases and reassembly. I had it and the previous owner had used it and I just felt like it would fill in any gaps and what would it hurt? :whistle:...actually worked quite well and I was able to take the cover off when I needed to service a slipping clutch and reattach. I stuck the gasket with the Yamabond on the clutch cover. Although I'm not sure what maker's gasket I used, it was a much better line up of case/gasket/clutch cover on a 75' rd250. So sorry I can't be more helpful there. If you don't wanna spring for another gasket from say Economy Cycles( a forum sponsor) my suggestion is that it looks to me like you could snip the gasket on the other side of that bolt hole where your finger is in the pic then it will line up at that area shown and yeah just use what you feel comfortable with on one side of the gasket to get it to stick...I bet that would work just fine) but maybe better to just get a better fitting gasket.
I'll pop in here to say I use BRP(Bombardier) XPS Snowmobile/PWC oil from the Polaris shop down the end of SE Division St at the river.
Last time I bought it was $40/gallon, and it's full synth and smells good and is designed for premix or injection systems.
Gear oil I use Rotella T5/T6. It's great stuff and available cheap(ish) and any autoparts store and even cheaper at Walmart (but fcuk walmart).
Dear Diary,
I finally got the chance to roll the bike outside and give it a kick.
This is pretty much straight out the box and bolted together. Junkyard bike/motor + vape ignition + DG's. From here I guess I'm going to concentrate on learning to tune it up. You can probably hear it don't sound spot on, so I welcome any input. I think I'm running 150 main and 30 pilot in the carbs, but I'll have to check I actually made that change.
I'm pretty happy that this old junkyard dog has a second chance at life.
I have a laundry list of parts I need but really need a petcock if anyones got a spare laying around they want to flip. I need to get some exhaust gaskets too it seems, not sure how I missed that.
sounds pretty decent but again, its dead cold, will sound better warmed up. good start! :cheerleader:
Bikes coming along nicely, to do list is getting chipped away at ..
gas tank - weld in new gas cap, get petcock, prime/paint, get rubber mounts
brakes - fabricate caliper brackets and cylinder mount
body - fabricate rear fender then electrics/battery tray
electrics - head lamp and brake lights
new handlebars
then stage 2 i guess is wire in turn signals, get a tach/speedo, button up the left overs.
complete and then never start another project again.
Good luck with that never start another project part!