Being a novice at this I thought i would ask to get a direction for a fix.
Got an RD400G with DG pipes
Started it up, both pipes smoke.
Idles & runs good
After warmup, the right side smokes. left is barley visible.
I think bike had sat for a long period.
So did 2T oil leak in, Seal gone?
I have not had time to look at the plugs.
M
I would expect the left seal to suck air in from behind the alternator and the right one to suck in oil from the primary gears/clutch.
First thing to do is a leakdown test and listen for air leaks as the gauge drops.
if crank seal age is unknown, change them. :twocents:
Yup right side smoking heavily probably means the crank seal is no longer sealing. Transmission oil getting sucked into the cylinder.
This may be a stupid question.
But why would oil not get sucked into both cylinders, if the lower chamber is open to both?
Or is it just because that one is closer?
M
The right side is bathed in oil (clutch side), the left side is open to air (points/cdi side). Just because the lab seal is open to both sides doesn't mean the oil will migrate all the way over.
Quote from: Striker1423 on September 20, 2022, 09:52:34 AM
The right side is bathed in oil (clutch side), the left side is open to air (points/cdi side). Just because the lab seal is open to both sides doesn't mean the oil will migrate all the way over.
exactly. the clutch side is smoking more.
OK,
ordered a new seal.
Any other posts here on its removal.
I took the primary gear off the KH250.
So I assume its the same.
The seal was right there.
So just pry it out?
m
no, you need to split the cases, there's a retainer lip on the seal. do both sides, not just one. if the RH one is leaking, for sure the LH one is or very soon will be..
I was hoping you would not say that.
I am very mechanically inclined.
But do not think I want to split the cases myself.
Never done any
I would have to make room in my garage and it would take me weeks to do.
M
its a weekend job. rip the band-aid off and get in there. might as well get a complete seal kit. :twocents:
If you want to experiment, maybe you can pull the clutch-side seal out with a wood screw. Then cut the ridge off the new seal with a razor blade and gently press it in. Apply engine sealant around the perimeter of the seal before pushing it in.
Kawasaki triples don't have the ridge but it's a common way of replacing seals, not requiring splitting the cases.
I have seen a video of that, pulling out with a screw.
That's what I was hoping for.
M
not impossible, but its a weekend fix as they say for snowmobilers. I'd service the whole engine over the winter after the season was up though.
since you covet this thing so much, just do it correctly. Not like you need it to go to work. Just my .02
+1, be happy it was the side that doesnt blow things up. I'm in the same predicament but left side. Ignore advise given on this board at your own peril:)
Buy an old cheap Ninja 250 or a scooter if you dont have anything to ride in the mean time, yeah, I know its not the same, at all:)
I think there is a good walkthrough around here with pics for either the 350 or 300. I have something saved, somewhere, and assume it was from here.
Quote from: Clem710 on September 22, 2022, 05:41:02 PM
+1, be happy it was the side that doesnt blow things up. I'm in the same predicament but left side. Ignore advise given on this board at your own peril:)
Buy an old cheap Ninja 250 or a scooter if you dont have anything to ride in the mean time, yeah, I know its not the same, at all:)
I think there is a good walkthrough around here with pics for either the 350 or 300. I have something saved, somewhere, and assume it was from here.
THIS is a good reference.
https://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=25398.0
Ok.
Tried this at minimum ratio.
Supposed to swell the seals a little.
After 2 weeks it is not smoking.
This may help the shifter seal as well
weakens the seals. I say do it right. that will bite somebody bad down the road.
Mechanic in a can strikes again!