2 STROKE WORLD .net

https://youtu.be/hR8oOjUb9ho

And so it begins. This is the RZ that my friend Karl Jones gave me that covered the guy from Cycle Drag in a large cloud of smoke when Mark and I cranked it in for its' 1st start in five or more years at the Deals Gap meet this year. I recently started the awakening and this is the 1st time I got it to run right and idle. The carbs were amazingly clean and the floats were a couple MM rich but for the life of me I couldn't get it to idle or fall back to idle unless the enrichner was on. This morning on what seemed like the 43rd time I pulled the carbs off I found
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRtFVhV6/20221024_120905_resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrWxPmc8)
The hose that connects the enrichener circuit between the carburetors had a split in it. Every thing on the bike works except the tach and one instrument bulb. A previous owner apparently tried to drive the tach drive into the worm gear and bent the shaft. I will be running an electronic multifunctional after market cluster anyway so I will just cap off the tach drive hole. Frank B came over the other day and we shimmed the oil pump as it had 0 Gap up on the cam so we took a shim out of a parts pump and it is oiling a bit too much now whereas before there was no movement on the pump at idle and no smoke. Better a bit too much than not enough until I  get time to try a thinner shim and/or order some from Economy Cycle. It lives and supposedly has a fresh top end installed. It needs the usual stuff from setting. Brake calipers cleaned, new pads, fork seals and some Progressive Springs. The tank is full of scale and varnish so it has to get a dose of Cawell. All fluids changed and a set of new Avons. I also cannibalized the clutch cable off of it at the Gap when mine broke on the white RZ. Thanks to M in SC for the guidance and Frank B for the help. Much, much more to follow...

Man, that first startup was fun to watch. Dude never knew what hit him.  :clap:

Good luck getting it running how you want it.

Thanks !!!
I am working on it here and there as I have a lot going on. I sent the paperwork off to the VT DMV last Friday so hopefully in 4-6 weeks I will have VT registration and tag. I am compling my parts list for an order from Economy Cycle as well. I also had a coolant leak I couldn't find and I figured out it was a hose on top of the head seeping. I got rid of the constant pressure  clamp and installed a conventional worm gear hose clamp snd that fixed it.

sweet. good work there, that thing should be a hoot  :vroom: :toot:

Happy to see you bringing this RZ back, Tim!

That's great Tim! Nice to see another one back on the road.

Mark

Been waiting for this since the video! Sweet!

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYwMqNCb/20230113-154816.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJ8vh9SZ)

Roll around build table dragged out of the corner and cleaned up. New parts organized and inventoried. Waiting on tires and a trailtech mount for my after market temperature gauge. 111 days until Deals Gap. I gotta get rolling.

LOOKS GOOD TIM. AT LEAST OYU DONT HAVE TO DO A TOPEND OR FRAME REPAIR.. PLENTY OF TIME.  :cheerleader: DONT MAKE ME DRIVE UP THERE!   :whistle:

Quote from: m in sc on January 17, 2023, 11:40:41 AM
LOOKS GOOD TIM. AT LEAST OYU DONT HAVE TO DO A TOPEND OR FRAME REPAIR.. PLENTY OF TIME.  :cheerleader: DONT MAKE ME DRIVE UP THERE!   :whistle:

ROAD TRIP!

 :stupid-1:

:cheerleader:

I won't Mark! :righteous: :righteous:

1st progress in a while been busy on the farm trying to get rid of another dumpster load of scrap to augment my play money for the Gap.
Yesterday's project was the removal of the clutch cover and subsequent  R&R of the clutch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PJZGm4J0/20230128_140254.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xN0FQLKP)
Pretty much what I expected after I found the bent and stuck tach driveshaft. One half of the tach drive gear was lodged up near the shaft and the other half was lodged behind the shift shaft. A tooth and the drive pin were laying in the bottom of the clutch cover. I removed the retainer clip and washer from the shaft as well. I did a thorough inspection with particular attention to.the right hand crank seal and no damage was noted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/44YYdJrj/20230128-160039.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CdVhrVM4)
My new Yambits clutch cable is a perfect fit.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XNtpBRWq/20230128-160046.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9JcZSHn) 
Clutch adjusted and free play set.

(https://i.postimg.cc/K4XSc7dc/20230128_160017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Qmknz4D)   
And I digress, worn clutch removed. Rubber dampers discarded. New Driveline Performance FZR 1000 friction plates (soaked overnight in Lucas 80/90) and steels installed along with thier 10% stronger than factory springs. Pull feels good comparable to the white RZ with a similar setup.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qqxS0fXw/20230128-160555.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LghNBbWg)
Evil clubmans be gone   :vroom:
Yambits factory RZ bars installed. I had to spray some PB Blaster around the attach screws for both switches as apparently along the way this bike spent some time outside in Canada. I had to resort to my Economy Cycle JIS bits and a 1/4 inch drive ratchet to get the switches attach screws off without buggering them up. The front master cylinder is now in the scrap dumpster minus the brake lever along with the clubman. I haId to get the 1/2 inch drive impact out to loosen the banjo bolt. Luckily I had the master cylinder off of the white RZ ready to bolt on. I was able to get the left hand grip swapped over as well courtesy of a thin screwdriver and some brake kleen. I was also able to salvage the front brake light switch with some PB Blaster and careful prying to separate it from the crusty original master cylinder. If time permits I will be getting a set of caliper adapters from NK Racing in the UK so I can put a set of Evans Ward's refurbed blue dots on and I already have an R1 master cylinder ready to bolt on. In the interim I have all the parts to do the refurb on the factory brake systems front and rear.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rFq7jmMP/20230128-160600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bQBYqC3)
Since I have never done a water pump rebuild Frank B has volunteered his services in that department sometime when we can get together in the next couple weeks. I have plenty to do to keep me busy in the meantime. Next on the list is intake rubber replacement followed by front and rear brakes. Then on to radiator fan install. And much more to follow...

(https://i.postimg.cc/4339QpSx/20230125-114920.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nX6rH9xy)
After months of futile searches and a canceled order for a set of Avon Road Riders MK II, I found a set of Bridgestone BT 46s from powersportunlimited.com Ordered on Sunday and in my grubby paws 2 days later via FedEx.

Good progress Tim! That Yambits clutch cable looks to fit very nicely! Coming along good..  :thumbs:

Excellent progress Tim! Your plan is coming together nicely. I like the BT46 tires.

looking good. woop.  :celebrate:

Nice work Tim. I am glad to hear your Yambits clutch cable worked. It appears that you have your adjustment screw at your lever screwed all the way in to get free play. I was unable to get any free play due to this

(https://i.imgur.com/0VQoDET.jpg)

Hey Ken
I barely got it. If not for the removal of the rubber dampers that makes the clutch pack width narrower I don't think it would have made it. I rechecked the adjustment this morning and followed the service manual exactly pushing the clutch arm inwards ( the book says forward) while turning in the adjuster screw and carefully aligning the pointer with the adjuster at the bars turned all the way in. With tension off after that, the screw on the adjuster is just touching against resistance. I hate the design and it is ridiculous having to pull off the cover and all the associated shit that entails, drain the oil and water for a damn clutch free play adjustment. Since there is little to no pressure in the case if I was smart enough I would take a small hole saw to the inner clutch cover and put a rubber grommet in the hole so you wouldn't have to take all that shit apart. I think it would work. But I don't trust myself to get the hole in the right place. Any volunteers? Do you all think that would work?  :umm:

weld an aluminum bung on it, like an oil filler cap or weld in aluminum bung for a fuel cap. or just go hydraulic. lol. oce you get it set you'll be fine, i didnt adjust mine for 7 years.

Does it sound like I did it right? I read a different method on the Rd Lc Crazy forum. One of thier guys recommended run it in until it stops and back off 1/4 turn but that isn't what the manual says?

that'll work. i typically run them 1/2 out but thats just me.

Did you happen to check the Yambits cable against your stock cable? Obviously that's where my photo came from. The inner cable length was identical it was just where they located that lug on the cable jacket. The outer cable jacket is too long.

Have you ever thought about doing this?

https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rz-350/engine-related-yamaha-rz-350/clutch-yamaha-rz-350/rz350-clear-clutch-cover-kit-anodized-in-silver-or-black/ (https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rz-350/engine-related-yamaha-rz-350/clutch-yamaha-rz-350/rz350-clear-clutch-cover-kit-anodized-in-silver-or-black/)

(https://i.imgur.com/lmdPLaS.jpg)

Hey Ken,
The only stock cable I have is on the white RZ. It actually came from the gray one when the cable on the white RZ broke at Deals Gap last year 20 miles from the resort. We bump started the white bike and it made for an interesting ride back but we managed to make it without having to stop somehow...
I considered going that windowed clutch cover route but have talked myself out of it at least for the moment.

Today was brake day. Had to break out the impact to get the rear caliper bolts out. Pistons came out pretty easy and a trailer license plate bracket served to block the holes so I could get the 2nd piston out.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rFbpPwNq/20230204_142330.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZC8Z9ZQQ)

Cleaned up and ready for reassembly. I also bead blasted the inside of the pistons. I had to get out the PB Blaster and my heat gun to get the bleeder loose as it was badly corroded. It took 30 minutes of heating and spraying it while hot. I cleaned it up good with my wire wheel and put a little anti seize on it. I used a Dremel with a flat stainless steel brush on the grooves the sealing rubbers fit into and lightly cleaned the rubbers with brake kleen. I used crocus cloth on the pistons and found them to be in surprisingly good shape.

(https://i.postimg.cc/hGRtKZYw/20230204_152410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv8H3RMf)

Pistons were coated liberally with DOT5 and reinstalled. They were more hateful than I remember to get started straight but they went in. Rear caliper halves ready for reassembly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNKzRFqJ/20230204_161033.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzsTh7BT)

Bagged up and shelved until I get the wheels off and new tires installed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4W9vtgz/20230204_161446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87k8jvMF)

Rear master cylinder flushed and ready for caliper installation.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W33LVMsC/20230204_163327.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1pSLxgt)

Right front caliper disassembled. I will be ordering R1 caliper adapters from NK Racing in the UK this week so I will not likely be using the factory front calipers at all but I will be rebuilding them, bagging them up and adding them to my hoard. I have new pads for all three brakes from Economy Cycle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bbrd2k2f/20230204_163333.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3TQHffL)

Looking good Tim. DOT 5  :thumbs:  I am anxious to see how your R1 brake setup works out. I am considering doing this conversion to my current project bike.

Glad to hear your pistons came out without a fight.

Here is a trick I learned for when those pistons don't want to come out.

Thanks Ken. I did the R1 conversion on my white RZ and the difference in braking is phenomenal. 2 fingers from 100 MPH. I use bar end mirrors on all my bikes and that makes it easy to install an R1 master cylinder as well. I was also able to use the RZ steel braided brake lines. I hope to get the adapters on the way this week.

yeah, its pretty incredible. when i had my rz i also went with bigger rotors and it was pretty ridiculous. but, awesome. think they were 1st gen vmax.

I just placed the order with NK Racing in the UK for a set of his adapters for use with standard discs. Waiting for response with exact price and shipping/arrival dates.

I like your method of piston removal Ken. I always get down on the floor on a piece of carpet or rubber mat and keep my hands clear to keep my fingers intact and to protect the piston.

I may need to try Ken's method one of these times I'm having issues. My normal procedure is: caliper off the bike, pads removed, and then I have a small piece of wood I drop into the caliper (that acts as a stopper for the piston) and hit it with compressed air.

Enjoying the progress you're making Tim. But I'm actually more envious of all the shop space you have! That's something I wish I had!

Thanks
Yeah it is a huge building Daddy had put up in 1976 for maintaining his lime and fertilizer trucks and the farm equipment. It is 50x96 at ground level. About 1/2  of it's usable and I am slowly getting it cleaned out as time permits. Daddy didn't throw anything away but he did throw a lot of shit into piles after there was no more wall space to hang it from. Most of the stuff is left over spares from trucks and equipment that is long gone and stuff that was worn out or broken that he thought he might need a piece off of to fix something else. And a lot of it is ruined because there are pin holes in the roof along the edges to about 6 feet from the outer edges in various  places. The shop needs a new roof.

I got notification from NK Racing that my adapters have to be made as he didn't have any in stock. 10-14 days to manufacture and 4 days after that to get them here. So I took my factory RZ master cylinder off and dug out my spare R1 master cylinder
(https://i.postimg.cc/65j69YZh/20230206-105751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLCc6R47)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJb42hMn/20230206-105818.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94J60LFk)

I removed the factory brake light harness and scrounged through my spare Yamaha wires and made up a new harness rather than cut the end off of the factory brake light harness.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4nLRd3R/20230206-120909.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLRS09qd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYss1BTq/20230206-110727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mPF3tkZW)

The brown wire is correct but I didnt have a green with a white stripe so I went with a blue with a white stripe and made note of it in my service manual. All that's left is to put two terminal ends on to push on to the R1 switch and a little heat shrink and Bob's your Uncle on the front master cylinder and brake light. I ordered two of Evans Ward's finest refurbished Blue Dot calipers Thanks Brother Evans :patriot: :patriot: and they will be here soon.

I found out today why the throttle was slow to return while I was installing the R1 master cylinder. The throttle tube has a big ragged chunk missing out of it and the grip rubber is dragging on the handlebar. I went on Yambits and ordered the correct single cable 29L replacement for non USA bikes and it is on the way.

(https://i.postimg.cc/zXKWqtSg/20230209_122707.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtZhwSnL)
I like big brakes and I cannot lie :olaf: :olaf: Courtesy of Evans Ward. Beautiful work as always.

(https://i.postimg.cc/t4b6J32m/20230209_122625.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7WMbmKh)

Then I wrestled the new upper steel braided brake line into submission. Thank you John at Economy Cycle !

(https://i.postimg.cc/rw9rrDHy/20230209_122641.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yvh0cCkT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1z5Nc9xG/20230209_123314.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdC3sc1z)

A new throttle tube arrived in 3 days from Merry Old England thanks to Yambits  :righteous: :righteous:

I broke my RZ throttle tube in a similar fashion when I wrecked the bike in 1990-ish. I was young, dumb and poor, so I sanded the inside of the tube and grip and kept it lubed with a little Vaseline for years. One day, my brain finally developed and I wondered WTF was I doing?? Broke down and spent the $8 or whatever for a new tube (and grips), and put the Vaseline away. :busey:

Frank B came over yesterday and we spent 4 hours wrenching and got quite a bit accomplished. You are the best Frank :patriot: :patriot:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wWfTm6y/20230211_121855.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKSD7kmF)
The water pump rebuild went well. I cleaned up parts and hardware. Frank did the disassembly and reassembly. The water pump screws were rusty. I took the wire wheel on the bench grinder to them and we put just a touch of anti-seize on them going back together. The bearings felt fine but we changed them as they are part of the kit, along with the seal and a new gasket. The impeller shaft had a little wear dimple on it and I dressed it with a piece of crocus cloth. We changed the kicker seal as well and replaced the coolant pipe o-ring and snap ring too. A close inspection of all the threaded holes in the side cover revealed that all but two had heli-coils in them from some previous hamfistedness. :bang: I discovered this the hard way when I attempted to run a tap in a hole right above the kicker that had a buggered up screw end on it when it came out. Of course the tap brought the heli-coil out with it. Luckily I have a 6MM 1.0 heli-coil kit on hand and in a few minutes Frank made it right as rain. We had to scrounge through my spare Allen head bolts after we found more than 1 of the previously installed clutch cover bolts were only hanging on by a thread or two. We shortened some longer bolts out of my hardware pile and the clutch cover went on without further incident.

(https://i.postimg.cc/W4KWbtL5/20230211_134738.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FRBZpCv)
Next we decided to attack the grinding power valve servo motor, which worked but sounded horrific. 1st we tried to take it apart to clean and re-grease per M in SC but the torx head in the shaft screw that we need out to get the pulley off to access the guts was frozen solid even after liberal doses of PB Blaster and cussing, it was no Bueno. We then installed my eBay spare and rigged the cables and another problem was solved.  :olaf: :olaf:
The power valves open and close and no more grinding was noted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJjXnGRj/VideoCapture_20230212-115905.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6rVY5gx)

Frank B departed and I still had a little play time left so I devoted that to a rather strange electrical issue. I hate electrical gremlins. The taillights at 1st glance appeared to work correctly. But... squeeze the brake lever or step on the rear brake, the LH taillight would go out and no brake light on that side either. I changed bulbs, swapped bulbs no good. I got my test light out and probed the wires and bulb contacts and it all worked. Then I put the probe on the socket itself which is supposed to be ground and the test light illuminated. I pushed both hot wires up out of the socket and inspected them. No damage was apparent. I called M in SC and we pretty much came to the conclusion that the LH socket was bad. Play time was over so I had to spend the remainder of the evening with the Bridal Unit. I looked for a replacement taillight harness on line to no avail except for one that came with a used taillight assembly on eBay with a cracked lens that a guy wanted $50 for plus shipping. M in SC said TZR 250 is the same and Yambits has a TZR 250 harness that shows it supercedes the RZ part number that is NLA. M in SC also told me that a lot of Japanese stuff uses similar all plastic sockets during our conversation so that got me to thinking. This morning after chores I went to my 01 Subaru Outback parts car armed with a pair of cutting pliers and lo and behold a three wire plastic socket :celebrate:. It looked exactly the same but wouldn't lock in to the taillight lens. A closer inspection revealed the locking ears were ever so slightly thicker than the Yamaha socket. About two minutes of careful trimming and it fit perfectly. The locking ear location and orientation are identical. It is the gray one in the picture and the ears had not yet been trimmed and the wires were just twisted together for testing. I wired it up and installed some heat shrink and it works like a champ. Thanks again Frank B and M in SC :patriot: :patriot:

Great job fixing the little stuff Tim! As these bike get older we end up using whatever is at hand to replace broken or missing parts. I can't tell you how many allen bolts I've made out my stock of long bolts purchased in bulk.

Mark

Thanks Mark! It is coming along. I still have a lot to do. Next I will clean up the chamber spigots and install them with new gaskets then mount my R6 cooling fan and wire it up, the new hoses and radiator back on. Then replace the intakes and on from there to the forks and finally the gas tank clean out and Caswell sealing and tires installation. I try to do a little something every day and spend one day of my weekend every week as time permits. The goal is to have it ready for the Gap.

I see you have a case of the previous owner blues. Amazing the stuff we find on our little treasures.

Moving along nicely Tim. :thumbs:

Looking good.  :clap:

when you guys doing the gauge install? 

:popcorn2:

A few more weeks.

I got shipping confirmation and a tracking number yesterday from NK Racing for my R1 caliper brackets. They will be here in a few days.

(https://i.postimg.cc/3JtrG8bX/20230215-123517.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fTy8k4h)

3 days from the UK to VA. They fit perfectly.

Nice parts. You're making progress.

Nice caliper adapter parts there Tim. What was the $$$ to your doorstep?

$202.46 with today's exchange rate.

Today's 15 minutes of fun time while my tractor was warming up to feed the cows:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fWR199L/20230216_121745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKzjj5pX)
Apparently the previous owner lost or discarded the hardware that keeps the headlight bucket from flopping and rotating. So I went through my KAW Triple turn signal parts pile and found a set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bv3G5vHp/20230216_121740.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p95XhR66)
Two minutes of shaping with my trusty bench grinder to match the rubber. Basically I ground off one of the nubs and it fits perfectly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZNS2YMN/20230216_122418.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hz9DsMg8)
Fixed.

Never ending fun stuff, eh? That tire you have the part resting on in the photo is going to try to kill you.  :eek: Looks like hard plastic.

Yep. That bike sat for a long time. That tire is saturated with oil from the leaking fork seals as well. I have new BT46s to go on it. It will never be ridden with the old tires...

(https://i.postimg.cc/MTMq7Fgw/20230222-122404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0kBcQ8Z)
Normal life has interfered with progress this week. I did manage to get the chamber flanges cleaned, bead blasted and painted. My 19 year old bead blasting machine stopped working while I was bead blasting the springs so I need to investigate what is wrong with it at some point. I called the company and described the symptoms and they said it is likely a worn out orifice inside the gun. Please excuse the dirt on the shop floor. It is quite muddy and my Kubota spends the winter inside so it will start.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9ft6LX0c/20230225-123819.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Cht6kSR)
I am quite pleased with the Yambits exhaust gaskets. I put some high temp RTV on the crush washer that goes in the exhaust port to hold it in place and a l put a light coat on both sides of the flanges gasket.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Kz0dy9tV/20230225-154256.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZByf8x7F)
Painted and installed.

On to the intakes:
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJ78Rh5g/20230225-163845.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0QKD02y)
I know it isn't required but I use 2 gaskets on the intakes and I use Permatex anaerobic gasket sealer ( thanks to M in SC for the heads up on the sealant) :patriot: Gaskets just like good oil are cheap and motors are expensive. Intake leaks will kill a motor.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yYg2wyxQ/20230225-164702.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVNdhWnK)
I added stainless lock washers to the stock bolts after a good clean up and chased all the threads in the holes.

On to carburetors
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBYpkRxf/20230225-154140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJGQ3bP8)
After another consultation with M in SC I decided to use the original VM28s off of my 75 RD350 in lieu of the factory 26s. I made good use of my new Vevor ultrasonic machine with a 50/50 mix of Berrymans carb cleaner and WD 40 in my big jar with the carb bodies (and all the brass in a mesh basket) Props again to M in SC for giving me the witch's brew ingredients. I recommend to anybody that cleans carbs or old bike parts to buy an ultrasonic. It makes a horrible job that I always dread easy. Not to mention it minimizes exposure to all kinds of toxins that none of us need to get on our skin. To that point, I had to buy a new gallon of Berrymans before this job as my old can was eaten through from the inside and the solvent leaked out and evaporated.

(https://i.postimg.cc/528Tt9w8/20230225_170843.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1vJq2pY)
The 28 fits right in to the factory 26MM intake rubber.

(https://i.postimg.cc/fy3gQMzt/20230225_154757.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctScQy80)
My NOS 98 R1 black brake lever ( eBay $24.97 shipped) Now the levers match. All in all a productive 5 hour escape from life's stresses in the shop. One step closer. Next on the agenda is mounting and wiring the R6 cooling fan. Then the radiator can go back on.

Looking good Tim.

getting there.   :vroom: :toot:

willa  y boot fit in there? if so shoot me a text.

(https://i.postimg.cc/bJPNN0m8/20230227-123542.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06tqVSgH)
It can't ever be easy. Apparently the height of the 28 MM RD carburetors is different enough to be an issue. With the adjuster screwed all the way in the cable is short. I have different adjuster and cap parts coming to overcome this courtesy of M in SC.

If it was easy, Tim, anybody could do it  :thumbs:

Yup., looking at thet, the tops i sent should be about 10-12mm shorter at the adjuster tube. should so the trick.  :humpty:

 :patriot: :patriot:
I agree. Waiting for the big brown goody truck  :righteous: :righteous:

Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 01, 2023, 10:05:51 AM
Waiting for the big brown goody truck

:ups:

Those carb bodies cleaned up really well! They look great  :clap:

Thanks! I am so glad I got that ultrasonic cleaner. It really does do a nice job.

Excellent progress Tim. I'm looking forward to seeing it at the Gap.

Thanks. The goal is to have it ready for the trip. Slowly but surely.

(https://i.postimg.cc/2yDDcGLM/20230303-132141.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJBHmqgP)
Haase modified cable adjusters. A perfect fit :righteous: :righteous:

(https://i.postimg.cc/KzSTfKxj/20230303-140225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7C9bYZCr)
28s mocked up. The new cable adjusters are perfect. Slides open and close full travel. Thanks again M in SC :patriot:

Sweet! :olaf:

(https://i.postimg.cc/d3H4YhXv/20230307-123433.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5brj3fH)
R6 cooling fan mock up in progress. Not too bad a job. Just takes time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MK6CJRck/20230307_123600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDKqW4LX)
I use one Adel clamp and a frame tab on the other side adjacent to the coolant recovery tank. Still fiddling with the brackets. Ran out of play time and had to get ready for work. I also took the throttle tube and housing back off for lubrication. I sprayed the inside of the throttle tube with silicone spray and gave the cables a good dose of Dri-Slide. All in all a very productive morning.  60 days till Deals Gap!! :metal:

piece by piece  :clap:

(https://i.postimg.cc/7hkJVRvj/20230308-124721.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9d0Gpjx)p

Today I spent my play time after chores fitting the fan some more using the white RZ as a guide for placement. It is like trying to get 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound sack. I thought I had it perfect and tightened everything down. Then I  couldn't get the radiator on because the fan was too high :umm:
Apparently my calibrated eyeballs are a bit off. So I took it back loose and bent the brackets to the new position. As depicted it fits but is too far away from the back of the radiator. Playtime was over.  Tomorrow after chores I will get it right and lock it down. It is all part of the process. All in all another good 1.5 hours of shop time. If memory serves the white RZ took about 1/2 a day to do this job not including wiring so I  am ahead of the power curve.

R1 fan mounting complete.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydcgZkXy/20230309-115749.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dkQVMQfh)
It is mounted just like the one on the white bike now. I got it done in an hour this morning after chores.

(https://i.postimg.cc/GtRBJdXw/20230309-115758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLkYTM8C)
The third mount bracket will be safety wired to the bolt in the Adel clamp to prevent any uncommanded rocking.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rs9Df3Hd/20230309-115812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Q6907b1)
The top mount. Drilled a 6MM hole in an unused frame tab adjacent to the coolant recovery tank.

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNq7LVbB/20230315-122920.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7Sxp3Tk)
Fan install finished except for wiring. I hooked it up to the battery and it runs well and draws air.

(https://i.postimg.cc/CLNCcDFz/20230315-122926.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXj16jP0)
Fan clears everything and is mounted solid. Switch is also installed. I will wire it up Saturday after chores.

(https://i.postimg.cc/K8pP223b/20230315-122930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21vbQgx9)
Installed the rest of my new radiator hoses and new stainless steel clamps courtesy of John at Economy Cycle.  :patriot: :patriot:
Ready for coolant and transmission oil.

(https://i.postimg.cc/jqy4Jmm6/20230315-122937.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1Dhk6V1)
The top hose proved to be particularly hateful.  :umm:
Then I took the filler neck loose and was able to get it installed.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qvvsSRRQ/20230315-123608.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7nRs9Ds)
Yboot mocked up. Plenty of room. Thanks again M in SC :patriot: :patriot:

It's great seeing another RZ being returned to the road, I have owned two, one  I bought new in 1984 the other was only 1 year old . Sure do miss them.  Great progress

Thanks. Slowly but surely.

https://youtu.be/FlpHy_EEB7A
Made some progress today. Installed the eBay Norxi temperature gauge and did an ops.check. it comes with a 10MM 1.0 temperature sensor. I put some Teflon tape on the threads and it went right in. Unlike a lot of the small aftermarket gauges I looked at there is no internal battery. It is wired to switched 12 volt and chassis ground. I wired it up temporarily for testing. It comes with double sided tape for mounting. I had bought a Trail Tech mount for it but after looking at it I decided to mount the it straight to the handlebar. More to follow tomorrow.
(https://i.postimg.cc/L4YXm17W/20230318-150702.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6TKw0yBV)

https://youtu.be/21O1472QlWU
I also finished up the wiring for the R1 cooling fan. Positive lead to the battery and picked up the ground on one of the power valve motor mounts. All connections are heat shrinked.

(https://i.postimg.cc/C1w1FP3H/20230318-144932.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJ3gsrPf)
Wiring for the fan. Two push on connectors with heat shrink.

(https://i.postimg.cc/3rswNwQx/20230318-171856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kDyChq50)
Relocated the aftermarket turn signals from the forks to the birdcage near where the previous owner cut the factory turn signal mounts off. The fairing won't go on with them there and you can't see them behind the fairing where they were mounted. This is likely temporary for initial road testing as I won't be running the fairing at least at first. The LH horn is droopy because I had to take it loose to remove the Adel clamp that was used to hold the turn signal to the forks.

(https://i.postimg.cc/YSDrHrxk/20230318-171849.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDrLmPKf)
Synced the 28s and adjusted the throttle cable free play. Installed the clamps except for the ones on the crossover. Next on the list is oil lines. Initial jetting is 260 mains, 35 pilots stock needles set in the middle and airscrews set to 1.5 turns out.

Today I filled the radiator with coolant. Had one hose clamp a bit loose near the water pump on the bottom and a few drops escaped before I caught it. 24 hour leak check has commenced. I took the plugs out and kicked it over a bunch of times, got a couple bubbles at the filler neck. Tomorrow if all is well I will put 1.5 quarts of Lucas 80/90 in the transmission.

Time was very limited today. But I am pleased to report no coolant leakage was noted. The radiator is still full up to the neck and nothing ran out of the transmission when I took out the drain plug. I plan to service the transmission and whatever else I can fit in tomorrow before work.

Another time limited day today. Normal life intrudes. At any rate. I did manage to connect the new Yambits oil feed line complete with factory clamps from the new to me eBay oil tank to the pump. I started fitting the oil line from the pump to the LH carb when I had to stop and get ready for work. With any luck I will fire it up on Saturday to do a quick leak check on the work done so far and then on to the fork refurb and Progressive Springs install.

https://youtu.be/-V3XEokpGs8
Good progress today :olaf: :olaf:

 :olaf: :metal: :olaf: :metal: :olaf: :metal: :olaf: :metal: :clap: :clap: :clap:

 Installed new Yambits oil feed line with factory clamps from tank to pump and pump to carburetors. Temporarily installed expansion chambers and hooked up my auxiliary fuel tank so I could run it up and check for leaks. No fluid leaks noted. Synced the carburetors and aside from one float hanging up on initial fill all went well started on 2nd kick. Initial start had an air leak and realized I didn't have clamps on the crossover. Corrected that and it had a little lag just off idle. Turned airscrews in to 1 and 1/4 and it revs clean on the stand no load. Then I pulled off the wheels and forks for tire replacement and fork refurbishment, new seals and Progressive Suspension springs. All inall.a very good shop day.

Great progress Tim. The engine sounds good.

You going to do emulators on the forks? I did one or two or three videos on the process.

Hey Ken, Thanks yes the motor is good and tight. I think the 28s are gonna do well on it. No not going to do emulators at least not right now. I am running out of time. I have 2 more bikes to get ready plus new fenders to install on my bike trailer so it will be down to the wire for Gap Prep given the time I have to devote to it. I still have quite a bit to do this one too.

Sure wish I was close enough to you Tim to give you a helping hand.. If you don't have enough time to prep all bikes you are bringing, bring it on to the Gap and we'll finish it there.  :vroom: :righteous:

Thanks Evans , I wish you were closer too. I will get it done.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qMmVjBQc/20230325_165057.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jr0CS2s)


Wheels and forks off. Hopefully I will get the wheels to the local bike shop this week to get the tires changed.

(https://i.postimg.cc/g2Q9bMCn/20230325_165156.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxVtvKkW)

Gave the swingarm area a much needed scrubbing.

(https://i.postimg.cc/fywpf19g/20230325_163233.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZMBXSDh)

The chain and rear sprocket didn't look too bad. But the front sprocket is hooked badly. I have a new chain and sprocket set from Economy Cycle that will get installed.

(https://i.postimg.cc/WzfKPvSF/20230326-123627.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfVtygCq)

RH  fork nearly disassembled. It fought me all the way thus far. Usually I can take the snap ring out and put air into the valve and the seal will pop right out. No such luck today. I aired it up and soaked it with PB Blaster and heated it up with my heat gun to no avail. Then I got the damper rod bolt out and got the seal to move using the internal fork bushing that is bigger than the seal like a slide hammer and got it to move but it didn't come all the way out before the tube came out of the fork lower. I will use my seal puller tomorrow to coax it the rest of the way out. I did have presence of mind enough to get the fork cap loose before pulling it out of the triple trees unlike the previous owner or one of his minions who put the inner tube in a vise and buggered it all up.  :bang: :bang: Thank goodness it was right next to the lower triple tree far enough up the tube that it will never contact the seal.( Not visible in this picture, apparently I turned that part down when I laid it on the table)

(https://i.postimg.cc/HxyP5pc4/20230327-121753.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFsncc7h)
20 minutes with the heat gun, my seal puller and a folded shop rag and the old fork seal came out. I took the dremel with a steel brush to the seal area and snap ring groove and got it cleaned up. Then I got the fork lower scrubbed up and took the wire wheel to the retainer snap ring and finished it with a good bath in the parts washer for the fork lower and inner tube. Ready for reassembly, new seal and Progressive Suspension spring. I will put this one together before I disassemble the other one.

(https://i.postimg.cc/3Rp35mSQ/20230329-122736.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9g3R9vd)
RH fork reassembly was straightforward and uneventful thus far. The Progressive Suspension spring is identical in length to the I assume stock spring I pulled out. The seal went sbout 1/2 way by hand and the seal driver did the rest. The instructions say no PVC spacer is required even though they include the PVC and a big flat washer. I can't recall if I used any spacers on my white RZ and again didn't keep good notes. The plan for tomorrow after chores and before work is to add fork oil and finish the RH side up then begin on the LH side.

(https://i.postimg.cc/nc9G8zZY/20230329-122850.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvxQVznv)
Ready for 8.5 Ozs of Lucas semi- synthetic 10W fork oil $10 a pint at O'REILLY auto parts.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Vk57sbpJ/20230330-115833.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXW8phSn)
I serviced the RH fork and installed it. No leaks so far :metal: Then I got out the brake kleen and a Scotch-Brite pad and got the hideous Showa sticker and the last remnants of the yellowed clear coat off. Next I hit it with blue magic metal polish. It is far from done but looks way better. I had to stop so I could get the wheels, tubes and BT46s to the local bike shop. I pick them up Saturday...

(https://i.postimg.cc/fbh8XnLS/20230401-142552.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mnd02L1z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgSDc1kW/20230401-163847.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVSx6gkg)
Forks done. Fender on. Economy Cycle fork brace installed. It is a work of art. .Brake lines from Economy Cycle on. Perfect fit. Caliper adapters by NK racing installed. Perfect fit. R1Calipers refurbed by Evans Ward installed. Beautiful work. Thanks Brother Evans!!

(https://i.postimg.cc/GtYQ9XCx/20230401-165709.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N2sTz7LK)
Front wheel with new BT46 installed. Mounted and balanced by Guard Hill Cycle. Thanks Kenny and Andy!
I had to drag out the MityVac for the 1st time in years due because no amount of pumping was getting fluid to the calipers. Once I put 20PSI of vacuum on the bleeder I got pressure at the lever almost immediately. Had a couple seeps at the various banjos because I am always afraid of putting too much torque on them. 12 hour leak check complete. No leaks noted :righteous: :righteous:

(https://i.postimg.cc/7Y89jr3s/20230402-124315.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7kFVfmW)
This morning before work I fought the rear wheel with new BT46 and new Economy Cycle rear sprocket into place. Rear wheels on RZs are hateful to do. But it is done. On to removing and replacing the counter-shaft sprocket and then the chain. All in all a good shop weekend.

Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on March 29, 2023, 04:55:23 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/nc9G8zZY/20230329-122850.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvxQVznv)
Ready for 8.5 Ozs of Lucas semi- synthetic 10W fork oil $10 a pint at O'REILLY auto parts.

I had no idea O'Reilly's carried fork oil.  Good tip! 

I discovered it by accident trying to avoid the 40 mile round trip to the closest dealership in Winchester, VA. I was doing an on line query for fork oil near me. The OReilly's is 4 miles from the house. My local independent shop orders almost everything by the job and has almost no inventory.

(https://i.postimg.cc/KzZNPfvD/20230403-105830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZQkYj8R)
This is as far as I got today. I had to stop to deliver two wagon loads of hay I sold to the local livestock market. Bent the tab lock washer back, dug out an impact socket and installed my 70s vintage Kawasaki factory counter-shaft sprocket tool that I got NOS from Rick Brett in the UK back in 2004...

(https://i.postimg.cc/x12jttqW/20230404-124037.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtmGr3Yw)
New chain, sprockets and tab washer installed from Economy Cycle. Thanks John!

(https://i.postimg.cc/bw9yMktd/20230404-124046.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2DPRVwd)
Refurbished rear brake caliper installed with fresh new pads from John at Economy Cycle. Filled reservoir and began the bleeding process. Tomorrow I will drag out the MityVac.

Pivot the rear caliper up to where the pads are just gripping the disc when you bleed it, otherwise that last bubble of air is tough to get out. It's actually an old Yamaha TSB.  :twocents:

Thanks  :patriot: :patriot:

Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on April 03, 2023, 03:34:48 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzZNPfvD/20230403-105830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZQkYj8R)
This is as far as I got today. I had to stop to deliver two wagon loads of hay I sold to the local livestock market. Bent the tab lock washer back, dug out an impact socket and installed my 70s vintage Kawasaki factory counter-shaft sprocket tool that I got NOS from Rick Brett in the UK back in 2004...

Did not know that a tool like that actually existed.

Yeah it comes in real handy.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yxgBP6tT/20230405-123442.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vxsp8yQ1)
Today I bled the rear caliper. Hooked up the MityVac and had pedal in about a minute.   :olaf: Then I took the battery out and drilled a small hole near the front outboard corner of the battery box through a frame tab and installed a bolt and nut with lock washer. Then I put a couple of pieces of hose in between the battery and the box to stop any movement. Used a cable tie to secure it temporarily untilI can get a proper battery strap from Yambits.

there you go, good deal!

Im bringing my wiring kit w me to the gap, i cant deal with that negative battery eyelet   :dawg:  :lol:

Sweet :patriot: :patriot:

Time was limited today. I cleaned up some of the tools strung everywhere and  then put 1/2 gallon of premix in the gas tank and sloshed it around. No leaks noted so far. This break I will fill the tank with Evapo-Rust and leave it for a couple days, then hit it with Caswell. Next on the list after that is figuring out the mounting for the Daytona Velona.

(https://i.postimg.cc/8cX43B3g/20230407-165056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wqr0qrT5)
Left side buttoned up. New polished stainless Allen bolt kit from Alloy Boltz in Fl.

https://alloyboltz.com/

(https://i.postimg.cc/C5pnKZqn/20230407-143919.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJ5wjw57)

Filled up the tank with 5 gallons of Evapo-Rust at full strength and it immediately went to work.

(https://i.postimg.cc/YCCGjBhR/20230407-164633.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvgKr40f)
I will give it a day or so to work and depending on how good a job it does makea decision to Caswell it or not.

(https://i.postimg.cc/2SyyrdKX/20230407-164416.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmNRBjxD)
On to the next thing. Fabricating a bracket for the Daytona Velona . Bonus points to anyone who can guess what I am using.
Hint: it is off of a Kaw Triple.

that should def work  :olaf:

I know! I know! But.. will refrain from answering since I own a H2.  :whistle: :wave:

Tim, I have done evaporust on a surface rusted tank with no leaks. No liner afterwards. It is still in use today. YMMV

The bracket looks like a license plate or tail light mount.

Thanks fellas. I hope to get back out there today. If not 1st thing tomorrow.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9FZKzzDP/20230408-173122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLqZFxQC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZhgW1pK/20230408_173100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7NBkZ6L)
I tried a couple variations and after consulting with M in SC and Frank B I settled on this one. The bracket is too thick for the supplied Allen head bolts so I used some longer fasteners and some grommets and washers from a spare RZ cluster. It was too cold to paint here today so that will have to wait for now.

Excellent progress Tim! There are a lot of jobs to be done to put a bike back on the road. It is never simple or easy. That's a nice re-use of that bracket! Evaporust works well. You just have to keep an eye on the tank after it is clean because it will rust again. Whatever the original protective coating was inside the tank is gone.
Hopefully it will be pretty much road ready when you get it down off the bench.
I'm looking forward to seeing it in a few weeks.

Mark

(https://i.postimg.cc/xC5YWGZt/20230409-123712.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47Yrccs9)
Today before work I dumped the 5 gallons of Evapo-Rust back into the bucket and found the rust gone but a red liner in place. The liner wasn't flaking off but obviously not optimum either. I rinsed the tank with water per the instructions and then poured in a quart of denatured alcohol. The petcock screws were frozen but with help of my heat gun and Economy Cycle JIS impact screwdriver they released. I ran a tap on the holes and a die over the screws and all is well. Time was up so I put a cable tie on my air nozzle to hold it just barely open and wrapped a rag around it before sticking it in the fill hole with the petcock removed. After work tonight I will take the airline out and tomorrow morning I will Caswell the tank.

(https://i.postimg.cc/2SyyrdKX/20230407_164416.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmNRBjxD)
And the answer is: 1975 H1 Kawasaki front fender mount. Cut one side to fit and bent to shape. Bolt holes elongated as required. Bonus Points awarded to Evans Ward :patriot: :patriot:

(https://i.postimg.cc/W3fN6X6R/20230411-120440.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkBhm7HQ)
Today was Caswell day. It sucked and it's done. I managed to get it mixed up and poured in without messing up the paint. I put a gob of anti seize on the petcock screws and then after I took the petcock off I ran a tap with anti-seize on it through the holes again. I think I got a good job on it. No pin holes were noted. There was very little excess just like the white bike.

Nice. I have never lined a tank but have a couple here that need it. What does very little excess mean? After putting it in, rotating it, it cures and what you poured out is the "very little excess"?

Hope the red coat doesn't cause problems. I've heard that acetone will disolve it, just as it disolves Kreem.

I have found great drying of tanks after washing by connecting a vacuum cleaner to suck on the tank (in low humidity room). This lowers the pressure in the tank and lowers the vapor point of any moisture left, evaporating it off quickly. You can even tell where moisture was by feeling the tank be cool in that area, then warm up as the water leaves.

Had to line my RD400c tank after painting. Fun, isn't it?

Yes you roll the tank around in every direction to get the sealant equally distributed and then the instructions say to drain the excess. The size I bought is for " up to a 10 gallon tank" so there is some left over. I have never had much excess with Caswell. It is very sticky and coats very well. I had about 2 ounces come out. Yesterday it was around 70 in the shop at the low end of the recommended temperature range and it took 45 minutes for it to get tacky. Usually about 15 to 20 minutes is all the working time you get. I was an hour late for work because I couldn't just leave it. But it's done now. It's an easy process if you are having the tank repainted after but not so easy if you have to protect the paint. Time will tell but I am pretty confident I got it coated well. There was very little of the red liner in there after the Evapo-Rust treatment and I was afraid I would ruin the paint if I tried to strip it with acetone so fingers crossed they play well together.

Ive cleaned out two tanks now using electrolysis and a TSP solution. Its slow, but the TSP leaves a phosphate coating on the steel that prevents rust. I really do not want to go to coat any of my tanks.

Read something about Rustol from Sudco recently. You can dilute it with water, it removes rust and also leaves a phosphate coating to stop future rust. Anybody used this stuff?

COATING WITH CASWELL IS very, very different that the other stuff. Coating is fine, and the best part is it fills in voids that water can collect in. rzs have that lower pocket that loves to trap moisture, this elimiates that as a possibility of going later.

(https://i.postimg.cc/1tZLf2Lv/20230413-135911.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KB80L4c)
1st thing I did today was fix my bead blast machine. I thought I needed an orifice replacement but found out you can adjust the depth of the orifice which involves hooking up a vacuum gauge and adjusting until you get 15 PSI of vacuum. Good as new.

(https://i.postimg.cc/prW4B8V8/20230413-151522.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygGL1DZY)
Rustoleum's finest high heat semi-gloss.

(https://i.postimg.cc/m2rKzQ5W/20230413-153930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nrWjhGW)
RD400 petcock installed. If time permits I will do the mod to use the factory knob like I did on the white bike. It is useable as is. Put in 3 gallons of 90 non ethanol and a set of 280 main jets and ran it up. Had a seep at the temp sensor and a 1/4 turn tighter fixed that.

(https://i.postimg.cc/tT5m7Tdg/20230413-171332.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhNG5p5f)
Daytona Velona mounted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/D0wpGT5P/20230413-171349.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8Jxb8x27)
New tail light lens installed.

(https://i.postimg.cc/MKXrKznW/20230413-172448.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9Cm95y)
Daytona Velona speed sensor installed. The literature says it turns the mechanical signal into an electronic signal the instrument cluster can read.

(https://i.postimg.cc/BZzBpHv0/20230413-180616.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdQnNGbC)
Wiring cut off of original Canadian cluster and plugged back into the harness. Frank B is coming over to wire it up for me tomorrow. :taz:

https://youtube.com/shorts/-RNTUiZxiSY?feature=share

(https://i.postimg.cc/4y8pn8fY/20230414-165103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64v8mfGK)
Frank B came over this morning and we got after it. Frank performed his wiring magic and I love the Daytona. Thanks again Frank! He also rebuilt my floppy kickstart with a home made shim under the spring and ball.  :patriot: :patriot:
I hope to road test it tomorrow at some point. It is too rich on the pilot as it doesn't want to start with the enrichener selected on but fires right up with it off. Had a persistent seep at the temp sensor so I pulled it back out and replaced the Teflon tape and ran it again. No leaks noted. I will also need to calibrate the speedometer portion of the Daytona. A very good shop day!

I need to find me a "Frank B". Beautiful bike by the way!

Thank you. Yep Frank is the best. This bike sat for a long time and some of that was outside in Canada. It looks better in the digital photos than it does in person  but yes it is very nice. I really love the gray and black paint scheme. I am doing a mechanical only refurbishment for the most part. I didn't get to test ride today, ran out of time before work. I went to put the tag on and apparently Canadian tags are a bit narrower than US and it has a fabricated non-slotted license plate bracket and partially deleted rear fender so if all goes according to plan tomorrow I will drill a couple of new mount holes, mount the tag and take it out for the inaugural ride.

 :olaf:

this should be good. bring a small screwdriver to dial int he air screws on the ride. you're close for sure.

:thumbs: :gentleman:

Will do.

Put the tag on and then my cell phone mount on so I could attempt to calibrate the Daytona. Handles great. Front brake rotors are warped extremely bad. They have to get replaced before Deals Gap. Started on 1st kick with enrichener on. The 27.5 pilots are too lean. Pull off is bad. To verify I opened the air screws 1/4 turn and it got worse. From 1/8 throttle up is very good so far. I misread the instructions on the Daytona calibration so it has to be done again. It does indicate just not right. Completely self-induced. I tried to keep it under 8000 on the tach but initial feeling is that main jet is close. It revs a bit quicker than the white RZ. Time was limited before work. Clutch feels good. Dragging a little when hot. I will adjust the cable a bit. Shifts perfect. I accelerated hard once in 1st briefly and it picked the front wheel up about a foot. Temperature was in the low 170s the entire ride. The DGs must not have any packing at all as it is very very loud. Definitely good power and I am quite happy with the maiden voyage. A big thank you to everyone involved in the resurrection. Now for the tuning....

it seems like an awesome build. you've done a lot of work and it shows.

Thank you.

In other news my latest Yambits order arrived with all new side cover grommets, grab rail grommets, battery hold down strap and tank hold down hardware.

I've been following along. You've made a lot of methodical progress! Congrats on getting her street worthy and nearly completed!  :vroom:

Thanks.
I rode it again today. I got the Daytona calibration done and the speedometer works perfectly. Max speed recorded was 85 and Max RPM  was 10,300 on over-run, shifted at 9500. It helps if you read the instructions correctly.  I went up to 30 pilots and the pull off is better. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle 3-4000 is choppy. Turned airscrews out to 1.75 and take-off is better. Still choppy at 1/8 to 1/4. Next time I ride it I will go one lean on the needles per M in SC. Installed new battery hold down strap from Yambits so the battery is secure. 1/4 throttle and up carburetion is nearly linear. I had two brake caliper bolts that were too long and had washers and spacers under them. Evans Ward sent me two replacements. Thanks Evans!! :patriot: :patriot:. I installed them and that eliminated about 80% of the shaking when applying the front brakes but the rotors are still warped and once the get good and hot at the Gap they will only get worse. Yambits has them for $66 apiece so I will be ordering today along with bolt kits. It handles great and I am impressed with the BT46s. There's a resonance right about 5000 RPM that is either exhaust or intake howl and it is very loud. It is quite different above and below that RPM. I may throw the pods back on it and see if it changes. The power delivery is quite different than my white bike. It revs quicker but has less low end and more hit on top. There are a lot of variables and differences like the white bike has a Zeel with power valve controller and FPPs versus the stock CDI and controller on the Gray Ghost with DGs and smaller carburetors.

Been a busy couple of days. The Gray Ghost now has 25 tuning miles on the odometer and I am getting close on the jetting. I have changed pilots and needle clip positions and am still chasing a good take off and idle to 1/4 throttle. Today I went one lean on the needles and started with airscrews at 1.5. Didn't get a decent take off until I turned them in to 3/4 of a turn. 1/4 turn and up on the throttle and thecarburetion is very good. The new brake rotors and bolts should be here tomorrow.

(https://i.postimg.cc/g24FmcMc/20230422-161327.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXJ30nWN)
The majority of the bodywork is reinstalled. I learned that new grommets for the sidecovers makes all the difference in the world getting them on and off without damage to the plastic tabs. Yambits to the rescue. The right side cover has a partially missing aft tab which required a hole to be drilled near the tab and a cable tie installed. The front mount hole on RH side of the tank was cut off and installed in the wrong spot due to some previous buffonery. I used a short bungee cord knotted tightly to the forward mounting tab and hooked it to the improperly placed tank tab and the power-valve mounting bracket.  I also installed a new speedo cable guide on the front fender and the missing gas tank hold-down hardware.

Next on the list is install the new brake rotors and replace two rivets on the RH chamber to stop the RH can from flopping around and pull the pipes off for paint and can polishing. I also have to do a temporary repair on the oil pump cover (hole in it from a previous  wreck I think) and reinstall it. There are two mis-matched turn signals on the back one short and one long stem so the current plan is to take the two front ones mounted on the birdcage off and move them to the rear. That will enable me to reinstall the front fairing. 13 days to go and right down to the wire just like I swear it won't be every year.

4 business days from the UK to my door for the brake rotors and bolts. :righteous: :righteous: Life interference prevented me from putting them on. Hopefully tomorrow.

Yambits is like ordering from 2 states away, as far as shipping time. Fed Ex hustles your stuff right over like the ocean is nothing :metal:
(This is assuming that you can't find what you need at Economy Cycle).

Nice to see that you have an RZ to play with.

hoarder has 2 of them  :dawg:

Today was rotor day.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qBcTK2cm/20230425-111942.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThPFML4m)
Turns out the rotors Yambits sells for the RZ are drilled Ferodos.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dt4cHvxr/20230425-115147.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCjWM8Zh)
The left side came off pretty easy with a couple of good licks with my BFH and impact driver. I had to break out the heat gun for the ones on the right.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCv1sv6b/20230425-123928.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tntYNvGZ)
Nice new bolts pre-treated with blue loctite and torqued to the recommended 14 foot pounds after all the holes were chased and the mounting surface was scrubbed with a wire brush. Took the y-boot off and put pods on to see if it helps the very loud 5K howl. Test ride tomorrow.

I have a small fuel seep on the RH carburetor float bowl. It doesn't leak when running but is wet after setting over night. I have new gaskets on the way from Niche Cycle and a spare carb body and float bowl coming as well.

Looking good Tim. Those rotors look quite nice. And the calipers/adapters. I think you're going to be able to stop. I have had great luck with carburetor parts from Niche Cycle.

Did someone mention hoarder?

This photo is from several years ago. I pared down some but now magically up to 8 again.

(https://i.imgur.com/0pI7Oy4.jpg)

^ yep, Ken is definitely a hoarder!  :gentleman: :thumbs: And... a true Yamaha enthusiast.  :patriot: :wave: I've extended an official invitation to Ken to attend the 2024 DG Meet. He would be right at home with all of his kindred spirits that he hasn't even met yet. Would love to see him take everything in as I remember attending my first DG Meet in 2007. I was so over stimulated!!  :Clown:

Tim- love those quality front rotors and can't wait to see and eyeball them in a couple of weeks. Although I haven't posted up pics, I too have been busting my butt getting 2 bikes ready.  :omg: :eek: Finally making good progress but it's tough on my old bones being 7 weeks post op from surgery AND with a left hip that is wearing out fast.  >:(

See you soon my friend!  :wave:

 :celebrate: I will be right down to the wire as usual getting my stuff ready. Can't wait to see you all!!

(https://i.postimg.cc/GtbfbzQ8/20230426-123742.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VrHgRq2m)
I rode again today and it is pretty close to dialed in. The new Ferodo rotors are perfect and yes it does stop...I have yet to do a proper plug chop but will get to it either here or at the Gap. The pods eliminated most of the Ungodly 5000 RPM intake howl and the carburetion is now very good throughout the range. Jetting as follows: 280 main jets, 30 pilots, one lean on the needles and airscrews at 3/4 turn out.
I took the front signals off of the birdcage while the weather strip adhesive on the freshly re-glued fairing and windshield trim dried. Then I mounted the fairing. Removing the front turnsignals caused the rears to illuminate but not flash due to a lack of load per M in SC so there will be no turnsignals this year, no more time to fool with it. Just waiting on a spare carb body courtesy of M in SC  :patriot: :patriot: and some gaskets from Niche Cycle. I did a temp repair on the worn through oil pump cover which should be dry by tomorrow. Thanks to every one who helped. I couldn't have done it without you.  :patriot: :patriot:

You can just get a no-load or electronic flasher relay and that should solve the turn signal issue. Available at any auto parts store. Then it won't matter how many bulbs you have or if they're incandescent or LED. :twocents:

I may do that if time permits

if you need an oil pump cover i can give you a nice one   i replaced mine with a billet piece. it will be a 99% chance i will be at deals gap since i only live about 20 miles away

Yes please by all means bring it and I will gladly pay you something for it and/or buy you a cold adult beverage if you partake.

i will look you up when i get there !!  :patriot:

@ Tim, i figured the pods may slow down the air circuit a bit vs the y boot on the pilot circuit. glad that worked out.  :devil:

Me too. Thanks again Mark. It really runs good now. Started 1st kick with enrichener on. Select enrichener off after 30 seconds or so and it idles good. And the 5K deafening head ringing howl is nearly gone :olaf: :olaf:

Had company all weekend.  Very limited shop time. Thanks to M in SC I think I have my fuel seep issue sorted. I warmed it up and was about to take it off the lift for a test ride and saw a drop of something and found a leaking radiator   :bang: :bang: I  have one on the way from Amazon. Supposed to be here NLT than 03 May.

Tim- I'll bring spares and can bring a used known good radiator if yours doesn't make it on time. I'll have every spare cable this year too!  :eek: :clap:

Excellent
Thanks Brother Evans  :patriot: :patriot:

I have a spare RZ clutch and throttle cable as well.

(https://i.postimg.cc/VL21Q8cT/20230502-111615.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1f0bwbXc)
Radiator arrived from Amazon today. I will install it in the next couple of days. My new petcock and the petcock and float bowl gaskets just arrived at 1600 hours. I will swap it out as well. Thanks John at Economy Cycle for the overnight shipping. The petcock leaking is likely the cause of my fuel seeps as it failed the 24 hour leak check miserably with 1/4 cup of gasoline in my measuring cup this morning and no seeps at the carburetors.

Tim, consider something like this for a "fix" of the leaky petcock. I used them for a decade or so. They get sticky after a while then change it out. One day Prime shipping. I'm now doing the vacuum delete on all my RZ350 petcocks so no longer using them.

Taiss Fuel Shut Off Valve,4PCS 1/4

https://amzn.to/40YL7R4 (https://amzn.to/40YL7R4)

Here is a 90 degree one

https://amzn.to/3NwRHuS (https://amzn.to/3NwRHuS)

And I hope your alu radiator fits. I purchased 2 (kind of when they first came out) and had to cut off and relocate the big pin on the top. On both of them. Maybe they have gotten better.

(https://i.imgur.com/X6wQYkG.jpg)

I hope so too Ken. I noticed the pin location is different on the two yesterday when I was holding up the new one next to the factory radiator. On the factory radiator the pin appears to be centered. On the new one the pin is positioned to the back like the ones in your picture. I have to finish up the trailer fenders and service the GMC pickup before I can get back to it. Worse case if it doesn't fit I will take Evans Ward up on his kind offer of the use of his spare and change it at the Gap. I got a new RD400 petcock from Economy Cycle yesterday so that should solve that issue.

I have used those shut offs as well. They sell them in lawn mower shops here. The tank is nearly empty so changing out the leaking RD 400 petcock for the new one I got from John at Economy Cycle won't be a bad job.

(https://i.postimg.cc/YCszj9br/20230504-165404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gx3ZTGCQ) 
What I thought would be an hour job turned into 3. I had to bend the top locating pin, grind the frame, massage the right lower mount with my ball-peen as it was strking the bottom tank and bend the top two pipes to get it to fit without striking the frame and get the clearance needed to install the top hose. I had the radiator on and off about 58 times. I ran it up afterwards and no leaks were noted. Despite the fitment issues it appears to be a good product. $ 91 shipped Amazon. The radiator guard fit at the top but due to it being 40% more capacity the bottom tabs were about 1/4 inch from sliding into the grommets so a couple of cable ties took care of that. Then I changed the petcock and the new one from John at Economy Cycle works like a champ. I left the lines off over night suspended  over my cup to make sure But no seeps after 6 hours. Then I drilled out a loose rivet on the RH chamber and installed a new one. No more floppy can. Tomorrow I  will test ride it and load it on the trailer.

Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on May 05, 2023, 01:10:41 AM
Tomorrow I  will test ride it and load it on the trailer.

Woo-hoo! :clap:

(https://i.postimg.cc/15jgL5Pw/20230505-175605.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRtvTb18)
Test ride was most excellent. Installed NOS Nelson Rigg tailbag and it is ready to load. Thank you to everyone who helped me bring this one back and to my friend Karl Jones for giving it to me.

Looks great Tim! :olaf: Congrats.
Now go have some fun on it  :vroom: