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old school bodywork method of pulling dents was drill small holes and use slide hammer with screw bit end to pull out dents. Typically using heat as you go. The holes also allowed the Bondo to grip better, but I wouldn't want it on my gas tank. Usually, they brazed the holes shut before filler applied. More modern method is to tack on slender rods on outside of tank and use slide hammer pulling on the rods. No holes needed for newer method.

Awesome! I wish I had the patience for restorations to this degree.

that sounds frustrating  Don't they have to request you allow them to cancel? Bidding and winning is a binding sale according to eBay rules IIRC. Might be time to block that bidder and/or report them to eBay if they don't follow through.

looks like fenders on there are not original Daytona?

My stated shipping policy is I only ship to continental 48 United States. You can also state any bidder with less than "x" number of positive feedbacks must contact you before bidding or they will be cancelled.

I only saw the intro on the video and didn't have 19 minutes to spare on the whole thing. Did they happen to mention the elevation they were testing at? At near Sea Level living in San Diego 87 was our Regular and 91 was Premium. Living here in CO now at 6200' 86 or even 85 is Regular, 87 is Mid-Grade and 91 or 93 is premium depending on gas station. I bought a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee in San Diego and it recommended minimum 87- no problem that's Regular. I recently bought a 2024 Nissan Frontier that also recommends 87 minimum, but here that forces me to spend 20cents more per gallon. I always use the 87 and also top tier gas because there is a noticeable seat of the pants difference in the way both my vehicles run with 87. The Jeep is a Flex fuel motor and can run E85, but I've been wary of using even though it is the cheapest of all up here.

yeah I always ran straight VP leaded non-ethanol in my dirt racing bikes. The mandate I was referring to was the state mandate for pump gas. They always used the seasonal changeover to justify spiking pump prices due to "low refinery supply" each time they changed blends.

coming from CA, they always had different blends of fuel mandated for different times of the year to fight pollution. My recollection on this (could be imperfect) is that the "Summer Blend" was more "oxygenated" and this was achieved by blending in higher % of Ethanol. It always resulted in higher prices at the pump and we got less MPG at the same time as it burned quicker.

the idea is multiple countries globally have been placing tariffs (import duties) on American products for decades while no attempts were made by US government to "level the playing field" based on idea of Free Trade. It was just never receiving the public attention it does now. Driving force now is to achieve Fair Trade with the countries taking advantage of us. It's definitely become more personal to all of us, but if you look at the economy right now the tariffs are not having a negative effect overall and is not directly linked to the left-over inflation we still experience from previous policies. 

These JIS Impact bits are very good and made in Japan. I have been using these personally.

JIS Impact Bits from Japan on Amazon

I recently bought this set of 4 off eBay. They ship out of Las Vegas and no tariff or other BS. Arrived in 4 days. https://www.ebay.com/ipp/166756370205?

Had previously purchased the same set directly from seller in Japan as some people recommended as it was a little cheaper... but seller in Japan tries to save $ by using Japan Post Airmail with no tracking and it bit me in the ass. Arrived after 3 weeks with extra postage due over $18.00 because it didn't meet US air Mail requirements! I rejected that 1 and still waiting for refund 

you didn't mention what your towing vehicle will be, but I've found the 7' width has a lot of advantages. No extended towing mirrors needed on my F-150 and less wind resistance with trailer body in line with truck. Never even thought about it when towing behind 8' wide RV. My 

I do heat cycles with bike stationary. Jetting at normal specs. Start it and don't even expect an idle as top ends are usually tight, gently roll on throttle up to no more than 1/2 throttle and back down for 5 minutes then let it cool down. 2nd cycle start from cool motor and go 10 minutes rolling throttle up and down to about 3/4 throttle while occasionally holding it open at 3/4 turn for several seconds. 3rd cycle start from cool motor exercise throttle for 15 minutes to 3/4 throttle with occasional quick blips above 3/4. Let it cool, look at plug(s) and fire up again and do short test ride going through the gears with no WFO yet. I don't start tuning with jetting until it feels broken in.

What's your process?

automotive wheel lug nuts are tapered on 1 end which does help center the wheel 

I've had it many times with worn chains on my dirt bikes. As noted above chains don't always stretch evenly.