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It was bad coil. Both coils measured Primery = 4.2 and Secondary = 8.8 so never suspected. I changed with similar reading coils and the issue is no more. May order Suzuki SV650 coils in the future as per M in SC in other post. Changed the Main to 130 now, I think the bike need 140.

Note : Now the Bike is at 130 Main, 30 Pilot - Airscrew -Just below 1 rotation, Leanest clip position on the Jet needle - Running moderately good, there is hesitation around 4000 RPM, Planning to go 32.5 on Pilot and 140 on Main then see where the clip postion should be, what you guys think. Had 300 plus km done today without any issues, but could be better - so thought above set up.

I guess - No
Let him try and will get back

Hi All,
My friend's 1973 RD350 has an issue, it runs fine for some time and shows missing on Right Cylinder while on Traffic and eventually dies. He Kept idling high to tackle this issue, but the issue persists. Could you please advise on this, or gouide me to the post which discuss this in the Past. This Bike is Running 30 Pilot, 120 Main and Stock Needle and Needle Jet. 1 1/4 on Air Screw. Stock air box with Yambits Air Filter. Engine is Ported as per Previous Owner(dont know How far). This Bike had Dave F Mod done before with DG Pipes, he converted all Back to original set up to solve this issue.

Will try that, Thanks Skully.
Looks like not many have this issue here.

Hi All,
1976 RD400, the bike is Jerking on Deceleration, goes away if I give a littlte throttle. Never observed in my RD350's. What is the cause and how to reduce/eliminate. Front Tyre 100/90/18. No issues Riding at any speed from 60 to 90MPH, The issue stats when down shift and decelerate.
Thanks

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Is that bowl is from Left Carb ?
Should there be a hole at marked area

2 yrs ago I ordered this cheap one. It was 2XX back then for our 250 to 350 Conversion, still running good without any issue, 3000k done on this now.

Thanks Mark

Hi All,
Planning to change the exhaust from DG Pipes to Stock.
The Cylinder is ported as per previous owner and bottom end power is less, picking up at 4500 to 5000 RPM Top end is Strong. Running on Y-Boot with K&N. The Question is What I should expect once I do this change. Changing because - Like the Stock Look.

The other seat loks good for me

Update : Managed to get a new Old CDI and the issue went away. Bike is Running as good as before.
What a lesson Learned.

Checked the timing again and again, 2.0. I tried 1.8 also still the issue persists.
It kicks back so hard that my right leg is in pain. This is what I observed, when I kick, the rotor going anti-clockwise as expected, but if it did not start, the rotor bounsing back clockwise enough to give a spark and start in backward. Any advise is much appreciated.

The bike was running as it should a month ago and was not having any issue. It happened two days ago when a buyer tested the bike, I was devastated to find suddently this issue started. I took a round to show the bike but when he did a spin it stalled and then all the above issue mentioned started.
I dis assembled the carb, removed the pilot and checked today. My guess is the ignition only, I took the rotor out and put it back today, everything is tightened good. Is there any chance something happened to the crank that the right cylinder is firing too retarded which is preventing the idle to stay low.

Check your timing.
It's too advance.....

That was the first guess. I looked few times. The mark on the stator match at the small line on the Rotor at 2.0BTDC(Left Cylinder),
that means once the line matches, Piston still go up 2.0 on Dial Indicator. Need to check again I guess. How do I make sure Right Cylinder also spark at 2.0 BTDC, since there is no mark on the rotor.