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just carefully drill in a 1.5 to 2mm hole. dont go all the way thru the bowl though (ask how i know), and yes, that def explains it

Yes I will check the timing and the left carb. Also the sync. I was expecting this is how an RD350 sounds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWgb2Bb1_9A

Mine is nowhere near that 

What about the sound? IF I hear other RD 350s on youtube they sound so much sweeter?

I started my 73 for the season and it idles well but the right cylinder gets very hot. Within 20 seconds of starting, you cannot touch the right exhaust down pipe. It is Scalding hot and I feel I will hole a piston or get the uncontrolled detonation if I let it run for long. The left is fine, can touch.
Any ideas why? Also I feel my motorcycle does not sound right. Do I need a rebore? or replace rings maybe?

Finished a 400, now to start on a 350. Got some of it done before I stored it a few years ago.

I like the foam you have there. Where can I get that from? Also, any detail steps on how you wrap it. The seat looks great in the last photo.

It has been taking forever to get my parts in. A light Checker unit is simply a 12 volt light bulb connected to a couple of wires, ending in alligator clips. (It's easy to make one,as I did) The bike seemed to idle fine, but when RPMs were applied, one of the sides would misfire. At first it was just the right side, then later it switched to the left. This was pretty damn confusing. I am still using the same coils, they are stock, but they are not original. In the interim, I discovered that the autolight spark plugs I was using were equivalent to a br-9es. I found the champion equivalent to a b-9es, which is an 805. When I fired the bike up, it seemed to be improved running on the bench. Received the fiber plates for the clutch last night. When I took the clutch apart, I discovered there are no rubber dampeners in between the metal and fiber plates. (7) I am now hesitant to reassemble without these parts. The local Yamaha shop wants $21 a piece, which I think is out of hand. Question: are these rubber Parts in between the plates really necessary? Could the source of the misfire malady been caused by using plugs that were too cold of a heat range? My RD has the DG heads  (which is why I'm using an ES instead of an HS plug) and expansion chambers.

I had a similar issue and had the same autolight spark plugs but one of them(cylinders) would not fire. I bought new NGK BR8s, put them in and now idles like a champ.

I put in B8HS sparkplug to the right and it started firing. I wanted to replace the left side too so put the plug in the cap and tried to check for spark by kicking and the bike again started on right    . Now it idles like a champ, starts with one kick.

yeah that will work. the '10' means it's gapped to 1mm. me? I'd get new coils, those 49 year old ones are probably done. coils, caps wires. economy cycle sells the whole setup in a bundle, not too exensive  with it swapping spark from left to right,  verify battery voltage is over 11v and it's charging up to 13v. this is way more critical than most think.  good luck w it

Thanks! What about the points, are they interchangeable?

I am trying to start my 1973 RD 350 stock (no airbox), on points and Carbs don't have Y boot. It always starts on the left cylinder. The left coil gets very hot too. I have some autolight spark plugs and short leads from coils. The right plug was not firing. I switch to the good plug and sometimes the right works but then stops . 
I want to buy new spark plugs and some lead wires for coils. The current leads are too short to swap left to right. Please post some links to spark plugs. Will the below work?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/copper-core/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/ngk-copper-core-plug-number-5126-spark-plug/ngk1/5126

Also quick question on points. Are the left and right points interchangeable? Meaning if I buy 2 left points from fleabay can I put one to left and another to the right?

I am in GA too and new to this forum. Who is DR Quinzler ? Is he in GA too?

Wow that is some story. Hopefully bad luck only strikes once. That is a lot of stuff to lose.

Sounds and looks like ya got something decent to work with!

Yep it is mostly original but missing the airbox and y boot.

Your pipe header is leaking at the coupler. Runs better with it tight.

https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rd250350400r5ds6ds7-parts/engine-related/gasketsseals-engine/rd250-rd350-exhaust-gasket-360-14714-00-00-between-header-and-muffler/

IR8D8R

Their shipping is a little high to be honest. It is hard for me to justify the shipping cost the same as the cost of the parts 

oh yeah thats a one lung thump.  but, progress! take the plug out of the RH cyl, put the plug in the plug cap, lay on the rh cyl. fire it up (yes with plug out) and 1: this will clear out the RH cyl and 2: check for spark on the RH plug. IF its sparking, then it probably just had a loaded up crankcase which will immediately foul a plug.

otherwise, great start!    we all still go thru this sometimes.

It is actually the other way around, the RH side always wires, it is the left that starts and stops in fits. I Will do what you suggested on the left side. I will also check the plugs. Never thought about that. Thanks.
Also does anything else seem out of whack?

The winter is coming, had a little time to get some electrical sorted. I bought it as non-runner last September. I cleaned the points up to get spark. I have cleaned the carbs as best as I can. This is my first time working on a bike. The timing was ok, have not timed it with the dial gauge. I just wanted to see whether it would fire up. I have cleaned the tops of the pistons. Looks like it is standard.
The right cylinder runs hot to touch, the left is cool. It does not have the gasket between the exhaust header and the exhaust. Doesn't sound anything like what I have heard here from some of the videos posted??