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they didnt stop. fast from the past did.

so who is importing? Google didn't turn up anything but HVC and fast from the past, and like you said they quit.

I am pretty dead set that the sprocket is my problem.
I didn't spin the sprocket, I just centered that extra slop that it has. I am going to make some calls to see if the numbers I got line up with the specs that economy cycle has, and the manufacturer rebel gears.

So I pulled the rear wheel, and checked the sprocket, and bearings. Wheel bearings were perfect, cush drive is still good, looks like my carrier bearing has a bit of play, like if you were to try and twist the carrier on the axle, same way you check wheel bearings on the bike.
So once I had the wheel on the truing stand, I checked the sprocket and it acted out of round. Sat the wheel on the ground, and realized that around the carrier, inside the center bore of the rear sprocket there was a large gap on one side and none on the other. The taller area fell between the two green dots I made, which falls in line with all the slack in the sprocket being on that side.
So I pulled the rear sprocket and the center bore of the sprocket was 1mm larger than the hub on the sprocket carrier. Any other sprocket I have fitted has been a tight fit, but this one is definitely not, but I did not think much of it at time of install.
I have it back together, and now there is a much smaller variation in chain tension. About 1/4 in or less, vs the 3/4 it was.
Has anyone else had a sprocket that loose on the hub? I'm thinking of just ordering a custom one from sprocket specialists.

when it does it, kill the fuel, pull over and pull a bowl. see how much is in the carb. if its full, ign. if its empty or super low (my guess) fuel feed issue. the hybrid did that, turned out the seat in the needle and seat was too small, went up to a 3.0 and solved. was literally sucking the bowls dry

What do you mean hybrid?

Sounds like youre on the right track. Your float must be stuck, try tapping it or clearing out what is causing the gas to continue to flow. Your float height may be a factor, I would just check the fuel valve/plunger seat.

I tried tapping it, but I think I'll have to pull it. Just didnt have the time.

Is jim lomas importing to the US again?

Started the bike up, and it sounded crisp, sounds better than before. My new problem is the left carb started absolutely pouring out of its overflow. I am hoping I somehow put something back in wrong, because this is the carb that I had to do the most adjusting on the float arm. I think it was at 17, and I brought them both back to about 16

I used pro bolt stainless hardware. The ebay titanium hardware is also pretty nice.

To rule out manufacturing issues (defects) with the chain you can measure sections of 10-14 links with calipers in different spots around the chain. Compare the section where it's tight to where it is looser. If it's not the chain then you have radial runout on one (or both) of the sprockets.

This is my plan for my next move, as well as putting the wheel on a truing stand and checking sprocket runout in all directions, and checking bearings.

I will doulbe check the bearings and front sprocket. One of my worries about just adjusting for the loose spot, is that it would be so loose on other spots it might drag on the swingarm, and these are not set up for that. Also if the sprocket is the problem, would it. Not just continue making the chain worse?
I haven't found any sticky spots in the chain yet, but I can double check.

Pretty common in my experience.

Make sure the axle adjusters are even, the chain run is straight, and split the difference.

The tight bit will wear faster than the loose bit, and it'll all even out in the end.

all of that is even, and the chain and sprockets are all straight and aligned.
How many times have you seen tjis work out? The only time I have run into it was a worn out chain that was not maintained.

Always fully disassemble the carb. Then either throw it in an ultrasonic cleaner or spray with carb cleaner and compressed air. I usually have a brass brush on hand to clean. Small wire bristles will help with small holes.

I dont have an ultrasonic, but I do always use carb cleaner. I keep an assortment of wiring and old cables for small passages.

The cush drive is new, and is pretty tight. I checked the drive for any play around the axle or any deflection,  but I can check again.
quocle603, the conversion kit is new, but how do you mean to check if its true?
I am also considering just getting another sprocket and trying that as well

I also did a post about the exact length of all the hardware used.

So I have a 520 conversion kit on my 73 RD350, bought from economy cycle with a DID ert3 chain. The setup has about 500 miles on it.
So my problem is that at one point in the chain, my slack will be at 1 1/4", another 1 3/8, and at its tightest 3/4".
I thought at first that it was the chain, but I am beginning to think rear sprocket. I marked the sprocket, and as I roll the wheel around, every time the sprocket is at the same point, the chain gets tight, regardless of where it falls on the chain. If I just spin the wheel around say 180°, the chain loosens up.
Has anyone experienced this? I talked to economy cycle and he said they have never run into this issue.
 The wheel is aligned, chain is straight, tire is centered in the swingarm.
I checked the runout of the sprocket by putting a ziptie on the swingarm, and a section of about 12 teeth would contact the ziptie, then the rest would be about 1mm or less from touching. I dont know if this is acceptable because I have never checked one, just trying to see if I can find my issue. I can include pics if someone thinks I may have something there