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John Kocinski on the YZR500 -



Made sure to post a 2-stroke photo this time!

(Rookie mistake)

So sad to see.

I still enjoy print magazines more than online content and was a CW subscriber until printing ended.

Like many of you here, I was always eager to get my hands on the latest issue of CW, Cycle, Motorcyclist, or Cycle Guide.  At one time I subscribed to them all. As a young rider and racer, it was exciting to see tests on the latest, greatest, new cycles coming out.  I'd buy a new one almost every year.

The publishing landscape has changed, but so has the rider demographic.  Young people just don't seem to be as drawn-in to the motorcycle world like we were - and most still are.

One of my riding buddies just picked up this '86 Honda NS400R locally -



A bit rough around the edges, and needs a few parts, but runs ok.

i think they are the same actually. 

Pretty sure that is correct.

My buddy and I had a chance to check out a 60-bike private collection yesterday in WI.

Some very nice cycles, mostly original or nicely restored, and some vintage cars as well. He has done much of the mechanical and restoration work himself, but has the paint done professionally.

Here are some of the 2-strokes he has, many I'd never seen before -









While not a 2-stroke, probably my favorite 60s Honda, the CB92 - one with the full factory race kit -

Holy masking Batman!

That's some nice fading and striping!

You obviously have a lot of patience...

A R1-Z was shipped from OK with my TZR, and may have been heading to a collector in WI -




Neat bike.  I had never seen one before.

Reminds me of the typical bike that was designed by a committee of non-motorcyclists.

Always more power, with no concern for balance and handling.

Kinda looks like a mess to me, just way too much going on (I'm a simple guy, mostly).

It's for the (rich) people that crave excess.

"When only too much is enough..."

The TZR rear wheel does not use that type of cush-drive.

What is the heat rating for the caliper paint?  What brand?

I'm surprised it can handle the heat of the pipes.

A wire brush will work, but moderate media blasting gives you a bit more "tooth" for the paint to grip to, and better overall adhesion.

Clean with Denatured Alchohol and wipe until you don't get anything on the rag. Use gloves, and brush-over the surface to removal any lint before spraying.

If you like a semi-gloss high heat finish, Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra is very good.  Generally a finish with some amount of gloss is more durable and stronger than a dead-flat finish. I've used PJ1 and VHT High heat - and wasn't impressed with either.

Spray enough to get it covered and smooth in the first coat, then after a few minutes, do a second.  Most paints are the most chip resistant with just enough to get it covered, and a little more, but not thick.  Thick paint will chip easier.

Work in the shade and don't spray if the part is hot.  After spraying, you can put it in the sun to speed up the curing.

Some high heat paints need to be run-in on the engine to fully cure.

The easy way to tell if your paint is fully cured is to smell it.  Fully cured paint has no smell.

this one specifically https://www.ebay.com/itm/284796177040

Everything (cylinders, pistons, rings, etc) for $169 and free shipping?

And they are decent?

There are even some similar kits out there for half that!

Wow!

[drop some pump 93 in it]

if it were me, I'd drop some pump 93 in it and try it. ive heard people claim high octane requirement a lot, where its absolutely not needed.

listen for detonation. it'll probably be fine. if it pings back the timing off.

Many engines will run better and make more power with just enough octane to prevent detonation - and no more.

Added one today to Progressive policy...raised yearly premium $13.00

I have Progressive, am 62, and have never filed a claim.

My daily rider SV costs me $75 per year IIRC.

Do you know how they are if the time comes to file a claim?