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This bike has been listed a few times. I contemplated reaching out to the guy back in September, but really wanted an RD instead. Great looking bike, but nothing to tinker with.

In Nashville for work. Saw this on Marketplace. 

TZ-250

Anyone able to confirm if stock 350 wheel/wheel axle is useable? The picture looks like a different axle w some spacer bits, but worth asking. 

**Pic was from Rodneya in a previously referenced thread. 

Thanks @85RZWade. All you needed was the RD400 pivot bolt and the 6.5mm (16mm ID) frame spacers (and inner pivot bolt bushing/tube)?

I assume the stock 350 wheel hasn't been tried, although it looks like the rear axle is wider in diameter than stock 350.  The TDR hub will look delicious   

I've been digging into swing arm options for an RD350. This is all assuming the drum brake remains intact. I can turn wrenches, cut shit, and hit things with a hammer, but I have no ability or capability to machine, weld, or fab.  The MotoLanna alloy swing arm for the SR, TT, XS, etc looks especially sexy for the price.

I email MotoLanna to ask if they are aware if their swing arm has successfully been installed on an RD.  Attached is the response I received.

At the frame side, all I need is a 400 pivot bolt and some bearings and thrust washers. Shiiit.....can't be that easy, can it?

Assuming it is that easy at the frame side, and aside from a possibly a longer chain, linkage modification, what else should I investigate at the wheel side? SR/XS wheels or spacers if needed? Surely someone has gambled $300 on one of these and seen it through on a 400 or 350.   

The short answer to the original question is to remove the foam and clean up the base.  Then cover it with a layer of reasonably thick plastic or apply a generous coating or two of mold release and lay s couple or three layers of fiberglass and resin on top. When it has cured, remove what is not the new seat base and trim it to size.  get a piece of foam cut to match the seat pan and take it to an auto upholstery place to get the cover of your own design made and stuck or stapled to it.

Attach velco to the seat base and seat pan to hold them together.  Done.

After toiling over it for a couple days, I've thought about using 1/8" thick thermoplastic as a rigid base, shaping some foam, and paying an auto upholster to cover. As simple as Velcro sounds, I wouldn't have otherwise considered it. Appreciate the advice.

A few pics of Doug's builds from his shop. Steve Fuentes is the guy who did the work in the shop for Doug

Del Mar Special in front of Doug's shop in North Hollywood






Latigo Canyon Special

That is epically cool! Really appreciate you sharing those. It certainly explains why nearly every bike I've seen with this tail fairing has a 750 tank.

Whoever owned it prior to me, decided to build in the hardware so that it functions like an OEM seat pan. The only problem is that it sits way too high on the frame rails and looks a little silly relative to the tank.

The 750 tank is also something I'd like to purchase, however it looks like it requires some heavy modification based on what I've seen. Also a seemingly very rare tank these days. Deadbeat(?) Customs is the closest re-pop I can find.

I saw the "317 Hyams" at Barbor this past year, and decided this is the styling I wanted to explore. Such a great looking bike if you happen to catch this thread.

That said, I bought this seat off EBay yesterday. Searching through Google images, this exact seat pan shows up a lot on flat track builds. A couple of Moto Carerra bikes as well.

I want to replace or upholster the padding, but I suck at upholstry. I'm hoping someone can tell me who made these fiberglass seat pans/rear cowls, so that I may be able to locate a better looking pad. One covered in vinyl vs open foam.

My guesses are Saddleman? Moto Carerra? Was there a well know craftsman that made these in the past? They all look identical but I cannot find who made them.

  My brother in 2T obsession. Thank you very much. Love to see how helpful guys are on this forum. Way better than FB. 

38-42 pilot
jjh needle middle
142-150 main

should get you close

Thank you, sir! I'm going to attempt properly jet the pods first, with the Y-Boot as an alternative. I'm collecting reference points for future modifications, so thank you again! I've jetted a few 2T dirt bikes (Beta), but all had electronic oil injection. This will be my first attempt with a premix bike.
 
Do you have a baseline recommendation for your pod bikes? A rough estimation would be very helpful. Your elevation and climate are similar to mine (GA). Current pilot and needle fat. Only change I've made is running 40:1 vs 50:1.


-Reed spacers (cylinder side)
-PWK 28mm
-Spec 2 classic pipes (possibly intended for an RD400)
-per your suggestion, Uni 4" PODs on the way.
-Dyna S ignition

TP: (not even under load)
0-1/4: VERY blubbery and inconsistent. 
1/4-3/4: distinctly feel the transition from pilot to needle. On a flat road, whack the throttle, very slow to wind up. 
3/4-WOT(7500-8000 RPM): front tire lifts and I laugh to myself.

Aweso

you can get adapters for the y boot to fit. however, there's not much improvement over unis on this setup  but its pretty good. I actually have a set of these,  they transition nicely.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/205329844408?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264184%2C297274%26meid%3Db0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%26pid%3D101430%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145136669534%26itm%3D205329844408%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V2AndXaiHotClickWithCompV6WithEbertNRTRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101430.m2460&itmprp=cksum%3A205329844408b0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABMDJfxvEKz%252FWsdyy97PIVwAhtkTIJPGKp%252Bu7TYjjsvNO4eN9duTRR%252FSVFYts6UXmN8tSK75ee0LypjLaKkPNQ2gkat4DyNLnViXKBVpI1%252B5fAXiG4ymw5%252BD4QiZh5nLn8OmQxsMtW2i8ZUV2pH7rpMHom3tehwcYL74GdskUTIs7%252BsNJe88EaLSRtkkqVA%252BkGhl2iLiCQB9v2SDbCmWXDM138yOcU4PGV9cmIfVPYtDanhBqbvm1cYVWjUy79xVGBqasqT%252B06FVf6RpStTUX5knfyPthf7aHc3jETcSsaf3MYAZCqb%252F4Xb5CiIudSl%252FFC%252BdwwC9w8t18fenoAcBYAFuPCH1ChJVwjeUq2ff1mztyOH22my6e6gZKuQCEoPb%252BCalLgLap8bRaMVWVOKd57irU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KD9H0WYT7FX8627R02V9PHPQ

Yep. Currently running this on my pwk28 set up. Runs great!

me

you can get adapters for the y boot to fit. however, there's not much improvement over unis on this setup  but its pretty good. I actually have a set of these,  they transition nicely.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/205329844408?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264184%2C297274%26meid%3Db0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%26pid%3D101430%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145136669534%26itm%3D205329844408%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V2AndXaiHotClickWithCompV6WithEbertNRTRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101430.m2460&itmprp=cksum%3A205329844408b0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABMDJfxvEKz%252FWsdyy97PIVwAhtkTIJPGKp%252Bu7TYjjsvNO4eN9duTRR%252FSVFYts6UXmN8tSK75ee0LypjLaKkPNQ2gkat4DyNLnViXKBVpI1%252B5fAXiG4ymw5%252BD4QiZh5nLn8OmQxsMtW2i8ZUV2pH7rpMHom3tehwcYL74GdskUTIs7%252BsNJe88EaLSRtkkqVA%252BkGhl2iLiCQB9v2SDbCmWXDM138yOcU4PGV9cmIfVPYtDanhBqbvm1cYVWjUy79xVGBqasqT%252B06FVf6RpStTUX5knfyPthf7aHc3jETcSsaf3MYAZCqb%252F4Xb5CiIudSl%252FFC%252BdwwC9w8t18fenoAcBYAFuPCH1ChJVwjeUq2ff1mztyOH22my6e6gZKuQCEoPb%252BCalLgLap8bRaMVWVOKd57irU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KD9H0WYT7FX8627R02V9PHPQ

Yep. Currently running this on my pwk28 set up. Runs great!

I'll have to give it a shot. I reviewed the jetting table and there was very little (if any) data around jetting a PWK with a Y-Boot. Do you have a rough foundation of where to start with jetting the Y-boot?

Current jetting is very fat and I assume I'll need to lean it out with a Y-boot.

This bike can be yours for the low low price of $2800.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1XYPbHsY9U/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Hoping it's good for everybody!

May 2026 be good for grippin' and rippin' too.

Kudos to a man who emailed me about some parts on Christmas Day. That's dedication to the 2T addicts. Merry Christmas.

you can get adapters for the y boot to fit. however, there's not much improvement over unis on this setup  but its pretty good. I actually have a set of these,  they transition nicely.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/205329844408?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264184%2C297274%26meid%3Db0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%26pid%3D101430%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145136669534%26itm%3D205329844408%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V2AndXaiHotClickWithCompV6WithEbertNRTRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101430.m2460&itmprp=cksum%3A205329844408b0e71567ab474e98989f2f06e67aee94%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABMDJfxvEKz%252FWsdyy97PIVwAhtkTIJPGKp%252Bu7TYjjsvNO4eN9duTRR%252FSVFYts6UXmN8tSK75ee0LypjLaKkPNQ2gkat4DyNLnViXKBVpI1%252B5fAXiG4ymw5%252BD4QiZh5nLn8OmQxsMtW2i8ZUV2pH7rpMHom3tehwcYL74GdskUTIs7%252BsNJe88EaLSRtkkqVA%252BkGhl2iLiCQB9v2SDbCmWXDM138yOcU4PGV9cmIfVPYtDanhBqbvm1cYVWjUy79xVGBqasqT%252B06FVf6RpStTUX5knfyPthf7aHc3jETcSsaf3MYAZCqb%252F4Xb5CiIudSl%252FFC%252BdwwC9w8t18fenoAcBYAFuPCH1ChJVwjeUq2ff1mztyOH22my6e6gZKuQCEoPb%252BCalLgLap8bRaMVWVOKd57irU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KD9H0WYT7FX8627R02V9PHPQ

The more I dive into the interwebs, it seems the difference between pods and Y-Boot on my street machine, is nominal. A Y-Boot would be more desirable in a race application. Would you agree?

Thanks for the responses. You're all over this forum and clearly know your stuff. Merry Christmas

You could try soaking a y boot in a 50/50 mixture of wintergreen oil and either xylene or acetone overnight, then putting the PWK's into the openings and let it dry out...

That's a thought. Seems like it could become a pain in the butt to re-jet afterwards. I have a buddy with a crispy Y-boot that I'm sure he'll give to me. Worth a shot.