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Yeah, I like the idea of the RZ. Will have to figure out the length of the sensor...

Thanks Guys.

Has anyone tried adapting a electrical oil level sensor to the RD350B 2T oil tank and speedo dash? I know most will say that the oil level window and dip stick suffices, but just wondering if anyone has done this mod. I think its a cool mod....Seems like the RD250 came with this upgrade as an OEM fitment..

Niceee

TX500 forks have caliper mounting lugs on both legs and the full assembly is roughly 1.5" longer than RD forks. The right side lower is the same part on the TX and RD. Lowers are interchangeable.
A left fork slider from a '73-74 TX500 can be swapped in to replace your OE RD350 lower. That will give you a provision for mounting a caliper on the other side (in front of the leg). As mentioned above if you swap sides with lowers to move the caliper behind the fork you're going to lose the speedo drive function.

371-23126-60-00  FORK TUBE, LOWER LEFT    TX500, TX500A, XS500B
351-23136-50-00  FORK TUBE, LOWER RIGHT  RD350, RD250B, TX500, TX500A, XS500B

Thank you very much SoCal for sharing these deets, this is extremly hepful.

350guy, I thought about it last night after I posted, I might be giving you wrong info on what you are wanting to do.

 The TX lowers are the forks to get dual disc on a RD but I think you are going to have the same speedo problem as with flipping factory forks around for the caliper in the back.  You will just gain the caliper on the same side as stock.  Sorry for the confusion.

Thank you Oxford guy for clarifying, know that it is appreciated.

To me it looks like a normal European model RD250/400 from 1976/77 and USA model RD400 1976-78 fork.
Regards Uwe

I did a search on Googly and I think Uwe you are correct. The US 1977 RD400 seems to be it, as it has the little wire holder tab just blow the dust boot.
Uwe, du bist richtig! Vilen Dank!

I am wondering if these forks are off the XS650 or RD400 grafted on to the RD350? The the rim/tire is 18". It has a small cable holder just below the fork boot dust cover. I googled and it's only the Daytona is similar. Could it be off the Daytona? Thanks guys.

You need a fork leg from a TX500.

Thank you Oxford. Just the outer or the internal/guts as well?

Here is some inspiration if you are still going the OEM route.  100 3/8" holes per rotor and they were also thinned down to around 5mm.

Thanks for sharing, looks great. I've now made up mind to go the blue dot way....the challenge is obtaining the specs for the flange and adaptor for the RD350B (1975 model) is a challenge as mine has the OEM fork legs with the caliper in the front unlike the RD400.....

You can swap the fork legs left to right, if you don't use the oem speedo.

I thought about that Dvsrd, but I will be using the OEM Speedometer. I see that some XS650 guys had done this mod, but I guess the dims for those outer fork legs are different unless they are pre-1977.....

Here is some inspiration if you are still going the OEM route.  100 3/8" holes per rotor and they were also thinned down to around 5mm.

Thanks for sharing, looks great. I've now made up mind to go the blue dot way....the challenge is obtaining the specs for the flange and adaptor for the RD350B (1975 model) is a challenge as mine has the OEM fork legs with the caliper in the front unlike the RD400.....

All that being said half a pound is half a pound.

On a lightweight bike like an RD, less unsprung weight is REALLY noticeable on bumpy roads. A more extreme example is when I converted my XS650D from the oem twin 267 mm discs (more like boat Anchorage, really) to a single 320 mm ISR disc, and a Brembo 4 pot caliper. Combined with an alloy front fender, Ti fasteners and alloy bearing spacers, I lost around 5 kg/ 12 lbs of unsprung weight. From around 16 kg to around 11 kg IIRC. The difference was noticeable before you got into second gear.....

True dat! I've ridden a friends bike with a similar conversion and yes, the unsprung weight really makes a difference.

fzr or ducari rotor and blue dot caliper saves a ton of weight and increases performance better than any original style setup.

Happy thanksgiving.
Thanks Mark. I guess this upgrade does require the disc spacer/flange and adapter for the dot caliper etc. that needs to be fabricated and is not plug and play, correct? If yes, are you guys fabricating your own?

The 1980 Yamaha RD400G was the last Canadian model that came with a CDI as factory OEM fitting. Not sure though if the crank ends were the same as the Banshee or LC.......

Thanks guys, this is helpful.

points model it wont fit the crank at all. you need to run a crank that can take the rotor drum, and thats a large taper end. banshee, lc, or rz.

however, the other components will bolt in to the cases. plate etc. 

would be more effective to fit an HPI or a vape.  below is a pic of a banshee ignition, in aircooled cases, using a 4l0 crankshaft. I do not recommend going this route  as the crankshaft needs to be modified on the other end OR the oil injection removed and the covers modified greatly.

Thank you so much Mark, as always super knowledgeable and helpful. Now that I see yours above, definitely I will look at HPI or Vape. Thanks again.