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They all do this, well known.

There is a lot of conflicting information on the internet about pre-ignition and detonation.

Wait until somebody tries to tell you that you have pre-dotonation going on

I heard that at work, many times.
(one of the Big Three)!

pre-ignition is not normal. it is the #1 killa of 2 strokes.

detonation due to timing or c.r. is rectified by adjustment of such.


pre-ign leads to deto as much as 60° btdc. your 50m/s flame speed is half correct.

#1 Pre-ignition events do not last long, 10 or so then a hole in a piston.

Not to be confused with simple detonation.

Needle 2nd from top? why, the needle is wrong?
300 mains? Rich, someday lighten up on that.

cut-away is?
needle jet is?
jet needle is?

Giving the Phoenix Project some much needed love. Tires. New Unis and a repaint on the Denco Killers. And a good scrubbing and detailing while it is on the lift.
I did a compression test as this motor has 10,287 hard street miles on it. Years ago Scott Clough Racing did a mild port job, decked the cylinders and reshaped the combustion chambers on the heads.
All 3 are 170 PSI and change. I borescoped all 3 cylinders and everything looks good, really good for over 10K.

Got me beat. I am at 170psi all 3.

What's the power band feel like and what is iggy timing?

cliff

30MPG US from Kalamazoo to Southfield
1/2 rain so I took it easy.
H1 500 w/stock carbs.

Most are interference fit from factory.
Meaning stay tight to the case.

Bune does exception work.

3x Kawasaki 500 within .00015/.00020"
Deck to base within .001"

My measures are within .0002" with R90/C90

cliff

2 different plugs may do it

I would, love to here, many others also.

Compression is an indicator of potential octane required, that's it.
How well that octane combusts is they key.
Squish/ign timing/pipes/transfers all play a big or moderate role adding up to more that just a compression test.

technically no. but it can be done, i would not recommend it. with an ex race bike, its worth splitting the cases and doing a full inspection.

trust me, i've had bikes that 'ran'. one had a blown crank seal, the other was missing half a piston.  thersa slew of horror stories i can rehash.

always worth spending an afternoon to go thru the bottom end, re-gasket it, and replace anything suspect due to wear and know exactly where you stand. a gasket set is cheap. crank seals are cheap. good insurance.     

Elaborate why teflon is not your favorite. Please?

I have always wanted one.

Teflon tipped seals!
Plastic main cages!

That's what I wanna see.

Aluminum A383 or 360