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its fine. I bet they are old kawasaki s2 or s3 coils, they are the same but black. or they are lucas coils. either way, they are OLD so tread carefully, they may not last.

yup.

these, right?

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/products/emgo-12-volt-ignition-coils-pair-lucas-style

they the round ones? emgos, which are actually replacements for 60s British bikes from the 60s, sold as 'high performance'. I hate those things as they might fit but its always a hack to get them in there.

^ the testing procedure is correct above.



 

i'll be honest, looks a lot like the TZR shock which i replaced with an r1 unit. i just swapped out the stock spring on the tzr shock onto the r1 body and it worked great. not sure if that's an option here, i did try to look up what that shock crossed to, and any info, didn't see anything. Im sure yss makes something what will work but no idea what.

https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=4931.105

however since yours is eyelet to clevis:

or similar??.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/186408056415?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZuootFupRv-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

man thats nice. love the colors.

.. i just need to go back to typing class. 

the triumph scramblers had a 270. ive heard of it being done on 2t twins for dirt applications, it gives a 'pause' between 'power pusles' tot eh rear wheel to aid in traction. 

yeah, its fine. I got lucky and the delkevic exhaust -just- allowed me to get the oil pan off w out pulling it.

my battery impact made quick work of the job comparatively, as did the air ratchet to remove the oil pan bolts, but the one thing i didn't have was a 30mm socket (of all things) for the clutch nut, so had to borrow one.. then bought one the next day.. because, that just wouldn't do not having one. But this job could have easily been done w basic hand tools on the centerstand. the power tools just made it more convenient.

me too. need that for the little mill. clever indeed!

trying to avoid the 2 screws to pull the needle? i mean, how many times you planning on pulling the needle? tims right, cables are different. to speed thing sup, while tuning, just run 1 screw till its dialed in, then when it sonde, put the 2nd screw in.  I do this w fuel bowls as well. 2 screws to tune, 4 for running.

there's many ways to do it. me? i hit the base gaskets with wd40 and put em on wet. NOW, before you do this, set the base gaskets, both, on the motor and make sure the 2 inner ends don't touch each other. IF they do, trim them down just enough so they don't.

I usually put a bit of oil in the head bolt threads, just a dash, and i spray copper head gasket spray on my head gaskets. but, thats me and MY method. step torque in 3 steps, heat cycle, check again, then 3 heat cycles and recheck again, then done IMHO.

probably going to have to disassemble the shock, which is going to be a mess because its probably (reasonably) impossible to recharge.

spare set of cyls back from the shop being bored to freshen up the top end .. one on it has a slight tick that might be? piston slap. 38.5mm bore of fury.

I had a hell of a time finding a shop that could go under 40mm.

ABSOLUTELY. man, i wish i took more then. I'll look see if i have any more... but i think that was it.

ive run jjj's as well.