Messages

Was my thought too on the plate not being the issue.

 Clutch engagement seems to feel fine to me. It will kick
start in gear with the clutch pulled.
 The problem is liveable, just rather annoying.
Cheers, Jeff

Curious. My RD250 is hard to shift after a full motor rebuild and I do not
 know why. Picked the bike up as a barn find. So I do not know how it shifted
 before the rebuild.

 What is the possibility that the plastic switch plate is causing it?

 It is also difficult to engage neutral with the engine running. Easier
 when cold, gets harder when fully warm.

Thanks John.
 

https://www.planetlambretta.com/

 If you need anything for your Lambrettas, my friend of 30 years
 runs Planet Lambretta.
 And if you ever get to So. Cal. you need to visit his museum.

 Nice bikes too. Cheers, Jeff

 Thanks everybody. Didn't want to open a can of worms.
 Good chance I'll be traveling with Russ, SoCal250
 We will figure out something.
 Cheers, Jeff

 Can we park our truck / trailers overnight at Advanced Motion Controls?
 Is there a possibility to sleep overnight in one's camper there too?

  It would make the logistics of attending much easier.

 Thanks, Jeff
 

 Noe too far for So-Cal-250 and I to attend.
 It is also not far away from "The Bike Shed" restaurant
 that we have been meaning to visit.
 Thanks.

When Ed Erlenbach rebuilt my RD250 motor. I think he
 used either Roland Sands Racing or Lossa Engineering
 to vapor blast my engine casings. All I got....
 Hope someone else has more suggestions. Good luck.
 Jeff
 

Russ. Can you get to the two Phillips head screws through the petcock hole?
 The picture you took using the borescope makes it look possible with a long
 screwdriver.
 Drop the lock lever away from the cap assembly.
 Just a thought.
 Cheers, Jeff

I love mine, or I used to... 
Poor thing has not run in over ten years.
I bought it new in 1986 and put 83,000 miles on it.
I believe the starter clutch has failed. Starter spins
with out turning over the motor. 99.99% sure I would
have to pull the motor and split the cases to repair the
starter problem.
The picture is from Laguna Seca trip in 1986 also with my 1982
Ascot FT500. The lower faring was a loan from Lockhart to
display the bike during the races. Wish I had bought the faring
when it was installed.
I might be willing to let it go to a new owner if that person was
really going to restore and ride it. Would have to be to a GOOD home.
I also still have the Ascot, but, it is pieces and boxes.
I'm in So. Cal.
Cheers everyone.

When it drops to $2,500, might be worth thinking about.
Bet it still has no title and needs crank seals. Otherwise it
was a nice looking bike.
Put a 350 top end on it and have some fun.
cheers, Jeff

Is this the McMaster O-ring you are referring to?

https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/dash-number~039/

Part number 9452K127

https://www.mcmaster.com/9452K127/

Looks like I'll need to order 100 qty.

Says max temp range 250F ?

(edit:)  Looking closer is see 8 other types of rubber with varying temperature ranges in that size.

Thanks, but I dont know stock TZ O-ring sizes.
Jeff


DesmoDrew:
Should be '039' o-ring. That is pretty much a universal number for that part/size. Same size as OEM Yamaha TZ230/350 o-rings.

Thanks for Scott's #.  I need to ask him about the O-Ring size / brand he
uses on his RD250, o-ring head modification.
I am assuming it is a McMaster-Carr part.
Thanks, Jeff

  a 1974 with a drum front brake? Thought the '74 had a disk.

This is what I used on my 1973 RD250 project.
Aircraft stripper. The can on the left was the good stuff.
Found the last can in Ca. I think. The non-Methylene on the
right took twice, or more, as long to soften up the paint.
Then is was to the blast cabinet with glass beads.
Lots of elbow grease and a full box of patients. Came out great.

Not sure if my picture attachment will work. Might be too large.

Lots of work, but, worth it in the long run.
Jeff

I have high praise for the Ikon shocks on my RD250

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/7614-series-shock-absorbers/