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You can measure the primary winding resistance in your old coils and compare it to the auto ones. Test across the 2 small wires coming out of the coil. I think the oem ones should be about 3-4 ohms and if the auto ones are close to that it should be ok. If the auto coils are only 1 ohm they may get too warm and a ballast resistor will fix that, like what is on the RD400.

Not with my bike but while driving my car, THE TAILGATING, OMG THE TAILGATING.

Check it like this. Notice how the steel needle doesn't seem to stick out like the vitron.

Looks like it is installed right. When I installed the vitron's in my carbs I noticed that the tab that pushes on it needed to be adjusted because the new needles stuck out of brass valve farther and caused the fuel level in the bowls to be too low (maybe I have the wrong needles?). Do you have a side view of the carb with the needles in showing that flat brass piece the floats push on and does it look level?

If it's like the Cushman engines back in the '70s, both cylinders share the same crankcase and fire at the same time.

Happy Birthday.       Wish I was 52 again.

Jspooner,
I've checked several parts diagrams and I don't see the springs you noted at the bottom of the forks?
I can't seem to paste a photo here.
Hemi

I took that picture this morning of the fork pieces. I don't think they were ever available?? Yamaha had the fork tube come as an assembly with them installed.

It's not the dampening rod. Can't really do anything wrong there. What I'm talking about are actually at the bottom of the tube on the inside. If you pull it all apart and remove the dampening rod and look at the bottom of the tube you'll see s9me stuff held in with come c-clips. That's what I'm talking about. Normally you leave that stuff in tact when working on the forks but when you replace tubes you have to remove then and reinstall them in the new tubes.

I think it's called the top out valve. It causes real strong damping the last 1/4" of topping out. Remove the snap ring on the inside of the fork tube and pull the piston/bushing out and it should be in there, aluminum valve and spring.

Looks like after they assemble it, they spin it in a lathe and make it concentric and set the OD to spec.

show a pix of it!!

Old board with bad resistor right in the middle between the coil and fuse



New board looks very different

Is that a part that regularly goes bad?
 I've been running mine pretty hard for a couple months now cleaning A LOT of parts.

I shouldn't go bad. They asked me to check the 3 little fuses on the board but once I saw the bad resistor we knew it was the board. This thing really cranks now, the water is churning.

So my cleaner stopped working at the 11th month of a 1 year warranty. Emailed Vevor and they immediately replied and connected me up to the Chinese manufacturer. They said send a video showing what's up. I did. They very quickly asked if I could pull the bottom off and look at the circuit board and take a pic. They sent a video of how to disassemble. I looked and saw a resistor was damaged. Sent a pic. They said send a pic of the part number on the board. They said a new board is on its way shortly. 2 days later they send tracking number. 2 days later at 9:30am DSL delivers it, from China. It looks updated with a fan on it. Popped it in and bingo, all good. Wow!

I have deflated it and push and hold the bead down and in across from where the bead wasn't seating up as you reinflate.

Both my 2 1976 RD400s have a serial number 1A1-00****   

Looks like maybe the ports could have been chamfered a bit more but I would worry about that little bit of scuffing.
Edit: wouldn't worry, looks real light