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Gonna need some rubber fatigue isolation in those rear brackets, but they look like they are plenty adaptable.

I might take you up on that. But still trying to find an electrical smoking gun because of the shut down situation.

Correctly repositioned the new coil, in process of running another ground, etc.

Thanks!

Since the initial problem, plugs have been changed twice. Mark popped in some B9's and then I've tried B9EIX. These have been pre-gapped according to the middle of the RD400 range. Haven't tried to narrow the gap.
Every time the highway failure has happened, it has been very sketchy. No shoulder/busy road at night or interstate with orange barrels narrowing the the shoulder. It's hard to be excited about trying that out again.

I did measure them to compare with higher quality calipers.
They were really close to each other at the tip, midway and near the top, plus overall length.

That still doesn't explain why I'm running the highway or interstate in the good rpm range and it slowly winds down to a crawl or completely stops

If it does come to a stop, it will kick back to life like nothing happened. This behavior started the bowls-running-dry theory that has been disproven and appears electrical in nature.

Toomey pipes and Toomey jetting. Really ran fine until about May.

RD400 carbs:

I'm with you, Mark. Just one thing blocking me - besides the dollars: I would be hating life if I got new carbs, or a splitter cable so you could help, and then find out that's not the problem. Thus possible wasting your time (again). If someone has a loaner set of known good RZ stockers, that might be a thing as well.

Still haunted by the possibility that the on-highway random shut downs are related to this problem and it's not lack of fuel feed. There's a teachable moment there, but I'm a retarded student.

Gonna run an extra ground pipeline today and I have determined that the original coil mount that I copied with the new one was needing to be turned. I have no hope that this will change anything. Just makes me feel better 

Thank you for hanging in with this thread, Automan. The pipes are Toomeys and were the bomb back in the day. Finding an RZ with factory pipes is not very desirable and it would also be very rare.

Yeah, don't read the whole thing. Time is too precious. You won't get it back.
Maybe read the 1st post and then know that the stator and control electronics are all new now, carbs & YPVS checked out good but it's still exactly the same.

Ran perfect in the 40 degree crisp air.

It's already a handful. Must have been a missile at 40 degrees.

The only engine ground I can see is the black wire off the stator.
Should there be another or an additional one to put in place for the RZ?

The green pickup wire goes direct (and already did) to the Zeel unit without disappearing into the harness somewhere. I was hoping I'd find something there.

Wondering if there's such a thing as RF getting introduced into the ignition system by way of harness proximity to the new spark plug wires, thick rubber covering and all.

Next move would be a chat with John at Economy for a complete harness to patch in or stainless braided sheath.

The black cube in the photo modulates flatulence output.

Having snooped a little in internet photos, it looks like it's the sidestand control unit. That runs down into a shared plug to the stator and neutral switch.
It is, after all, hard to flatulate whilst sitting on a motorcycle seat.

I'm turning over thoughts of trying resistor plugs along with the resistor caps already in place.
Also, the foil thing on pickup wires, though the prob was was previous to the Zeel and stator replacements. Rick's Stator put a new glossy black sheath over most of those pick up wires.

None of that agrees with, "It was running fine when parked, and the next run was a disaster."

However, going through to eliminate sometimes forces a discovery.

The latest wiring bypasses, coil ground and coil orange wire have been run direct. Brown positive from fuse box inspected and ohm'd. Looks fine. Checked other browns coming out of the fuse box. They are solidly soldered together as the schematic dictates. As of today, it still runs the same.

I only see that I could trace the brown wire that goes to the regulator/rectifier and the ignition switch plug to either bypass or look for a smoking gun (iggy switch being new now).

Should I replace the reg/rectifier so as to continue this journey of great success?

Otherwise, yes, buy a harness and start working it in. The bike will do its retarded stumbling at the lower rpm, then I open the throttle wide open out of spite and it will start to catch, pop and falter back into its abysmal malaise. Really did run well previously. Then I parked it one day and rode it later to find this issue.

The entire ignition system is self-isolated because of replaced parts except for that brown wire pathway to the regulator - to the best of my knowledge. Rick's stator said my original tested good and I probably have a good removed YPVS box and 52Y CDI box.

Hoping the regulator/rectifier would be the prob. That would affect voltage to the Zeel, among other things.
Since I was in the headlight bucket and feeding a new ignition switch plug in, I put my spare Auxito LED bulb in the headlight. The YPVS cycling is faster now without the halogen bulb sucking down the voltage when you turn on the key. Still no improvement, though.

Teazer, I feel bad that you wasted so much time that you will never get back by reading the whole thread.
It really ran well before this and when even when it hits the pipes now, it's just fantastic.

I'm somewhat confused and possibly a bit stupid. Isn't that the power valve controller in the center of the picture? Do you have a Zeel controller (VCDI10VT)?  Why are you using the oem power valve controller? 

The original power valve controller was still good (located much further back when it was previously in). Yes, that PV control is also built into the Zeel I got from John at Economy Cycle. He very conveniently had it in stock. That black cube in the photo is, uh... I don't know. Red and black wires are the new overly fat coil wires. The new coil from Yambits with the "H" on it didn't help.