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Emailed the files to you 

Thanks Russ!

Russ,
I think I have what you're looking for. Check your PMs. I can email it to you.

Will do.

Thank you very much.

@rideitfast- That is not the same one I used before, put it will work.

Thanks

@Bryan H- Thanks for the link.  I am not a member so I can't see/access it. I will consider joining if needed.

Thanks again

I haven't been able to locate a link.     It showed the step by step procedures with pictures and text to put an rd350 motor back together.

I used it once before to help me with my rd400 motor. Pictures were way better then the manual.  I believe it was a guy out of the UK.  It wasn't a video. 

Thanks

I got mine today!  Actually, it's for my older brother.

Thanks Mark!

Got it.

Thank you gentlemen.


I will be fixing it again (third times the charm), before I run it.

Update:

I resealed and had no leakage.  Last time it leaked immediately. Installed the carbs with the Dynojet jet kit ( thanks Ken for your video on the jet kit).  The bike ran really well. Came home after it's first run and sure enough it was leaking from the same location. 

I guess I did not put enough Motoseal permetex gasket maker.  I was worried that I was going to put to much.  A timely mistake.

So, I am not planning on disassembly for a few weeks.  The leak is pretty minimal.  Maybe 10-15 ml (less then a half ounce) since I road it this past week. 

I am considering riding it a little prior to the disassembly again.  I am thinking it will not be a problem if there is enough coolant and the temperature is OK? 

Any thoughts?

Xl style 1 grey please.


Will be sending PayPal shortly.

Thanks

Very nice work.

What methods did you use to get the front forks to look so nice? 

Also, how did you clean the wheels before painting?

Thanks!

When you press it out, check the shape of the O ring groove. It should be a square cross section to allow the round ring to deflect (squish) into the space and allow it to seal.  if the groove is round it won't seal.  Banshee inserts are usually machined correctly.

Yep, it has a square cross section. 

Thanks

Finally had some time to work on the bike.

 I decided to sandwich the head between two pieces of wood and push the boss out with a jack.  It worked.

It appears that the sealant did not cover the entire perimeter of the top part of the boss, thus the leak.

I will be cleaning it up and using Motoseal to seal it. 

I have TZ heads with inserts and GT750 head with inserts (domes) and sealing them can be problematic. TZ is easy because it doesn't need a head gasket - just O rings.  the GT is a different story and it uses an oversized gasket that the insert fits through and seals with o rings.  best solution is BDK in the UK who do all O rings.

The second source of leaks is the same issue as here, sealing the insert against the shell of the head.  Stock heads rarely have sufficient material to seal effectively with an O ring round the dome, like that Banshee dome.  That's how Polaris and others used to seal their sled heads. And there's barely enough material to seal on teh top face of the insert against that flat surface, but that's all you have.

The reason they are a press fit in the head is probably to try to seal the head to the cylinder. They should not need to be a press fit in the head shell. Can you tell us what sort of head gasket you are using and what does the top of that insert look like?

No head gasket.  I used Permatex Motoseal gasket maker.  I looked at the head surface after taking it off.  The seal or sealant looked got and no signs of leaking.  It was just the top of the boss where it inserts in the head. 

I did notice that the other boss insert that is not leaking has what looks like sealant around the top of the insert where the plug screws in.  The one that is leaking doesn't have any signs of sealant.  I guess I will find out when I get it out.

I don't have any pictures of the top of the boss insert.  The pictures I sent at he beginning of this thread might give you a better idea of what it looks like.

Thanks

How about flipping it over and pressing it out from the other side?

That was my initial thought.  However, the bottom diameter of the boss is much greater and it is flush/even with the head.  I haven't been able to figure out a way yet. 

I have figured out that I can use a c-clamp to push it back in.

I am thinking of using a bearing puller set up to pull the aluminum boss out for resealing.  See pictures below.

The adapter screws into the spark plug threads.  It tightens up well when I expand it.  I am extremely worried that when I start slowly pulling on it, that it is going to strip the spark plug threads.  I am really good at f**king things up. 

Any thoughts?

Thanks

That mod started on banshee heads so that guys could run different cc domes and 4 mil cranks and still keep the motor looking completely stock. Now stealth coolheads that look just like stockers are available that have orings to seal so you dont really see stock heads being cut up anymore.
There are a lot less choices for RZ's though. Wicked and the place in Spain are the only ones Ive seen lately.

Thanks for the information.  I may have to look into Wicked.