hey guys i need a little help here on my pilot jetting.
this is my rd400g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fpOQJUjanM
she's on her final stages of tuning after a complete rebuild that took almost 5 years.
info on the bike:
-altitude 5250 feet
-2r9 carbs
-stock airbox
-squish band on 3j7 heads fixed by chuck quenzler
-crank rebuild by chuck quenzler
the bike starts first kick with the "choke" from cold.
i synched the carbs as per the manual suggests.
set the idle at 1400ish rpm.
i have been learning about this mikuni carbs, but still learning.
i have been fiddling with the airscrew:
When i close the airscrew totally once warm the bike does not die (should it die?). and it seems to be working better at 0.5 turns out than the 1.5 out its supposed to run.
when i open the screw 3.5 turns out, there is a change and the bike seems to get worse when out, but the difference is only noticed when I give her some throttle, not idleing.
On all positions of the airscrew (0.5 , 1.5 and 3.5 turns out) the bike returns to idle in the same manner. not faster not slower once revved. probably better when 0.5 out like the video.
in the video the airscrew is set at 0.5 turns out from fully closed which is the one i think works better.
When i quickly open the throttle, there is a little hesitation on the bike to get from 1400 rpms to 2000 rpms. what i try to say is it does not feel linear.
my main question here is following what I have read on other posts..... should i go from 27.5 pilot to a 30 pilot?
or this means i should try a 25 pilot?
this is my rd400g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fpOQJUjanM
she's on her final stages of tuning after a complete rebuild that took almost 5 years.
info on the bike:
-altitude 5250 feet
-2r9 carbs
- 27.5 pilot jet
- 150 main jat
- keyster 5j6 needle (i have the original 5j6 needles but one has lost the anodizing, had to order the closest thing which was a rebuild kit from keyster that has the 5j6 needles from yambits, but they are a little different from the original mikuni, so had to change them both.
-stock airbox
-squish band on 3j7 heads fixed by chuck quenzler
-crank rebuild by chuck quenzler
the bike starts first kick with the "choke" from cold.
i synched the carbs as per the manual suggests.
set the idle at 1400ish rpm.
i have been learning about this mikuni carbs, but still learning.
i have been fiddling with the airscrew:
When i close the airscrew totally once warm the bike does not die (should it die?). and it seems to be working better at 0.5 turns out than the 1.5 out its supposed to run.
when i open the screw 3.5 turns out, there is a change and the bike seems to get worse when out, but the difference is only noticed when I give her some throttle, not idleing.
On all positions of the airscrew (0.5 , 1.5 and 3.5 turns out) the bike returns to idle in the same manner. not faster not slower once revved. probably better when 0.5 out like the video.
in the video the airscrew is set at 0.5 turns out from fully closed which is the one i think works better.
When i quickly open the throttle, there is a little hesitation on the bike to get from 1400 rpms to 2000 rpms. what i try to say is it does not feel linear.
my main question here is following what I have read on other posts..... should i go from 27.5 pilot to a 30 pilot?
or this means i should try a 25 pilot?