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I am having fueling issues.  Bike will not start.  Petcock flow tested fine.  A tad of fuel into the plug holes and it fires right up, but doesn't keep running.
I have suspected float issues for some time, I replaced the float valve with Viton last season.
Question I have, is this the corr3ct installation and orientation for this type of valve?  My old ones didn't have any little clip on them.  Can I run without these clips?

I bought a set of used polished Mistrals for my 4 stroke. 

They aren't exactly the mirror finish I expected, but I am not sure if that's the way they come from the factory or they need some re-doing.

Anyone have advice for polishing stainless?  I've only ever done aluminum.  I know it's hard to see in pictures....

I've sat it out for several years as it seemed to be on a decline.  Somehow it's exploded to be THE summer event.

I've got a green light for it, already reserved a van rental.

Anyone else considering?  I've always had a blast there.

https://vintagemotorcycledays.com

I ordered a new set of plugs for the R5, fully aware that there may be counterfeit plugs out there.

I browsed EBay, saw some that looked very underpriced, so I passed.  I chose a middle of the road price ($21 a pair to the door) from a large seller.

Interestingly, they arrived with this 'scan me' label on them.  I actually did scan it, and it took me to the sellers site with a claim that they a legitimate NGK seller blah blah blah.

Anyone get caught up with fakes, and know how to spot them?

I found my key in the "on" position and the bike with a dead battery.

The battery took a charge, but we have no start.  My Irridiums are now black and oily, but I do see spark.

Awaiting new BR8EIX's in the mail.

Question is can/do Dynas burn out when left powered on?

We also had a glorious weekend in NJ.  I had the whole family down, and my five year old granddaughter asked to take a ride.  She's pretty fearless.
I gave her the choice:  Fast bike or Slow bike.  She chose the slow bike.  We had a blast zipping around town together on the 200.

Google Photos reminded me today that it's been 16 years since I started tearing down the R5 I rescued from a basement.   It's still with me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225728539760?hash=item348e782c70:g:d00AAOSwMQ5k207o&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwCSd9Sq7dg87EtvqVr8z6B7EiPh3QPjs%2FvGe8m8Up24dqF0Q%2FmMKziBXDk0PTPdZTZkCd8rJC7j1LvugqHfZGLeAx2JLT4iJgLlx2fFmrdkdiNRaMtkyx%2Br1C3XKem%2BF9rNJGJRBesVtlMclkL3ekSd39Y2r4vD7tkWuCHreqSfYuDhA0N%2FoBGKy4fVbwZckQ%2FUU1rBkNdQ5Mek%2FO5QVKxnrrvmj9mWoTmwvdwgUhR%2Frr4M3nZcdYastH6FHS0mI4A%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8qSjcnCYg

Corki framed special...

Someone should rescue these.  A pair of 1970's in Las Vegas.  $2000.


I would love a set of 1970 tins.

This is my reminder/recommendation to ALL vintage bike owners to assure that you have sufficient ACTUAL VALUE insurance on your bikes.

It saved my A$$ when I lost all my stuff in a hurricane/flood.  I had just enough insurance on the R5 to keep it and send it out for rebuilding.  I was very lucky in that regard.  The coverage is CHEAP.

I just got this from my vintage carrier, which triggered this post:


It CAN happen to you.
Two (sadly) to the SCRAP YARD:


One to the Restoration Shop:

I stripped the barbecue paint off my Milleniums yesterday for a repaint. 

I used Xylene, which worked great on the bodies but the paint on the head pipes was extremely difficult to remove.  I assume it's because it's super cured from the heat.

These pipes were ceramic coated when brand new, but that didn't really hold up visually after a few years.

There is an upside, I found the rear mounting tab on one pipe is ripping, so it's off to the welder for a quick repair.  Glad I found it now...







This is when they were brand new in 2016 just after ceramic coating....(PipePornAlert)

Cleaning the garage today and found a new box of these NGK's.  I can't find much of any information on them.

I normally run Irridium BR8EIX or in the past, B8ES in the R5 with 3/4" reach heads.

Anyone know about these "Racing Competition" line of plugs?  I may try a pair in the spring, BEFORE I need plugs.  They are removable tip.

Thanks

I was rooting through my box of gauges to see if I was running my "best" ones.
I realize that although all mine in the box have straight shafts, there are several differences.

Speedo:  I have both "120" mph and "100" mph.  Which is right for the R5?

Tachs:  All are 8k redline and 10k max.  However the fonts are visibly different.  I notice that one style has "Nippon Seiki Japan" across the bottom and the other doesn't.

Anyone know what's what?

I have my R5 tach off to fix a whirling noise and it struck me that I could retrofit some LEDs in the gauges.

The R5 has BA9/1893 incandescents in them now.  They appear to be rated at 4-5 watts each.  The LED equivalents pull under .7 watts.  In theory, replacing all the bulbs in the gauges would save me at least 20 watts. 

I am not particularly starved for watts as far as I know, I am already running LED in the headlight and taillight.

Has anyone put LED's in there and were the results worth it?  A 10pack of LED equivalents are cheap, like under $15.

Existing bulb:

Soliciting thoughts about installing new overlays on the RD200 gauges. 
- Anyone used Diablo Cycles faces?
- Opinions on how much 'originality' is taken when doing dress up like this - I have no interest in 'restoring' this bike. 
- As of right now I can spot two non original things on this bike, if that helps guide opinions.
        The taillight bracket is painted black and I don't see any US bikes that had that from the factory.
         There are gators on the forks.  They look good, and after peeking behind them they are hiding
          tarnished/pitted stanchions so I don't intend to remove them.

These are my gauges:


These are what Diablo offers.  They do appear correct for my gauges:

I was detailing the 76 RD200 French Blue today.  The paint is all original and looks good, but I can't fully remove some haze off the tank.  I sense that there's beauty under there but need suggestions on how (if I should even try) to bring it out. 

In my 8 years of ownership I have always used Collinite 845 Insulator wax.  From my eye it looks like that wax may be sitting on the top of the finish and maybe is on too thick or too many coats.

I tried some 'gentler' cleaning, denatured alcohol doesn't seem to cut it.  Also tried a bit of ammonia based cleaned on a cloth.   Whatever I have isn't really doing it.

FYI this year tank has a sticker for graphics and they are in great shape.  It's just the visible paint I would like to get the best out of.

Should I consider a fine cutting polish.  What have others safely done with 70's era Yamaha factory paint?

Thanks
The pics were taken under pretty bright daylight LED and seem to really show it worse than it really is...

I rolled the RD200 back into the garage for winter repairs.

I had a tip over and the bike fell hard on the RR turn signal stalk.  Thankfully there was no body damage etc. 

Now I need to bend the turn signal mount back into shape to install a new stalk.

I need to remove the seat and fender to get a good grip on it.  I am planning to heat with a propane flame and attempt to bend back with a pair of vice grips.  It will cost me the frame paint (which can be touched up since it's fairly hidden) but I don't see other options. 

Opinions wanted.  Is propane hot enough to get some pliability on this?

Good side unbent tab:


Bad side:


Replacement parts:


Bad Side looking down:


Mock up to show how much it's off:


Planning to grab with vice grips once the fender is removed:

I've known since doing a preflight for the Gap that my shifter side lever was due for for a good looking at.

These are Doug's last generation rearsets with bearings inserted in both the shift and brake lever shafts.

I took them apart yesterday and threw them in the sonic.  Today I pulled all the remnants - and I mean remnants- of the bearings from the raceways.  Both shifter side bearings are shredded and one on the brake side.

This is how the bearings sit, two 4mm thick bearings side by side in the race:


Remnants of old bearings.  One of four intact:



I can easily source the 10x15x4mm bearings but I'm thinking there may be better options.

For one, how about using a single 10mm thick bearing inside the race by drilling out the "stopper" inside?  Would that be any stronger/better? 

Anyone else made improvements to these?  I'm not shopping new ones, I like these fine.  Straight replacement bearings are only $2 each.

I'm also thinking that these bearings aren't the best for getting pinched between washers, as is required here to set the right spacing when mounting the levers.  Any suggestions welcome.

I did a glorious Tiddler Tour on the RD200 yesterday through rural Connecticut.  It was organized by a Guzzi guy from Wild Guzzi.  I ended up at the 100 mile mark with the ride in and ride home.  (My daughter lives 15 miles from the starting point so I went up for the weekend).  Fantastic weather, great turn out of interesting iron young and old, big and small.

Remarkably there was one pair of doubles.  A woman showed up on a 72 Rd200, making two in the pack.  In another coincidence, she had the feminine version of my name.  Edwin and Edwina...

I hated my current helmet that I had to buy in the pandemic - no hands on browsing but I had to replace my worn out Shoei RF1100. 

I sprang for the current Shoei RF1400 today.  I tried a bunch of helmets at a Cycle Gear, limiting my upper spending limit to 550ish.  There were plenty of helmets that were higher cost, which I ignored and tons of low cost options.  None of the lower cost helmets, Simpson, Bell, HJC, Sidici, Bilt etc were as comfortable so I swallowed and bought. 

Bonus is the color is a fair match to my new Guzzi and my French Blue RD200...