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I'm done riding, make an offer! There's another one that can go also; not as nice but runs good.
https://carbondale.craigslist.org/mcy/d/carterville-1971-r5-350/7458793865.html

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcd/d/appleton-saturday-harley-honda-kawasaki/7430414602.html
Something for everyone!

Having barely survived a crash August sixth,  I've lately been wondering how others deal with the recovery process. I've got two permanent eight  or ten inch screws  and one six  incher that held my pelvis together while it grew back into one piece. My twelve formerly broken ribs, six fractured vertebrae,  perforated bowel and lacerated liver, one punctured and two collapsed lungs and forever missing spleen don't bother me as much as the ichy road scars on my left side and my recently noticed very tender zyphoid process. Helmet saved my brain and maybe my life. Spleen is gone. Something ripped my groin open about four inches from the family jewels, so that was a close one! Back to my normal weight and nearly fully mobile  again after all the laying around for eight weeks.  Rode the four wheeler last week, kick start only.
Since I have a few people around who love me, I'm kicking the two wheeled motorized riding habit for now.  I've been a gambler my whole life, and I know when to fold. 
If perhaps I do decide to get back on, my main concern is what happens if I land on my ass again? Do all those screws just tear out and leave a bigger mess than a regular person would be left with? I'm sure they'd let me know of they're presence somehow.
How have you dealt with serious injuries, loved ones, the desire to ride and mortality after an unplanned dismount when your need for speed returns?

How does one know when to change from B8HS to B9HS on an R5?  Was running great with stock heads and Spec II Classics on 32.5 pilot, third clip on stock needle and 170 main. Got the heads worked, upped jets to 175 and went up to b9 plug and it's not as fast, with less noticeable power band at 7k. Plugs are dark.  Doesn't a flatter squish band need more gas?

Seems like the old trusty Craftsman timing light has gone on an adventure without me.   What are the brands you've bought lately that work for longer than the warranty?

  I don't remember if I put the polished and cc'd heads on this bike I'm working on, or the other one, and a plug hole has stripped while cleaning and checking plugs.  The stripped head looks like some other spares I have in that there are small casting imperfections and the dome is not very shiny.
  What have people noticed about running a set of heads on an R5 where one head of a matched set needs a repair, and is replaced with one that is unchanged from its factory condition?   Stuff like how it runs and if stuff will go wrong?
I get that the compression and squish bands will be different.  Will there be required jetting variance?  What else?   
If the volume is close to the same, is that ok?  How much difference in volume is acceptable?

Basically, I'm hoping for some insight into what can happen if an engine is run, and bike is ridden with two heads that are of different internal volume and combustion characteristics.  Asking for  a friend.
Not a race bike, but I will flog it 

What's your favorite lube for the points cam on ignitions without the felt pads for oil?

Is the bolt that holds the points cam on a stock R5 ignition supposed to be magnetic?

Is it just me, or do the vintage smoke sets challenge anyone else when shifting?

What a can of worms!  Aftermarket harness, known working ignition assembly, 11 volts or more at brown wires to coils, two different sets of coils, plugs and wires all verified to run the left side.
Got the left side running after a full teardown and rebuild, switched coils wires and plugs from side to side. Same, then right side kicks in and left out, then back to left like someone flipped a switch.  Left side was running, messed with coils then right side ran, then switched to left again by itself.    No obvious shorts or bad connections so far.  Haven't cut into the harness sheath for an inspection yet. Everything looks good in the bucket, and all the lights and horn work fine.  Reg wires came out of plug so waiting for battery to charge then back at it with tester. 
Lemme make sure I got this right:  Juice comes from the brown wires to the black (emgo) or brown (oem) wires on coils. Leaves the coils through the yellow (emgo) to orange and grey wires, orange to the left cyl, grey to right. Points open, field collapses, juice to plug and ground.  Bang! The condenser absorbs the electrical shockwave to prevent arcing across points.   Right?
Must be a short somewhere in the harness between the ignition plate and coils, no?   

Are the connectors on the leads reversed for the r5\rd harness connections? Is it supposed to be brown from harness to black and yellow to points? 

While chasing a one cylinder no spark condition I was checking the points contacts with a multimeter and discovered that there is a connection even when open on one set of breakers and not on the other set.  So, I checked my other R5 that runs fine and it's the same.  Go back to the Decaf and now both sets of breakers maintain continuity open or closed. Why? Is it because of the ground in the cylinder through the plug?  Still runs on left side only.  I can see some random arcs on the grey wire points while the bike struggles on the one cylinder.  My next move is to try a different plug wire and cap.
Both contacts on all four coils (both bikes) beep to ground.  Is that normal? Why?

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/mpo/d/maryland-heights-kikker-5150-bonesaw/7299453572.html

Is there a specific torque recommended for the big nut on the hollow carrier bolt where the rear axle goes through the assembly?  I usually go pretty tight on those types of things; just until the wheel rotation starts to be impeded, then off a little.  Found a value of 86-120 for the smaller axle nut, but nothing on the big one.  How tight are your nuts?

The plastic spacers where the bolt goes through the mounting bracket on the rearset are cracked and one nearly disintegrated when I tried to prep it for repair.  Do the mounting points have to float a little or can I just use washers that fill the gaps and mount that side's pipe rigidly?
  I imagine there will be a lot of vibration in the footpeg, but will it be enough to crack stuff?  I'm pretty good with a razor and plastic, but I already ground some flat edges on a couple washers and am just wondering what the worst case scenario might be if I go with those.  Anybody done this?

Might be worth a shot if someone has the parts laying around.  I can check it out.https://carbondale.craigslist.org/mcy/d/pittsburg-1975-yamaha-enduro-175-cc/7295935071.html

will other motors like an rd250\350 or R5 bolt into these frames with no mods?
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/d/saint-louis-1975-yamaha-rd200-electric/7291761478.html

Do any of you put threadlocker on any fasteners under the clutch cover? Pressure plate screws, primary nut, clutch boss nut?

Why is there a spacer behind the drive sprocket in the manual for R5's, but not in the parts diagrams? It looks like felt and appears to be there to take up some space by creating a cushiony type backing for the sprocket, but still let it be tight.
The nut torques down against the shaft at the bottom of the threads and the sprocket still wiggles slightly.  My old honda has some play there also, but more of a back and forth along the direction of travel.  What's up with that?  Seems sloppy and prone to exacerbate wear.
I asked about it here before and people said they'd never seen one, or, didn't use, don't worry, etc.  I'm wondering what happened between the manual, assembly, maintenance, and experiences related to the wiggling.  It's just around a mm or so of play.
Any body ever improvise and make a spacer out of felt or something similar?

Anybody ever assembled cases in a shop that goes below freezing when not heated? Forecast is for near zero F.  What could go wrong?   
I'd rather not carry the assembly from the house to shed since I might slip on the ice and drop it, plus the lighting and obvious convenience of being where all the tools already are.  Will expansion of different materials in cases and seals be an issue?