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Interesting build, I guess.

https://www.facebook.com/1554794617/videos/843829377504722/

https://www.facebook.com/stories/108829421421845/UzpfSVNDOjExOTM2Mjc1NzgyODA2NTc=/?view_single=1&source=shared_permalink&mibextid=XUfhQ2

Not sure if this will be accessible.

https://www.facebook.com/stories/108829421421845/UzpfSVNDOjYzNTgxMzU2OTQyODk4Njk=/?view_single=1&source=shared_permalink&mibextid=XUfhQ2

Built the beast, then my young son wanted a tank bike, I have one as well not pictured. So, we stripped an old 50's huffy convertible bike I found on CL. Traded a guy an old frame I had for it and went to town. I showed my son parts, he picked them out. At first, he wanted it plain ol metal so all I did was coat it with Gibbs. Then he wanted it painted the color you see it now. He luved that bike, rode it to school even though he had a dirt bike, friends luved it too. Then he grew out of it, posted on CL. A woman showed it her son who luved it too., She got on bus, came to house, bought it, and rode it off. LOL, she was a tad too big, but it didn't stop her riding it home. Wish I had a pic of that. Offered to drive her, nope.

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In an attempt to rekey the tank to match the ignition, which by the way did not work. The spring that causes the lock to spring back once key is turned ended up somewhere in my garage as it flew off. Does anyone know where to get one of these without buying an entire assembly? Rd ones are expensive as heck, maybe another path?
Thx.

Unseasonable weather here in Chicago as it's been in the high 60's all week, but tomorrow the bottom starts to drop out. Took the ol girl out for a last cruise, running too rich, but didn't want to remove carbs, again, so I lived with it for a few months. Going to remove carb for the winter, jet down and drain tank. Now, last year I sprayed the inside of the tank with wd-40 and that seemed to work pretty well, but if anyone has any better ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks again everyone for helping me get this back on the road, especially Mark. It was super fun and I learned tons.

75 with rear drum. This will probably be a dumb question but are these really needed? I'm moving to a cable setup, hopefully, and trying to figure out where to place the switch. I have a few ideas. I see a bunch of old rd's, no tabs, rear sets, etc. and no rear brake switch. Are people just relying on the fact that the front brake is used most, and not connecting the rear?

After my initial run, the chain was pretty loose after. Adjusted chain, but not sure what I should torque the nuts to. There are two, one I think is called the sprocket nut, its the big ass nut closest to the frame. I barely had to loosen that one. Then there is one on the outside (spindle nut) which has the cotter pin.
Thx

Is that a vent of some sort, if so, do they make these little elbows?
Float bowls-are they the same besides the different vent on the bottom? The pix is of the inside of the choke bowl.
Thx

When I re-timed the bike, I figured I should find out what sprockets I have, teeth number wise. So, this bike has 16 39 which seems somewhat of an oddball size based on my searches? Is this okay for street driving, doubt this will see freeway action, lots of stop and go.
Thx.

I can't tell you how stoked I am. But we have some issues.
First, some knucklehead installed the rear sets/pegs (me) in such a way that I can barely kick it. So, I used my arm, fired in 4 pushes.
Main issue, tach was all over the place for a bit which is weird since it's well, mechanical and I did not have this issue before I tore into it. Once I shut it off tach needle stayed at 2000.It finally settled down, some, not sure if it happens again, guessing yes. I can tap the glass and it will go to zero, so I'm not even sure I can trust the readings. I took it apart months ago and cleaned the glass, i guess it could be that????
I cannot get it to idle under 2200, that is if the tach is correct. Unscrewed idle screws so they do not touch slides at all, it decreased, but it was at 2400 before. Is this a slide issue, do I need to try and adjust slides down using cable if possible. Or should I hold off until I figure out tach? By the way, any idea what i should do about tach?

By the way, the pipes sound great, so much better than those frickn power pipes. And, compared to that blendzall, it barely smokes. That blendzall smoked out my garage to all hell and back.
Thanks all.

Yeah, I can be a tad weird at times. Okay, so I have changed a ton of oil in cars, and I know oil made for cars is way different than 2 stroke oil. I was also a tree climber for a number of years way back when, so I have plenty of experience with 2 stroke oil, per say. And when I'm referring to smell, I'm talking out of the bottle. Car oil, well it smells pretty much the same, but 2 stroke oil, I mean each has their own recipe it seems. The bike I have ran on Blendzall, and I was going to keep running it until I read Chucks post, at least I think it was Chuck. Bike came with 2 gallons of it and that stuff smells like good old ol school 2 stroke oil. I also have Motul 710, talk about a crazy over engineer cap. That stuff smells way different than Blendzall, but in a bad way. And now we come to HP2. First, it's cobalt blue, wtf? I ran Kendal 20-50 racing oil in a car I have years ago and that stuff was green, but this stuff is crazy blue. And the smell, holy heck, its smells weird as hell, but I kind of like it, so that's going in the tank first.
Okay I'm done. Time to see if I can fire this thing up.

I went to install the Dogster exhaust, and my questions is, what are the springs for? I see springs on other chambers that have the flange that attaches to the head, first. Then the chamber slides into flange and is held into place by springs. These have the flanges that look like power pipes or even stock head pipes. Granted, with the crush washers they don't tighten down so it's not a flush connection with head, so maybe that's why so it wiggles, some?
Thx.

Or has their site crashed, been down for a few days now?

My lord must have never been changed before. Hard as rock.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/155948950570322/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Like the title states, time to move onto carbs. Bear with me as I have never pulled these apart and thank god I did, one pilot jet had a weird powdery substance on it and was clogged. But the other parts of the carbs look pretty clean. I'll keep this thread going if I have more questions, so I don't create all sorts of different threads.
The bike is still in pieces but getting close.
Here's what I know about the bike that might affect carbs....
This bike was located in Arizona, now Chicago, not sure if this will affect jets, etc. The person I bought it from originally lived in Washington, no idea if the setup was done in Arizona or not. I rode the bike a few times in December here in Chicago, so it was cold. Ran pretty well, but I really didn't get to put it through any paces as the weather turned to hell.

Ignition: Has one of Mark's wasted spark ignitions. As I noted on another thread, one side on the cutout was a lot thinner so I cut it to match the other. Was told it was timed at 2.0. The first thing I will do if and when I get it running will be to check this with a strobe and set to 1.8 if need be..

Ran pre-mix at 32:1, I might increase ratio some, like maybe 40:1, thoughts? This will not change. What I mean is that it will run pre-mix based on what I have done to the bike. No more side covers, etc.
Banshee 350 intake manifolds w/ dog ears cut off. I really have no idea what is meant by cutting off dog ears, it's what was stated when I bought bike.
RZ350 crossover tube.
Top end was rebuilt 200 miles ago with forged pistons.
I pressure tested bike, no leaks anywhere-thank god.
Bike used to have old JR power pipes, now has Dogsters. Guessing this might affect jetting.
Has a Y boot that ran into a K&N filter. I had to remove the tall K&N and move to a shorter UNI foam filter because of new seat. Not sure if this will affect jetting or not?
Jetting/carb info:
Carbs are high top vm28's.
I checked float bowls, both set at 15mm.
Has Dave f/dale mods. 2mm air jet, with jet needle cut down.
Slides: 2.5
Pilots: 30
Mains: 220
Needles: 169-P2, clip in the middle
Jet needle: 5DP7, I think these are also called, Emulsion tubes?
When I got bike, slide/idle stop/adjuster was set to 7 turns out
Air/fuel, 1.25 turns out.
Do I need to change any of the jets/etc as a starting point with the small changes I made or slap it back together and see how she does? I have them apart and soaking in cleaner right now.
Thx again.

Edit: Looks like we lost a few days of data. I'll run them like this and test.

Went to install new shocks and of course they don't fit. Posting pix of mount and old shock. Can someone point to where I might find bushings that would fit, guessing they are 14mm? All I'm finding are ones shipped from china.
Thx much!

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5981723558622255&set=pcb.1391497034976202

I mentioned in a thread a while back that I have a bike that has this old ignition on it. My plans are to upgrade the ignition after the summer, just want to just make sure this is working properly. I found some old threads (2010) from another board where the person who built this went over his install. I can post that thread if need be. He mentions that he thought the pie cuts were too small and that Mark told him he might want to cut them open more. That leads me to my first question, and since this is Marks design, i guess these will be put forth to you... The pie cuts.. It's obvious that one is bigger than the other, is there a reason for that, and are they too small?
Mark, in another thread you showed that you produced a bunch of the "pie cut" devices, have any left? Or do I even need to go that route?
Many more questions to come, as usual.