Topics

Time to refresh my 25 year old Sidi Verti 2 boots. Bought the same make and model. I guess these things held up very well. I did replace the soles 10 years ago. The Velcro on the flaps kind of wore out. One of the plastic heel protecters came off. The pad for shifting gave out. Leather is showing some weathering. These things really protect your feet and ankles. They are very comfortable too. $329. Made in Romania.

The last few times I was out on my RD400 I noticed noises that were not normal as I came to a stop and it was idling. The first time, I'm like the piston is knocking? How, why, they were fresh oem pistons and the bores were fresh. The next time, no, that sounds like the clutch rattling. Why, how, there was nothing wrong with it when I had it apart, it even has those rubber o rings in the plates. I pulled the lever in, and the sound didn't change at all. Well, the last time out I decided I had to pull the clutch cover and inspect. Everything looked fine. Then I noticed the frame rail, The freaking motor is lying on the frame rail and trying to saw through it! The rubber motor mounts are shot. All good now, whisper quiet. There isn't much clearance down there and the 400 motor likes to wiggle around with the rubber mounts. Just a heads up, it sure made sounds that were very concerning. Pics of the frame rail and clutch cover.

I had my stock 400 on the interstate for about 80 miles yesterday. Indicated speeds 65-80 (I know it reads 5mph high). 4500-5500 rpm. Stock everything, gearing, air box, filter and carbs except a 120 main. Whole trip was 115 miles. 25 mpg and blew through 1/2 tank of oil. Couldn't make the 115 miles without a stop for fuel. It's funny the service manual says they get more than double that for mileage. 

Though I'd replace my 2 year old plugs in my hot rod because it has a slight misfire at full load high RPM. Advance Auto. Total with tax $64.76 

Everything is bone stock right up to oem pistons. It sure is comfortable with the thick seat and plush suspension. Torque at 5000rpm is nice too. I think I'm going to wing it up to Americade and see what the Harley guys think at the end of the month. There is a contest for uncommon bikes.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-yamaha-rd400-6/

Progressive Insurance, $500,000 liability on my 5 bikes, $130/year total   

Exactly a year ago I bought a set of BT46's for my RZ 110 and 90 sizes, $123 and $117 each. Now the same place I bought them from they are $172 and $161 !!    I don't see where you can get Avons anymore for RDs??? Looks like you can get Shinko's and Kenda's at bargain prices. Any other ideas on tire choices for RDs?

Smooth as butter with a new one. Keep that pivot point in the lever lubed up regularly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OybfetKLFUM

More snow Monday

I normally buy a jug of VP110 to mix with non-ethanol pump gas for my modified bike. Went to the local bike shop and they didn't have any more but they had VP2+. The label says for 2 strokes and comes with oil mixed at 40:1, 105 octane, 5.9% oxygen enriched. I thought let's try this stuff straight up with a little Yamalube 2R to get the ratio at 25:1. I kick it, with the chokes on, and it starts right up and then stalls. Odd, but it has done that before, it floods. Take the chokes off, crack the throttle open, kick, vrooom, it's ready to ride. Off I go and notice it is running as smooth as can be. Get to the back roads and start to give it some juice, oh yeah, seems like more power. It never skipped a beat on a 25 mile ride and the cylinder head temps were lower than most of what I see, 285f max. On the way back I wacked it through the lower gears a few times and it does have more punch. It wants to go to 10K but I keep it at 9.5. After hitting that turkey, I got a little wimpy about the back road through the woods high speed stuff. The rest of the jug will be mixed 50:50 with pump gas with oil at 25:1. I like this bike (RD400) better than my RZ because it is more stable, corners better, stops way better, and will probably walk away from the RZ in a straight line. Thanks to John Ritter for working my cylinders, heads, and reeds, this thing runs perfect.  

This is what they sell if you order a B8ES

So, I come around the turn and out of the woods comes a whole flock of turkeys. They charge into the road all over the place. I felt like I was the bowling ball and they were the pins. The one runs a collision course right to me and pow. A slight handlebar twitch and all good. I slowed down after that.   

Just up the road from me. I wonder how it would go over if I showed up on a 2 stroker?  The RD and RZ are ready to roll. 

I have a Zeel controller on my RZ. Do I need just the cable to connect it to a laptop with the app to set it or do you need the handheld Zeel programmer?  Thanks for info.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/775614184889815/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks 

Ran the micrometer on the new cylinders and pistons.
Cylinders were within .0005" of taper and each other. Pistons were exactly the same size. Ring end gap was .009" and 3 of them and .000 on 1 of them. Piston clearance is about .003". Not really any port chamfering done. This is very odd, look at how the small transfer port is lower than the larger one. It's so low it is not open all the way when piston is at BDC. The larger tranfer is at the right stock height but the little ones are too low. The exhaust port seems a bit small, and the top is 31.5mm down, stock is 29.5mm. The wall thickness of the sleeve that sticks out the bottom is 2.75mm, an oem cylinder is 4.50mm. I think you would have trouble if you installed these without checking and adjusting a few things.

Catastrophic HPI ignition failure wipes out my new top end. I freshened up my bike with new Wossner pistons. Ran good for the first 100 miles. I noticed it was a bit cack-cack-cacky on the pilot jet so when I got home, I turned the air screws out 1/2 turn and thought next time out we will see how that goes. A few days later off I go and notice something is not right, it's either lean or it is misfiring at lower rpms. I adjust the air screws back to where they were. Try again, something still is not right, it's misfiring at low rpm. Come home and pull the plugs and they are darker than usual. Hmmm, what's up with this thing. While the plugs were out, I checked compression. It should be 140 and the left side is 120. Pulled the left side and the piston is worn and the rings are shot. WTH? I just meticulously rebuilt this thing, checked the timing with a light, all was good. It was running ok just an occasional misfire. Then I pulled the ignition cover, grey dust everywhere. Pulled the rotor and said, oh my. My HPI self-destructed, threw my timing off, and fried my new pistons. The ignition is 8 years old, I emailed HPI and they said send pictures. Waiting to hear back. Kinda pissed $350 top end got ruined. 

So, I put these rear sets on, that have a master cylinder mounted right on them, a couple years ago. Everything was going ok until a couple days ago and 3 miles from home the rear brake starts dragging. I have noticed the rear petal was always pretty firm. I kept going and it keep getting worse. Got home, just kept giving it more throttle. The rear pads were smoking. What the?? Checked if the push rod had free play, yes, but the master was bound up tight. Pulled everything apart and rebuilt the caliper. Torn down the master and it looked clean and ok. Checked if the "little hole" was clear. What the?? Let me get a good look at this. There was no little hole. I see the set screws and plugs outside the bore that are there when they make the thing to drill the 2 holes into the bore, but the little one was not finished with the small hole to the bore just ahead of the piston cup. Used a .75mm drill and Dremel. All good now with normal petal travel and release. How it didn't cause trouble earlier is beyond me. Major quality control problem. China, China, China.