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Took the tank off the RZ for lining and 2K clear coat. Not to make it pretty, but to make it hold gas fumes inside instead of bubbling up the paint in a couple spots. Also, ordered a new needle from Toomey because the left one looked a little chewed up. Installed that. Put it all together and rode around the neighborhood.

The YPVS had previously been a little off, so I got it lined up before ever taking off the tank.

While rolling on it in 1st or 2nd, it seems to bog, (or be missing a lot of torque). Then suddenly, about when the YPVS should have done it's thing and is getting out of the way, there is a sudden torque hit. I mean light switch sudden. Learned to lean over the tank just to compensate for that.

Got back to the house (twice) and the YPVS is full clockwise with the engine off. Should be at counter-clockwise "home" position. Turned the key on and instead of 2 moves turning clockwise to open and then back to home, it makes three moves and DOES find home position by itself. Both times. Seems like it should be fine. Why would something go wrong?

Then, what did I do? Maybe disturbed a wire? This was a carb and tank related exercise. Maybe #1 and #2 YPVS cables became too tight and caught up with me?

If any clues, please let me know.

Wife sent this. Probably from FBook marketplace near Charlotte NC.

Went to ride today. The RZ has to stay in the neighborhood because it's not tagged, so got a short putt around the block. The RD400 is ready for anything - except today the headlight didn't come on and that's not lawful. Only 7,700 original miles with decades of unknown history. 10A fuse was blown. Turning the switch to "ON" grounds the headlight system through the fuse box - high or low beam.

Inside the bucket looks okay and the H4 bulb is intact. The problem might be in that big umbilical that goes from the headlight bucket and runs under the tank.

Anyone know of a common problem/rub area to look for in the RD400 wiring for the headlight? Switches are in pretty good shape. They are still pretty fresh for 1977 vintage.

Yambits orders have always been about 3 working days or so to show up - which was fantastic of course.
That was when they used FedEx. Looks like they just switched to UPS and it slowed them down.
Plan ahead on around 8 working days instead of the 3 or 4.

Just saw this on Ebay.
The Torque Eng pipes are chromed with OG sticker still on



https://www.ebay.com/itm/355822357834?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pfc9vp0FRsq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7egArasDSuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Just got carb bowl screws and intake boot clamp screws from KM Carburetor on eBay.
Genuine JIS with the dot on them. Packaging is top of the line and the cool logo sticker will have to go someplace special where people know what the JIS screw heads look like and have the right screwdriver to use with them.

Ready to go into my carbs a few more times as jetting gets sorted out - yet again.

Would have been good to have a JIS screwdriver 40 years ago, (says the old fart).

Discovered some more tuning to do. The 2.5 slides with UFO's in the bottom of them were pulling more fuel. So that forced dropping the needles 1/2 step. Then too much congestion at throttle just starting to open. Opened the air jets to 3 turns out and still too much. Next step is one size down on the pilots. HOWEVER, I saw the wiring collection from the generator/ignition side had migrated back toward the chain  Doesn't look like it's touching the chain yet. No prob, I'll dig it upward and zip tie it safely before things get bad.

They already were. One white gen wire completely sawed apart. How was it running with no problem whatsoever with old style headlight bulb and a dinky alarm battery?
How can any wire in the RD400 wiring harness be open and there's no problem?

Went to raise the needles with a 1/2 step washer this evening and realized it would be wise to order fresh screws. I have JIS screwdrivers and one of the screw heads is still a little too far gone.

Those two screws that fasten the "clip" assembly that holds the needle down in the slide and also grabs the end of the throttle cables... RD400 VM28 round slide.

Looked at JetRUs, eBay, Yambits, etc.
Where can I get a set of 4?

Wonder what he did to make the wheels look that good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185675789995


EDIT: shortened link

Not normally into wee 2 strokes, but would love to have this in the protection of my garage. Didn't know about it before, but how cool!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMWAVKWliXg

Completed the job except for break in and carb re-tune.  The blue cloud upon 1st start up was the best.
Runs great, except intentionally rich right now.  Never snapped, crackled and popped at idle, but sure does now  :)
Front wheel lofts in 1st gear without effort. Will have to re-jet and see where it is after some break in.  Chuck did a careful and good looking update porting/compression-pee-hole-plug job so I could run it with good success on the stock pipes, which are still in very good shape.
Using FPP's right now.  Front wheel RD350 with drilled rotor, 'cuz lighter weight on the front is a good thing.

Looks like it runs:  https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcy/d/matthews-1972-yamaha-200-cs5-electric/6898798501.html

Surely there are some Ebay Chinese shocks that bolt on to the RD400 - that are also a decent improvement over old stockers.
Anyone have a good suggestion?

My lower back could stand a little better performance and better handling would be appreciated.

I saw retaRD's LÖLins  in the DG swingarm thread...  The light bulb came on.

Having split the cases, it appears that the bearing at the drive sprocket has been spinning.  That can't be good.  Shiny aluminum showing in the pocket and a ridge I can feel to the rear. 

Should I use a little Loctite of some sort?
 
Remembering having to use it on the H1 triple crank bearings long ago [Why do I remember that from 36 yrs ago?  Because I used a little too much, locked down the crank and had to take it apart again]:

Split the cases today to change seals.  Not wanting to waste that good money spent on Chuck doing an update porting job on the RD400.
Someone has been in here...
Anyone know a good source for this screw?

GT380 for those who have time and a little to spend in the budget:

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcy/d/state-road-74-suzuki-gt-380/6855750516.html

North of Statesville, NC