Topics

Hello

I have a broken kickstand mount that has been re-welded several times.  The finally tab broke off completely and I would like to re-weld forward on the bottom frame tube since I have spec 2 chambers.  Have you guys used aftermarket kickstand tabs or used the stock one and just relocated? 

thanks for the help

Well guys just got back from a ride to the mojave desert with friends on the RD.  First major stop was Ludlow where I had to get gas, then to barstow.  We had to get to amboy before dark but that didn't happen.  We got lost as we were searching for the trilobite wilderness area up in the mountains.  I was really scared as it was pitch black with only our headlights guiding us with no cell reception running low on fuel.  It was so cold around 30 degrees we started to get fatigued.  I had just installed the Vape ignition but there was hardly any seat time maybe 3 miles. I was thinking what if the rotor slipped out here and fucked up the motor.  Had to get that out my mind as I had followed directions for installation from this great forum. 

The bike ran flawless with no issues.  I was the only bike without issues as a matter fact.  My bud had problems with his new BMW adventure bike with the electronics freaking him out.  the motoguzzi had headlight issues that I fixed temporarily.  The 82 BMW had issues starting in the cold.  The RD just kept going no matter what weather, road condition or obstacle that got in it's way.  It was exposed to dirt, sand, water and cold/hot weather.  And btw, I had like 40 extra pounds of stuff strapped to the back with clothes, tools, water, food, extra 2 stroke oil...

the best part was when getting back to the lake hughes area I surprised my friend on his ADV bike on the twisties as he couldn't lose me at all.  It done everything his could do on the turns if not better.  It was a great time with great friends.  about 430 miles total!

Hello,

I have successfully installed the vape ignition system on my 73 rd350 as my HPI failed on me.  The rotor magnet cracked and destroyed the pulser coils. 

My question is that I unfortunately used one of those plastic/rubber strap wrenches to hold the rotor in place as I torqued down the bolt to about 17 in/pounds.  I followed the instructions but I  missed the part on not using these types of tools for installation.  The bike runs great again and there's no signs of it running poorly as I took it on a 10 mile shake down no issues.  would these plastic type strap wrenches still damage the rotor in this case?  thanks everybody

Hello,

Just wanted give a heads up that my HPI failed me after about 5 years of service.  I removed the rotor and noticed a hairline crack on the magnet and a possibility that it moved as I see wear marks on the magnet surface.  The bonding may have failed or the crack in the magnet caused it to move as it is not once piece anymore.  Not sure, but whats strange is that as I spin the rotor kicking it over there's no spark or volts coming out of the lighting coils.  I have bare minimum wiring not running a battery just headlight and tail light both LEDS. I can't imagine both stator lighting and pulser coils both going out at the same time.  The rotor would be common to both coils for it to produce voltage to fire the ignition and energize the LED lights. 

Anyway, treatland does not have stock on a new rotor or HPI system.  I went ahead and ordered a vape as I wanted to go back to a 12Vdc electrical system anyway 800; dollars later...merry xmas to me!

Hello,

Friends and I are planning a trip down route 66 to somewhere in the desert.  I would approximate like 300 miles.  I know this is a silly question but what would you guys recommend as general maintenance checks in preparation.  My bike has been rock solid for 3 years since the rebuild.  Current set up:

RD350
ebay cylinders stock bore and porting with Vitos crank and new pro x pistons and rings
30mm flat slide Keihins 140 mains,35 pilots middle clip, one turn out
Spec 2 classic expansion chambers
Shinko tires front and rear alot tread left
Excel aluminum wheels with stainless steel spokes built about 3 years ago
HPI ignition with no battery running LEDS front and rear.
New fork seals with new fork oil running race tech springs
Hagon shocks about 5 years old
Jspooner rear sets

thanks,
Neal

These are fun.  Anybody here goes to this?  Used to have a few more RD guys bring theirs but I think those days are over... oh well.

Hello there.  A friend sold me a reproduction from caliper for rd350 for pretty cheap.  I needed a new one as mine was the original and rebuilt a few times. This one looks to be the same one in this ad on ebay.

When it came time to mount the caliper, there seemed to be interference as I tried to rotate the caliper back down on to the disc.  There must be something slightly different in the channel as the OEM doesn't have this problem.  I compared the two side by side and I can't see any noticeable difference.  I didn't measure with calipers yet but I wondering if anybody has seen this problem before.

thx



 

[6 steel plates]

Hello,

I am sure this has come up before and my apologies.  When upgrading from 6 plate to 7 plate clutch is it 6 or 7 steel plates? 

When looking at the parts manual for rd350 there seems to be 7 steel plates:

Looking up the thickness spec they are at 1.15mm. In chucks thread for 7 plate upgrade he uses 6 steel plates. Part number: 360-16325-00-00

Looking at the RD400 clutch assembly just for comparison they use 6 steel plates 498-16325-00-00 but are thicker at 1.6mm.  So the logic is that if thicker only 6 steels are used?

Is it 6 or 7 steel plates for RD350 when upgrading to 7 plate clutch?

Hello all:

So I purchased some carbs off ebay which were pwk 30mm keihins.  They were I believe originally distributed thru Sudco international here in beautiful so cal. 

When I set the needle clip in the middle position I got really horrible spudder in the mids.  I had to jet the main down to 130 from 140.  I ended up adjusting the clip to 2nd from the top and that seemed to have solved the spudder.  The main jet however I kept at 130 since i couldn't rev out cleanly.  I looked at the needle and it was unmarked but I assumed it was the same as JJH.  Ordered some JJH needles thru treatland since I was unsure.  I took some measurements with a micrometer and compared and realized dimensionally they were slightly different in taper/diameter and length.  I put the JJH needles from treatland in and put the clip in the middle and installed some 140 mains.  This setting seemed to be optimal and on top end it doesn't spudder and run flat like with the 130 mains. 

I guess my point to all of this is to never assume these cheap carbs all have the same parts especially if they are unmarked.  I am not sure if the ones I purchased thru ebay were replicas?  I have no idea these days. 

Hello All.  I purchased the shift shaft upgrade kit and had questions on the PVC tube with set screw.  Looking at the installation pictures it looks like it tube rests right on top of the seal.  The original or oem had a washer and E clip.  The E clip prevented any excessive side to side movement.  My question(s) are:

Do I put the tube right on top of the seal with no gap?  Or do I add a gap between. Would it be better to put the washer back in so that it is between the tube and seal?

Right now I have the tube resting right on top of the seal with the shaft fully extended out. By tightening the set screw, this prevents any side to side.  Is this ok and does anybody have experience with this?

I have a 1973 RD350 but I assume it will be the same installation on the later years.

Hello,

How are the RD350 brake calipers vs the oem ones?  Has anybody purchased them from HVC, ebay, amazon...?

thx

Hello,

Does internal parts from VM28 carbs from an rd350 go into RD400 carb bodies with no issues?

I found some old RD400 carb bodies as I would like to swap over.  My float bowls on the RD350 carbs are leaking however, the RD400 carbs are missing internal parts.

thanks

Hello All,

How are the new VM28 carbs?  I have seen them for sale in various places.   Mine are worn out and has bowl leakage that couldn't be solved with new gaskets. I think they are warped.  The slides seem completely worn out. 

My question:

with new carbs (vm28), Is the procedure for the DF mods the same as in the original carbs?  would I effectively get the same results?  Would it be better to just go with flat slides?  The bike btw runs great.  It's just these minor things I'd like to fix.  any opinions are appreciated.

set-up:

stock RD350 motor with Vitos crank
ProX pistons on std bore
Cheap cylinders from ebay
spec 2 classics
UNI air filters
HPI ignition at 1.8 mm BTDC
Main jet - 190
Needle #2 position from top
Pilot - #30
2.5 slide
1 turn out on air screws

I was taking the RD up Hacienda road in the heights area and this kid in a WRX turbo braked suddenly in front of me and had no brake lights.  I swerved out of the way but then he decided to get in my lane.  So I swerved again and managed to dodge his car.  This all happened within a few seconds.  I think he didn't see me and didn't even look to see if that lane was clear.  It almost seems he wanted to ram into me.

I usually take my bike out in the early morning to avoid drivers and traffic but around 11am there's tons of cars on the road where I live. 

I rode home put the bike in the garage and layed on the couch and contemplated of what might have been or could have happened. Sorry to rant about this guys but be careful out there.

Hello All,

I have an early rd350 motor and I am going to upgrade to 7 plate clutch.  The thrust washer shows 2 different part numbers on the breakout manual.  Is ok to go with either or?  It looks like the 278 part number is the washer with the bevel.  I was able to source a clutch hub and basket and all the steel plates.  I have new friction plates and springs.  Has anybody used the 278 part in a 7 plate clutch upgrade?

thanks

those of you who have the HPI ignition system.  Is it advisable to add cooling holes to the rotor cover?I have a spare side over I can drill holes into.  What do you guys think?

thx

A few weeks ago, I went riding with a bud up on the canyon.  I figured this would be a good chance to compare bikes from a performance stand point.  The only difference are the pipes and ignition. We both have stock porting. 

Both are RD350s. Mine has spec ii classics with HPI and his has points and DG pipes.  Both motors have stock porting but my cylinders are cheap ebay ones I bought which I believe are made in Taiwan.  I just chamfered the ports and fitted new pistons and rings.  We both have foam UNIs filters jetted correctly.

It would appear that my bike could accelerate alot faster from out of a turn and on a straight.  the advance curve from the CDI and the lighter rotor with the combination of the better pipes was a huge boost in performance. 

If any of you are thinking of upgrading to boost performance then you can't go wrong with better ignition and spec ii pipes; or similar.  It's money well spent.

Hello All:

Does anybody know what prevents the gear shift select to rotate past 1st gear when it is selected(shift down)? 

I noticed this when I had the rear set shifter set up wrong and I selected 1st gear and although it went into 1st, I didn't feel it has any mechanical stop. 

Everything seems fine though.  It runs and shifts great and doesn't pop out of gear.  Could it be the neutral finder bolt or spring that rides on the shift drum stopper plate?

thx

Hello,

Just a quick question/check.  I have floated the ground on the HPI but when I measure continuity to ground it shows low ohms.  Is it measuring the ohms of the coil to ground?

thx

Today I went on a pretty hard canyon ride with the HPI ignition and it ran great.  This is with no battery and full AC led lighting. 

There is a definite improvement in midrange and the deadspot at higher elevations is gone now.   I used to have to downshift to get around that but now it pulls cleanly.  It might have something to do with the advance curve?

the best part is no more points to adjust.  I just went my last set from Japan last month. 

HPI mini rotor is totally worth the money.