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I just took advantage of this. $123 + $117 - $60 = $180 + tax    free shipping   

Yamaha manual says 8.3-13 m-kg front, 12-18m-kg rear. Axle holder clamp nuts 1.1-1.8m-kg

I've done Caswell's twice and it is holding up good. One is 15 years old.

So, I put these rear sets on, that have a master cylinder mounted right on them, a couple years ago. Everything was going ok until a couple days ago and 3 miles from home the rear brake starts dragging. I have noticed the rear petal was always pretty firm. I kept going and it keep getting worse. Got home, just kept giving it more throttle. The rear pads were smoking. What the?? Checked if the push rod had free play, yes, but the master was bound up tight. Pulled everything apart and rebuilt the caliper. Torn down the master and it looked clean and ok. Checked if the "little hole" was clear. What the?? Let me get a good look at this. There was no little hole. I see the set screws and plugs outside the bore that are there when they make the thing to drill the 2 holes into the bore, but the little one was not finished with the small hole to the bore just ahead of the piston cup. Used a .75mm drill and Dremel. All good now with normal petal travel and release. How it didn't cause trouble earlier is beyond me. Major quality control problem. China, China, China.   

I've done a few industrial engine valve seals with that technique. Learned to watch out because if the piston is at the top, the motor (and fan) will jump and turn when the air is turned.    

I checked a couple of OEM RD400 dipsticks, 4.375" also.

Some things I noticed about the Dynojet kit are the needles they give you are close to the dimensions of the stock ones but have the grooves for the clip to adjust them, the stock ones don't. I have mine set on full lean and it still has a rich spot show up at about 5000 rpm. Maybe that is like a stammer caused by the pipes and not the jetting?? Then I looked into getting new needle jet tubes and the stock one seems to be a one of a kind 357 0-8. It looks like a 28mm carb RD jet but is an odd length. I have the 420 mains in mine with Factory Pipes and a K&N Y-boot type of air filter (boy that filter is noisy, honks as loud as the exhaust pipes). It seems good at WOT but maybe I'll try the 340 main to see what happens. It is a real chore to remove and tear down the carbs on these bikes.

Here's the instructions from a Dynojet kit that I bought for my RZ several years ago. 420 main is for aftermarket chambers and air filter.

Yes, it threads on with left hand threads but how you hold the shaft from spinning to get it off seems very tricky. Maybe reach in there with small needle nose plyers and hold the shaft.

Minimum pump stroke should be .20mm-.25mm. There are shims under the nut and flat washer on that pulley shaft.

I don't think so, the spacing between the mount holes is different. I can verify later today.

Don't you think the one that is getting hot is running properly and the cold one isn't? Exhaust gasses are over 1000 degrees and heat things up quickly.

I have a RD400 petcock on mine too, no mods to it.

I was able to get real MEK at West Marine to use to strip gas tank liner out.

We had the good stuff at the machine shop I worked at in the 70's. I would take a carboned-up head and put it in overnight, the next morning, clean as a whistle, no carbon, no paint, just rinse it off with water. No wire brush needed. We also had a caustic hot tank. Boss told me, "Don't ever put anything aluminum in there". Same thing with a cast iron head, pull it out, rinse it off, and all clean.