Messages

Stock ports. Will need a fresh bore $75.00

Message me the stroke and your email and I will send you a picture of a printout of the degrees starting at 1* BTDC and up to 25 or 30* BTDC. It is possible to make an educated guess from that point, I may even have an engine file close to give you a starting point. Also if you know the compression ratio, that helps too.  No I can't post a %#!$ picture here, lol, being old sucks.

This guy figured out how to keep up.
https://www.facebook.com/teamskippyracing/photos/pcb.709876589658938/709875952992335

Biggraham stated Pipes & Carbs as being" breathed on", that is why I went with the Kawi. Now, as to motodreams description of the overall bike I mirror his comments. I've ridden S1, S2, S3, H1 & H2 and think the H1 & H2 are a handful. If i remember correctly some of the 500cc drag bikes used 400 frames, maybe Shultz ??

Russ, I just saw your post. I can bore cylinders if I'm doing porting to the cylinders. I can supply the pistons or you can, doesn't matter to me, if you do let me look at the cylinders before you buy them so we agree on what oversize. Any questions call me 931-374-8164 c.t.s.

H1 is factory rated at 1/3 more hp. Stock against stock I think a best out of 3 would put the Kawi ahead.

Dale Walksler lost his 4 year battle with cancer yesterday.  The museum in Maggie Valley, founded by him is a treasure trove of history. Something to add to your bucket list if you have not seen it yet. I've been there twice and will visit again.

Mark, no I was unaware of them. Good option, thanks.

In about a month or less a rubber coated YZ85 V4 reed will be out that will give longer petal life, good for the street guys. One large petal instead of 2. Other improvements too. Good for up to 34mm carbs. --- You listening Inov8 ????

I keep oem RZ/Banshee cages here to do the fitting, BUT send the RZ/Banshee oem cages so they can be modified.
I also keep V-Force "3" here for the same purpose. I haven't seen a V-Force "4" since they came out and did not like the style so I only set the cylinders for the 3 series.

Wade, send the oem reed cages also. It is part of the package.
I usually can smooth some of the edges and like to  increase the window length even though only helps a little bit. The oem's calculated flow at full lift only flows enough air to support a 24mm carb, the calculations of the mod indicate the changes are equal to a 28mm (stock size), in reality it does not gain quite that much but does help. For Stage 1 street I don't remove any of the center bar but removing several mm's from the tip of it and running a single petal does help, with part of the center bar intact there is support to help eliminate cupping or sinking of the center of the petal over time.

No Wade, that is a full blown complete Stage 1 Top End & both reed cavities as an option. As I told Mark, I'm just giving back a bit. 

 This is for RD's, R-5 & DS-7.

2023 prices now available. Call or email for updated prices. Ph 931-374-8164  Email  vintageporting@gmail.com

The top picture of the head in Rodneyas' post is how I do our personal engines but I machine a stepped sleeve insert and put the smallest diameter in the head. After doweling we bolt cyl & head together and scribe head so combustion chamber is concentric when machined. Have to use pinned as shown in other pictures when RD's are converted to bolt down style.

Another way to insure the head and bore are concentric is to bolt the cyl & head together, drill for pinning holes, scribe bore to head, separate head and cylinder, use mandrel in 4 jaw chuck and center scribed line by adjusting chuck to establish squish is aligned to bore. Sparkplug holes are usually off center a few thousandths from bolt holes.