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i forgot that point and you are correct!. later ones had a 7 disc, whereas early ones had a 6 disc. even a  6 dic setup is ok using fz1000 plates though.

well, that will def fix it.

J-B Weld Cold Weld formula?  Package says rated 5021 PSI, Fuel & Chemical resistant. I've had success with JB securing rear wheel bearings that fit too loose in the hub.

we did that to a very old CR500 once, it lasted like 3 years. still.. it did work.

they are technically all the same except in 75 they went to a baffled air filter, different jetting, and high top carbs. TBH, the 73/74 IMHO because of that open filter was better, technically. &4 saw the introduction fo the high top carbs but they didn't perform any different. and, IMHO, the 73 was prettier because of metal tank badges and side cover badges. But, all in all all 3 years are basically the same. 

sort of. i never liked the del-mar either but at least it was tastefully done... but this takes it to a new level.

loong story short, bike shop owner fancied himself as a 'richard rawlings' type, about half way into this, he lost the wrench he was underpaying, and finished it himself and the owner of the bike has deep pockets, so he dug way in deep. I know, for a fact, the front end alone was over 2k.   

it was a 100% complete bike in decent shape. original paint, etc.

few years ago i had a bunch of daytona stuff for sale, which i got from the owner of THAT bike, so i know 1st hand, it was def not a bike that should have been cut up IMHO. I have my specials that basically started as bins of parts, I get it.   

thanks! you can ride it again in a week.

and have it reduce performance on the brakes? no. fuck no. dude saw a paycheck and the owner of the bike drank all his kool-aid.

there wer e lot of nice bikes at that show, for sure. I'll post them up later.

yes, the expanded metal will stretch, hence why i did what i did to mine. I considered marine plywood (theres another one int eh building i did that to) and its held up well for 5 years.

you should stain it some really nice rich mahogany color, maybe do some inlay work.   

Now, im not a fan of daytonas, at all, but ffs look at what they did to this one.

Yes, it started as a 79. yes, it was complete, and fairly decent.

Yes, i know the owner AND it was built by a 'pro shop' local. motor internals are stock. Yes, when i found out the front end was getting swappe dout to a drum I tried talking them out of it. I also know there's over 12k spent on this.



-discuss-

ffs.

i mean, maybe. i'll be honest, its all a bad idea but i also get the gist of why you are doing it. silver solder would be worth trying.

the only reason i don't say tack weld it, is it will pull the bearing one way or the other when it cools.

I cant believe i'm suggesting this, but you -could- set the bearing on the shaft and heat up the bearing and crank end and braze it, let it leech in. it sounds like the crank end is toast already, so really nothing to lose. i guess.  Now i feel dirty.   

i can say that it will hold up to oil. ive used it on the lathe gearbox at work. but... on a crank bearing..