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ive run jjj's as well.

that seat needs liposuction...

I mean.. yeah.   

of course trying to track down an oil leak, the n switch sheared right off checking it gently, i might add...(doh!) which turned out to be the new out shaft seal being a piece of shit. 

seal replaced but waiting on on n switch on way

proper.
 

my money is on the MB in an endurance race.    

YES, after the bushing was pressed in it was drilled and deburred. 

IF you have a spare carb bowl to sacrifice, or a bowl drain, IMHO the -best- way to verify fuel level is with a height gauge.

you get the cover bushed you dont need that. that's a bandaid for the problem we solved on matts bike.

fwiw, thats a 12mm id shock bushing that came with some shocks.

can be. it reacts differently with fluid above it. 15mm with it just touching the tip of the needle. in the 1st pic in reply above, if thats 'closed' the tangs are hanging too low. in all my experience with mikunis, the tangs typically are horizontal when the needle is just closed, not compressing the needles spring loaded tip. 

especially with my right knee going from 52 to 85 yrs old in 48 hrs. 

nice. yeah, head east! 

Wasn't aware the starter clutch was dying when i got this going... but it had gotten bad enough i needed to address it. That inboard design sucks, bad. had to drop oil pan, pull clutch cover & clutch, LH chain cover, drive out intermediate shaft, and pull oil pump.

LUCKILY i didn't have to drop the exhaust. mind you, i didn't rebuild his motor so had no idea what i was going to find in there. this was the oil pan, not a whole lot of debris thankfully.



this is where the starter clutch is.



you have to hold all that up and in line to get the shaft back in. you also have to slip the clutch housing w rollers onto the hub with it up there, has to go in and come out disassembled, after you pull the oil pump out.

the culprit: the old springs were about 10mm under correct length due to wear/age. thats it. 



he parts were dirt cheap, same kit used on multiple makes and brands.  Now, its all good and starts like new. reading about this repair, apparently its common for people to lay the bike over on its side and do this. I didn't see the need. the total repair took about 3 hours start to finish, and about 40 mins of that was cleaning up stuff like the oil pan, inside clutch housing, and unloading about 3 cans of brake cleaner int he open motor to remove build up. also a good time to clean off the sightglass from the inside. (dull pic and a handy wipe).

as mush as it sucks.. time for an upgrade!     

correct. there should be a spring and a metal cap inside of it, so if you take it out, watch out for that.