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Having barely survived a crash August sixth,  I've lately been wondering how others deal with the recovery process. I've got two permanent eight  or ten inch screws  and one six  incher that held my pelvis together while it grew back into one piece. My twelve formerly broken ribs, six fractured vertebrae,  perforated bowel and lacerated liver, one punctured and two collapsed lungs and forever missing spleen don't bother me as much as the ichy road scars on my left side and my recently noticed very tender zyphoid process. Helmet saved my brain and maybe my life. Spleen is gone. Something ripped my groin open about four inches from the family jewels, so that was a close one! Back to my normal weight and nearly fully mobile  again after all the laying around for eight weeks.  Rode the four wheeler last week, kick start only.
Since I have a few people around who love me, I'm kicking the two wheeled motorized riding habit for now.  I've been a gambler my whole life, and I know when to fold. 
If perhaps I do decide to get back on, my main concern is what happens if I land on my ass again? Do all those screws just tear out and leave a bigger mess than a regular person would be left with? I'm sure they'd let me know of they're presence somehow.
How have you dealt with serious injuries, loved ones, the desire to ride and mortality after an unplanned dismount when your need for speed returns?

That's like the guy who told me the other day,  while talking about the r5 I'm trying to sell, says just say it's an rd and people will call.

 

Score!

Go get `er!

Welcome aboard. You've come to the right place. Patient  knowledgeable members who are glad to help will usually respond  within minutes.  For answers to the easiest most obvious questions, search my posts.

The one time I did any kind of porting, it was a matter of measuring the dimensions of the ports and distance from top of cylinder.  Both sides should be the same with identical angles on the edges for each set of holes.  Post the numbers and someone else here will know what they mean regarding what pipes they'd be good for and where to start with jetting.

How does one know when to change from B8HS to B9HS on an R5?  Was running great with stock heads and Spec II Classics on 32.5 pilot, third clip on stock needle and 170 main. Got the heads worked, upped jets to 175 and went up to b9 plug and it's not as fast, with less noticeable power band at 7k. Plugs are dark.  Doesn't a flatter squish band need more gas?

That's the one I had.   My kids probably lost it in the woods playing space man.

Seems like the old trusty Craftsman timing light has gone on an adventure without me.   What are the brands you've bought lately that work for longer than the warranty?

A couple of weeks ago I taught  my twelve year old daughter to do it for me, cuz, well, it got old.

Nice place he's got there.  It'd be a shame if something were to happen to it.

Here's an update on the latest decaf adventures.
Left carb had cracks in the choke plunger cap and the external spring didn't hold the choke all the way off, so the air from the cracks let the left side run but the straight extra fuel on the right side was a no go.  That and the extra wire length of the thinner than stock wire in the harness, with old main key switch and connecters resulting in to much voltage drop were just the icing? on the cake.  Once the coils got a direct wire from the battery with thicker wires and new connectors throughout the ignition system the motor started with barely a full kick and was much more crisp. 
It ran great on the 170 mains that were installed when I bought the bike, but instead of riding it to do a plug chop I decided to go ahead and go bigger and work my way down, just to be safe.  Local shop had some 205 195 and 190 so I started with those. Way too big. Ordered some genuine jets from JetsRus; 175,180, 185. Plugs fouled after the first two runs down to 175 before I could get a reliable butt dyno reading, and the right plug threads got funky.  So pulled the heads and sent them to get squish band angles changed.  I had another head laying around with good threads so skipped the repair on the stripped one for now.  I'm glad I got the bad one off before the metal from the threads went into the engine. Big nasty slivers. Cylinders are basic balance port job done with John Ritter at his shop, stock heads, and Spec II Classics. 

$5500 was the price i remember

Pulled the other head to compare; both stock I think because of the rough texture and steep squish angle.  Also look the same as two other heads I have. 
Two heads in a box on their way to Ed Toomey Designs today! Might as well get fancy while they're off.