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Is that you in the blankie?

It is indeed, Wade. 

Like I said ... my entire life. 

I got a few boxes of my dad's slides digitized, and found some gems.

Those crossed-over Bulgarian OHAZ high pipes on the TDR look wild!

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=663423752501823.

 What's that long stinger pipe going to do to performance? It looks like it's slipped over the actual stinger without a swage, so it is a larger ID pipe.

IR8D8R

The Ohaz (and JL as well) look to be very similar to the standard pipes.  I believe as long as it's of adequate diameter, the length of the stinger or silencer dowsnt matter much.

HNY 2T brothers.

DT360 is no slouch either.

Lots of options.

My vote would go to the Yamaha DT250.

A good friend of mine @brokenbonepatch on here, has had an early DT1 for almost two decades.

He's ridden PNW woods singletrack, vintage MX raced it, thousands of street miles, roadraced it, and and shipped it over to Italy to do the Motogiro d'Italia multiple times.

Truly a do-all bike that can't be killed.

Thanks, Fellas.

I had a great childhood with him growing up.  He taught me a lot, especially that with the correct tools I could do anything. 

Really looking forward to getting this car back on the road as a tribute to him.

Just saw there is a 3XV RS chassis for sale in the FB RZ group for a relatively affordable price.

Good to know. Distance can really complicate things.

Lots of guys on the TDR page, and LC forums seem very pleased with Ohaz Performance pipes from Bulgaria.

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100065083350684&mibextid=LQQJ4d

Price, quality and performance are said to be excellent.

Sorry for your loss, Jim. My condolences to you and your family, brother

Thanks, Wade. 

Sadly, my Dad passed away the Friday before Christmas.  He had been in decline since a stroke a couple years ago, and long-term congestive heart failure.

Thankfully, he passed in his sleep with his arm around his wife, in bed in the house he built on the piece of land he loved. 

He made his career at GTE/General Dynamics as a prototype development engineer, and had the skills and aptitude to design, fabricate and repair anything that was asked of him.

He left me a lot to clean up, including his shop FULL of vintage and modern hifi stuff, ham radio gear, oscilloscopes and electronic test equipment, antique gas engines and farm equipment, a few lathes, a Bridgeport mill, and about 10 each of anything else you could imagine.  He was a hoarder to be sure, but mostly of the useful good stuff a relentless DIY'er needs to get the job done..

The cream of the crop is the 1956 Porsche 356A he bought in the early '60's to drive back and forth between San Luis Obispo and Sacramento while in college.  He permanently parked it in his garage around 1970, just after I was born, where it has stayed ever since.  Just 77,000 miles on the clock and not a speck of rust.  Mostly stock condition, with a paint respray early in life, and a period "extractor" exhaust.

I've been waiting for this car my entire life, now I just need a safe place to park it.  More pics coming in a few months when I drag it out of the garage and give it it's first bath in 50yrs.

^ive used those as well.

You can remove the lower locknut and/or cut more threads if more adjustment is needed.

I used these off Amazon. They worked perfect to fit a genuine standard LC cable to my genuine PWKs.

Sudco Adjuster Asmbly 40 Degree... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T6J9VHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mutts suggested to me stopping down the airscrew to .5-1 turn out max.

Said 1.5 (which is generally a good starting point) is usually too much air and they like it richer just off idle regardless of pilot size.

Worth a try before detailing the mains as (so I've been told) the overlap/influence of one circuit to the next is greater on PWKs than some other carbs (Mikuni)🤷�♂️

As always, take my comments with a grain of salt as I'm usually just repeating what the real smart guys have said.