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Shinko 712s on my RD400c. Gets ridden maybe a max of 500 miles/yearm so will be out-of-date before worn out. Feels fine, I ride easy.

Good fiberglass usually cures faster than I'd like, anyway. I'm not very quick.

The "daily roundups" are not my favorite. Much prefer actual action footage than listen to these two.

If any of you get the chance, stop off at the Sevier Country Fairgrounds just North of Seveirville for the Possum Gathering Friday and Saturday.

Looks like the rain will be more spotty than originally forecast, and turn better as the week progresses. Be safe and enjoy the roads. Don't forget the Possum Gathering at the Sevier County Fairgrounds on the 12th  & 13th.

Just a bump because it is only a week away.  No champagne or white linen table cloths. There IS a distillery across the river, and we are supposed to have food trucks. Swap meet booths, guys buying and selling bikes. Camping next to the river (I think the spaces are full, but call Patrick at the number on the flier if interested in camping or vendor spaces.) Not as fancy as the Quail Gathering, but it IS in Sevierville, TN so...
Near lots of other attractions around there, too.

Paint Shop Pro line are all lacquers. They won't be fuel-proof no matter how long they cure. They must be 2K cleared, then they are fine.

I've used Duplicolor Paintshop for over ten years on five bikes with good success. Any flaws have been my own low inattention. After cleaning, prep, etc. I prime with Duplicolor (or Rustoleum) etching primer in rattle cans from Amazon or OReilley (olive drab in color) and let settle for several days. Then the color (BTW, you can blend their colors - I blended gold and black to give a interesting difference) using a cheap Harbor Freight gun and DRY AIR. This paint flashes off fast, but give it double the listed time if doing many coats to allow solvents to escape. The color can be wet sanded after a week or so, but NOT METALLICS. After a good two week cure in a warm area (mine go up to my second floor den to cure) I clear coat with Spraymax 2K Glamour Clear, a 2K with in-can activator punctured durring the shaking process. I get it through Amazon, but there are other sources. One can (~$25) is enough for a Yamaha RD400. The 2K wet sands out beautifully after 48 hours, and oftem makes up for errors in the color. Some frames I just prep, prime, and rattle-can with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (which is acually 1K, but very tough). Make sure 2K completely seals all edges, and it will protect well against gasoline spills (but not brake fluid - it eats most everything).

i wish i had an aircraft hanger to store my stuff.
i once owned a cr500 and it was fast so 30% more is unreal.

I've purchased two projects out of hangers. Both seriously neglected (the bikes, not the hangers). Stuff multiplies to occupy the space available.

I just prime with an etching primer, let that cure for at least a day, then spray with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (not a true 2 part epoxy). A couple weeks cure and it is fairly gas proof. All rattle-can. Touch up chips with model car paint.

Hope the red coat doesn't cause problems. I've heard that acetone will disolve it, just as it disolves Kreem.

I have found great drying of tanks after washing by connecting a vacuum cleaner to suck on the tank (in low humidity room). This lowers the pressure in the tank and lowers the vapor point of any moisture left, evaporating it off quickly. You can even tell where moisture was by feeling the tank be cool in that area, then warm up as the water leaves.

Had to line my RD400c tank after painting. Fun, isn't it?

Just be careful with solvents. ABS is dissolved in acetone to make ABS cement. I use soap and water, rinse well, dry, then 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean. Lacquers (like many rattle-can primers) attach well because they have solvents like acetone in them. Need 2k clear to hold up, though.

99% of motorcycle fairings are ABS these days, I believe. I usually start with rattle-can etching primer, then lacquer or water-born color, then 2k clear.

Or, if this is a track bike, produce clearance dents in the tank.

How much do they effect charging? They carry field excitation current to the field windings. Current through tge field windings creates the magnetic field that moves the electrons in the stator that creates charging current. No field, no charge. That's how the regulator controls charging.

Yes, new brushes square to the slip rings with proper brush pressure and smooth, clean slip rings are very important to charging. I usually polish to at least 2000 grit, sometimes finer. Carbon (the brushes) is much dofter that the copper slip rings, and rough slip rings will wear out brushes rapidly.